Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
Heck Yes! Loam!
Nov 15, 2004

a rich, friable soil containing a relatively equal mixture of sand and silt and a somewhat smaller proportion of clay.
I guess I meant palm rest

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Klyith
Aug 3, 2007

GBS Pledge Week

Gearman posted:

With modern mechanical keyboards that have a variety of softer gasket mounts, top mounts, and float mounts, in addition soft plates like POM and FR4, bottoming out is cushioned quite a bit.

I think it's not really about the impact per se. The bad part is when you're at the bottom and still applying force, because
a) the force will be much higher than the normal switch / spring force. Your spring might have 60 grams of resistance, the baseplate has yes resistance.
b) it's a static position -- the key isn't moving anymore. Way worse for a joint to push against itself like that.


OTOH there are many possibilities and variations in switches, and I can easily imagine a switch with a low-force spring and enough feedback that you are already relaxing as you approach bottom. Like you are "falling" through the lower part of the throw and just tapping the bottom. Blues work like that for me, I would tap bottom a lot but very lightly. (They were equally good as the clears but I disliked the noise.)

I personally find this stuff very noticeable because my wrists are in pretty good shape, but my finger joints are not. Early stages of osteoarthritis showing up. So someone else may not find this stuff to be a problem at all. But osteoarthritis is about wear, so having good typing mechanics before you are in pain is worth considering.

If you are pounding the keys hard, it is absolutely not good for you.


Gearman posted:

Some of the most popular switches right now are designed with longer poles specifically for the bottom-out feel.

"What switches are popular now" is a really loving terrible way to judge anything. This hobby is driven by FOTM trends, not by what's good for healthy typing.

god please help me
Jul 9, 2018
I LOVE GIVING MY TAX MONEY AND MY PERSONAL INCOME TO UKRAINE, SLAVA
In regards to keeping my finger joints happy, I just wanted to say that I'm probably in the minority but I've been using gamakay phoenix switches, which is a silent switch with silicone sound dampeners and a shorter-than-usual key travel. It's been great for me since I tend to bottom out, and this cushions it. Additionally, I also added O rings as well to shorten key travel and dampen the bottom-out impact even further. It's wonderful. :getin:

Also, they're lightweight switches too. My delicate bird hands appreciate that.

god please help me fucked around with this message at 09:05 on Apr 29, 2023

ijyt
Apr 10, 2012

Unsinkabear posted:

They also claim to offer Google Pay as a checkout option, but it will say your payment method failed and suggest you use a different payment method with them directly, every time, no matter how many different browsers or payment methods you try. I managed to reach out to their customer service thanks to the magic of Google translate, and (politely) explained what was happening and that I wanted to give them money but wasn't going to just put my card info directly into some rando website's unknown cart software. I asked if there was anything they could do to fix the issue or at least assist, but it's been weeks and they refused to respond to any questions about it in both English and Google-translated Romanian (despite sending me abandoned cart emails all the while). The whole thing reeked.

The keycaps I wanted are now sold out anyway, but between those two experiences, I'm going to say just don't order from them period.

I think you might be talking about a vendor, Qwertykeys/Owlab are a chinese keyboard maker :)

Gearman
Dec 6, 2011

Klyith posted:

I think it's not really about the impact per se. The bad part is when you're at the bottom and still applying force, because
a) the force will be much higher than the normal switch / spring force. Your spring might have 60 grams of resistance, the baseplate has yes resistance.
b) it's a static position -- the key isn't moving anymore. Way worse for a joint to push against itself like that.


OTOH there are many possibilities and variations in switches, and I can easily imagine a switch with a low-force spring and enough feedback that you are already relaxing as you approach bottom. Like you are "falling" through the lower part of the throw and just tapping the bottom. Blues work like that for me, I would tap bottom a lot but very lightly. (They were equally good as the clears but I disliked the noise.)

I personally find this stuff very noticeable because my wrists are in pretty good shape, but my finger joints are not. Early stages of osteoarthritis showing up. So someone else may not find this stuff to be a problem at all. But osteoarthritis is about wear, so having good typing mechanics before you are in pain is worth considering.

If you are pounding the keys hard, it is absolutely not good for you.

"What switches are popular now" is a really loving terrible way to judge anything. This hobby is driven by FOTM trends, not by what's good for healthy typing.

I'm sorry to hear about your osteoarthritis. I started really going down the rabbit hole because I was experiencing wrist pain and wanted to see what might be out there to help.

The great thing about the hobby today, as opposed to even a couple years ago, is that there are so many more options available that you're likely to find something that works for you now. It's a truly massive hobby these days, and there are a lot of different segments of it fulfilling a wide variety of needs.

The long pole switch came out because a lot of people found it difficult to know when their ultra-smooth linear switch fully actuated. They wanted some kind of feedback without needing to use a tactile switch. The shorter bottom out meant that they didn't have to press as far and had some feedback to know they had fully pressed the switch.

If you find that you're still pressing with an excessive amount of force, there are a wide variety of springs from progressive, to complex, that help prevent you from pressing too hard towards the bottom of the press. Modern plate materials like Polycarbonate used in a top mount configuration also cushion and support presses if/when you bottom out as well.

Klyith
Aug 3, 2007

GBS Pledge Week
lmao I just dumped a full mug of coffee into my board this morning

maybe I'll get to check out all the new options sooner rater than later

WELP

Zero VGS
Aug 16, 2002
ASK ME ABOUT HOW HUMAN LIVES THAT MADE VIDEO GAME CONTROLLERS ARE WORTH MORE
Lipstick Apathy

Klyith posted:

lmao I just dumped a full mug of coffee into my board this morning

maybe I'll get to check out all the new options sooner rater than later

WELP

I don't always spill my coffee, but when I do it's always the entire hot cup into the worst places possible.

I do keep around a 1-gallon plastic bottle of 99% rubbing alcohol. A lot of electronics can be saved washing them in a clean cookie sheet of the stuff.

redeyes
Sep 14, 2002

by Fluffdaddy

Klyith posted:

lmao I just dumped a full mug of coffee into my board this morning

maybe I'll get to check out all the new options sooner rater than later

WELP

Go get some distilled watter and rinse that sucker hard, take the case off as well. Next toss some Isopropyl on it and blow it all off with a leaf blower. Should be fine.

Klyith
Aug 3, 2007

GBS Pledge Week

Zero VGS posted:

I do keep around a 1-gallon plastic bottle of 99% rubbing alcohol. A lot of electronics can be saved washing them in a clean cookie sheet of the stuff.

The biggest problem for mech keyboards is often with water / liquid inside the switches themselves. Water doesn't come out of them easily, and the springs & contacts are real vulnerable to corrosion. So an alcohol bath would be a decent option. That would displace all the water and dry out faster, though you'd still want to give it a while to dry.


But this board, the case is a plastic that isn't alcohol-safe. And it's a giant PITA to get open (it's a WASD board, they're really poo poo in that respect). So what I did was rinse it out with plenty of water right away. The electronics will probably be ok -- it's not backlit so the PCB is pretty simple & bulletproof.

Then I popped off the caps and stabs, and am running through a couple of dry-out cycles in the oven. I'll give it a day or two more to be fully dried out before I gently caress with it.

* Preheat oven very low, turn off, wait 5 minutes for it to cool and reach equilibrium, put electronics in resting on a cool ceramic plate or dish. Wait half an hour, take out, let everything cool down. Then repeat flipped upside down.



I'm betting it'll be fine, but who knows. Hilarious timing though.

Zero VGS
Aug 16, 2002
ASK ME ABOUT HOW HUMAN LIVES THAT MADE VIDEO GAME CONTROLLERS ARE WORTH MORE
Lipstick Apathy
Saw this at Target today and thought the thread would appreciate it:

Rexxed
May 1, 2010

Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!

HAMIFUG is the new cool layout.

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


to start, press B key

Klyith
Aug 3, 2007

GBS Pledge Week
Keeb is fine, hurrah. I'd been wanting to take all the caps off and do a good cleaning anyways.


Downside is the stabilizer stems (costar type) have totally lost their grip, so I had to glue them into the keycaps. Upside, while loving around trying to reinstall the keys with glued-in stems I discovered that every instructional thing I've ever seen on how to install caps with costar stabs has been wrong.

The two ways people say to do it are either to have the stems in the wire on the baseplate and try to align the keycap so it goes into all three at once, or to put the stems in the key and try to hook them onto the wire in place. Those both suck. The good way to do it is to put the stems and the wire onto the keycap first. Then push the cap onto the switch, and find a tool that can press the wire into the plate clips. So much easier.


Costar stabs are still way more of a PITA than cherry but I like them a whole lot more -- when they're done right they do a better job of keeping the key level while pressing IMO.

Rexxed
May 1, 2010

Dis is amazing!
I gotta try dis!

Klyith posted:

Keeb is fine, hurrah. I'd been wanting to take all the caps off and do a good cleaning anyways.


Downside is the stabilizer stems (costar type) have totally lost their grip, so I had to glue them into the keycaps. Upside, while loving around trying to reinstall the keys with glued-in stems I discovered that every instructional thing I've ever seen on how to install caps with costar stabs has been wrong.

The two ways people say to do it are either to have the stems in the wire on the baseplate and try to align the keycap so it goes into all three at once, or to put the stems in the key and try to hook them onto the wire in place. Those both suck. The good way to do it is to put the stems and the wire onto the keycap first. Then push the cap onto the switch, and find a tool that can press the wire into the plate clips. So much easier.


Costar stabs are still way more of a PITA than cherry but I like them a whole lot more -- when they're done right they do a better job of keeping the key level while pressing IMO.

I had some keycaps that were a bit loose on the stabilizers but I just used some thin paper strips to shim them a bit. Seemed okay without glue but that works too, it's just a bit more permanent.

Ben Nerevarine
Apr 14, 2006
I have a sneaking suspicion my Sonnet backorder will fall through the cracks when they restock on the 15th and I’m almost hoping it does so I can complain to support and get some free stuff

handoferis
Dec 25, 2022

Rexxed posted:

I had some keycaps that were a bit loose on the stabilizers but I just used some thin paper strips to shim them a bit. Seemed okay without glue but that works too, it's just a bit more permanent.

My go-to for loose anything with keyboards (caps, stabilizer keycap inserts, you name it) is little torn off squares of cig rolling papers. They really improve the seal between parts that've lost tolerance.

ijyt
Apr 10, 2012

Something for the low-profile fans: https://electronicmaterialsoffice.com/

repiv
Aug 13, 2009

using standard(ish) choc switches but not making them hotswappable is a big miss

death cob for cutie
Dec 30, 2006

dwarves won't delve no more
too much splatting down on Zot:4
Getting the urge to build something again - gonna order a 3D-printed numpad and see how I like the case. For those that have gotten 3D-printed cases before, how is the texture on them? If I want it real real smooth, would doing a light pass with some fine-grit sandpaper work? Or are the grooves from the additive/layered printing process too deep to get out without serious work? Maybe sanding and then a topcoat of something sprayed/brushed on?

Also, semi-related - switch reccomendations? I rather like Kailh Pro Purples but wanna experiment a bit. I'm ordering from RNDKBD and would like to get my switches in one order. The Boba switches are supposedly pretty nice, right?

ijyt
Apr 10, 2012

If its a resin print, you might not have to worry about sanding. If it's FDM, then depending on how obvious the layers are, some filler and light sanding should do the trick.

I AM GRANDO
Aug 20, 2006

Does Drop have some random sampling of keycaps at a huge discount every weekend? They’ve done it for the past three weeks.

LionArcher
Mar 29, 2010


A restock of ikk68 and 68 parts is due to launch in a few hours. 4PM Eastern. This stuff both works with version 2 and version one. They don't get stocked often, and for budget 68's, I have not heard one that sounds better.

https://mech.land

I consider the V1 to sound and feel only slight less premium than the freaking Mode Sonnet I have (my main board and Endgame board.)

Other than getting more Sonnet parts (maybe a second board as a back up, a few more top colors and extra PCB) the ikki (unless I grab an Envoy) is the only board I want to actually type on regularly.

teraflame
Jan 7, 2009
Are model F worth getting? For reference my fav switch is orange alps.

3D Megadoodoo
Nov 25, 2010

ijyt posted:

Something for the low-profile fans: https://electronicmaterialsoffice.com/



I like how the knob completely ruins the design.

Wizard of the Deep
Sep 25, 2005

Another productive workday
There are a lot of "interesting choices" in that design. Yea, the knob is, by itself, the height of the keyboard again. But why is the Escape key so big? And why are they wasting all the space on the right margin besides the arrow key? Why are the numbers so big in relation to literally every other character on the board?

The Grumbles
Jun 5, 2006
It looks Vaporwave as gently caress and I love it. The knob, the number keys, everything. It should come with a free crate of Fiji water.

hailthefish
Oct 24, 2010

looks like a bad skeumorphic UI from 2003

3D Megadoodoo
Nov 25, 2010

The Grumbles posted:

It looks Vaporwave as gently caress and I love it. The knob, the number keys, everything. It should come with a free crate of Fiji water.

No it doesn't. :confused:

It looks more like Shitblecch :mmmhmm:

The Grumbles
Jun 5, 2006

hailthefish posted:

looks like a bad skeumorphic UI from 2003

Yeah. That’s why it’s good.

3D Megadoodoo
Nov 25, 2010

Come to the Winamp keyboard in fifteen minutes if you want an rear end kicking.

change my name
Aug 27, 2007

Legends die but anime is forever.

RIP The Lost Otakus.

Keychron Q3 Pro was just announced and it looks... sick? Especially the silver model?
https://www.keychron.com/products/keychron-q3-pro-qmk-via-wireless-custom-mechanical-keyboard

repiv
Aug 13, 2009

looks cool but it'll be a real pain to get matching keycaps for those wide macro keys

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


Oh hey it's the keyboard I've been chasing after

3D Megadoodoo
Nov 25, 2010

It would be cool if it had the standard layout and all the letters of thr alphabet.

Cornuto
Jun 26, 2012

For the pack!
Got a new desktop and my first mechanical keyboard to go with it -- keychron C2 in retro colors. After a couple days I dont think I am a mechanical keyboard fan. Are there any good wired white fullsize non clacky keyboards out there. Basically looking for something like a Logitech k650 but wired.

Cornuto fucked around with this message at 03:41 on May 10, 2023

Deviant
Sep 26, 2003

i've forgotten all of your names.


3D Megadoodoo posted:

It would be cool if it had the standard layout and all the letters of thr alphabet.

i'm not sure i'm seeing what's wrong with the layout/alphabet? am i having a stroke?

Llamadeus
Dec 20, 2005

Deviant posted:

i'm not sure i'm seeing what's wrong with the layout/alphabet? am i having a stroke?
He's referring to it not being ISO layout (even though it does come in ISO)

teraflame
Jan 7, 2009

Cornuto posted:

Got a new desktop and my first mechanical keyboard to go with it -- keychron C2 in retro colors. After a couple days I dont think I am a mechanical keyboard fan. Are there any good wired white fullsize non clacky keyboards out there. Basically looking for something like a Logitech k650 but wired.

Leopold FC980C

Unsinkabear
Jun 8, 2013

Ensign, raise the beariscope.





teraflame posted:

Leopold FC980C

I knew what this was going to be before I searched that model number (and I'm glad, it's a good answer).

But gently caress, someone make a real Topre (NiZ/Plum doesn't count) in 75% already. :negative:


Edit: Possible second answer for OP, so I'm at least contributing something to the conversation: didn't someone link a tactile switch a while back that was supposed to be as quiet/quieter than Bobas without any dampeners? I don't remember what the specific design sorcery was, just the claim. Did anyone try those? Dropping those in a barebones kit might fit the bill more cheaply, if the Leopold isn't within budget.

Unsinkabear fucked around with this message at 04:18 on May 12, 2023

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Dimestore Merlin
Jul 14, 2007

Obey your Spider-Lord

Unsinkabear posted:

I knew what this was going to be before I searched that model number (and I'm glad, it's a good answer).

But gently caress, someone make a real Topre (NiZ/Plum doesn't count) in 75% already. :negative:


Edit: Possible second answer for OP, so I'm at least contributing something to the conversation: didn't someone link a tactile switch a while back that was supposed to be as quiet/quieter than Bobas without any dampeners? I don't remember what the specific design sorcery was, just the claim. Did anyone try those? Dropping those in a barebones kit might fit the bill more cheaply, if the Leopold isn't within budget.

Haimu Whisper is the tactile, Heartbeat is the linear.

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply