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Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

How do fish handle cyanobacteria, or do they not

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Warbadger
Jun 17, 2006

Hadlock posted:

How do fish handle cyanobacteria, or do they not

They usually only die if it gets out of hand and consumes all the oxygen. I don't think they're particularly susceptible to the toxins.

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Moon Slayer posted:

When should I do my first water change? Here's the timeline as of today:

Plants - 1 week
Snail - 5 days
Fish - 3 days

I would probably do a 20% water change today or tomorrow if it's a new tank, out of an abundance of caution, since you recently added the fish and another one in 5 days

Pls post photos of Dr snail and fish

Stoca Zola
Jun 28, 2008

Hadlock posted:

Welp, sorry what? I've got a leathery mat of what looks like cyan colored stuff in my pond, what's wrong with it?

I figure fish are swimming near it, not consuming it. And the form it was in the fish tank was a sticky mat, which they were fine with for quite a long time before I got around to treating it, and this is like a fine scummy surface disaster ie it'll go right into the mouth of anyone dumb enough to have a drink. It reminds me of the floating paint layer you get when you do hydro-dip style painting and it sticks to skin in much the same way if you put your hand in it.

Mine looks like a thinner lighter green version of this:


After having a quick read I don't think my waste water pond is necessarily toxic right now, and I could only find info on cattle, horses, dogs birds and fish being harmed, not cats. But I figure if left alone it WILL get to dangerous levels. I've had a bloom occur in a bucket a couple of years ago and it got very thick, very quickly, but I just tipped that out and didn't think much of it. I didn't have an active stocked pond to worry about contaminating back then. It looks like last time I bought chemiclean, I bought the big size so I should have enough to treat this pond and have some left. I had thought I still only had a small tube of it.

Stoca Zola fucked around with this message at 23:13 on Apr 25, 2023

Lareine
Jul 22, 2007

KIIIRRRYYYUUUUU CHAAAANNNNNN
From what I've heard, not all cyanobacteria are toxic but you really can't tell at a glance what you have. I mean, spirulina is cyanobacteria and that's fine.

I would try to cover it up and try to deprive it of light while dosing it.

Stoca Zola
Jun 28, 2008

I don't have a tarp big enough to cover a 1.5m diameter circular pond but it isn't getting any direct sunlight so I'll see if just dosing it will work - I'm not 100% convinced it's going to do much because this life phase of whatever cyanobacteria it is seems to be hydrophobic. It's really solidly like a dry powder on top of the water and I'm not sure that the medicated water is even touching it. I've got a pump running now to try and get the medication evenly mixed so that might help, in the aquarium it only takes a day or two for full effect so I won't need to wait long to find out if it's working. If it doesn't start clearing up I will worry about getting something big enough to black it out. Until then, hopefully the chemiclean stinks badly enough that it discourages the cats.

Moon Slayer
Jun 19, 2007

Hadlock posted:

I would probably do a 20% water change today or tomorrow if it's a new tank, out of an abundance of caution, since you recently added the fish and another one in 5 days

Pls post photos of Dr snail and fish



The good doctor has been doing a lot more climbing recently. Earlier today I watched him make a few laps over the round rock in the next picture.



Lookit these little guys. :3: They've been darting around a lot more starting today instead of sticking to the corners of the tank. There's two that are almost always together and a third that's a bit more of a loner and goes off on his own.

I'll give the water a change tomorrow and then if all is still going well, add a handful more fish on Saturday.

mitochondritom
Oct 3, 2010

I put four amano shrimp in my tank last night. Three seem alright. One has died. They all seemed healthy when I added them to the tank. The one that died I think might have been full off eggs. Maybe the stress of transport from the fish shop was too much?

Lareine
Jul 22, 2007

KIIIRRRYYYUUUUU CHAAAANNNNNN

mitochondritom posted:

I put four amano shrimp in my tank last night. Three seem alright. One has died. They all seemed healthy when I added them to the tank. The one that died I think might have been full off eggs. Maybe the stress of transport from the fish shop was too much?

Shrimp are more sensitive to water changes. It's generally recommended to drip acclimate your shrimp instead of plop and drop. You do this by taking airline tubing, putting a couple of knots in it and starting a syphon from the tank to the bucket you put your shrimp in.

mitochondritom
Oct 3, 2010

Ahh it was a false alarm. It had molted overnight. I have counted all four messing about!!!!

Lareine
Jul 22, 2007

KIIIRRRYYYUUUUU CHAAAANNNNNN

mitochondritom posted:

Ahh it was a false alarm. It had molted overnight. I have counted all four messing about!!!!

Oh good.

Yeah, the first time you see a molt is kind of concerning but it's way different than a dead shrimp. Dead shrimp look more opaque, they are lying on their sides/back. Pretty unmistakable.

z0331
Oct 2, 2003

Holtby thy name
Our tank has been trucking along for about a week and a half with our cherry barbs, one nerite snail, and a baby snail that hitched in on a plant. Parameters are good and I think the barbs are doing well. I don't plan to rush anything but was looking to what to add next and would like to do some amano shrimp. Is quarantining shrimp before adding to an establish tank a good thing to do? I know I should do it for fish, especially if I get them from different places, but wasn't sure if it was as big a deal with shrimp. If I quarantine them, I figured I'd do it for a couple weeks so that when they're ready to add, the main tank will have been going for about a month.

Related, any thoughts on the most dead-simple quarantine tank set-up? I guess at least a small sponge filter, some fake plants, and maybe a heater depending on the room's temperature? And bacteria supplements?

Edit: We have a planted 20 gallon. Eventually I'd like to have ~8 barbs, 5 panda cories, a few shrimp, and maybe one other thing that I haven't decided yet.

z0331 fucked around with this message at 16:04 on Apr 26, 2023

mitochondritom
Oct 3, 2010





Ah I'm so pleased with them. I wish I'd got an aquarium years ago.

DeadlyMuffin
Jul 3, 2007

I found an LFS that will take my shrimp for store credit!

Lareine
Jul 22, 2007

KIIIRRRYYYUUUUU CHAAAANNNNNN
Ugh. Another day, another few dead shrimp. Plan of attack is a water change tomorrow. I'm going to start enriching the water with minerals again now that I'm down to kH 4 and gH 6. I've also got a bag of Purigen coming. I'll replace the spent carbon media with it. I just hope it doesn't alter the pH too much. That could be part of the problem too. Since my kH has gone down, my tank is starting to acidify. Granted, it's going from a 7.8 down to more of 7.4 - 7.6 so the water is still basic but again, it could be stressing out the shrimp.

Cowslips Warren
Oct 29, 2005

What use had they for tricks and cunning, living in the enemy's warren and paying his price?

Grimey Drawer
Gahhhh did a water change tonight cause I've been feeding the serpent stars every other day, and the temp was off by 3 degrees. So my male urchin decided to release the hounds. he's chilling in a cup now.

Rated PG-34
Jul 1, 2004




I fed the fish and one of them freaked out and flipped upside down and sank to the bottom where he sat for a few minutes. He’s back to normal now at least. Is this swim bladder disease?

Stoca Zola
Jun 28, 2008

z0331 posted:

Is quarantining shrimp before adding to an establish tank a good thing to do?

You pretty much just need to visually inspect a shrimp to look for green dangly parasites under their tails, which sometimes can be hard to spot because shrimp eggs can be green themselves depending on the shrimp's diet. The parasite is Cladogonium ogishimae (sometimes misidentified as ellobiopsidae) and is difficult to treat because the medicines that are toxic to this parasite are often also toxic to the shrimp and you don't want it spreading in a known healthy tank.

I've referred to this page for info in the past https://aquariumbreeder.com/ellobiopsidae-or-cladogonium-ogishimae-green-fungus-in-shrimp-tank/

Lareine
Jul 22, 2007

KIIIRRRYYYUUUUU CHAAAANNNNNN

Stoca Zola posted:

You pretty much just need to visually inspect a shrimp to look for green dangly parasites under their tails, which sometimes can be hard to spot because shrimp eggs can be green themselves depending on the shrimp's diet. The parasite is Cladogonium ogishimae (sometimes misidentified as ellobiopsidae) and is difficult to treat because the medicines that are toxic to this parasite are often also toxic to the shrimp and you don't want it spreading in a known healthy tank.

I've referred to this page for info in the past https://aquariumbreeder.com/ellobiopsidae-or-cladogonium-ogishimae-green-fungus-in-shrimp-tank/

Thing is, if you order shrimp, they should be juveniles anyway so they SHOULDN'T be berried. If you get in a bunch of shrimp with what appears to be eggs while they are relatively small still, be VERY suspicious.

If you are adding new shrimp to a colony especially if they are imported, quarantining is best practice. I didn't with mine because they were the first shrimp I had.

DeadlyMuffin
Jul 3, 2007

Lareine posted:

Thing is, if you order shrimp, they should be juveniles anyway so they SHOULDN'T be berried. If you get in a bunch of shrimp with what appears to be eggs while they are relatively small still, be VERY suspicious.

If you are adding new shrimp to a colony especially if they are imported, quarantining is best practice. I didn't with mine because they were the first shrimp I had.

I've been told that juveniles acclimate better, but is that actually true? Sellers are incentivized to sell younger animals so I'm a bit suspicious.

z0331
Oct 2, 2003

Holtby thy name

Stoca Zola posted:

You pretty much just need to visually inspect a shrimp to look for green dangly parasites under their tails, which sometimes can be hard to spot because shrimp eggs can be green themselves depending on the shrimp's diet. The parasite is Cladogonium ogishimae (sometimes misidentified as ellobiopsidae) and is difficult to treat because the medicines that are toxic to this parasite are often also toxic to the shrimp and you don't want it spreading in a known healthy tank.

I've referred to this page for info in the past https://aquariumbreeder.com/ellobiopsidae-or-cladogonium-ogishimae-green-fungus-in-shrimp-tank/


Lareine posted:

Thing is, if you order shrimp, they should be juveniles anyway so they SHOULDN'T be berried. If you get in a bunch of shrimp with what appears to be eggs while they are relatively small still, be VERY suspicious.

If you are adding new shrimp to a colony especially if they are imported, quarantining is best practice. I didn't with mine because they were the first shrimp I had.

Thanks. So it sound like if they are the first/only shrimp we add to a tank that already has fish, there's little worry about them passing things on to the fish? Basically I wasn't sure if there were parasites/bacteria/etc that they might carry or be infected with that could harm the fish. Although it also seems like medicines that treat fish stuff are often pretty bad for shrimp?

Lareine
Jul 22, 2007

KIIIRRRYYYUUUUU CHAAAANNNNNN

DeadlyMuffin posted:

I've been told that juveniles acclimate better, but is that actually true? Sellers are incentivized to sell younger animals so I'm a bit suspicious.

Yes, they do. They are more tolerant of change in water parameters and even if it does trigger a premature molt, they molt more often anyway so it's more likely to be successful.

z0331 posted:

Thanks. So it sound like if they are the first/only shrimp we add to a tank that already has fish, there's little worry about them passing things on to the fish? Basically I wasn't sure if there were parasites/bacteria/etc that they might carry or be infected with that could harm the fish. Although it also seems like medicines that treat fish stuff are often pretty bad for shrimp?

They can in theory bring in ich but that's kind of unlikely since they'd be in shrimp dedicated tanks for breeding anyway. But aside from ich, there is very little crossover. You are correct that a lot of fish medicine is unsafe for shrimp. Many medicines utilize copper or copper compounds and shrimp loving hate that and just up and die. They are so sensitive that sometimes putting them in a tank that had been treated with copper medication in the past can still cause them to die because of traces of copper getting into the silicone sealing.

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Copper has been used in anti fouling paint on boats for years because it's really effective, but also they're starting to ban it because it flakes off over time and just murders aquatic life nearby and a hundred years worth is already sitting on the bottom of most bays and Marinas now

Lareine
Jul 22, 2007

KIIIRRRYYYUUUUU CHAAAANNNNNN
Goddamn it, even after another water change, my nitrates are still at around 40. It sucks only being able to do 2.5 gals at time. I guess I'm setting up another for Saturday.

B33rChiller
Aug 18, 2011




Hadlock posted:

Copper has been used in anti fouling paint on boats for years because it's really effective, but also they're starting to ban it because it flakes off over time and just murders aquatic life nearby and a hundred years worth is already sitting on the bottom of most bays and Marinas now

I did a co-op program in college, and worked in the engine room of a tanker for one of my sea phases. We had a "marine growth prevention system" for all the pipe work that carried sea water(used for cooling). It injected copper ions into the water stream through the use of electrodes. I guess it keeps any mussel or barnacle embryos from attaching and jamming up valves, etc.

bottom paint of all kinds is nasty stuff for most any kind of life.

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004



100% of the fish survived being in my checked luggage NC -> CA

Or at least, none of them were doing anything weird within an hour of being transferred to the new pond.

Originally was gonna go for the 150 gallon Rubbermaid, this is merely 100 gallons

Somehow in the scramble, all my plants got jettisoned, but thankfully I put a handful of java Fern and some water hyacinth lettuce soaked in java moss

Will do more with the pond, particularly cover for the fish, this was just to get them into healthy water for tonight. Also apparently the sponge filter I ordered has the world's shortest air hose and cable

Hadlock fucked around with this message at 16:26 on Apr 29, 2023

Lareine
Jul 22, 2007

KIIIRRRYYYUUUUU CHAAAANNNNNN
Today was kind of rough. I saw a dead berried female in the morning, thought that was it but saw three more die over the span of the day. I thought this was partially due to a molt issue but berried females aren't supposed to molt to begin with. It really drags your mood down, I get anxious just thinking about the tank now. I did put in the purigen though and I am going to do a water change in the morning.

St. Blaize
Oct 11, 2007
I am about to setup my first aquarium and am stuck on what kind of substrate to use. Here are the tank details/plans:

  • 10 Gallons
  • Heavily planted
  • Fish
  • Shrimp
  • Snails

Going to start with a fishless cycle. I have pool filter sand as a cap for whatever i use as the base layer but I dont know what to use for that. Been seeing a lot about fluval stratum but also a lot about dirted or walstad setups but the info is all over the place. Might want to go darker than the sand since the it will make the fish colors pop more. Anyone have any recommendations?

I'm also looking for fish recommendations. The aquarium will be somewhere that is 70F year round and my kids want fish that "glow". What would work? If necessary I could grab a heater but would probably want one that wouldnt be pushing the temp too much above 75ish.

Legitimately overwhelming myself with info at this point.

Enos Cabell
Nov 3, 2004



Hell yeah, nice job! Good luck getting everything set up once you get settled in there.

trilobite terror
Oct 20, 2007
BUT MY LIVELIHOOD DEPENDS ON THE FORUMS!

St. Blaize posted:

I am about to setup my first aquarium and am stuck on what kind of substrate to use. Here are the tank details/plans:

  • 10 Gallons
  • Heavily planted
  • Fish
  • Shrimp
  • Snails

Going to start with a fishless cycle. I have pool filter sand as a cap for whatever i use as the base layer but I dont know what to use for that. Been seeing a lot about fluval stratum but also a lot about dirted or walstad setups but the info is all over the place. Might want to go darker than the sand since the it will make the fish colors pop more. Anyone have any recommendations?

I'm also looking for fish recommendations. The aquarium will be somewhere that is 70F year round and my kids want fish that "glow". What would work? If necessary I could grab a heater but would probably want one that wouldnt be pushing the temp too much above 75ish.

Legitimately overwhelming myself with info at this point.

For your first aquarium, I would go with Stratum or BioStratum if you want a smaller grain size (I would stick with Stratum myself, as the smaller grains are gonna be harder to control and keep under the decorative sand).

Dirt and compost is advanced-tier tankkeeping, and not something I’d mess with until you’re seasoned enough at things like thinking about nutrients/etc, if ever. I’ve been keeping tanks for decades and have zero interest in loving around with organic fertilizers in an aquarium environment.

Maybe go for a school of small tetras or a small group of guppies/endlers/swordtails. Or a single betta. All of these will harass and eat shrimp, so consider going shrimp/snails only or fish/snails only.

A 20-30 gal won’t cost much more or take up much more horizontal space than a 10, and will give you a ton more internal space for fish/a much wider array of fish species and also plants.

I’ve watched my dad over the past two years run out of space in a planted 5, then 10 gallon tank with just like a couple of Java ferns and like one anubias that has propagated itself a bunch. A tiny “heavily planted” tank will become overgrown much more quickly than you might expect with very few starter plants.

If you want a nice Dutch-style water garden or Amazon root planting you might be better off sizing up now.

As far as a heater is concerned I’d get one of those 50W short ones that are hard-set to like 75 degrees or whatever. If it really stays 70 year round in that room then a heater might not be necessary depending on what fish you choose. In fact, I just took the heaters out of three small planted tanks I have because they were making the water too warm and causing it to evaporate unnecessarily quickly.

Having redundant heaters and making sure the tank never fluctuates more than a couple of degrees from 80 is something that reef keepers have to worry about way more than planted freshwater keepers.

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

I don't do indoor fish, but my guess would be that water temp is highly dependent on

1) type of fish. A glofish goldfish or other cold hardy fish won't start caring about water temp until 40F, but a hyper tropical fish might start getting stressed at anything below 74
2) what climate you generally live in. Probably don't need a heater if you live in Texas or Arizona, Florida etc. Particularly in the summer. A house in Michigan is probably going to require one in late January unless you have cold hardy fish
3) what room is the fish in? Southern facing house with big windows = typically very warm in the day, cooling in the evening

Lareine
Jul 22, 2007

KIIIRRRYYYUUUUU CHAAAANNNNNN
I did a water change and only one more shrimp died so far today. Also, my pygmy corydoras are much more active. Maybe the nitrates were getting them down or maybe they are horny from the water changes. Nitrates are around 30 now.

nwin
Feb 25, 2002

make's u think

drat I changed from caribsea ecocomplete (like a smooth gravel) to fluval fluorite black sand today.

I rinsed it a ton but holy poo poo..not enough. I did a few water changes before adding my fish back in and most of the dust has settled now.

Time to grab some filter floss tomorrow.

Rated PG-34
Jul 1, 2004




Rated PG-34 posted:

I fed the fish and one of them freaked out and flipped upside down and sank to the bottom where he sat for a few minutes. He’s back to normal now at least. Is this swim bladder disease?

This happened again, but I saw what happened. The fish got over excited, hit the back glass and got concussed. I guess I shouldn’t use this food as they go too crazy over it.

Rated PG-34
Jul 1, 2004




I picked up a pearlscale (such cuties) and a red oranda at the local pond store for my 35g outdoor container pond. I stuck a eheim 200w heater in since I heard 5 watt per gallon is a good guide but maybe it’s a bit overkill? Could I save a bit of of electricity money with a smaller heater? Temps overnight here can get down to about freezing in the winter (Bay Area).

Rated PG-34 fucked around with this message at 23:35 on Apr 30, 2023

B33rChiller
Aug 18, 2011





Just got the first few plants in the new tank. Looking to consolidate all the critters into one big tank.
Will eventually house a gorillion guppies and mystery snails, which are currently spread across 3 smaller tanks, and a couple Rubbermaid tubs. Also, some random rasboras and tetras. I plan on moving a bunch more plants and some small decorations, but this is a start.
The sponge filters were extras I had running in the tubs, so they're gunked up already, and the tank is dosed heavy with hot ferts.
Now to wait.

B33rChiller fucked around with this message at 22:49 on Apr 30, 2023

Stoca Zola
Jun 28, 2008

Rated PG-34 posted:

I picked up a pearlscale (such cuties) and a red oranda at the local pond store for my 35g outdoor container pond. I stuck a eheim 200w heater in since I heard 5 watt per gallon is a good guide but maybe it’s a bit overkill? Could I save a bit of of electricity money with a smaller heater? Temps overnight here can get down to about freezing in the winter (Bay Area).

I think with a pond that small your main issues are going to be heat loss to the environment rather than under or over rated heater, are you able to wrap the pond or cover it (with something like a double wall polycarbonate greenhouse panel) to keep the heat in? Actually just thinking even a portable mini greenhouse over the whole pond with the edges sealed to the ground could help.

Edit to add: can't remember if I mentioned but adding circulation and dosing my water storage sump pond seems to have nuked the cyano, the surface is free of scum now.

Stoca Zola fucked around with this message at 10:33 on May 1, 2023

Sockser
Jun 28, 2007

This world only remembers the results!




It's near-impossible to get good photos of my tank because it's scratched to gently caress, but hopefully this comes through

I thiiiiink that this is blackbeard algae?




If so, or if not, what's the recommended course of action before it takes over everything?
I've been pulling it out of my tank and scrubbing it off the driftwood by hand when I do water changes but that doesn't really appear to be making any difference long-term

B33rChiller
Aug 18, 2011




you can try glutaraldehyde, but be forewarned it apparently hurts java moss as well as algae. I've not had any luck ridding my tank of blackbeard, but it does sort of level off, and reach an equilibrium at some point before totally smothering everything. The easiest method I've come across, and I would suggest is reducing the light, or breaking up your lighting period into 2 chunks, with a period of darkness between, and seeing how that works for a while. I've found that living with algae, and just cleaning off the glass for viewing purposes has worked quite well. It hasn't killed any java ferns or jungle val, or sagitaria, or anubias yet.

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Lareine
Jul 22, 2007

KIIIRRRYYYUUUUU CHAAAANNNNNN

Sockser posted:

It's near-impossible to get good photos of my tank because it's scratched to gently caress, but hopefully this comes through

I thiiiiink that this is blackbeard algae?




If so, or if not, what's the recommended course of action before it takes over everything?
I've been pulling it out of my tank and scrubbing it off the driftwood by hand when I do water changes but that doesn't really appear to be making any difference long-term

People say using hydrogen peroxide works. Might be worth a shot on hardscape.

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