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Has anyone here done a Stuart unmachined kit before? I'm looking at doing one of these with the kiddo, https://www.stuartmodels.com/product/stuart-s50-unmachined/ and I'm curious how everything arrives and what the plans look like.
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Apr 30, 2023 15:23
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Yooper posted:Has anyone here done a Stuart unmachined kit before? I'm looking at doing one of these with the kiddo, https://www.stuartmodels.com/product/stuart-s50-unmachined/ and I'm curious how everything arrives and what the plans look like. I don’t know if it’s exactly the same, but it looks an awful lot like the Blondihacks engine from this playlist. No clue if they’re the same size or scale but this might give you an idea of what you’re getting into: https://youtube.com/playlist?list=PLY67-4BrEae-XWDD_Bd8Fj823Jarqofbw
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Apr 30, 2023 15:52
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Bad Munki posted:I could probably do it poorly in under three hours My boss has a story about a guy he was interviewing for a position years ago who told him “I’m not very good, but I’m slow”. He hired him on the spot and the guy worked for him for 15 years.
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Apr 30, 2023 16:00
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tylertfb posted:the guy worked for him for 15 years. That’s an expensive part
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Apr 30, 2023 16:01
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NewFatMike posted:I don’t know if it’s exactly the same, but it looks an awful lot like the Blondihacks engine from this playlist. No clue if they’re the same size or scale but this might give you an idea of what you’re getting into: Exactly what I was looking for, thanks!
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Apr 30, 2023 22:24
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Yeah in this case since I have the original screw for the other side, I can actually check the thread pitch and diameter by finding an appropriate modern nut, so I'm gonna do that. Drilling it out isn't really a great option because the screw passes through part of the handle, the centerpoint of one side of the drawknife's blade, and then threads into the other side of the handle. It's a very tight snug fit, which is important for the tool's use. Some previous owner's "fix" was to just put a wrong sized screw through and put a nut on the other end, and if I can't find the right screw that's probably the fix I'll fall back on. It's a vintage fix! The nut is square and it has a lovely patina on it. Thanks for the help everyone. I've started scrolling through ebay auctions of vintage screws and hardware, because of course people just dumped grandpa's coffee can out onto a table, said "I bet I can get ten bucks for this on ebay", and threw it up for giggles.
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May 1, 2023 05:07
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ante posted:I have unlocked arbitrary thread pitches. Bring back the good thread title
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May 1, 2023 06:11
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 I think that calls for a fastener chart to go with the arbitrary 1/4-22.5 fasteners.
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May 1, 2023 20:56
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My favorite part of that image is that a handful of the designs would be genuinely useful in niche cases.
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May 2, 2023 01:12
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I figured this might be more suitable here than the tools thread. Anyone have experience with the Pro-point (Princess auto brand) Plasma cutter with on board compressor? This one: https://www.princessauto.com/en/procut-40a-plasma-cutter-with-built-in-compressor/product/PA0009081357 We do a bunch of metal cutting at work and I'm sick of most of that poo poo being with either a loud rear end chop saw or loud rear end angle grinder with cutoff wheel.
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May 3, 2023 00:50
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If you avoid talking to Lincoln/Miller die hards, nobody seems to be having any trouble with the latest crop of inverter stuff coming out of China, at least for light duty work
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May 3, 2023 02:37
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The biggest issue with the internal compressor units is the reduction in capacity when using the internal compressor. That unit goes down to 10mm cut on mild steel from 16mm when using the internal compressor. If you already have shop air, then I would go with one of the normal units for less money. Also check to make sure the consumables for that torch are available. Wouldn't be the first time I bought something from princess auto and found spares were NLA.
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May 3, 2023 05:05
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Thanks for the replies RE: plasma cutter, I'll get back to that this evening, in the mean time I have a more urgent question. Why is the needle on my Acetylene gauge(s) fluctuating? I have the tank valve cracked open a quarter - half turn, thats how I usually do it and never seem to have issue in the past. The tank (small, 20ish CuFt) is freshly filled, just picked it up half an hour ago, so the tank pressure guage reads about 200psi +/- a bit, and the line pressure gauge reads about So when I open the valve, both needles fluctuate up and down and when I light the torch I can hear the sound of the flame "going up and down" for lack of a better way to describe it. This happened to me once before, months ago and it stopped after a bit. Tanks were transported on an angle, probably 30-45 degrees, it was either that or they would have had to roll around in the back and clank in to each other. I've shut down for the time being. E: I had the valve open (unlit) and saw some liquid coming out, as I know that Acetylene tanks have acetone in them, its probably Acetone, maybe from when the tank was on its side. Going to let it sit upright for a while and then turn the gas on and try to get all the liquid out before I light up again. E2: in other news, the needles don't seem to be fluctuating as much, after having let some liquid puke out the head. E3: Looking around, looks like I've been keeping the line pressure way too high. E4: Looks like I was reading the wrong scale, that was 50KPA, not PSI wesleywillis fucked around with this message at 19:49 on May 3, 2023 |
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May 3, 2023 19:29
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Acetylene tanks must be kept upright, and if yours was transported at an angle, I would let the tank settle for at least half a day before you try to do anything with it.
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May 3, 2023 20:32
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Hadlock posted:If you avoid talking to Lincoln/Miller die hards, nobody seems to be having any trouble with the latest crop of inverter stuff coming out of China, at least for light duty work Yeah a bunch of poo poo that we've gotten from Princess auto these days has been surprisingly not poo poo lately. ZincBoy posted:The biggest issue with the internal compressor units is the reduction in capacity when using the internal compressor. That unit goes down to 10mm cut on mild steel from 16mm when using the internal compressor. If you already have shop air, then I would go with one of the normal units for less money. We have a small compressor, but its not very big. Like volume wise I mean.. Mainly used for pumping up tires. As for the cut thickness, we had one guy that seemed to love making everything out of 1/4 wall steel, but for the most part, the thickest stuff we're dealing with regularly is 3/16" so 10mm/ 3/8" should be plenty. For consumables, it looks like they use the same stuff as some of the other ones they offer, and since this one seems to have just been introduced, I like to hope that they'll be available for a while. But then again, who the gently caress knows?
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May 4, 2023 00:17
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Sagebrush posted:Acetylene tanks must be kept upright, and if yours was transported at an angle, I would let the tank settle for at least half a day before you try to do anything with it. ^^^^^^^^^ It's this. Maybe 24 hours would be better.
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May 4, 2023 01:20
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honda whisperer posted:^^^^^^^^^ Weld shop said at least overnight, then showed off the book full of cars and vans rapidly turned into convertibles.
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May 4, 2023 04:31
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Having a hell of a time finding some tubing, maybe y'all can help - I need a new column for my drill press. The original specs call for 67 inches of 2.75 diameter x .125 wall thickness DOM. This is prohibitively expensive, so I'm trying to find an alternative. Maybe ERW? The supply shops I've been in touch with are all coming up empty, not even able to order it. I know there has to be an option out there, any ideas?
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May 5, 2023 14:39
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Ghostnuke posted:Having a hell of a time finding some tubing, maybe y'all can help - Alro is showing a couple cutoff remnants of that size DOM around 80" in stock but I can't see pricing maybe give them a call
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May 5, 2023 14:51
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shame on an IGA posted:Alro is showing a couple cutoff remnants of that size DOM around 80" in stock but I can't see pricing maybe give them a call drat near $300 before shipping, can't justify that. I don't care if it's DOM, I just want SOME kind of pipe/tubing in a 2.75 OD. I can fudge the wall thickness...
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May 5, 2023 16:21
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This feels like one of those situations where you can spend ages on the net trying to find what you want at a decent price. But walk into a physical store and talk to someone about what you are looking for and chances are they will have it and cheaper than anything online to boot. That's how it's been so often for me, I go to the local construction supplier / machine rental and they often have all kinds of stuff and at better prices than anything on line or from the big box stores.
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May 5, 2023 16:28
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Absolutely. The trades businesses that are buying stuff like this do not spend hours looking at websites, they go to their suppliers and ask. Also their suppliers sometimes are willing to help random pubbies who want one (1) piece of metal for a project, but some of them are a bit more concerned with their commercial customers buying five+ figures of material at a time, so be patient and have your question ready and try not to waste people's time. But also some of them can be very friendly and cool. It's a mixed bag. It's been a few years but alcoa metals in oakland CA was like that, a busy shop, forklifts going to and fro, contractors buying pallets of stuff, but they had a scrap bin and were patient with me buying some random bits of metal and asking for a 4x4 sheet of quarter inch steel to be put in my truck too. Also are you sure you need a new drill press column? Is it irreparable? Or like, too short or something?
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May 5, 2023 16:34
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Leperflesh posted:Also are you sure you need a new drill press column? Is it irreparable? Or like, too short or something? Yeah, I'm refurbing an old 50s Craftsman. The column I have is for a benchtop model, but I'd like floor standing.
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May 5, 2023 16:43
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if you have a piece of 2 1/2" schedule 160 steel pipe turned down on a lathe it'll end up about the same wall thickness
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May 5, 2023 17:36
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Do you need to be able to slide the table all the way down to the floor? Can you weld the existing pipe onto some other sort of base or extension?
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May 5, 2023 17:37
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2.75” exhaust pipe packed full of epoxy and coarse sand?
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May 5, 2023 17:47
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Sagebrush posted:Do you need to be able to slide the table all the way down to the floor? Can you weld the existing pipe onto some other sort of base or extension? Yes, but no. The foot and the head are at the ends and the table is in the middle, so it has to be 2.75 the whole way. Really the OD is the only important dimension, I could have thicker walled stuff no problem.
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May 5, 2023 18:09
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how much material is on the pieces that clamp on to it maybe you could bore them out enough to use plain ol 2 1/2" iron pipe
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May 5, 2023 18:24
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or add an insert, like a collar, since 2.5 is smaller than 2.75
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May 5, 2023 18:28
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This seems like a lot of work for a Craftsman.
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May 5, 2023 18:31
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Leperflesh posted:or add an insert, like a collar, since 2.5 is smaller than 2.75 oh my non plumbing friend I have such nominal dimension horrors to show you we are entering a world of pain where 2 1/2 = 2.88 and 3 = 3.50 shame on an IGA fucked around with this message at 18:41 on May 5, 2023 |
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May 5, 2023 18:37
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lol oh of course, I forgot about that
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May 5, 2023 18:51
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Ghostnuke posted:Having a hell of a time finding some tubing, maybe y'all can help - Do you have a metal supermarket near you? https://www.metalsupermarkets.com/metals/mild-steel-round-tube/ They have a gang of poo poo, will sell to you, some random guy walking in off the street, there (should be) no minimum order, and if they don't have it they can probably get it. Often they can cut it while you wait.
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May 5, 2023 19:48
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Metal supermarket is great but 100% call your local place, their online system doesn't always show stock correctly and they'll usually check the drop room for you if you call.
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May 5, 2023 19:53
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I was able to get some weird stuff from them, thin wall 1x3 but it cost a fortune, like $9/ft
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May 5, 2023 20:10
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:This seems like a lot of work for a Craftsman. bro, this thing is a tank. it'll outlive my children  edit: metal supermarket had the hook up, even bringing it to my house Ghostnuke fucked around with this message at 21:46 on May 5, 2023 |
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May 5, 2023 20:13
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Been working on reassembling my rebuilt 1970s pressure washer with the repaired pistons   I checked the return valve yesterday and it didn't look good, had noted it from the beginning but had kind of ignored it as I had so much else to focus on. I can't deal with multiple things at once, I need to go for one thing after another... Easier said than done too! But as I'm done with the most demanding parts of the project I took a closer look at it yesterday and you could see the sunlight through the crack. Yeah that's not going to work.  I have nothing to lose on a broken part so I tried tig-brazing it together with bronze filler, but it was enough welding of the material anyway. And what a horrible material to weld, it "puffed up" with gout's of smoke regularly and white coatings formed on the surface, had to stop and brush off the part multiple times and have fan and door open. I think it's zinc or something in the brass that caused it. The part might be busted from the welding regardless though. The angled part is threaded into a smaller part which can rotate around and I think it has some kind of gasket in there that probably took a beating from the welding. Maybe it can be removed and replaced though.   Did not repair the crack all the way, because that part is inside the brass body and is under the lock nut. Must hand file like two threads to get the lock nut back to original position. Maybe one could fix it all the way and then chuck the part in the lathe and re-turn the threads, but that's a lot of effort for what might be busted anyway. A new return valve may be in my future.
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May 9, 2023 04:45
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Steel and alloys question. I know just enough about different tpyes of steel and alloys to keep myself out of trouble, if that makes sense (i.e. barely beyond 'just enough to get myself in trouble'). I have a stack of old worn out circ saw blades, mostly newer ones, but I also have access to much older ones, of varrying sizes and makes and qualities. I'm thinking about repurposing this metal for making woodworking tools like marking knives, block routers, scratch stocks and various moulding plane cutters, primarily for personal use, custom shapes, or to replace missing parts on antiques. I guess I have a pile of old reciprocating saw blades too which I could also try. My plan is to cut and grind them into shape, heat, quench, and temper, and then sharpen them: can I achieve a reasonable tool this way with simple heating tools like torches and a toaster oven? So, what type of steel is typically used in the bodies of these blades? Is it the kind of steel that can be reworked into a decent cutting edge on that kind of workflow? Would an e.g diablo blade from 2022 be different for this purpose compared to the lovely blade that comes on a new ryobi circ saw, compared to a random unmarked that was made in the 90s vs the rusty ones with apparently no carbide tips that you find at the back of a junk store? Is there any simple way to distinguish useful from not useful material on this front? Is there other reasonably accessible material (old files or hand saws, perhaps) which might serve this purpose just as well?
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May 11, 2023 15:11
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 You also mention files, those are high carbon steel, Google says most likely 1045 steel Not sure about others but typically any circular saw blade for wood is going to have teeth welded to the body. Presumably (and I'm wild rear end guessing here) the body is mild steel to bend and take the initial load, while the hardened steel tips are probably some heat treated XYZ No idea on blades with no hardened teeth. It probably varies a ton If the majority of the blades are all the same kind id focus questions on those first
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May 11, 2023 15:24
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CommonShore posted:Steel and alloys question. I know just enough about different tpyes of steel and alloys to keep myself out of trouble, if that makes sense (i.e. barely beyond 'just enough to get myself in trouble'). I’m not sure that circ saw blade bodies would be that great of steel since it’s the carbide cutters brazed on that are doing the work. If you can find and old blade where the teeth and saw plate are made of the same material, it’s likely better steel than a modern one with brazed on teeth. If you’re familiar with a grinder spark test that should give you at least some idea if it’s decently high carbon or not.
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May 11, 2023 15:28
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