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paberu
Jun 23, 2013

Would also chime in to say have a shop check the hanger alignment (like with a DAG-3 tool), sometimes even brand new hangers are slightly warped and aren't perfectly aligned, due to paint on drop out, etc etc. A crash is very likely to throw it out since a tiny bend at the hanger is going to mess alignment the further away from it you are.

Having good alignment makes derailleur adjustment and shifting work much better. It can be that slight difference to have it shift crisply across the whole cassette.

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ilkhan
Oct 7, 2004

You'll be sorry you made fun of me when Daddy Donald jails all my posting enemies!

Lex Neville posted:

this? (i'm assuming autocorrect turned "adjustment" into "student"?)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UkZxPIZ1ngY
I think that's it. Thank you!

tarlibone
Aug 1, 2014

it's in the mighty hands of steel
Fun Shoe
Dx confirmed: bent hanger. The guy could tell right away. I'm not even sure where it's supposed to be straight, since I've never looked at that one part before. He said that the derailleur took a hit in the best possible place, so the frame was most likely OK. They'll try to bend it back, but if necessary, they'll replace it.

He also said that the wheel was slightly out of true, so they will tweak the spokes to sort that out.

mexecan
Jul 10, 2006

Hadlock posted:

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/bik/d/dublin-club-fuji-valite-steel-road-bike/7613427032.html

Mid 80s Red Fuji club for $250 looks all original? Looks like a mish mash of period correct sugino and suntour



Other option is this, but I like the look of the red bike better, all my bikes have been red and how a bike looks matters a lot to me if I'm gonna ride it

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/bik/d/santa-clara-1988-cannondale-sr500/7616241940.html



Thoughts.


I’m with you on aesthetics. IMO the old Cannondale slaps. Classic colourway and I love that old logo. I think there’s a CAAD13 rim brake frame where they’ve redone a similar colourway/typeface.

Dunno much about that Fuji but if it’s a more touring-focused frame it would likely be more suited to towing a trailer than the Cannondale though.

But aesthetics first for sure.

Turmoilx
Nov 24, 2015

I possibly could of done something more effective with this money but I'm not sure.
starting to think about that pinarello i passed up in the basement of a junk store because all those bikes were in bad shape but its frame alone was probably worth something 80s or 90s something like that

should i buy vintage bikes if they're really cheap? i never got a price on any of those there didn't ask. i don't actually know if people like to buy those

Turmoilx fucked around with this message at 13:20 on May 3, 2023

Ihmemies
Oct 6, 2012

Usually no work has been done on vintage bikes. Everything is shot including all the bearings. Old parts are awful compared to new one. Frame is usually the only good part, and even that might have been built to fucky standards if the French made it.

How do I know? I’ve bought and fixed two :v:

Turmoilx
Nov 24, 2015

I possibly could of done something more effective with this money but I'm not sure.
lol silly thought nevermind

Shadowhand00
Jan 23, 2006

Golden Bear is ever watching; day by day he prowls, and when he hears the tread of lowly Stanfurd red,from his Lair he fiercely growls.
Toilet Rascal
I wouldn't buy a vintage frame unless I knew what I was doing or going to do with it.

dema
Aug 13, 2006

Friend of mine is selling his 7-Eleven Merckx. Good thing it's a size too small for me.

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Hadlock posted:

I'm gonna go buy this bike in about 2 hours



https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/bik/d/dublin-club-fuji-valite-steel-road-bike/7613427032.html

Mid 80s Red Fuji club for $250 looks all original? Looks like a mish mash of period correct sugino and suntour

Somewhere in a box I have a full... I forget the name... Groupset? Of Shimano Sora 3000 which looks a lot like mid 2000s 105 gear, I think this will bolt up to any 80s Japanese bike

Oh right I'm gonna tow a two wheel kiddie trailer thing to take my daughter to daycare in it

Bought the red bike and it's :krad: story on the bike is it's his buddy's bike who bought it new in 198X & they originally had it listed at $500+ but the market is soft right now kept dropping the price. His buddy is a runner and basically never used it, it has zero scratches except a tiny chip in the paint on the non-drive side chainstay and one other tiny chip I forget where. Bike also feels like it had a tune up immediately before sale

Will probably convert it over to sora 3000 this fall, might adjust the horns/brakes a little bit they're especially aggressively positioned for MAX AERO and I'm gonna be a bit more relaxed hauling my 2.5yo around behind me

Bike really does look like it just rolled off the LBS floor 35 years ago :getin:

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Have bikes that old got modern QR rear axle spacing?

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

126 vs 130mm rear axle spacing is not a huge problem if you have a spoke wrench. I converted my 12 speed motor bacon to a 16 speed claris a long time ago, only needed to adjust the dish of the wheel by half a cm or so

Project M.A.M.I.L.
Apr 30, 2007

Older, balder, fatter...

Hadlock posted:

Bought the red bike and it's :krad: story on the bike is it's his buddy's bike who bought it new in 198X & they originally had it listed at $500+ but the market is soft right now kept dropping the price. His buddy is a runner and basically never used it, it has zero scratches except a tiny chip in the paint on the non-drive side chainstay and one other tiny chip I forget where. Bike also feels like it had a tune up immediately before sale

Will probably convert it over to sora 3000 this fall, might adjust the horns/brakes a little bit they're especially aggressively positioned for MAX AERO and I'm gonna be a bit more relaxed hauling my 2.5yo around behind me

Bike really does look like it just rolled off the LBS floor 35 years ago :getin:

That bike is awesome, I love the coloured hoods to match the paint.

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Obligatory new bike day photo, with modified seat height

tarlibone
Aug 1, 2014

it's in the mighty hands of steel
Fun Shoe

Hadlock posted:

Obligatory new bike day photo, with modified seat height



I love this. Makes me wish I'd gone with the 4130 Road instead the the single-speed. But... am I missing something here? Unless I'm misidentifying something, I see a front derailleur, but only one downtube shifter. Where's the other one?

Great-looking bike.

Literally Lewis Hamilton
Feb 22, 2005



It’s just in line with the downtube

Oldsrocket_27
Apr 28, 2009
Please don't convert that to Sora.

Bike is sweet either way, but if it really is in great factory condition why try to fix what isn't broken for a town bike?

Pittsburgh Fentanyl Cloud
Apr 7, 2003


Downtube shifters are passe, I'm gonna invent seat tube shifters.

skul-gun
Dec 24, 2001
I got this account for Xmas.

Pittsburgh Fentanyl Cloud posted:

Downtube shifters are passe, I'm gonna invent seat tube shifters.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MuYBJyWKNYY

edit:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GNV71kFc1mA

skul-gun fucked around with this message at 05:18 on May 4, 2023

Ihmemies
Oct 6, 2012

Hadlock posted:

126 vs 130mm rear axle spacing is not a huge problem if you have a spoke wrench. I converted my 12 speed motor bacon to a 16 speed claris a long time ago, only needed to adjust the dish of the wheel by half a cm or so

You can also expand the dropouts by 4mm with a 1,5 to 2m long 2x4” and a piece of string.

After doing that dropout alignment tool FFG-2 is also useful. https://www.parktool.com/en-us/product/frame-and-fork-end-alignment-gauge-set-ffg-2

This works only on steel frames.

TobinHatesYou
Aug 14, 2007

wacky cycling inflatable
tube man

:shuckyes:

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Ihmemies posted:

This works only on steel frames.

Steel is real

Angryhead
Apr 4, 2009

Don't call my name
Don't call my name
Alejandro






Apropos of nothing: the sweetest gift I've ever gotten is this painting by my mom (approx. A4), of the ride where I celebrated hitting 10k km last year :)

e.pilot
Nov 20, 2011

sometimes maybe good
sometimes maybe shit

Angryhead posted:



Apropos of nothing: the sweetest gift I've ever gotten is this painting by my mom (approx. A4), of the ride where I celebrated hitting 10k km last year :)

:3:

tildes
Nov 16, 2018

Angryhead posted:



Apropos of nothing: the sweetest gift I've ever gotten is this painting by my mom (approx. A4), of the ride where I celebrated hitting 10k km last year :)

Frankly rude that you didn’t feel you had to censor your head in the painting to conceal your identity

(Also that is incredibly sweet!! I love)

tarlibone
Aug 1, 2014

it's in the mighty hands of steel
Fun Shoe

Angryhead posted:



Apropos of nothing: the sweetest gift I've ever gotten is this painting by my mom (approx. A4), of the ride where I celebrated hitting 10k km last year :)

That's a great accomplishment, and a wonderful sentiment.

But,

tildes posted:

Frankly rude that you didn’t feel you had to censor your head in the painting to conceal your identity

... they're not wrong, here. I whipped this out in a couple minutes on GIMP. It's... attached, I hope.

Only registered members can see post attachments!

Ihmemies
Oct 6, 2012

Spokes were delivered, so I built the front wheel. Rear wheel tomorrow.

I also tested the new 11spd derailerus. Now the bicycle is finally ruined. Black pedals, black deraileurs, black quick releases....







Ihmemies fucked around with this message at 20:31 on May 4, 2023

tildes
Nov 16, 2018

tarlibone posted:

That's a great accomplishment, and a wonderful sentiment.

But,

... they're not wrong, here. I whipped this out in a couple minutes on GIMP. It's... attached, I hope.



I love this

Angryhead
Apr 4, 2009

Don't call my name
Don't call my name
Alejandro




tildes posted:

Frankly rude that you didn’t feel you had to censor your head in the painting to conceal your identity

(Also that is incredibly sweet!! I love)

tarlibone posted:

That's a great accomplishment, and a wonderful sentiment.

But,

... they're not wrong, here. I whipped this out in a couple minutes on GIMP. It's... attached, I hope.


lol and thank you all, sorry for being rude :allears:

brand engager
Mar 23, 2011

I got some spd pedals + shoes, practiced in my living room for a while and dropped the tension to the lowest setting

tarlibone
Aug 1, 2014

it's in the mighty hands of steel
Fun Shoe

brand engager posted:

I got some spd pedals + shoes, practiced in my living room for a while and dropped the tension to the lowest setting

Good luck! Love my PD-EH500's. They stayed on my feet all the way to the pavement.

Speaking of which, I am finally healed enough to do some household chores without wincing in pain. Showered up, prepped supper, cooked it, and even did the dishes now that the cuts and skinned-up spots on my hands are a little better. The abrasions are getting some air finally, and the lovely yellow-green bruises are blooming on my leg, shoulder, and two opposite corners of my hand. It's much easier to use my pinky now.

I'm kind-of glad that the weather is going to be miserable this weekend.

dreesemonkey
May 14, 2008
Pillbug
Can anyone recommend an inexpensive bike seat that has an above average amount of fore/aft adjustment?

I bought a used road bike last season and I think it's slightly too large for me. I have the seat is as far forward as it will go and I think it could stand to go a bit further forward.

It's a better bike than my older road bike component-wise (105 11spd vs sora/tiagra 9spd, better gearing for climbing) but I still feel more at home on the crappier bike and I think sitting further forward would help. The newer bike is not unrideable by any means, I just feel less efficient pedaling.

In another year or two I can probably pass down the "new" bike to my son, and then I'll buy something new/properly sized. But for now I'd just like to try and get it slightly closer.

MrL_JaKiri
Sep 23, 2003

A bracing glass of carrot juice!
It's unlikely to be down to the size of the frame directly. Seat tube angles tend to be very similar through a lineup, generally changing by half a degree at most between sizes but more often being static.

There is some variation between manufacturers as to the exact seat tube angle, so it could be that - but they're all basically in the same ballpark, even between endurance and race frames.

If you've got a setback seatpost on this one and a non-setback seatpost on the other one that could be causing it, but there's a bunch of reasons why the fit could be feeling different.

Do you have the details of the bikes (sizes, make, year ideally), as looking up geometries could help to point you in the right direction.

wooger
Apr 16, 2005

YOU RESENT?

dreesemonkey posted:

Can anyone recommend an inexpensive bike seat that has an above average amount of fore/aft adjustment?

I bought a used road bike last season and I think it's slightly too large for me. I have the seat is as far forward as it will go and I think it could stand to go a bit further forward.

It's a better bike than my older road bike component-wise (105 11spd vs sora/tiagra 9spd, better gearing for climbing) but I still feel more at home on the crappier bike and I think sitting further forward would help. The newer bike is not unrideable by any means, I just feel less efficient pedaling.

In another year or two I can probably pass down the "new" bike to my son, and then I'll buy something new/properly sized. But for now I'd just like to try and get it slightly closer.

What size, and how tall are you? If it’s way off, better to sell the bike and buy a used one that’s the right size. You may even break even.

It’s never a good idea to adjust for reach by moving a saddle forwards; your saddle position should only vary compared to the bottom bracket/pedals, and needs to be right for comfort and efficiency and knee health.

A few things you can do for pretty cheap if the bike is just a little bit big in reach;

Free:
1: Flip the stem to a positive angle if you haven’t already.
2: Pull the hood rubber back, loosen the shifter clamp and move the shifter back on the bars so they’re a little bit closer to you. Angle will change a bit.
3: buy a shorter or more positive angled stem to move the bars closer to you ($40 max). Don’t go below 80mm or the bike will be twitchy.
4: Swap the handlebars to narrower ones. I’d suggest 40cm if you’re an average sized man, 38 if you’re at all small in stature, 36cm for women, if not smaller. . Should cost $40 or $50 max. I like FSA Omega bars for cheap solid ones with a compact reach and drop, but there are infinite options.

#4 should be explained to everyone buying a bike, nearly every road bike sold comes with crazy wide bars, which fit hardly anyone and make the reach longer. I can no longer hire bikes on holiday due to this.

To answer your actual question though:

The saddles wolith the longest rails I’ve seen are Selle SMP. They’re an acquired taste though and not cheap.

The solution to moving your saddle for thee forward might be easier to solve with your seatpost. Does your current seatpost have setback (clamp some distance behind the line of the post)? If it does, get a zero offset seatpost for an instant move of up to 20mm forwards.

Also, some setback seatposts are OK to turn 108 degrees backwards, offsetting forwards. That would give you a big move forward, and all you need to do is remount the saddle. Take a photo of the saddle and seatpost and we can advise.

dreesemonkey
May 14, 2008
Pillbug

wooger posted:

Good info

Oh wow, thanks for the replies. General info:

Dumb rider: 5' 7" (~170cm)
Old: Scott S40 - Unsure of year or size - Couldn't find a product sticker
Newer: Specialized Alliez 54cm - Unsure of year, the product sticker is worn off where it rests on my bike rack.

I found some pictures from last year when I was trying to figure this out (keep in mind I know nothing).

S40:


Allez:


Also found some relative measurements I took:

The two that stuck out at me were when measuring from the crank center to the seat post/front of the seat. You can maybe see in the bike pictures I have a laser level set up so I can try and measure things relative to the crank. I swapped seats to the old geriatric man gel set to the Allez because I could get it further forward. I have it set up like this still and it did make a difference in the right direction! I maxed out the seat and I've been running it since.

Seatpost flip - I'm not sure if this would be possible or not. Not sure if this is a good enough picture


Zero offeset seatpost - I think this would definitely satisfy my curiosity! I think something like this would work (assuming I can't flip my post)? https://www.amazon.com/BUCKLOS-Aluminum-Seatpost-Adjustable-Ultra-Light/dp/B09LR1XJNV/ (the 27.2 350mm one)? The seatpost angle between the two bikes looks significantly different and explains my concern, I think!

Flipping the stem - Eyeballing it, I think this would also work (raising the bars up slightly) and would be appreciated.

wooger
Apr 16, 2005

YOU RESENT?

dreesemonkey posted:

The seatpost angle between the two bikes looks significantly different and explains my concern, I think!

You have a zero setback seatpost already fwiw.
54cm is definitely too big for you.

Try adjusting the front end rather than moving the saddle. Going down to 38cm bars and with a flipped stem will reduce the effective reach a bunch straight away.

You have two very different saddles, hard to compare, but at the very least measuring from the top is very inconsistent, try to find the point where they reach 80mm wide and measure from there for comparisons.

I really don’t suggest buying anything bike related from Amazon, it’s full of fakes and junk.

dreesemonkey
May 14, 2008
Pillbug

wooger posted:

You have a zero setback seatpost already fwiw.
54cm is definitely too big for you.

Try adjusting the front end rather than moving the saddle. Going down to 38cm bars and with a flipped stem will reduce the effective reach a bunch straight away.

You have two very different saddles, hard to compare, but at the very least measuring from the top is very inconsistent, try to find the point where they reach 80mm wide and measure from there for comparisons.

I really don’t suggest buying anything bike related from Amazon, it’s full of fakes and junk.

It's probably the crappy picture, but I do think the seatpost is offset. Not my picture, but the mount/rotatey bit are behind the seat post


So I did end up rotating the seat post and also flipping the stem. I took it on a ride and I think the results were promising. I need to re-tweak the seat fore/aft and seatheight, my bar mount angle needs adjusted, but it was a good start.

Could be within the margin of error, but I rode the same route 2 weeks ago and today I averaged .4 mph higher over a 1:10 ride with no starva PRs (technically, one 3rd best time on a .5 mile section) and similar average HR. So that would tell me that I was slightly faster everywhere. Again, could be placebo or "I feel faster" or just generally better energy levels, but it was my best average speed of the season thus far without consciously trying for it (and I'm slow anyway so any change could be big).

I think it was worth the try, I'm happy with the results so far.

Salt Fish
Sep 11, 2003

Cybernetic Crumb


more adapters please

EvilJoven
Mar 18, 2005

NOBODY,IN THE HISTORY OF EVER, HAS ASKED OR CARED WHAT CANADA THINKS. YOU ARE NOT A COUNTRY. YOUR MONEY HAS THE QUEEN OF ENGLAND ON IT. IF YOU DIG AROUND IN YOUR BACKYARD, NATIVE SKELETONS WOULD EXPLODE OUT OF YOUR LAWN LIKE THE END OF POLTERGEIST. CANADA IS SO POLITE, EH?
Fun Shoe

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TobinHatesYou
Aug 14, 2007

wacky cycling inflatable
tube man

dreesemonkey posted:

It's probably the crappy picture, but I do think the seatpost is offset. Not my picture, but the mount/rotatey bit are behind the seat post

Yes. It’s a 12mm offset seatpost. At 5’7” if you have average proportions, you can probably make a 54cm Allez non-Sprint work for you. My guess is that your saddle fore-aft does not need to be put even more forward unless you are trying to achieve an aggressive fit. A combination of reach and leg extension is making the bike feel big, so you might want to lower your saddle and try a shorter stem (or flip it.) Lowering the saddle also moves it forward relative to the bottom bracket.

Worst case is you turn the seatpost 180deg so the -12mm offset becomes +12mm.

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