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Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



REMEMBER SPONGE MONKEYS posted:

Stupid question from my tired brain: would the best way to have bumper stickers without worrying about later removal be to simply lay down a bit of vinyl (or something) and stick it on top?

Magnets. Stick the stickers to those flat cheap magnet sheets and cut em out.

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Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

mobby_6kl posted:

I found a replacement regulator for my Fit's OEM alternator and thought I'd get it working again in case the parts store replacement shits itself. Physically replacing it seems like would be just a matter of unsoldering it from the diode pack. But the product page had this helpful pinout chart, which gave me the idea that I should test it to make sure it's actually working, before relying on it for anything.



Are these somehow standardized? I get that the PWM signal is supposed to control output voltage, but what's the frequency and voltage? Is "ignition" just +12v? What the hell is "Lamp"? :)

i don't think there is any standardization for what the voltage and frequency of the PWM signal is. it's whatever is convenient in the ecu. all you can really count on is more duty cycle = more output. if you're dead set on this, your best bet would be to measure your working one, if there's no info online.

ignition is just 12V as a power-on signal (and maybe field energization). lamp is for the "GEN" (or "ALT" on newer stuff, i guess) light on the dash.

older stuff will use that dash light for the field, but sometimes the ign wire is used. on gm stuff, you use one or the other, not both, iirc. dunno about honda

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

REMEMBER SPONGE MONKEYS posted:

Stupid question from my tired brain: would the best way to have bumper stickers without worrying about later removal be to simply lay down a bit of vinyl (or something) and stick it on top?

Stick them on your back window instead of the bumper. Then you can use a razor blade to lift one corner and cleanly peel them off later (and scrape off any residue), though if you have tint, the tint may fade to show the outline if the sticker(s) was/were on there long enough (usually takes years).

mobby_6kl posted:

Is "ignition" just +12v? What the hell is "Lamp"? :)

Ignition is switched +12V (you'll want it on the run circuit, not the accessory circuit), lamp is the dash warning light. Since it says lamp, it's probably expecting an incandescent bulb to be there (SOMETIMES an LED will pass enough current; my 99 Altima tolerated an LED in the alternator warning light socket, but needed what was essentially a cold idle blip [1500 rpm] if I was doing a warm start that didn't send the RPMs high enough)

Up until CAN networking became super common, it was very common for alternators to rely on the dash warning light as a way for the alternator to really work. It's also very likely that's a generic pinout from the 80s - the regulator is probably still responsible for signaling something to turn on the warning light, but that's the same plug Honda has been using since at least the mid 1980s.

randomidiot fucked around with this message at 05:08 on May 8, 2023

mobby_6kl
Aug 9, 2009

by Fluffdaddy
Thanks! The regulator is like $20 so I think I'll just give it a shot and see if I can get it to work on the bench.

Phy
Jun 27, 2008



Fun Shoe
I'm thinking about buying a Macpherson spring compressor kit (the type that places two jackscrews on the outside of the spring). It's one of those situations where I need it infrequently enough that I've got by on rentals this long so far, but there's so much stored energy that I'm always nervous about the rental having been damaged by some jackass. Now apparently Canadian Tire has stopped renting them out, cutting down the available rental pool considerably and putting more stress on the rest of the city.

Any suggestions for brands/what to look for?

RIP Paul Walker
Feb 26, 2004

Phy posted:

I'm thinking about buying a Macpherson spring compressor kit (the type that places two jackscrews on the outside of the spring). It's one of those situations where I need it infrequently enough that I've got by on rentals this long so far, but there's so much stored energy that I'm always nervous about the rental having been damaged by some jackass. Now apparently Canadian Tire has stopped renting them out, cutting down the available rental pool considerably and putting more stress on the rest of the city.

Any suggestions for brands/what to look for?

I have one that I rented 15+ years ago and forgot to return. I way overpaid for it but it is still working fine and doesn’t sketch me out toooo much. Just make sure you tighten it down pretty evenly and use the safety lock thingies and you’ll be fine*.


*no promises, also I will usually unload a strut assembly with an impact and an empty area and before I was old enough to drink used to see how far you can shoot springs in a junkyard so maybe I’m not who you should be trusting on these things.

Bank
Feb 20, 2004
2012 Mazda 5

TL;DR: Is difficulty reading the tranny dip stick a thing? Or am I just stupid?

I've done a drain and fill on the transmission fluid twice on this car. Before starting any of that I checked the dip stick and it looked a bit high at cold (was easy to see because the fluid was dark). I drained 3.5 quarts and filled up 3.5 quarts. Drove it for about 100 miles and last night did it again.

This time the dip stick still looked a bit high, so I drained as much as I could, checked the stick which was completely dry, then filled up about 3 quarts. The dip stick showed it all over the place with no definitive line. I waited about 5 mins then wiped the dip stick clean and tried again. Same thing. I tried it in the sun and using a flash light, but couldn't get a line reading from it. I saw a slight line where the cold reading was supposed to be, so I just used that.

I drove it around for 5 miles yesterday and I didn't notice any issues. My wife called me this morning saying she smelled a burning smell while on the freeway, but it went away after a few minutes and still drives fine (no jerkiness or slipping or anything like that, definitely no smoke from the hood). I know there was probably fluid all over the place that evaporated during the drive, and I'll try again to double check the stick tonight to see if its too low/high. Now I'm worried I am causing more harm than good if the transmission is at the wrong level.

randomidiot
May 12, 2006

by Fluffdaddy

(and can't post for 11 years!)

Yes, it's a thing. There's a process you have to follow.

You need to check the ATF with the engine fully warmed up and running, and run the car through all the gears first. Ideally you'll drive it a little bit, but cycling through every position on the shifter (all the way down, then all the way up, stopping for several seconds in each), is sometimes enough. I did mention the engine has to be running, right? Even though you have a cold mark on it, it does need to be running.

It'll always read higher when cold, and after adding fluid, you need to wait a bit before checking it again, so that what you just added can run down the tube and not give you a false reading.

The smell was probably spilled fluid, even a single drop burning off makes for a lot of smell. Any burning smells a transmission is capable of making will be in the fluid, you won't smell them unless it's so overfilled that it's burping fluid out (unlikely).

Note: if your owner's manual states something different, follow that. But every automatic I've ever owned that had a dipstick required that process.

Farmer Crack-Ass
Jan 2, 2001

this is me posting irl
I'm thinking about replacing my car. I no longer have the compulsive need for a big grandpa car, but my rear end has gotten very used to the plush seating. I'm planning a very long (~5000 mile) road trip next year so seat comfort is a significant factor for me. Is it possible to have a car seat reupholstered (or even replaced altogether) to make for a softer ride than it left the factory with? Or is that not a feasible option?

Bilirubin
Feb 16, 2014

The sanctioned action is to CHUG


Holy poo poo am I angry.

I went into a local "no appts necessary" Mr Lube since my regular shop was slammed to get my tires (already on rims) changed out for a road trip coming next week. And, they refused to put them on, citing the tires have a speed rating that was "wrong" for my car (a 16 year old Toyota Matrix). The tires are rated H, which is the recommended rating for my car as far as I can tell.

Anyway, booked in for Wednesday at another outlet of my usual shop.

Can't help but feel it was some sort of ham fisted shake down attempt.

Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


Farmer Crack-rear end posted:

I'm thinking about replacing my car. I no longer have the compulsive need for a big grandpa car, but my rear end has gotten very used to the plush seating. I'm planning a very long (~5000 mile) road trip next year so seat comfort is a significant factor for me. Is it possible to have a car seat reupholstered (or even replaced altogether) to make for a softer ride than it left the factory with? Or is that not a feasible option?

Depending on the car you can completely swap the seat with some fabrication, but know that you could also be sacrificing some safety. I have acura seats in my F-250.

If you would like to rebuild a seat, you can get different thicknesses and firmnesses of foam but it would likely take a skilled upholsterer to get it to look good.

Bank
Feb 20, 2004

Bilirubin posted:

Holy poo poo am I angry.

I went into a local "no appts necessary" Mr Lube since my regular shop was slammed to get my tires (already on rims) changed out for a road trip coming next week. And, they refused to put them on, citing the tires have a speed rating that was "wrong" for my car (a 16 year old Toyota Matrix). The tires are rated H, which is the recommended rating for my car as far as I can tell.

Anyway, booked in for Wednesday at another outlet of my usual shop.

Can't help but feel it was some sort of ham fisted shake down attempt.

I don't know what part of the country you're in, but I've only heard good things about America's Tire (here in the west coast, Discount Tire elsewhere). I've used them all the time on 4 different cars now and never had any complaints. They even plugged a tire for me for free in about 20 minutes.

I once tried to save a few bucks by getting tires at Wal-Mart and the bozos at the Indy tire shop didn't notice the tires were directional, and installed two of them backwards. America's Tire happily serviced these tires (rotate + balance) for free, even though I didn't buy them from there.

mobby_6kl
Aug 9, 2009

by Fluffdaddy

Bank posted:

I don't know what part of the country you're in, but I've only heard good things about America's Tire (here in the west coast, Discount Tire elsewhere). I've used them all the time on 4 different cars now and never had any complaints. They even plugged a tire for me for free in about 20 minutes.

I once tried to save a few bucks by getting tires at Wal-Mart and the bozos at the Indy tire shop didn't notice the tires were directional, and installed two of them backwards. America's Tire happily serviced these tires (rotate + balance) for free, even though I didn't buy them from there.
Had a shop install wheels backwards too.

I just swap them myself now, takes me less time than booking an apartment and driving there, plus I put them on the right way and actually torque them correctly too.

Bank
Feb 20, 2004

mobby_6kl posted:

Had a shop install wheels backwards too.

I just swap them myself now, takes me less time than booking an apartment and driving there, plus I put them on the right way and actually torque them correctly too.

I used to do this too, but since I can wait around for my appointment, I stick around and watch. I know they are doing the rotation properly and torquing the bolts. I agree with you it's faster to do it yourself vs driving it to a shop, but the problem is I don't have access to a balancer. I didn't think balancing the wheels would make a difference but it does. They once showed me that one of my rims actually had a big dent in it and arranged the weights to compensate.

Then there was that one time I was an idiot and took off the nuts before lifting that side of the car (this was for a BMW). This is what they look like:


Lucky for me the wheel was stuck on real good from rust, so the car didn't collapse on me.

Bilirubin
Feb 16, 2014

The sanctioned action is to CHUG


mobby_6kl posted:

Had a shop install wheels backwards too.

I just swap them myself now, takes me less time than booking an apartment and driving there, plus I put them on the right way and actually torque them correctly too.

Unfortunately I don't have the room to store all of the tools, nor an easy work area in an apartment tower.

As a kid I did everything myself, other than obvious things like putting tires on rims. Now, I'm happy to pay trained people with designed for spaces.

Phy
Jun 27, 2008



Fun Shoe

RIP Paul Walker posted:

I have one that I rented 15+ years ago and forgot to return. I way overpaid for it but it is still working fine and doesn’t sketch me out toooo much. Just make sure you tighten it down pretty evenly and use the safety lock thingies and you’ll be fine*.


*no promises, also I will usually unload a strut assembly with an impact and an empty area and before I was old enough to drink used to see how far you can shoot springs in a junkyard so maybe I’m not who you should be trusting on these things.

Oh yeah I've used them before, just, not often. Having done some research it looks like the same three or four designs are available from everyone in town I can think of to look at, including Rockauto. Capitalism: providing you with the Choice That Isn't!

Bank
Feb 20, 2004

STR posted:

You need to check the ATF with the engine fully warmed up and running, and run the car through all the gears first.

Welp, you're right! Wife got home and it took me several tries to see the line, but I did end up seeing it, after filling up a quart (whoops). Gonna drive it in a bit, but I also gave the cosmetic motor cover a nice wash as there was a film of fluid all over it which contributed to the smell.

REMEMBER SPONGE MONKEYS
Oct 3, 2003

What do you think it means, bitch?

Bilirubin posted:

Can't help but feel it was some sort of ham fisted shake down attempt.

Honestly this usually ends up being some bad mix of incompetence/inexperience and fear (of liability in this case). Otherwise it would be a slightly less bad shakedown.

And +1 for Discount Tire. They will sit and look that sort of poo poo up with you, let you read reviews, etc before you decide.

Will be looking up magnet sheets, thanks y’all.

Anyone here ever ordered/installed either clear vinyl wrap as a bra or stripped interior to lay down the adhesive-backed sound dampening stuff? Seems like you can get decent quality material from China for a decent price, I’m just not sure of the difficulty in application for someone who’s never messed with it. Saving several grand having it done seems appealing though.

Bank
Feb 20, 2004
So I can't find any definitive answers on this, but my Mazda says it only takes FL-22 coolant which appears to be brand specific (as many manufacturers claim). People online say to only stick with FL-22 which means I need to make a trip out to the dealer, who I've had bad experiences with (last time I bought some random bolts they charged me over MSRP..).

Is FL-22 the only way to go or can I go with the Valvoline Zerex blue? From what I can tell, Zerex meets the spec (Valvoline confirms if you call them or ask them), but they just didn't license the spec from Mazda which is why they don't list it on the bottle.

I've never changed the coolant since I bought the car (10 years now) so I figure I might as well. I can find the stuff online for about $25 shipped per gallon so I might just do that. The Zerex is about $15.

SilvergunSuperman
Aug 7, 2010

Hi pals,

So one of my lovely local crackheads decided it was high time my sunroof was introduced to a cinder block.

I'm broke and my poor car seems to attract people that love to open doors fast and hard or enjoy cutting corners too tight, so im past giving a poo poo about what it looks like.

Is getting a piece of plexiglass and sealing it up a viable idea, or should I just pay the deductible. $500 is unfortunately a lot for me.

I did some quick research and it seems plausible, just hoping for any advice.

It's just a car, it sucks but oh well. Stay safe out there.

Uthor
Jul 9, 2006

Gummy Bear Heaven ... It's where I go when the world is too mean.

mobby_6kl posted:

Had a shop install wheels backwards too.

I just swap them myself now, takes me less time than booking an apartment and driving there, plus I put them on the right way and actually torque them correctly too.

I go to a place down the road from my folks that do tire stuff in minutes for half the price of any chain retailer in the area. Except they over torque stuff and I'm super annoyed next time I need to do something.

I went to a local place by me to swap my winter tires for my all seasons a month ago because of the over torquing and when I got home, I realized they over torqued everything, too! My impact wasn't working, so I'm going to have to put a pipe on my 3 ft breaker bar and just go at it.

Deteriorata
Feb 6, 2005

SilvergunSuperman posted:

Hi pals,

So one of my lovely local crackheads decided it was high time my sunroof was introduced to a cinder block.

I'm broke and my poor car seems to attract people that love to open doors fast and hard or enjoy cutting corners too tight, so im past giving a poo poo about what it looks like.

Is getting a piece of plexiglass and sealing it up a viable idea, or should I just pay the deductible. $500 is unfortunately a lot for me.

I did some quick research and it seems plausible, just hoping for any advice.

It's just a car, it sucks but oh well. Stay safe out there.

Plexiglas will leak, eventually. No matter how well you seal it, it will flex around and gradually work itself loose in spots. Probably not badly, but you'll get drips. How big of a problem that would be I can't say.

I also can't answer whether it's worth repairing or not. That's a value judgment you have to make. I'd spend the money and repair it, because it protects more value for a longer time, but I don't know what the car is worth and how much value you're actually protecting.

I hope things work out for you. Life sucks sometimes.

joat mon
Oct 15, 2009

I am the master of my lamp;
I am the captain of my tub.

REMEMBER SPONGE MONKEYS posted:


Anyone here ever ordered/installed either clear vinyl wrap as a bra or stripped interior to lay down the adhesive-backed sound dampening stuff? Seems like you can get decent quality material from China for a decent price, I’m just not sure of the difficulty in application for someone who’s never messed with it. Saving several grand having it done seems appealing though.

I've used the Noico 80mil butyl sound dampening sheets to good effect. Don't get the really cheap asphalt or butyl/asphalt mix stuff, it can melt/slide if it gets too hot and it can smell.
Application is easy. Clean and alcohol wipe the surface, peel the protective backing off of an edge, stick the edge down and peel the backing off from the underneath. Get a roller to make sure it adheres well; the aluminum backing on the sheets is embossed, when the embossing is flattened you're good. The sheets cut easily, and mold reasonably-ish to complex curves. But you shouldn't have to worry too much about molding it into every corner because you don't need 100% coverage; you're dampening vibration of a panel, not blocking sound. (mass loaded vinyl is for blocking sound)

Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006

SilvergunSuperman posted:

Hi pals,

So one of my lovely local crackheads decided it was high time my sunroof was introduced to a cinder block.

I'm broke and my poor car seems to attract people that love to open doors fast and hard or enjoy cutting corners too tight, so im past giving a poo poo about what it looks like.

Is getting a piece of plexiglass and sealing it up a viable idea, or should I just pay the deductible. $500 is unfortunately a lot for me.

I did some quick research and it seems plausible, just hoping for any advice.

It's just a car, it sucks but oh well. Stay safe out there.

What's the year/make/model? If it's just the sunroof that's damaged you could replace it with one from another junk car of the same model, it's not too difficult really.

Check around the internet (ebay) for a used one, and have someone else put it in if you're not up to the task.

KakerMix
Apr 8, 2004

8.2 M.P.G.
:byetankie:

SilvergunSuperman posted:

Hi pals,

So one of my lovely local crackheads decided it was high time my sunroof was introduced to a cinder block.

I'm broke and my poor car seems to attract people that love to open doors fast and hard or enjoy cutting corners too tight, so im past giving a poo poo about what it looks like.

Is getting a piece of plexiglass and sealing it up a viable idea, or should I just pay the deductible. $500 is unfortunately a lot for me.

I did some quick research and it seems plausible, just hoping for any advice.

It's just a car, it sucks but oh well. Stay safe out there.

If yours is like any other sun/moonroof, it doesn't seal the glass to the car body, not watertight anyway. What it does is roughly seal, with a gutter inside that then drains the water away using tubes that typically dump back down by your rear wheels.


Circled are the parts that sit underneath your panel and catch then drain the water away.

So! Yes, a panel of plexiglass can work just fine because you don't need it to be a water-tight seal. You just need it to be as good as the glass that was there. Make sure those drains are cleared, because when people say their sunroof leaks what they actually are saying is their drains are clogged and the water pools up in that tray then spills out into the headliner area. Again, this is just a typical sort of way these things are usually set up, modern panoramic moonroof glass things might be very different.

AzureSkys
Apr 27, 2003

I have an 89 Toyota Pickup V6 4x4 ext cab that's not wanting to start and only getting electrical power to a few things.
The battery is good, plus I tried another known good one. I get power to the headlights, marker/turn lights, and the buzzer goes off when the key is in and door open. I don't get any power to the ACC switch position (instrument cluster, climate controls, radio) and nothing happens when ignition is turned to start.

I've looked through all the fuses and they check good and all the battery connections. I'm not sure where else to look at to begin figuring out what's not connecting. It sat for most of the Winter and I last used it in December without issue.

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe
Start at the ignition switch and look for power to the contacts there. Chase them to their respective relays if it has any.

Rotten
May 21, 2002

As a shadow I walk in the land of the dead
Does it have the button you can use to bypass the clutch to start it? My 91 did and I had to use it whenever there was an electrical issue.

REMEMBER SPONGE MONKEYS
Oct 3, 2003

What do you think it means, bitch?
How bad is it to remove door panels and replace them so they’re not all janky? My potential project will have a hatch and I’ve heard the roof can use it too. I’m a pretty big cheapo but these from China seem good, could be wrong though:

Car Sound Deadener Mat 5/10/15mm
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mP97UkC

10 Sheets Sound Deadener 5mm
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mP1H27O

2nd claims to be butyl for sure.

I guess most of the savings are in labor at the end of the day too, eh?

Is MLV used in auto applications? If it made sense to do while I’m in there I might. It’s mostly the panels/headliner I’m worried about.

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Don't put words in my mouth, I've never made any claims about [IQ tests]

-- Hadlock
My old neighbors had a Chevy avalanche with the sunroof busted and they made their own and sealed it with bathroom caulk. Or somebody did. Every time it rained more than 1/10" (at least once a week) their truck had a baby tarp strapped over the sun roof. That's only a sample size of one but does add weight to the other guy saying I'll eventually leak

Bank
Feb 20, 2004
Y'all making me regret buying my new car with the moonroof.. I rarely use it, but when I need it, it's amazing.

I probably could have saved an easy 7k because the entry level trim could have sufficed for me..ugh.

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Don't put words in my mouth, I've never made any claims about [IQ tests]

-- Hadlock

REMEMBER SPONGE MONKEYS posted:

How bad is it to remove door panels and replace them so they’re not all janky? My potential project will have a hatch and I’ve heard the roof can use it too. I’m a pretty big cheapo but these from China seem good, could be wrong though:

Car Sound Deadener Mat 5/10/15mm
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mP97UkC

10 Sheets Sound Deadener 5mm
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mP1H27O

According to superfastmatt on YouTube, who claims to be an automotive engineer, you get what you pay for when it comes to automotive sound deadening, and he recommends dynamat. But I know nothing on the subject

Edit: about three minutes in he admits dynamat sponsored that video, so take it with a heaping stack of salt
Source:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HUabCxcT5R4

Hadlock fucked around with this message at 23:57 on May 9, 2023

CAT INTERCEPTOR
Nov 9, 2004

Basically a male Margaret Thatcher
SuperFastMatt knows what he is talking about. Dynamat is what you want

quote:

who claims to be an automotive engineer

One who has worked at actual car makers as well as Tesla. Unlike most yooootooobers he actually knows his poo poo.

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe
It also has to be applied properly. Buying it by the acre and blanketing every panel in it is not how it works or is designed to be used.

Elder Postsman
Aug 30, 2000


i used hot bot to search for "teens"

I'm about to do something maybe very stupid and buy a Mazda 5 that's 1000 miles away. Been chatting with the seller and pulled the carfax and it's all looking pretty good so far. It's listed on Autotrader, private party sale, and it sounds like they handle all the money and registration stuff, have any of y'all bought a car this way? Any gotchas with the buying without a test drive thing?

Bank
Feb 20, 2004
I have a Mazda 5..what year is it? I'm any case, there's no way I'd buy a used car without test driving it.

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Don't put words in my mouth, I've never made any claims about [IQ tests]

-- Hadlock

CAT INTERCEPTOR posted:

SuperFastMatt knows what he is talking about. Dynamat is what you want

One who has worked at actual car makers as well as Tesla. Unlike most yooootooobers he actually knows his poo poo.

Yeah I don't doubt it, I just didn't want to misrepresent it as good advice if my reading on him was wrong, I haven't looked up his credentials

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Don't put words in my mouth, I've never made any claims about [IQ tests]

-- Hadlock

Elder Postsman posted:

I'm about to do something maybe very stupid and buy a Mazda 5 that's 1000 miles away. Been chatting with the seller and pulled the carfax and it's all looking pretty good so far. It's listed on Autotrader, private party sale, and it sounds like they handle all the money and registration stuff, have any of y'all bought a car this way? Any gotchas with the buying without a test drive thing?

I bought a French car in Oregon while living in the swamp mid Atlantic East coast. We actually have a "buying a car far away" thread. What I did was

1. Call my cousin who lived near by and ask if he knew anyone who knew anyone about cars nearby (he's not a car person and probably drives a 15+ year old Prius)
2. Call that person, mention the relation, ask them if they do car inspections, and if not, do they know anyone
3. Rinse and repeat until you find someone

In my case it was a French guy who knew that car and lived about an hour away. We settled on, I forget, I think $300; $100/hr for travel each way and $100 for an hour of visual inspection + test drive. He sent me a bunch of photos and a video that ended up on YouTube

It was kind of a specialty car so people are a little less fast and loose about it, not sure if you'd have the same experience with a high volume car like a Miata but maybe start off by calling or emailing the local Miata club president and then call whoever he/she recommends. Failing that call the local SCCA president or whoever will return your calls

Elder Postsman
Aug 30, 2000


i used hot bot to search for "teens"

Bank posted:

I have a Mazda 5..what year is it? I'm any case, there's no way I'd buy a used car without test driving it.

It's a 2013. I'm not sure the no test drive thing bothers me that much - I know they're fairly reliable, I know it's the model I want. As long as it's not broken, ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Hadlock posted:

It was kind of a specialty car so people are a little less fast and loose about it, not sure if you'd have the same experience with a high volume car like a Miata but maybe start off by calling or emailing the local Miata club president and then call whoever he/she recommends. Failing that call the local SCCA president or whoever will return your calls

It's a 5, I've already got a Miata. I'll check out that thread though.

Elder Postsman fucked around with this message at 04:07 on May 10, 2023

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VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Elder Postsman posted:

It's a 2013. I'm not sure the no test drive thing bothers me that much - I know they're fairly reliable, I know it's the model I want. As long as it's not broken, ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

It's a 5, I've already got a Miata. I'll check out that thread though.

I think you're talking yourself into a bad situation because you're excited about the possibility of the best case scenario. Someone with nothing to hide would let you test drive the vehicle, especially if you've been talking to them and you're going to be travelling 1000 miles to check out.

e: I say this as someone who just bought a condo last year without seeing it first. At least they should be taking it to a shop of your choosing to have a really in depth inspection.

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