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One Legged Ninja posted:Just as a basic troubleshooting step, are you actually changing the target temperature of the 888D, and not the calibration? I'm having flashbacks
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Apr 23, 2023 13:52
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it's such a stupid loving interface
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Apr 23, 2023 19:39
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Sagebrush posted:it's such a stupid loving interface Literally the worst feature of the D model. The old Hakko 888 with the knob is a superior product.
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Apr 23, 2023 20:34
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I specifically went with a pinecil instead of the hakko because I heard too many horror stories of people thinking they are changing the temperature but instead just changing the calibration. Why the hell is that the default thing that happens when you push the button? That has to be a firmware glitch they just decided not to fix.
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Apr 23, 2023 21:01
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Cojawfee posted:I specifically went with a pinecil instead of the hakko because I heard too many horror stories of people thinking they are changing the temperature but instead just changing the calibration. Why the hell is that the default thing that happens when you push the button? That has to be a firmware glitch they just decided not to fix. One button sets and the other calibrates, it's real dumb but if you know that you'll be fine. Bad UX is bad.
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Apr 24, 2023 01:28
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Bondematt posted:One button sets and the other calibrates, it's real dumb but if you know that you'll be fine. set temperature: push and hold the button that says "enter" until it blinks, then press "up" to cycle the digits. recalibrate temperature: push and hold the button that says "up" until it blinks, then press "up" to cycle the digits. the only warning that you are in calibration mode is an extra dot on the screen. everything else looks exactly the same. and the majority of the time that you're adjusting the temperature, it is to temporarily raise it, so you will obviously reach for the "up" button first. super stupid interface. if i were in charge, i would have made it so that holding either button down for a second enters temperature setting mode, and holding both simultaneously for a much longer time recalibrates. or if they were willing to add one extra tac switch to the BOM, i'd have a shrouded recalibrate button on the back that you have to push with the tip of a pen. dumb dumb dumb. hakkos are great irons but yeah the digital interface is a step backwards. i love my old 936 with one big knob
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Apr 24, 2023 01:35
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LOL!!! I put a thermocouple on the tip, let it heat to "836F" and guess what?  I, uh, had no idea about the calibrate function. I still want to blame the tool, but it turns out IM THE TOOL. How long have I been struggling with this, holy poo poo
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Apr 24, 2023 02:11
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no, you can absolutely blame the tool there, it's a brain-dead interface. i have all the soldering irons at school set to 700F, i put stickers on all of them saying DO NOT ADJUST TEMPERATURE, and before every semester starts i factory-reset all of them because it's impossible to know (without literally measuring them as you did) whether they've been hosed with. great physical hardware, stupid stupid stupid software.
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Apr 24, 2023 02:13
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Chiming in that my workplace has like 15 of those, because they're rock solid And we go through and calibrate regularly as the co-op students inevitably gently caress it up So loving dumb
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Apr 24, 2023 02:33
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Sagebrush posted:if i were in charge, i would have made it so that holding either button down for a second enters temperature setting mode, and holding both simultaneously for a much longer time recalibrates. or if they were willing to add one extra tac switch to the BOM, i'd have a shrouded recalibrate button on the back that you have to push with the tip of a pen. I mean poo poo, they made getting into the settings harder than calibrating, and 100% could have used the same "Hold button while turning it on" here.
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Apr 24, 2023 03:06
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yeah like why is calibration even a top-level function at all? how often do you need to recalibrate your iron's temperature sensor? is that something that happens a lot in factories or something? i sure have never needed or wanted to do it in any of my soldering experience.
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Apr 24, 2023 03:16
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Hey I had to re-calibrate once, and in a hurry! after accidentally changing the calibration instead of the set temp so it was waaaaaaaay hotter than it should have been
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Apr 24, 2023 03:24
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Ok so after reset I got a lot better results and everything makes some sense now, huge relief. The RJ45 took the solder without breaking a sweat. The ground plane on the other hand, took a huge amount of heat and time, kept freezing the solder but eventually got there. I enjoy thinking about the preheater and might end up getting one. The other thing I also enjoy is holding a good grudge. Thank you Hakko, for the opportunity.
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Apr 24, 2023 04:00
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I do love how many people came out of the woodwork to rag on this incomprehensible issue, of this otherwise excellent device that everyone has
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Apr 24, 2023 04:09
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A preheater is one of those tools that you can work around not having, but is very nice to have. I would say they're absolutely worth it for a professional setting as they reduce the risk of damaging boards and components, but if you're building your own lab on the cheap you can do without.
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Apr 24, 2023 04:10
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horse_ebookmarklet posted:Ok so after reset I got a lot better results and everything makes some sense now, huge relief. I have a jet lighter in my tool box. I use it for two thing: heatshrink and heating up things that soak up a ton of heat. Iron in one hand, lighter in the other, let 'er rip. Don't let the flame hit your soldering iron and beware of the hot blast of gases.
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Apr 24, 2023 09:57
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lol I thought my metcal had poor firmware because it never remembers your settings and boots in a random mode. But if it actually had the ability to set temperature it would probably gently caress that up too.
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Apr 24, 2023 12:37
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Sagebrush posted:no, you can absolutely blame the tool there, it's a brain-dead interface. You get to blame the tool until you've learned about the stupid problem. From then on, all you get to do is complain about it when you get bit by it. Enjoy this magical time while you can, OP.
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Apr 24, 2023 14:40
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No you can still blame the tool after that when it's this poorly-designed. The UP button, which you would assume you press to UP the temperature, changes the calibration. That's like making a knife where the handle is another knife.
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Apr 24, 2023 14:41
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Has anyone seen a DC adjustable step-down converter module that can do 15v (or 20v)->13.2v @3A, with current limiting, on Aliexpress or ebay or something? I want to make a USB-PD charger for my Mavic Air batteries. The batteries have their own BMS so you just need to give them sufficient voltage/current, but it's at least 12.6V and normally 13.2V at up to 3A. So too high for USB-PD 12V and too low for 15V  So I'm thinking using a 15V decoy and then stepping down to 13.2V.Since this is a one-off I don't really want to bother doing the whole thing from scratch. The best I could find was this one but it's not clear on the current limit, the datasheet for the chip says 4.7A which could get the powerbank/power supply freak out and hut down (though the battery shouldn't pull that much) https://www.aliexpress.com/item/32649396601.html E2: poo poo I think USB PPS might be the way to go that would let me skip this, but I don't think my powerbank supports it  All the work's been done already but it's $30 and not available right now: https://www.crowdsupply.com/ryan-ma/pd-micro#products E: trip report from my previous aliexpress expedition, in case someone might find it useful: mobby_6kl posted:I wanted to shoehorn a fan into a passively cooled laptop, it has a 4-pin fan header but outputs no PWM no matter what I set in BIOS. So I found this pre-made fan controller to not DIY (which is obviously an option but  https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000333862122.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.5.25a718024xOkuv I got the 5V version and hooked it up to the USB port on the headset. I didn't measure the output but it took about 1W from the bench power supply and charged the headset in a few hours. The size is just right to fit in the headset, but with such a small coil the alignment has to be very precise or the current goes down the drain. Probably doable with magnet on both sides though. Unfortunately the bigger problem is getting the extra wires from the headband to the battery which I still haven't figured out. mobby_6kl fucked around with this message at 16:25 on Apr 24, 2023 |
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Apr 24, 2023 14:55
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Dear thread, sorry to pester you again, maybe one of you can easily solve this. I have been continuing on in the project I last checked in here about, but a little different. The project as conceived is still going on but I did this while I was waiting for parts to arrive in the mail. This used a drill I bought from the thrift store for $5 and scrap wood, in addition to the ornate box on the bottom, which was once a sewing machine cover. The motor is standing up right with a bit attached rotating the wheels, which you can kinda see in the mp4, that orange thing is rotating the wheels in opposite directions. https://i.imgur.com/F5sGqFG.mp4 But it's loud. I took a rechargable drill motor and built up this heavy box to reduce the noise for it and lined it with carpeting, and it is still too loud. I think maybe I should be looking for a quiet motor, but I've never even thought about that. Where do I find a quiet motor? And one that fit this enclosure might be nice but that isn't necessary, I'll do it all over if I have to. If anybody knows anything I can do to reduce the noisiness other than a quieter motor I'm also interested in hearing that. I have been staring at and listening to this thing for a while now and the wood somewhat transmits the sound of the motor, doesn't it. I've put dampening materials at a number of joints and put plenty of carpeting inside, but the larger box at the bottom is made of cherry or mahogany and the rest is plywood, and I think it is transmitting the sound of the motor.  Advice or suggestions solicited, please. ED: the carpeting inside the larger bottom box is just cut to size and placed in there, I never tacked it in place because it was a really good fit as it was. I don't know if the presence of staples or tacks would have helped the dampening. This thing is noisy! petit choux fucked around with this message at 19:03 on Apr 24, 2023 |
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Apr 24, 2023 18:15
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mobby_6kl posted:E: trip report from my previous aliexpress expedition, in case someone might find it useful: I've been using those cheap magnetic cables and ends that you leave in the device for a few things around the house, headsets especially. The circular ones don't carry anything but power and ground so they're slower charging but there are some four pin ones that are a little better, you just have to care about the direction they're plugged in. It's not eliminating the wire but it saves wear on the port and having to plug stuff in. It might be more useful than the coil, or you could look at getting a Qi compatible coil for the headset side and use a charging pad with multiple coils, like a phone pad, mouse pad (the logitech one is kind of pricey but might work), or one of the multi-device pads. I was watching jerryrigeverything's review of this silly tesla charger and while it's an eye watering $300, I was impressed by how many coils it has. He opens it up around 2:54 so I timestamped it here: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8CPGUe_IaZs&t=174s
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Apr 24, 2023 18:31
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Does anyone have any recommended resources for (re)learning electronics - books, online courses etc? The embarrassing thing is I actually have an electronic engineering degree, but it was almost twenty years ago, I only just scraped through and I never ended up using it after graduation. Now I can barely remember how a transistor works.
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Apr 24, 2023 18:58
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Lamont posted:Does anyone have any recommended resources for (re)learning electronics - books, online courses etc? The Art of Electronics, 3rd edition I think there's a free PDF of it now even. e: Never mind, the PDF got copyright struck from archive dot org, the bastards. Still the de facto standard book for learning electronics though.
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Apr 24, 2023 19:04
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Lamont posted:Does anyone have any recommended resources for (re)learning electronics - books, online courses etc? Forrest Mims, you ever heard of it? No just kiddding, somebody put out a REALLY good donationware book recently IIRC, I'm hoping somebody here can remember it for me too.
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Apr 24, 2023 19:04
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Shame Boy posted:The Art of Electronics, 3rd edition I remember looking at the second edition many years ago and finding it nowhere near as intuitive as its reputation suggests, but my brain has changed a lot in the last two decades so I ought to take a look at the latest version.
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Apr 24, 2023 19:13
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Lamont posted:I remember looking at the second edition many years ago and finding it nowhere near as intuitive as its reputation suggests, but my brain has changed a lot in the last two decades so I ought to take a look at the latest version. I mean it's a general textbook that tries to cover everything  We can probably make more specific recommendations if you have a particular thing you want to make or goal you wanna reach. Is there a particular project you wanna build or something?
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Apr 24, 2023 19:22
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There's this guy named Forrest Mims, check him out
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Apr 24, 2023 19:26
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petit choux posted:Dear thread, sorry to pester you again, maybe one of you can easily solve this. I have been continuing on in the project I last checked in here about, but a little different. The project as conceived is still going on but I did this while I was waiting for parts to arrive in the mail. This used a drill I bought from the thrift store for $5 and scrap wood, in addition to the ornate box on the bottom, which was once a sewing machine cover. The motor is standing up right with a bit attached rotating the wheels, which you can kinda see in the mp4, that orange thing is rotating the wheels in opposite directions. bizarre machine. what does it do? just a kinetic art piece? brushless motors will be quieter than brushed ones like that drill motor, and a lot of the noise is also coming from the drill's gearbox. i suggest finding a brushless motor of some sort and hooking it up with a belt drive. some very quiet brushless motors that are (or used to be) easily accessible are the ones from floppy drives. i'm not sure that they have enough torque for what you're doing, but maybe with sufficient belt reduction they could be. they spin at 300 rpm, while your wheels look like they're going about 3 rpm, so 100:1 torque multiplication could be enough. how comfortable are you with electronic stuff vs electrical stuff? there are a lot of hobby brushless motors used for rc cars and drones that are good and powerful but also quiet when run at low RPM, but you'll also need a speed controller, a microcontroller, a power supply, etc. Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 19:32 on Apr 24, 2023 |
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Apr 24, 2023 19:29
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Sagebrush posted:bizarre machine. what does it do? just a kinetic art piece? Hey wow thanks for getting back with me. This is a device for generating musical arpeggios or notes by way of a device that has a pair of optical sensors facing the bike spokes, and them being at different distances from the sensors are read as different musical notes. the device is from Zeppelin Design Labs, BTW, and it's apparently some kind of Arduino project? The code is freely available but I don't know the exact terms. But it is to the left, it reads things in its sensor path as musical notes and triangulates their distance, I guess. I've placed bottlecaps in the spokes and they are read as musical notes, to put it very roughly. These are 24" wheelchair wheels, they have outstanding bearings and will spin forever, but in order to make them synchronized I decided to place a rotating round piece of rubber (the orange thing) making them turn in the opposite direction at exactly the same speed. And in so doing I've drastically reduced the expressive capability of the thing but also made it easier to sync with other equipment. The problem is it is too loud. Now the ones from floppies I think are far too small. So are record player motors. Here's something I was just looking at on ebay:  https://www.ebay.com/itm/4042325602...ABk9SR5C1usj2YQ Oh, but yeah, I am so excited about it I have to suppress my urge to post about it all the time, here is one video of it, 30 seconds long. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=k_eCMsTVKsg And watching it, I think my box here is not any more quiet than what I'm seeing, daggonit. I'm currently burying it in laundry and wrapped blankets around it and it is still too loud!
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Apr 24, 2023 20:03
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Speaking of ridiculous art projects to generate sounds, I got my relay bank hooked up and it is every bit as awesome as I hoped it would be. Currently working on integrating it with my puzzle, but 
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Apr 24, 2023 20:17
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Rexxed posted:I've been using those cheap magnetic cables and ends that you leave in the device for a few things around the house, headsets especially. The circular ones don't carry anything but power and ground so they're slower charging but there are some four pin ones that are a little better, you just have to care about the direction they're plugged in. It's not eliminating the wire but it saves wear on the port and having to plug stuff in. It might be more useful than the coil, or you could look at getting a Qi compatible coil for the headset side and use a charging pad with multiple coils, like a phone pad, mouse pad (the logitech one is kind of pricey but might work), or one of the multi-device pads. The Qi coil would also make sense if I can stick it inside the earpiece. I do have a few charging pads that I use for the phone and buds and stuff but I'd try to design some sort of hanger that would hold it the headset by the earpiece instead of the headband as it does now. Well, I'm off to do some measurements 
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Apr 24, 2023 20:28
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petit choux posted:Oh, but yeah, I am so excited about it I have to suppress my urge to post about it all the time, here is one video of it, 30 seconds long. Holy poo poo, I love this.
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Apr 24, 2023 20:39
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cruft posted:Speaking of ridiculous art projects to generate sounds, I got my relay bank hooked up and it is every bit as awesome as I hoped it would be. Here's mine: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MHnJ7TRUzdE
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Apr 24, 2023 20:42
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Shame Boy posted:I mean it's a general textbook that tries to cover everything Nothing specific at the moment, I just want to relearn all the basics of analogue and digital electronics (not interested in AC stuff particularly)
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Apr 24, 2023 21:02
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petit choux posted:But it's loud. I took a rechargable drill motor and built up this heavy box to reduce the noise for it and lined it with carpeting, and it is still too loud. I think maybe I should be looking for a quiet motor, but I've never even thought about that. Where do I find a quiet motor? And one that fit this enclosure might be nice but that isn't necessary, I'll do it all over if I have to. You could also try a lower voltage. I know that's one way to make DC fans run quieter. It means less power to the motor but you shouldn't need much with that setup.
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Apr 24, 2023 22:13
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Again, the noise of that motor is going to be mostly from the gearbox and from the sliding brushes. Car window motors etc are still going to be brushed and geared, and they aren't designed to run continuously either. A belt drive is silent at low speeds, and a brushless motor doesn't have any sliding parts. That's my recommendation. A decently sized stepper motor (which is brushless) and a silent driver like the TMC2130 would work, but that's getting pretty deep into electronics.
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Apr 24, 2023 23:05
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Sagebrush posted:Again, the noise of that motor is going to be mostly from the gearbox and from the sliding brushes. Car window motors etc are still going to be brushed and geared, and they aren't designed to run continuously either. Much appreciated, will be searching for motors I guess. I also want it to be DC if possible, unless that makes it a lot more difficult to find one.
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Apr 25, 2023 00:07
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Has anyone played with any PLCs before? I watched Tim Hunkin's latest Secret Life of Components video and now I kinda want to try one. Some of the older engineers use to use them at my job for automated test fixtures and now I understand why, they seem insanely cool. I don't want to get a used one, since I have irrational concerns about whatever random contaminants a decommissioned PLC was exposed to in a factory (I think Tim mentioned getting one that was full of powdered tea, which is less harmful than most contaminants). There seem to be a lot of Mitsubishi PLC clones available, but it seems like at least some of them are imperfect clones with missing or changed features. Before I waste time doing a bunch of research, I'm wondering if anyone has a suggestion for one to start with (and a software package for configuring them)
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Apr 25, 2023 04:01
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I've used them professionally a bunch, so I'm trying very very hard to keep my negativity at bay: Why?
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Apr 25, 2023 04:04
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