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Ulf
Jul 15, 2001

FOUR COLORS
ONE LOVE
Nap Ghost
Makes sense. I’ll confirm by turning the petcock off and seeing if that works around the problem.

I don’t think it’s the pilot jet since I didn’t remove or change them (I left the carbs racked and you can’t even turn the pilot without removing a rack rail or the screw caps, since they interfere by design). Wrong float needles lines up nicely to explain it.

Good to know about bad coils’ behavior while the engine is running, that convinces me and I’ll leave them alone. I’d gotten the idea for googling for symptoms and a lot of lists laid out a scenario where the heat of the engine would temporarily knock them out.

Edit: oh wait, I have a vacuum petcock. Hmm. I’ll check the spark tomorrow and that’ll tell me if it’s fuel or spark at least.

Ulf fucked around with this message at 03:18 on May 8, 2023

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SSH IT ZOMBIE
Apr 19, 2003
No more blinkies! Yay!
College Slice
When you dirtbike people drop your bikes, if the shifter bends, do you replace with OEM or like aftermarket like Tusk?

I have been off roading my Versys X 300 at an ATV park. There's a storytime somewhere in there but my shifter looks bent after this last run.

TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!

SSH IT ZOMBIE posted:

When you dirtbike people drop your bikes, if the shifter bends, do you replace with OEM or like aftermarket like Tusk?

I have been off roading my Versys X 300 at an ATV park. There's a storytime somewhere in there but my shifter looks bent after this last run.

Depends on the quality of the OEM lever. I'm usually a fan of OEM parts, but chances are its broke because it's made of swiss cheese. I've had that situation with my son's KLX300. Terrible OEM shifter.
he's also hard on shifters for some reason I can't figure out. I have two aftermarket replacements in my mobile tool box

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Otoh the shifter being frail is what protects your gearbox and case from annihilation

SSH IT ZOMBIE
Apr 19, 2003
No more blinkies! Yay!
College Slice

Slavvy posted:

Otoh the shifter being frail is what protects your gearbox and case from annihilation

In total agreement. Not looking for something indestructible given what it is attached to. It just feels weird turning my "good" bike into a mismash of non oem parts but c'est la vie I guess.

GriszledMelkaba
Sep 4, 2003


Other hard parts usually touch down before the shifter gets any real force on it. Just order an oem replacement before your current one gets broken so by the laws of over-preparedness/superstition you'll never break your current one. Also always tighten your triples and handlebar clamps to the manufacturer torque settings which always feels way less than it should be; you want that poo poo to twist in a crash instead of bending something else. Much better to have to loosen bolts, bounce the forks and get everything back in line than have a hosed up handlebar mount that needs to be replaced because you over tightened the bolts.

hoho`win
Mar 7, 2003
I was relocated for work from Chicago, IL to Fort Lauderdale, FL earlier this year. Looking for a metric mechanic recommendation in the south Florida area. Anyone know anybody?

Fluffs McCloud
Dec 25, 2005
On an IHOP crusade
So, the Pirelli Angel GT. Still the recommended tire for generally casual riding and commuting? Any options that might make an XSR700 lean in a little easier or communicate more than phantoms that are coming off. I was commuting on a bike full time as well as day trips, and not a particularly aggressive rider. However, sometimes it felt like the bike was really fighting to stand up in turns, and takes a surprising amount of force on the bars to keep the thing firmly on a line.

Remy Marathe
Mar 15, 2007

_________===D ~ ~ _\____/

Are those phantom sportscomps? Because lol if so holy poo poo you just very accurately described the weirdness of those same tires during higher-speed cornering on the Triumph T120, and you're in for a treat when you throw them away and find your bike steers like a bike.

Fluffs McCloud
Dec 25, 2005
On an IHOP crusade

Remy Marathe posted:

Are those phantom sportscomps? Because lol if so holy poo poo you just very accurately described the weirdness of those same tires during higher-speed cornering on the Triumph T120, and you're in for a treat when you throw them away and find your bike steers like a bike.

Hahaha, yep, they sure are! Glad to hear how big a difference it will likely make getting rid of them, I sorta assumed that it was going to be very mild if at all, since tires don't really change...you know motorcycle geometry and laws of physics that much.

Remy Marathe
Mar 15, 2007

_________===D ~ ~ _\____/

Nah they were weird, both in higher speed turns like you describe where you're fighting the bike to turn in, and during U-turns and low speed parking lot practice where there was this nonlinear response that just sucked. Slavvy suggested bad construction in another thread. I was worried I was throwing away money changing the sportscomps out with a bunch of tread left, but it unfucked everything I disliked about my motorcycle.

For replacements I got Avon Spirit ST's and I like them but I don't know poo poo about tires or what's good on your bike.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Fluffs McCloud posted:

So, the Pirelli Angel GT. Still the recommended tire for generally casual riding and commuting? Any options that might make an XSR700 lean in a little easier or communicate more than phantoms that are coming off. I was commuting on a bike full time as well as day trips, and not a particularly aggressive rider. However, sometimes it felt like the bike was really fighting to stand up in turns, and takes a surprising amount of force on the bars to keep the thing firmly on a line.

How the hell did that bike end up with those tires lmao tell me they aren't factory fitted? My god it's like putting ski boots on a race horse

Tyres absolutely do change the basic geometry of the bike because they're all different shapes and sizes even within nominally identical metric sizing, and they all flex and deflect differently

Angel gt's will make it feel like you've bought a different bike

Fluffs McCloud
Dec 25, 2005
On an IHOP crusade

Slavvy posted:

How the hell did that bike end up with those tires lmao tell me they aren't factory fitted? My god it's like putting ski boots on a race horse

Tyres absolutely do change the basic geometry of the bike because they're all different shapes and sizes even within nominally identical metric sizing, and they all flex and deflect differently

Angel gt's will make it feel like you've bought a different bike

Well, I think because pirelli never updated them for years they're "retro", so they did end up being the factory tire on the "retro" bike from what I can tell. Also pretty God damned amusing that phantom sportcomps cost considerably more than... Many modern tires.

So Angel GTs will be a marked improvement in all aspects, but are there any other contenders for the mildy enthusiast rider who will probably burn through a set before the rainy season comes back in earnest?

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

If you like square and blunt, Michelin make the pilot road 5

Whatever the sport touring Bridgestone is called, those are pretty decent

I'm agnostic on dunlops, they aren't for me but I can see why people like them

Invalido
Dec 28, 2005

BICHAELING
I'm still eagerly waiting for my angel gt rear tire which is seemingly moving north through Germany on an oxcart or something. I've had the front for well over a week. Can't wait to get rid of the stock Dunlop sportsmax roadsmart 3's I got now. This is something I should have done over the winter but I didn't know how bad they were.

LimaBiker
Dec 9, 2020




Slavvy posted:

If you like square and blunt, Michelin make the pilot road 5

Whatever the sport touring Bridgestone is called, those are pretty decent

I'm agnostic on dunlops, they aren't for me but I can see why people like them

Battlax T32.
I have them on my SV650 after first having Michelin Pilot Road because of rain riding.
Completely transformed the bike. I recognize the struggle of fighting the bike into a corner with those pilot roads.

For commuting, the Michelins are exquisite. But one of the reasons why i bought the FZR600 is that the SV just sucked to wrestle into and through a corner. After getting rid of the Pilot Roads after a puncture, i felt like i had a new bike.

Russian Bear
Dec 26, 2007


You will love the angel gts if you’re looking for a tippier tire. In fact any sporty pirelli. Putting on the rosso 3s changed my MT03 considerably (to be more fun).

Invalido
Dec 28, 2005

BICHAELING
Yeah the sporty pirellis I put on the the little honda to replace the stock road winner something-or-others profoundly changed the bike and how confident I felt in riding it in very good ways. I like tippy, tippy is good - why else would I ride motorcycles?

SSH IT ZOMBIE
Apr 19, 2003
No more blinkies! Yay!
College Slice
Hm, my bike takes 100/90-19 in front and 130/80-17 stock
It is somewhat hard to find a good selection of tires

The heidenau k60 rangers are 110/80-19 and 130/80-17

The road 6s are 110/80 and 140/70

The heidenau tires changed handling noticeably at lower speeds, up to like 20mph. The handlebars actually turn in at higher speeds(20mph) instead of the bike fully relying on counter steering by that point. It feels weird but I got used to it. At higher speeds they feel similar to the stock tires.

The second number is basically how tall the tire is, right? Aspect. Like 70℅ of 140mm

The square vs roundness of the tire isn't really represented in the numbers, right? Like a shorter tire might inherently be more round but might steer heavier?

I am wondering how the road 6s will feel compared to stock or the heidenaus. The ratios are close ish. Wondering if other things not described in the numbers matter more for feeling and handling...

Like is it more than just the aspect ratio and width that makes a tire tippy or stable in a corner?

The heidenaus feel less tippy at low speeds than the stock shinko, maybe more tippy and even squirrely at more lean at speed(they aren't designed for that)



SSH IT ZOMBIE fucked around with this message at 21:41 on May 11, 2023

Delta-Wye
Sep 29, 2005
I've got a stupid clutch question! I have been spending more time on a Harley lately, and I think there is something poorly adjusted with the transmission. My usual ride has a dry clutch like a car, so I don't have a good point of reference.

When moving it around while the motor is off and the bike is cold, I can notice an obvious difference between pulling the clutch and putting it in neutral. When it's in gear and I'm holding the clutch, I'm definitely rotating a lot more of the drivetrain when I push the bike around. It feels like I'm trying to roll the motor over, its a pretty hard push compared to N. When I start it in gear, I can feel the motor gently tug on the bike a little bit, something that goes away if I start it in neutral. My feet on the ground are enough to keep it from actually moving, but its definitely pulling a bit. I don't notice this at all when stopped after driving for a bit, maybe because the wet clutch is warmed up or because its not a huge amount of force and is easier to miss when I'm not going from engine off to started.

It's not a big deal; other than the stiffness/dragging when the bike is cold it feels great! I'm reluctant to adjust the clutch cable tension if this is normal feel for a wet clutch. This is a dumb question, but I don't have irl bike buddies to ask or hands on experience and like I said, my other ride is a tractor and wouldn't feel similar. If it was the dry clutch I would be confident that the clutch mechanically dragging with the handle pulled in all the way is a problem to be adjusted but I'm not so sure here.

Am I experiencing viscous coupling when its cold? Should I dial it out?

epswing
Nov 4, 2003

Soiled Meat
Yeah, sounds like the clutch is dragging. Adjusting the lever slack probably won’t fix it. Depending on the model, there’s a ball/ramp assembly behind the clutch cover (called a derby cover in the manual) with a rod in the middle. Remove the small nut+spring that prevents the rod from turning. With a flathead screwdriver, turn the rod counter clockwise until it gently soft-seats, then a 1/2 turn clockwise and that should do it.

If the rod is too tight or too loose, the clutch will either drag or slip.

Edit: See 35 minutes into this video: https://youtu.be/g8BMUy-pTBs

epswing fucked around with this message at 18:12 on May 12, 2023

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

While that is true and worthwhile, there are a couple of things to bear in mind:

The bike being harder to push with the clutch pulled in rather than in neutral is normal to all bikes, that will never go away and is because of the oil dragging

I have never seen a Harley that doesn't clunk and jump when you drop into first from neutral

The primary drive oil you use has a huge impact on clutch behavior in relation to temperature


It's definitely worth adjusting the free play screw first though.

LimaBiker
Dec 9, 2020




The SV's front brake system overhaul is done. Revision kit for master cylinder, calipers, new pistons and new brake lines.

I'm running into a problem now. I have to pump the brake to get the lever to feel hard, and for the lever travel to be normal. The lever doesn't sink while i'm holding it.

I've been trying to bleed the system for a while. At the moment, no bubbles come out of the bleed nipples anymore. At first, a lot of air bubbled out of the reservoir line (which got sucked up and pumped in again a bunch of times until i figured out i had to squeeze the little line to get the bubbles out). But by now, nothing is coming out anymore.

There are no leaks.

However, since everything is replaced - am i right to assume there is *still* some bubble trapped somewhere?
The only other option i can think of is that somehow during cleaning a piece of dirt managed to get into a passage in the MC somewhere. But that thing was perfectly clean when i was done with it, so to me it doesn't seem very likely. Brakes release well.

Bubbles somewhere - yes or no?

LimaBiker fucked around with this message at 17:43 on May 13, 2023

MetaJew
Apr 14, 2006
Gather round, one and all, and thrill to my turgid tales of underwhelming misadventure!
So you did all new pistons, oil seal (is that the right name?) and dust seals on the caliper?

Have you taken the caliper off and pumped the lever to see how evenly both pistons are moving? If one is sticking or not coming out smoothly it could be a sign that your seals are sticking or binding.

Pressing the pistons all the way in could try to force any fluid and air in the piston back up to the master cylinder, or at least closer to the bleeder nipple.

Good luck!

LimaBiker
Dec 9, 2020




MetaJew posted:

So you did all new pistons, oil seal (is that the right name?) and dust seals on the caliper?
Yes.

quote:

Have you taken the caliper off and pumped the lever to see how evenly both pistons are moving? If one is sticking or not coming out smoothly it could be a sign that your seals are sticking or binding.
No. Will check. The pistons could be pushed in easily with some firm pressure. In hindsight, if they can bottom out, it might be that one of them is bottomed out and therefore not getting any 'forward' pressure.

quote:

Pressing the pistons all the way in could try to force any fluid and air in the piston back up to the master cylinder, or at least closer to the bleeder nipple.

Good luck!
Will try.

Beve Stuscemi
Jun 6, 2001




You may also need to bleed the banjos.

Did the revision kit include new seals for the master cylinder piston? I had a Brembo master cylinder on my DRZ SM that acted exactly like you're describing and a new seal kit was what fixed it

LimaBiker
Dec 9, 2020




Literally everything that is not the body, reservoir and lever of the master cylinder, the distributor pipe, and the caliper bodies (cylinders) was replaced.

The solution turned out to be to push back the pistons and pump them out a couple of times, as MetaJew suggested. The brakes are better than i've ever had them on this bike. Rock hard and very light to operate.
They still make an odd 'Squonk' noise when coming to a complete stop, but i reckon that's from the brake disk not having been used for a month or so.

I'm incredibly happy with how they turned out :) but i also have to get used to having brakes that require a lot less force. Emergency stop drill time!

DearSirXNORMadam
Aug 1, 2009
If you need emergency metric fasteners in the US, I've generally had much better luck with Ace Hardware than with either Lowes or Home Depot, Aces will usually have a section with metric hardware by the bolt somewhere in the store. The selection is usually still so-so, like I'm not promising they will have socket heads or anything, but depending on what you need you may luck out.

Rusty
Sep 28, 2001
Dinosaur Gum
What are the wires in this photo? It's an XSR700. They are not listed in the manual, so my guess is either something to maintain the battery hooks up here, or it is for the ECU. Just weird they are hanging out there.

epswing
Nov 4, 2003

Soiled Meat
Yeah, battery connector, into which you can connect a battery tender to maintain the battery, or also plug things like heated outerwear, etc. Sometimes they're fastened/zip-tied properly and look like they're supposed to be there. Sometimes they're just flapping in the wind. Depends on PO laziness.

epswing fucked around with this message at 17:21 on May 16, 2023

Rusty
Sep 28, 2001
Dinosaur Gum
Perfect, thank you.

Lungboy
Aug 23, 2002

NEED SQUAT FORM HELP
When I get my Nmax out of the garage in the morning, the little bit of drive I stand it on while I close the garage is slightly inclined, and the Nmax keeps falling off its side stand. 3 times in the last 4 days it's tried to fall over simply because the gradient allows a small roll forward which is enough to overcome the stand. A google suggests it's a common issue with the Nmax stand, but the only solution seems to be grinding off a bit of the stand or the stop so that the stand can rotate further forwards before it stops. I don't have a grinder and don't really want to take one to a brand new bike anyway, so is there any other way to adjust a stand to fix this? Would a flat foot be enough to stop it?

e: had a close look and checked the manual and there's no adjustment on the stand, so I guess I'll have to try a flat foot for now.

Lungboy fucked around with this message at 21:05 on May 16, 2023

TotalLossBrain
Oct 20, 2010

Hier graben!
Nvm

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Lungboy posted:

When I get my Nmax out of the garage in the morning, the little bit of drive I stand it on while I close the garage is slightly inclined, and the Nmax keeps falling off its side stand. 3 times in the last 4 days it's tried to fall over simply because the gradient allows a small roll forward which is enough to overcome the stand. A google suggests it's a common issue with the Nmax stand, but the only solution seems to be grinding off a bit of the stand or the stop so that the stand can rotate further forwards before it stops. I don't have a grinder and don't really want to take one to a brand new bike anyway, so is there any other way to adjust a stand to fix this? Would a flat foot be enough to stop it?

e: had a close look and checked the manual and there's no adjustment on the stand, so I guess I'll have to try a flat foot for now.

Does it not have a center stand?

Lungboy
Aug 23, 2002

NEED SQUAT FORM HELP

Slavvy posted:

Does it not have a center stand?

It does and I use it if i'm parking up for any reasonable length of time, but if i'm just hopping off to shut a door or whatever I should be able to use the sidestand without it falling over on a tiny incline.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Well you're asking how to make it incline on the side stand more. You can make the stand shorter, you can bend the mount to make it stick out sideways more, or you can grind the stop to make it tilt forward more. Not much else you can do besides just putting the bike somewhere else for thirty seconds.

epswing
Nov 4, 2003

Soiled Meat
Devise an elaborate system of rope and pulleys such that you can tear out of your garage and it slams shut behind you automatically.

Remy Marathe
Mar 15, 2007

_________===D ~ ~ _\____/

Lungboy posted:

allows a small roll forward which is enough to overcome the stand.
I need pictures, this sounds like you're pointing it downhill as you exit the garage, which seems reversible

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Remy Marathe posted:

I need pictures, this sounds like you're pointing it downhill as you exit the garage, which seems reversible

That's a nice play on words there, great stuff

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Phy
Jun 27, 2008



Fun Shoe

epswing posted:

Devise an elaborate system of rope and pulleys such that you can tear out of your garage and it slams shut behind you automatically.

Every time I see the phrase"elaborate system of ropes and pulleys" I think of how Thomas "Leaded Gas and CFCs" Midgely died

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