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Koth posted:True. But it was my dad's bike, so I would like to keep it and modify it to ride it. I'm about two inches taller than him. Are there any wider handlebars that will fit an old style quill stem? If you've got a bike co-op or used parts shop around you should be able to find em relatively easily. It's a pretty easy swap (just match the diameter at the clamp) and a good excuse to change your bartape to something cool anyway.
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May 2, 2023 06:46
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Any of you nz posters dealt with robo kiwi bags before? Are they always pretty slack?
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May 2, 2023 07:16
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Does anyone know what IS mount caliper is compatible with shimano bl-u5010? I have a set of flatmount br-u5000s but my frame is IS in the front and I don't think a converter is going to work there due to the shape of the material around the mount.
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May 2, 2023 17:03
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Salt Fish posted:Does anyone know what IS mount caliper is compatible with shimano bl-u5010? I have a set of flatmount br-u5000s but my frame is IS in the front and I don't think a converter is going to work there due to the shape of the material around the mount. The dealer's manual for those levers lists the BR-U5000, BR-RS785, and BR-UR300 as compatible. The RS785 is post mount, which should work with an adapter. e: Added link Baronash fucked around with this message at 17:32 on May 2, 2023 |
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May 2, 2023 17:28
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I'm happy you're working on this because I had to put my own Metrea project on hold until I can find a decent disc frameset for cheap. Post pictures!
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May 2, 2023 17:37
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Thanks, I had no clue this stuff existed until you posted it. That same day I was kicking around bullhorn ideas for this build and I was really not convinced by other solutions for mounting brakes and shifters, so it was the right time/right place to see it. I'm waiting on international shipping for several items so I'm a few weeks out from starting to build it. That link is helpful, I had been checking the shimano compatibility matrix, but I didn't think to check the groupset specific manual which now that I see it I have a hard copy right here...
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May 2, 2023 17:48
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does anyone know what the letter H on my seat clamp is supposed to indicate? it's on both the upper and the lower part, so I make sure the two are on the same side, but the lower half can be reversed (fwiw) (for a greater offset?) below is a picture i found online of a seat clamp that isn't mine, but hopefully it helps clarify where (on the inside of the clamp) the H is  e: I found a picture of the clamp model on my bike 
Lex Neville fucked around with this message at 18:16 on May 2, 2023 |
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May 2, 2023 18:06
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Koth posted:I have a 1970 (it might be 1977) Raleigh Record that I have set up as a singlespeed/fixie. You can get a positive rise quill stem like this:  People might hate but it's real comfy 
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May 2, 2023 19:49
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Koth posted:True. But it was my dad's bike, so I would like to keep it and modify it to ride it. I'm about two inches taller than him. Are there any wider handlebars that will fit an old style quill stem? If you want new and don't mind spending a bit, look at Nitto handlebars. Be aware that 25.4mm vs. 26.0mm matters if you have an old-style stem without a removable face plate.
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May 2, 2023 21:12
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a loathsome bird posted:You can get a positive rise quill stem like this: That doesn't look so bad. Any idea what stem that is?
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May 2, 2023 21:32
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Lex Neville posted:does anyone know what the letter H on my seat clamp is supposed to indicate? it's on both the upper and the lower part, so I make sure the two are on the same side, but the lower half can be reversed (fwiw) (for a greater offset?) May I'm misremembering but I had a similar clamp on my TCR that could be reversed. If you wanted to change the offset between -15mm and +5mm you unscrewed everything and flipped the lower (and also the upper iirc) to align the grooves. If not you would have a mismatch in the clamped part of the rails between fore and aft. So then the H is likely to indicate that they are facing the same way like you said.
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May 2, 2023 21:39
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a loathsome bird posted:You can get a positive rise quill stem like this: Is this a Fred stem?
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May 2, 2023 21:47
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Koth posted:That doesn't look so bad. Any idea what stem that is? This is it- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CSPN19N, paired with Nitto Olympiade bars. If you don't like the positive rise look, the other option is the extra tall Nitto Technomic stem. Slavvy posted:Is this a Fred stem? Only when I'm riding it with my SPD sandals 
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May 3, 2023 01:12
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Slavvy posted:Is this a Fred stem? 100%. Though hopefully safer than the stack of spacers + dodgy steerer extension. I kind of want to see bike fit style side-on pictures of someone riding that bike, because it just has nothing in common with how you’re meant to sit on a road bike. Bars that high would be really uncomfortable, and they’re tilted way back. Maybe the frame is just massively too big (long anyway) for the rider.
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May 3, 2023 07:48
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Heliosicle posted:May I'm misremembering but I had a similar clamp on my TCR that could be reversed. If you wanted to change the offset between -15mm and +5mm you unscrewed everything and flipped the lower (and also the upper iirc) to align the grooves. If not you would have a mismatch in the clamped part of the rails between fore and aft. So then the H is likely to indicate that they are facing the same way like you said. I hoped and expected that to be it. I reversed both and am about go on a ride, so it's reassuring, thanks!
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May 3, 2023 08:44
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wooger posted:100%. Though hopefully safer than the stack of spacers + dodgy steerer extension. That bike's a Grant Petersen design and I guess the owner's gone for a modern Rivendell fit for which that is comparatively tame. I think the fit probably works for the rider but it's used more as a touring than a road bike. Though looking at the seatpost a size larger could have been better. E. Oops didn't realise it was a loathsome birds own bike. I think it's cool. Havana Affair fucked around with this message at 10:11 on May 3, 2023 |
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May 3, 2023 10:06
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wooger posted:100%. Though hopefully safer than the stack of spacers + dodgy steerer extension. The bars are actually dead flat but the photo does make them look tilted back (the top tube is not flat on this frame). Bike fit on this is within a few mm of my gravel bike (which is set up for touring/endurance riding, not racing), but they do look goofy next to each other because of the gooseneck stem. The main difference on this bike is the older style drops with big ramps. You could not be more wrong about it being uncomfortable though, this thing floats. It's not aero but it wasn't ever going to be. Havana Affair posted:That bike's a Grant Petersen design and I guess the owner's gone for a modern Rivendell fit for which that is comparatively tame. I think the fit probably works for the rider but it's used more as a touring than a road bike. Though looking at the seatpost a size larger could have been better. Thanks! If I'd been buying it new in 1990 then sure but the original question was about making a frame you had work for you and for a cheap find turned commuter this is perfect for me. a loathsome bird fucked around with this message at 11:13 on May 3, 2023 |
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May 3, 2023 11:11
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quote not edit
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May 3, 2023 11:13
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a loathsome bird posted:This is it- https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07CSPN19N, paired with Nitto Olympiade bars. If you don't like the positive rise look, the other option is the extra tall Nitto Technomic stem. Thanks for the help. I ordered a Nitto stem and Velo Orange bars.
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May 3, 2023 12:46
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Koth posted:Thanks for the help. I ordered a Nitto stem and Velo Orange bars.
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May 3, 2023 12:51
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I built my first wheel https://i.imgur.com/DsHaUh8.mp4 I'm probably going to need to back out all the nipples and start over with tensioning and then truing, but it's been pretty fun. Started with some vintage campagnolo hubs that were practically seized, disassembled and cleaned, then regreased and put back together, then built the wheels around them. Rims are H plus son archetypes which I found for pretty cheap, look nice, and had some positive reviews online.
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May 5, 2023 01:19
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 Finally, putting my fixed gear together, is this too tight? Looking at pictures of other bikes some chains seem to have more droop than mine.
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May 9, 2023 00:47
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Wifi Toilet posted:
As long as it's not falling off it's fine, it doesn't need to be ultra tight. Old photos would be of people racing on a track, and they were paranoid about the inefficiency of having the transmission too tight in those days.
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May 9, 2023 00:59
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Wifi Toilet posted:
Have you cycled through the crank to find the tightest spot? If that’s the tension at the tightest spot, that’s probably ok. On the tight end.
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May 9, 2023 01:13
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Wifi Toilet posted:
That looks too tight. If the chain is too tight, you will prematurely wear both the chain AND the rear hub bearings. Running a slack chain isn't just for efficiency. If the chain is too loose, it can fall off. Not great. Here's the safe way to check if your chain is too loose: 1) pick up the bike 2) tip it on it's side so that the chain is upright. 3) spin the crank arm 4) shake the bike like hell If the chain won't come off while spinning, while you are shaking the bike like hell and while it is flat on its side, it won't come off at all. The easy way to adjust tension: If you want it looser: 1) leave the non-drive-side (NDS) hub bolt tight. loosen the drive-side (DS). 2) holding the rim near the bb, pull it slightly towards the NDS. 3) tighten the DS bolt and check tension. 4) loosen the NDS bolt and re-center the wheel, then re-tighten. tension *shouldn't* have changed, but check again. Use the same process in reverse for tightening. This approach lets you make small fine-tune adjustments to the chain tension as opposed to relying on loosening both and getting it perfect. It's especially helpful on bikes with lovely hubs and track-ends that let the bolt slip. bicievino fucked around with this message at 01:39 on May 9, 2023 |
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May 9, 2023 01:35
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Thanks for the advice all! Got a bit more slack in it, feels better now that the top of the chain has some droop. e: don’t make fun of my mechanics boots
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May 9, 2023 02:23
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Looks good to me.
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May 9, 2023 03:31
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the metric I always hear is 1" of flex total up and down in the center, but I think in practice just focus on avoiding any binding at the tightest spot while getting it close with cheap cranksets the tightest to loosest spots vary so widely that tight is almost binding while loose is almost falling off 
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May 9, 2023 18:50
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Fortunately the Miche Pistard is a pretty good crankset. That shouldn't be an issue.
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May 9, 2023 21:57
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Man_of_Teflon posted:the metric I always hear is 1" of flex total up and down in the center, but I think in practice just focus on avoiding any binding at the tightest spot while getting it close Half inch per Park Tool, but that's from pin to pin so yeah maybe closer to 1" from outside-top to outside-bottom of the link: https://www.parktool.com/en-us/blog/repair-help/chain-replacement-single-speed-bikes
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May 10, 2023 15:16
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Good catch, thank you!
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May 11, 2023 05:39
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My gravel bike (Orbea Terra) says not to use spacers above the stem. Is that likely specific to the stem, rather than any other reason? I want to try out a lower stem position but I don't want to commit to cutting the steerer just yet. Could I swap out the stem and use spacers above temporarily?
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May 12, 2023 17:16
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Pantsmaster Bill posted:My gravel bike (Orbea Terra) says not to use spacers above the stem. Is that likely specific to the stem, rather than any other reason? I want to try out a lower stem position but I don't want to commit to cutting the steerer just yet. Could I swap out the stem and use spacers above temporarily? It's likely because you have a carbon steerer and the expansion plug provides support behind the stem when tightened down. This recommendation by bike companies is common. If you eventually cut the steerer once you settle on a position, you should be fine. If you want to be sensitive to the manual, you can buy a cheap stem with a big negative angle to approximate the new position but leaves the stem at the top of the steerer. If you have a round steerer tube, you can also buy a long plug to provide support further down the steerer. You can use https://www.bikegeocalc.com to approximate positions with different stems, etc. if you want to compare things.
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May 12, 2023 17:23
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vikingstrike posted:If you have a round steerer tube, you can also buy a long plug to provide support further down the steerer. Yes this. The area where your stem clamps to the steerer needs to be supported inside by the bung, and the stock bungs aren’t long enough. Measure how far from the top of the steerer the bottom of your stem will clamp on, and then check against the length of this Deda plug https://www.lordgunbicycles.co.uk/deda-70-mm-headset-expander-plug-for-1-1-8-carbon-forks-1
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May 12, 2023 18:01
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Is there a normal rate of air escape from tubes? Mine (in 700c x 38 tires) seem to lose 5-10 psi a week with only light riding, mostly sitting in my dark basement. Should I maybe check the valve cores?
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May 13, 2023 14:29
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presuming butyl (which admittedly I've not used in a while), I think that is more or less a normal rate
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May 13, 2023 14:33
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Yeah, that seems normal
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May 13, 2023 14:41
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Had to donate a piece of bacon to a fellow rider today. That's always fun!
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May 14, 2023 01:40
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I did a dumb, I didn't hold a hydraulic cable tight while torquing the olive and the cable popped out after the olive deformed. I took it apart and there is a tiny plastic piece that was stuck in the olive, and I completely destroyed it trying to extract it:  Does this have a name? As far as I can tell it centers the cable. Artists impression: 
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May 24, 2023 04:01
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"Hose fitting" assuming these look right https://www.jensonusa.com/Hydraulic-Lines-Fittings Remember that you're talking about a part that can be lethal if it fails - make sure you DO NOT order from somewhere like amazon, regardless of the seller
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May 24, 2023 04:17
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