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The Locator
Sep 12, 2004

Out here, everything hurts.





The Real Amethyst posted:

It's official, I have my little boat in the water! It's only a 3.7m (12ft) RIB with 20hp 4 stroke but boy am I having a lot of fun.
I've been zooming up and down the estuary the past few days. Today I ran into some difficulty because high tide was 1 meter lower than tuesdays high so on the way back I wasn't able to get to my spot due to mud. Thankfully all the local old salty fishermen were eager to help me maneuver to a safer spot while cracking jokes. :)

This river is tough, it has a 4kt current and cargo ships so I am kinda nervous at times. I really suck at mooring and using ropes :shrug:

Here's a pic I took at low tide (before I had a stern rope).


video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fz0NPMPGS2M

Looks like a lot of fun. Personally I would definitely be wearing a good PFD zooming around on a small boat on a river with that kind of current and cargo ships, because I'm old and out of shape and probably float like a brick.

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Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006

Kind of in a dilemma with what battery to get for my new motor, want to stay as small and light as possible, and Suzuki requires either 330 CCA or 35 AH.

Not sure which is more important CCA or AH , but then I see guys using motorcycle batteries under both those with no issues and I'm wondering what the hell?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5zR8NyvpBBE

In the video he shows the required CCA but then is using a motorcycle battery with half the CCAs and it seems to be fine. Am I missing something here?

I mean the motor will charge the battery while running so would it be fine then?

n0tqu1tesane
May 7, 2003

She was rubbing her ass all over my hands. They don't just do that for everyone.
Grimey Drawer
It really depends on what you'll be doing with your boat. If your usage pattern always involves enough time running after starting to fully recharge a smaller battery, you'd probably be fine.

If you're drift fishing, with a lot of restarts to reposition, then killing the engine, you'll want a bigger battery.

Or, if you're out on the boat at night, you'll want a battery big enough to run your navigation lights/anchor light even if your boat is off. Of course, with modern LED lighting, this is less an issue that it was in the past, but still a consideration.

Also, it's a LOT less of an issue if you've got a pull start, since at that point you can treat the electric start as a convenience instead of the only way to start your outboard.

Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006

It does have pull start as well. It also has power tilt which I'd be using quite a bit too, but I'm not sure exactly how much power the tilt motor draws. I can't imagine it would draw more power than turning over the motor. No night fishing or anything using lights, would hook up an automatic bilge to it as well and that's about it. I have a lithium battery for the trolling motor.

We do lots of inshore fishing, moving around from spot to spot, but tend to run a decent amount between spots. I guess it would depend on how fast the motor can actually charge the battery. I guess i could try it out, worst case if it doesn't work out I could return the battery and get a bigger one.

I was originally looking at a few different AGMs that fit the requirements, 20 pounds is the about the average weight for those but I'd like to stay smaller and lighter if i can, it's only for a 14' skiff and less is more in that situation.

MrYenko
Jun 18, 2012

#2 isn't ALWAYS bad...

Think of CCA as "This thing has big beefy internal connections and can provide a ton of juice at the terminals to turn a really big motor even when its cold outside" and think of AH as "those big beefy internal connections are attached to a bag full of electricity that is ___AH big."

Neither of those things is entirely correct, but it gets you in the ballpark. A marine deep-cycle battery traditionally has more AH than what a road vehicle battery of the same CCH rating would have, on the assumption that you're running minor hotel loads on it for long periods, or using it to run a trolling motor, etc etc.

Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006

Yeah I already have a nice Dakota lithium 12v 54ah for the trolling motor up on the bow, so all I need is another battery just to start and tilt the motor, and power a small bilge if needed.

I'm tempted to go the route in the video.

Cat Hatter
Oct 24, 2006

Hatters gonna hat.

MrYenko posted:

Think of CCA as "This thing has big beefy internal connections and can provide a ton of juice at the terminals to turn a really big motor even when its cold outside" and think of AH as "those big beefy internal connections are attached to a bag full of electricity that is ___AH big."

Neither of those things is entirely correct, but it gets you in the ballpark. A marine deep-cycle battery traditionally has more AH than what a road vehicle battery of the same CCH rating would have, on the assumption that you're running minor hotel loads on it for long periods, or using it to run a trolling motor, etc etc.

All this is true and I think car batteries also get their CCA rating by having more sponge-like plates for better surface area in the same size battery, but most cars tend to not go off sick jumps as often as a boat will go speeding over waves so the marine battery will have solid plates and will need more plate, and therefore capacity, to get to the same CCA.

... Aside from what you said about cars tending to not sit with the power going unless you're at make out point out something.

Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006

Well I was just informed on the skiff forum I post in that using half the CCA might work ok to turn over the motor but it also stresses out the coils and starter and could be a fire hazard by overheating the wires. Not to mention voiding the warranty, I'm assuming the ECU would have the info whenever a tech plugs in their laptop. It's a 5 year warranty so I don't wanna screw that up.

So really not worth it to save a couple of pounds. I'll just go with an AGM.

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

A deep cycle battery is designed to run the radio and VHF marine radio, nav computer and running lights for hours and hours or even days without being charged, typically down to 25% and won't hurt the battery. As an analogy, like if you were to take your cell phone on a long hike, the battery in your phone is the primary power supply and needs to last a long time and you plan on running it down to 5% or even 0% on occasion

The "regular" cheap battery in a Toyota Corolla with a tape deck and headlights, the battery exists to start the engine and then 30-45 seconds later the alternator kicks on and charges the battery + powers all the electronics. It's basically useless weight except if you're sitting at a stop light or stuck in rush hour traffic for long, long periods of time 15+ minutes. The only time it will discharge below 85% is if you leave your headlights on overnight. If you discharge this battery below 50% you'll permanently damage it and it's capacity . You can run a car battery down to 0% 2-3 times and then it's lost roughly half it's capacity. As an analogy this is more like a cell phone plugged into the wall, the battery is there but it's not important and only used if the alternator power goes out, and even then only for a short period of time

AGM are awesome battery technology for boats, almost as good as lifepo4 lithium, and about half the price. Lifepo4 is awesome because if you run it down to 20% you can get literally thousands of cycles out of it, and the chemistry is stable and the battery can survive many more years

Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006

Yeah after looking around I can get a lithium equivalent to the AGM I was gonna get for $100 more with a 3 year replacement warranty from Batteries Plus.

AGM:

https://www.batteriesplus.com/produ...m_term=CYL10007

Lithium:

https://www.batteriesplus.com/productdetails/battery/personal-watercraft/cyl10072

At a fraction of the weight too, might just go that route since I already have a lithium for the trolling motor as well. Wanna keep it light like a Miata lol.

Applebees Appetizer fucked around with this message at 20:42 on May 1, 2023

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

The lithium battery is actually $50 ($249 vs $310) cheaper unless you already have an old battery you can trade in to avoid the core charge

Lifepo4 is the superior battery if you have the budget and charging equipment for it

Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006

The core charge is only $10, the $156 is the total plus the core charge for the AGM. Still, the lithium is the much better deal I think.

I have a charger that came with my 12v Dakota lithium, I'm assuming that would work for this one as well? I should probably contact Dakota to make sure.

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Give them a ring and get some value out of what you paid for that battery yeah. Almost certainly shouldn't be an issue as they're both lifepo4 chemistry; good chance the cells came out of the same factory even.

Wibla
Feb 16, 2011

I'm getting a 200A BMS for my 105Ah cells, hopefully I can get some use out of that battery this season.

Collateral Damage
Jun 13, 2009

Imagine losing your rudder and an 18th century sailing ship answers your distress call :v:

The Locator
Sep 12, 2004

Out here, everything hurts.






That's awesome, thanks for the link.

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

I read that as well, this part perplexed me,

quote:

We were perplexed by the size difference between our two boats, as we feared being towed by a boat that was too large and at too fast a speed that could damage our boat.

Like, your rudder fell off, you're in the middle of the ocean with no way home and... What? You're worried you're gonna scratch your boat? Or what. If the cleat on the bow pulls through, you should have never left the dock. People just can't fathom how tough the hull of your boat is. It's not uncommon in coastal rescues, for the coast guard to pull someone off a boat, and then the crew will return during a calmer weather window by speed boat with replacement parts and sail the boat home

Hadlock fucked around with this message at 18:57 on May 6, 2023

The Real Amethyst
Apr 20, 2018

When no one was looking, Serval took forty Japari buns. She took 40 buns. That's as many as four tens. And that's terrible.
How much water/bilge is normal to get into a RIB? I estimated about 1/4 to 1/2 a gallon collecting at the stern when I was powering up and the bow was rising. I open my bilge plug at full speed and it drains out about but upon closing the plug and slowing I notice some more seeping in. Doesn't seem to effect performance and at low tide most of drains out but I'm slightly concerned. I don't have an electronic bilge pump.
More pics from today :downs:


TheFluff
Dec 13, 2006

FRIENDS, LISTEN TO ME
I AM A SEAGULL
OF WEALTH AND TASTE
Every spring I'm annoyed that the Whale AquaSource in-line drinking water filters are like 50€. Sure it's activated carbon, yada yada, and they do work really well, but if you look at replacement filters for systems that do similar things but not on boats those are like 1/4th the price or less. Unfortunately I don't have a convenient space to just mount a standard 10" water filter housing; it pretty much has to be in-line.

However, I discovered that some American fridges with built-in ice makers or water chillers or something have integrated water filters, and some of those are basically the same form factor as the Whale in-line filters. Only problem is they don't fit my 1/2" hoses and hose clamps; the fridge filters want 1/4" LLDPE tubing with some weird push-through fittings and plastic clips and whatnot. Those fridges (and their replacement filters) aren't common here either (few people would even consider the bizarre idea of trying to filter the tap water - there's nothing to improve there), but after perusing some Amazon storefronts and poking through various machine translated listings of Chinese plastic pipe fittings of dubious quality, I found some parts I think will work, so a conversion to fridge filters is happening this spring. Total cost of the plumbing and a two-pack of off-brand replacement filters came out to about 45€ so if this works I'm already ahead. I don't even need to buy weird off-brand filters to stay ahead either, a three-pack of Samsung's OEM filters is the same price as one of the Whale ones.

yeah I'm real cheap and making a post about saving like :20bux::20bux: a year, what about it :colbert:

TheFluff fucked around with this message at 02:45 on May 7, 2023

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

The Real Amethyst posted:

How much water/bilge is normal to get into a RIB? I estimated about 1/4 to 1/2 a gallon collecting at the stern when I was powering up and the bow was rising. I open my bilge plug at full speed and it drains out about but upon closing the plug and slowing I notice some more seeping in. Doesn't seem to effect performance and at low tide most of drains out but I'm slightly concerned. I don't have an electronic bilge pump.


Should be zero, maximum 1oz per hours. That's not a leak you're sinking

Nitrousoxide
May 30, 2011

do not buy a oneplus phone



Hadlock posted:

That's not a leak you're sinking

This is good thread title material

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!
Finally picked up my new money pit water whip.
When I pulled in to the parking lot, I saw it sitting there and was all like, 'holy gently caress its huge, do I really tow that with this thing'?
It wasn't that bad though. I think the whole package is like 2300 pounds. It had a significant effect on my acceleration, but other than that it went off without a hitch. Its been a while since I've towed anything, but I remembered what to do. Only had to pull forward to correct once when I was backing up to the ramp.

Got it back to town after a three-ish hour drive, traffic on the 401wasn't too bad. Took it to work and loaded some of my poo poo in it that I'd been collecting over the last several weeks. Dock lines, various safety equipment, etc... A guy from work helped me launch it and we idled it to my dock(no wake zone). Gotta adimt I was nervous as gently caress, I didn't realize how far forward the throttle handle had to be moved just to bring the engine up from idle, and then to engage forward and reverse etc.....

After that I put the cover on and tied it up, or tied it up and then covered it, whatever. Going to take it out tomorrow for a few hours. There is a break in procedure that needs to be done and I'd like to have that mostly done before the boat safety guy shows up on Friday. If I prove myself to be competent enough to pass, I might get a discount on my insurance, and also hopefully learn some poo poo too.

Bling bling MFs.



sharkytm
Oct 9, 2003

Ba

By

Sharkytm doot doo do doot do doo


Fallen Rib

wesleywillis posted:

Finally picked up my new money pit water whip.
When I pulled in to the parking lot, I saw it sitting there and was all like, 'holy gently caress its huge, do I really tow that with this thing'?
It wasn't that bad though. I think the whole package is like 2300 pounds. It had a significant effect on my acceleration, but other than that it went off without a hitch. Its been a while since I've towed anything, but I remembered what to do. Only had to pull forward to correct once when I was backing up to the ramp.

Got it back to town after a three-ish hour drive, traffic on the 401wasn't too bad. Took it to work and loaded some of my poo poo in it that I'd been collecting over the last several weeks. Dock lines, various safety equipment, etc... A guy from work helped me launch it and we idled it to my dock(no wake zone). Gotta adimt I was nervous as gently caress, I didn't realize how far forward the throttle handle had to be moved just to bring the engine up from idle, and then to engage forward and reverse etc.....

After that I put the cover on and tied it up, or tied it up and then covered it, whatever. Going to take it out tomorrow for a few hours. There is a break in procedure that needs to be done and I'd like to have that mostly done before the boat safety guy shows up on Friday. If I prove myself to be competent enough to pass, I might get a discount on my insurance, and also hopefully learn some poo poo too.

Bling bling MFs.





Nice boat. Aluminum sheet metal boats like that are pretty light. The biggest thing to remember is that there's no brakes on boats (not counting crash astern). Take it slow, learn your area, and practice slow speed maneuvering to learn how to tie up without hitting the dock or other boats. The higher speed stuff will come with time, you'll have to learn how your boat handles at speed and how engine trim and sea conditions change that. Bon voyage, and enjoy your hole in the water.

The Real Amethyst
Apr 20, 2018

When no one was looking, Serval took forty Japari buns. She took 40 buns. That's as many as four tens. And that's terrible.

Hadlock posted:

Should be zero, maximum 1oz per hours. That's not a leak you're sinking

Nitrousoxide posted:

This is good thread title material

:( :ohdear:

Kesper North
Nov 3, 2011

EMERGENCY POWER TO PARTY

Hadlock posted:

That's not a leak you're sinking

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!

sharkytm posted:

Nice boat. Aluminum sheet metal boats like that are pretty light. The biggest thing to remember is that there's no brakes on boats (not counting crash astern). Take it slow, learn your area, and practice slow speed maneuvering to learn how to tie up without hitting the dock or other boats. The higher speed stuff will come with time, you'll have to learn how your boat handles at speed and how engine trim and sea conditions change that. Bon voyage, and enjoy your hole in the water.

Thanks, took it out today on Lake Ontario. It went well except for getting soaked. I idled out of the harbor in to the lake and then tried to follow Mercury's break in procedure for the "first 2 hours". Varying throttle, short bursts of full throttle etc. The lake wasn't too bad, a bit of swells but overall probably fine.

Then it started to rain and I figured gently caress it, its not raining that bad. I'm sure theres some sort of sciency poo poo to explain it, but going against the wind/swells I didn't get that wet aside from the rain, but when I turned around to head back, I got splashed like a motherfucker. It was cold too. After getting soaked, I finally put the top up and of course thats when things stopped splashing as much. Maybe I was just driving slower. Idled back in to the dock and successfully tied up on my own. Its still early in the season so I have no idea if there'll be more boats there later on but its a really long dock with spots on both sides. Thus far I'm the only one on my side, so lots of room to gently caress up learn some maneuvering skills.

Put everything away wet. I know thats not good, even though its a boat. Its supposed to be nice tomorrow and I have the day off. Once I get a couple things done, I'll probably go to the dock, take the cover off, put the top up and get some things dried out. Also program some radio stations, figure out a bit more with the fish finders etc..

Overall a successful maiden voyage. And as I jokingly mentioned to some random goon months ago, the first full song I listened to was The Wreck Of The Edmund Fitzgerald.

Elmnt80
Dec 30, 2012


wesleywillis posted:

Finally picked up my new money pit water whip.
When I pulled in to the parking lot, I saw it sitting there and was all like, 'holy gently caress its huge, do I really tow that with this thing'?
It wasn't that bad though. I think the whole package is like 2300 pounds. It had a significant effect on my acceleration, but other than that it went off without a hitch. Its been a while since I've towed anything, but I remembered what to do. Only had to pull forward to correct once when I was backing up to the ramp.

Got it back to town after a three-ish hour drive, traffic on the 401wasn't too bad. Took it to work and loaded some of my poo poo in it that I'd been collecting over the last several weeks. Dock lines, various safety equipment, etc... A guy from work helped me launch it and we idled it to my dock(no wake zone). Gotta adimt I was nervous as gently caress, I didn't realize how far forward the throttle handle had to be moved just to bring the engine up from idle, and then to engage forward and reverse etc.....

After that I put the cover on and tied it up, or tied it up and then covered it, whatever. Going to take it out tomorrow for a few hours. There is a break in procedure that needs to be done and I'd like to have that mostly done before the boat safety guy shows up on Friday. If I prove myself to be competent enough to pass, I might get a discount on my insurance, and also hopefully learn some poo poo too.

Bling bling MFs.





Don't store the boat with the engine down like that. Always trim it up so that at minimum the prop and the water inlets are out of the water. This is more for long term and saltwater useage, but it's still good practice.

Applebees Appetizer posted:

Well I was just informed on the skiff forum I post in that using half the CCA might work ok to turn over the motor but it also stresses out the coils and starter and could be a fire hazard by overheating the wires. Not to mention voiding the warranty, I'm assuming the ECU would have the info whenever a tech plugs in their laptop. It's a 5 year warranty so I don't wanna screw that up.

So really not worth it to save a couple of pounds. I'll just go with an AGM.

I've played with the suzuki diagnostic program, it doesn't know poo poo about the battery. The tech will find out when he looks at the battery to see if it's involved in the weird electrical issues. Also, I'd check with your local suzuki dealer, I don't think they have a lithium battery approved for use with their motors yet.

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!

Elmnt80 posted:

Don't store the boat with the engine down like that. Always trim it up so that at minimum the prop and the water inlets are out of the water. This is more for long term and saltwater useage, but it's still good practice.
Thanks for the tip. I was thinking that might be a good idea. I figured maybe algae would clog up the water intakes or some poo poo.

Took a trip down to the dock today, it's nice and warm and the cover is black I put my hand under it before I took it off and it was like a sauna.
Took the cover off and opened everything up and was able to dry things out for an hour or so. Ran the bilge pump too, must've dumped like 5 gallons over the side.

Lesson learned, run the bilge pump after every trip.

Elmnt80
Dec 30, 2012


If your boat is going to be tied up and stored on the water, you really need a house battery with the bilge pump tied to it and a float switch to trigger it. Ask me how often I see boats sunk on a lift/trailer/slip. :haw:

This also means checking on the boat after big rain storms, etc to make sure that the bilge pump hasn't run down the battery and it doesn't need to be charged back up.

Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006

Elmnt80 posted:

I've played with the suzuki diagnostic program, it doesn't know poo poo about the battery. The tech will find out when he looks at the battery to see if it's involved in the weird electrical issues. Also, I'd check with your local suzuki dealer, I don't think they have a lithium battery approved for use with their motors yet.

Well I found a "powersports" lithium battery (3 lbs!) sold by Batteries Plus with 440 CCA's so I got that. I figured if it can turn over a motorcycle or jet ski motor it can handle a 20hp boat motor just fine. It works great for the power tilt so far, haven't tried turning the motor over yet but i'm gonna do that once I'm ready to break it in.

Anyway, sold the Abaco Panga I posted about buying recently earlier in the thread, it didn't work out for us unfortunately. It was a really nice boat and handled chop like a dream but was just too small and didn't fish nearly as well as our Rabco at a third of the cost so I had to let it go. Broke even so no biggie.

And for progress content, finally got the jack plate installed and the motor put on the Rabco.

Mocked up first. Measure two and three times before drilling holes in the transom once LOL



I centered the plate to the transom, not the drain plug, which as you can clearly see is NOT centered. Quality Rabco craftsmanship!



Bolted up and ready to rock



Ordered transom washers from Bob's Machine to distribute the load. Sealed up with 5200 4200.



Motor mounted up, fits great, the rise is actually much better for the tiller height while standing.



The motor's manual states to mount it with the cavitation plate one inch below the keel, and it turned out just slightly over an inch so I'm golden. The jack plate is maxed out at full height but it worked!

Applebees Appetizer fucked around with this message at 21:06 on May 8, 2023

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!

Elmnt80 posted:

If your boat is going to be tied up and stored on the water, you really need a house battery with the bilge pump tied to it and a float switch to trigger it. Ask me how often I see boats sunk on a lift/trailer/slip. :haw:

This also means checking on the boat after big rain storms, etc to make sure that the bilge pump hasn't run down the battery and it doesn't need to be charged back up.

More knowledge. Thanks!
I bet you see that frequently and its been on my mind.
My parents used to have an RV trailer up north, and every year one or two of the boats at the docks would sink because of that. People aren't there all the time, sometimes they aren't there for weeks, they get a week of rain bilge pump may or may not work, or the battery dies and the boat sinks.

This thing is supposed to have an automatic bilge pump thats always on (assuming sufficient battery charge obv.). I should probably verify its proper function.
Perhaps it needs to have the float adjusted or something.

Also, I don't know if it was *actually* 5 gallons, but when I turned it on, there seemed to be a pretty decent stream coming out for a few minutes. But I don't know the capacity of the pump, so I don't really know for sure. It just seemed like it. I did splash a shitload of water in the boat plus the rain yesterday.

I'd imagine that the cover will keep a lot of water out of the boat, but I think I'm smart enough to know not to rely on it.

TheFluff
Dec 13, 2006

FRIENDS, LISTEN TO ME
I AM A SEAGULL
OF WEALTH AND TASTE
engine is blazin' it a bit harder than I'm used to, might be time for injector service :effort:
local graybeards are saying "it's fine, typical volvo penta" but I really don't remember it smoking this much? it is cold though and the water is also cold, that probably doesn't help

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uo2u9XevkVM

Elmnt80
Dec 30, 2012


wesleywillis posted:

More knowledge. Thanks!
I bet you see that frequently and its been on my mind.
My parents used to have an RV trailer up north, and every year one or two of the boats at the docks would sink because of that. People aren't there all the time, sometimes they aren't there for weeks, they get a week of rain bilge pump may or may not work, or the battery dies and the boat sinks.

This thing is supposed to have an automatic bilge pump thats always on (assuming sufficient battery charge obv.). I should probably verify its proper function.
Perhaps it needs to have the float adjusted or something.

Also, I don't know if it was *actually* 5 gallons, but when I turned it on, there seemed to be a pretty decent stream coming out for a few minutes. But I don't know the capacity of the pump, so I don't really know for sure. It just seemed like it. I did splash a shitload of water in the boat plus the rain yesterday.

I'd imagine that the cover will keep a lot of water out of the boat, but I think I'm smart enough to know not to rely on it.

It may be wired to switched power because... well... Most boat builders are loving stupid as poo poo. It may also be a cheapass float switch like a johnson pump one. Have them look at it under warranty and if need be, throw a rule 37A at it.

Elmnt80
Dec 30, 2012


Nitrousoxide posted:

This is good thread title material

:hmmyes:

Cat Hatter
Oct 24, 2006

Hatters gonna hat.

Hadlock posted:

Should be zero, maximum 1oz per hours. That's not a leak you're sinking

Is this true for inflatable boats? I could see lack of water tightness as a feature with a boat that can't sink unless it deflates since it can't fill with water. Obviously, I have no idea either way.

Love the thread title BTW.

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Yeah for an inflatable it's not absolutely critical, but as a matter of best practices/good seamanship you should track it down and get it fixed. All boats leak but I agree with the (second) thread title I coined, that's beyond an allowable amount. A well designed boat like a RIB, in good weather, water that splashes in ought to evaporate out about as fast as it goes in. That said, even the driest best boat will inevitably have 6-8oz of water sloshing around the bottom. But not half a gallon after an hour

Elmnt80
Dec 30, 2012


I mean, a solid 3/5ths of this threads titles have been about sinking. Its a bit of a theme here. :v:

Big Taint
Oct 19, 2003

All boats are sinking, some a little faster than others.

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!
Is it dumb idea to pull the bilge plug on my boat to see if the automatic bilge pump is functioning properly? I'll have a spare plug in my hand in case I drop it, and also the one thats in there is attached by a wire. So it *probably* won't fall out of reach if I drop it.


Speaking of leaks and sinking.

wesleywillis fucked around with this message at 13:28 on May 10, 2023

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TheFluff
Dec 13, 2006

FRIENDS, LISTEN TO ME
I AM A SEAGULL
OF WEALTH AND TASTE

wesleywillis posted:

Is it dumb idea to pull the bilge plug on my boat to see if the automatic bilge pump is functioning properly? I'll have a spare plug in my hand in case I drop it, and also the one thats in there is attached by a wire. So it *probably* won't fall out of reach if I drop it.


Speaking of leaks and sinking.

I mean, you'll probably be okay, but it seems unnecessarily exciting to me. Why not just dump a couple of buckets of water into the bilge?

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