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phosdex
Dec 16, 2005

If I had bought new and had the choice, I would have gone with the Deep Blue. But the used market is basically all grey, red, white.

Everybody waves at me when I drive this thing.

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mobby_6kl
Aug 9, 2009

by Fluffdaddy

phosdex posted:

If I had bought new and had the choice, I would have gone with the Deep Blue. But the used market is basically all grey, red, white.

Everybody waves at me when I drive this thing.
As they should!

MrLogan posted:

Bring back winning blue, Mazda you cowards.
Whatever blue this is, please




Besides giving my baby a wash (a pretty traumatic experience if you have rust and various battle scars) yesterday, today I finally replaced two bulbs that have been out for a few months.



The LEDs are clearly brighter (on the right side, speedometer, oil) but not too bad and can easily be dimmed. I was a bit worried because the larger ones I got were rather pinkish red by themselves but here they look fine. No clips were broken :grin:

Small ones behind the LCD: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003294293483.html
Larger ones for other baclight: https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005003337740377.html

Dameius
Apr 3, 2006

MrLogan posted:

Bring back winning blue, Mazda you cowards.

MetaJew
Apr 14, 2006
Gather round, one and all, and thrill to my turgid tales of underwhelming misadventure!
Does anyone here have the Paco or Aurora seat rails on their ND? I found a guy who will sell me the driver side Paco rails for $110 shipped, so I'm tempted to give those a try. I'm sure if I hate them I could resell them for what I paid.

The Aurora rails seem nice as far as adjustability goes, but they've never responded to any of my emails. Being almost $500 I'm kind of annoyed to give them money when they won't even publish the installation instructions to see just how hard of a job it is.

mobby_6kl posted:

As they should!

Whatever blue this is, please


This must be subconsciously why I have been wanting to wrap my car in a pearl mint or blue.

Olympic Mathlete
Feb 25, 2011

:h:


Installed a little LED voltmeter in the car a while back and glanced down at it on the way in to see I'm getting just over 12.5v running where it was previously 14.5v. Parts cannon fired because the battery is barely 3 months old.

Also acquiring new PCV valve and grommet in an attempt to rule out a potential reason why I still have an oil leak.

Car problems suck poo poo.

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


Olympic Mathlete posted:

Installed a little LED voltmeter in the car a while back and glanced down at it on the way in to see I'm getting just over 12.5v running where it was previously 14.5v. Parts cannon fired because the battery is barely 3 months old.

Also acquiring new PCV valve and grommet in an attempt to rule out a potential reason why I still have an oil leak.

Car problems suck poo poo.

i mean generally older cars have issues that need replacing (not sure how old yours is)

Did you verify your volts with not just the mysterymeat volt meter?

Olympic Mathlete
Feb 25, 2011

:h:


Unfortunately the in-car voltmeter shows exactly the same number as the proper one. Started the car up to drive home and it was sat at 14v for a while then halfway home I noticed it was up and down with revs (from 12.3v to 15.2)which suggests the rectifier is no longer rectifying correctly, right?

Jonny 290
May 5, 2005



[ASK] me about OS/2 Warp
That's a little loose on the regulation, not totally dead but I would definitely look deeper into it, yes. Generally i never see > 14.6v with good revs on my vehicles

Cat Hatter
Oct 24, 2006

Hatters gonna hat.
Just take your car to your favorite auto parts store and they'll hook a fancy computer up to your battery and tell you if your alternator is good or not for free.

... Assuming it isn't in a mood that day.

blk
Dec 19, 2009
.
Did anyone ever come out with a seat lowering solution for NA/NBs besides foamectomies or bolting an aftermarket seat to the floor?

MetaJew
Apr 14, 2006
Gather round, one and all, and thrill to my turgid tales of underwhelming misadventure!
Any of y'all consider installing the Cerys Oil Air Separator on your ND?

The installation seems like a pain in the rear end to reach the PCV or whatever other lines you need to access behind the intake manifold and against the firewall. On the other hand, carbon buildup on intake valves, long term, is dumb and bad.

Virgil Vox
Dec 8, 2009

MetaJew posted:

The Aurora rails seem nice as far as adjustability goes, but they've never responded to any of my emails. Being almost $500 I'm kind of annoyed to give them money when they won't even publish the installation instructions to see just how hard of a job it is.

They are notoriously cagey about their products, I wanted one of their bars but b/c the lack of documentation and instructions I went with Hard Dog.



MetaJew posted:

Any of y'all consider installing the Cerys Oil Air Separator on your ND?

The installation seems like a pain in the rear end to reach the PCV or whatever other lines you need to access behind the intake manifold and against the firewall. On the other hand, carbon buildup on intake valves, long term, is dumb and bad.

I was able to get my phone down there and tack a picture so as to kinda see where to place my fingers; it took maybe ~15-20 min of feeling and reach around. I just hoped they are attached securely; the drain/out hose of my separator fell off causing a vacuum leak, zip tie that one. (I think mine is the mishimoto)

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


it's also real good to spend 20bux and get one of them lovely amazon endoscopes so you can see what's going on in tight spots easily

SpartanIvy
May 18, 2007
Hair Elf

MetaJew posted:

Does anyone here have the Paco or Aurora seat rails on their ND? I found a guy who will sell me the driver side Paco rails for $110 shipped, so I'm tempted to give those a try. I'm sure if I hate them I could resell them for what I paid.

The Aurora rails seem nice as far as adjustability goes, but they've never responded to any of my emails. Being almost $500 I'm kind of annoyed to give them money when they won't even publish the installation instructions to see just how hard of a job it is.


I have the Aurora seat rails, but I haven't gotten around to installing them yet :effort:

If you want a copy of the installation manual, PM me your Email and I'll send you a copy. They will only send you a copy once you purchase the seat rails because of ~company secrets~ or some bullshit. As if their competitors wouldn't just buy one from them if they cared anyway.

MetaJew
Apr 14, 2006
Gather round, one and all, and thrill to my turgid tales of underwhelming misadventure!

SpartanIvy posted:

I have the Aurora seat rails, but I haven't gotten around to installing them yet :effort:

If you want a copy of the installation manual, PM me your Email and I'll send you a copy. They only will send you a copy once you purchase the seat rails because of ~company secrets~ or some bullshit. As if their competitors wouldn't just buy one from them if they cared anyway.

Absolutely boomer logic. I'll PM you my email in a few minutes.

I purchased a pair of used paco seat rails from a guy on Miata.net (I may have already mentioned this) for $110 shipped so I figure if I hate them I can probably resell them for what I paid.

Virgil Vox posted:

They are notoriously cagey about their products, I wanted one of their bars but b/c the lack of documentation and instructions I went with Hard Dog.

I was able to get my phone down there and tack a picture so as to kinda see where to place my fingers; it took maybe ~15-20 min of feeling and reach around. I just hoped they are attached securely; the drain/out hose of my separator fell off causing a vacuum leak, zip tie that one. (I think mine is the mishimoto)

The Verus unit is a little spendy but so far every bit of work I've done on the Miat has been pretty easy so maybe I'll just go ahead and do it.

Good idea about an endoscope or camera!

Phone
Jul 30, 2005

親子丼をほしい。

blk posted:

Did anyone ever come out with a seat lowering solution for NA/NBs besides foamectomies or bolting an aftermarket seat to the floor?

i think there's a german company makes a solution. it's like z something? 3 or 4?

Phone
Jul 30, 2005

親子丼をほしい。

MetaJew posted:

Any of y'all consider installing the Cerys Oil Air Separator on your ND?

The installation seems like a pain in the rear end to reach the PCV or whatever other lines you need to access behind the intake manifold and against the firewall. On the other hand, carbon buildup on intake valves, long term, is dumb and bad.

is this actually an issue or is it hysterics on mnet?

MetaJew
Apr 14, 2006
Gather round, one and all, and thrill to my turgid tales of underwhelming misadventure!

Phone posted:

is this actually an issue or is it hysterics on mnet?

It was sort of an issue on the MS3 DISI motor? But maybe the more modern skyactiv engines are better about carbon buildup on the intake valves?

TrueChaos
Nov 14, 2006




blk posted:

Did anyone ever come out with a seat lowering solution for NA/NBs besides foamectomies or bolting an aftermarket seat to the floor?

What kind of a solution are you looking for, getting the stock seat lower down? I haven't seen anything for that. There are a bunch of floor drop kits available, and you could probably get a shop to modify the stock rails to work with those kits, but that's about it. I don't think there's much of a market for it though, I think most people trying to get lower in the car are doing so for performance driving related reasons, and are generally good with bolting in a race seat or foamectomy because they need to use the stock seat for classing reasons.

Phone
Jul 30, 2005

親子丼をほしい。
the MS3 DISI motor was one of the first mass produced direct injection engines on the market... along with VW and BMW. on the other hand, the skyactivs keep the head toasty to prevent carbon build up and there's a rather sophisticated built-in oil separator in the intake tract already.

i did some poking around and afaik MZR != Skyactiv and it's mostly forum warriors doing battle over THIS CAN HAPPEN TO YOU!!! using lazy rhetoric.

googled for "vw direct injection build up" and found this reddit thread and pic: https://www.reddit.com/r/GolfGTI/comments/11f50tq/carbon_buildup_at_60k_2013_mk6_for_the_same/


the best this thread on mnet could do was link to an engineering explained video (which happened on post #3 of a 7 page thread lol): https://youtu.be/yOQtbwyFV4g?t=424 and https://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?p=10448702p


i'm positive that some sort of walnut blasting is required eventually, but eh. it falls into the same bucket for me as buying a black car and getting upset that it takes 5 seconds after washing it for it to be dirty; literal tilting at windmills stuff.

e: oh yeah, on page 4 or 5 someone pointed out that the catch can thing for NDs was perpetrated by a vendor who was using pics of an MZR

Phone fucked around with this message at 23:15 on May 11, 2023

blk
Dec 19, 2009
.

TrueChaos posted:

What kind of a solution are you looking for, getting the stock seat lower down? I haven't seen anything for that. There are a bunch of floor drop kits available, and you could probably get a shop to modify the stock rails to work with those kits, but that's about it. I don't think there's much of a market for it though, I think most people trying to get lower in the car are doing so for performance driving related reasons, and are generally good with bolting in a race seat or foamectomy because they need to use the stock seat for classing reasons.

Gotcha, thanks. Yeah, I have a tall torso and never really fit in my NA8. hosed up my hips doing a foamectomy. It’s just for street driving so I wouldn’t want to chop up the car - was just wondering if I could make one of the older cars work for me right now due to budget (I fit in NCs and NDs OK).

MetaJew
Apr 14, 2006
Gather round, one and all, and thrill to my turgid tales of underwhelming misadventure!

Phone posted:

the MS3 DISI motor was one of the first mass produced direct injection engines on the market... along with VW and BMW. on the other hand, the skyactivs keep the head toasty to prevent carbon build up and there's a rather sophisticated built-in oil separator in the intake tract already.

i did some poking around and afaik MZR != Skyactiv and it's mostly forum warriors doing battle over THIS CAN HAPPEN TO YOU!!! using lazy rhetoric.

googled for "vw direct injection build up" and found this reddit thread and pic: https://www.reddit.com/r/GolfGTI/comments/11f50tq/carbon_buildup_at_60k_2013_mk6_for_the_same/


the best this thread on mnet could do was link to an engineering explained video (which happened on post #3 of a 7 page thread lol): https://youtu.be/yOQtbwyFV4g?t=424 and https://forum.miata.net/vb/showthread.php?p=10448702p


i'm positive that some sort of walnut blasting is required eventually, but eh. it falls into the same bucket for me as buying a black car and getting upset that it takes 5 seconds after washing it for it to be dirty; literal tilting at windmills stuff.

e: oh yeah, on page 4 or 5 someone pointed out that the catch can thing for NDs was perpetrated by a vendor who was using pics of an MZR

Cool info. I was trying to find details about the Skyactiv head temps and carbon deposits-- I found one post referencing it on a Mazda forum (where vendors were trying to sell catch cans and scare people).

I had also seen the Engineering Explained video-- and yeah, that carbon buildup was minor. It's probably a non issue for the next 10+ years of ownership.

One thing I will say: I've never encountered a shop that specifically talks about doing walnut blasting/intake valve cleaning on Mazdas. Maybe it's not a very complicated job to DIY, but when I was trying to find a shop to do it on my MS3 I was only finding Audi/BMW specialty shops. Is the service becoming more common?

Joe Mama
May 10, 2008
As an owner of a Skyactiv Mazda 6 I will just say that the valves will need to be cleaned anywhere from 60-75k miles depending on the oil you use. Better oil=the longer they stay clean. The car actually lets me know by getting a slightly rough idle and losing 1-2 mpg. The biggest bitch is that the intake ports are pretty deep and the valves are fairly small. I've been using the GDI cleaner and long stainless pipe brushes in the drill and shop-vaccing the spooge out. But a custom walnut blast tube/nozzle and a custom shop-vac adapter would be a drat dream. Just blasting the GDI cleaner into the intake tube with the engine running, per the instructions, will just result in a manifold full of GDI cleaner that the engine will swallow and hopefully not hydrolock the engine. It would work better on an engine where the manifold is on top and the runners head mostly downhill.

MetaJew
Apr 14, 2006
Gather round, one and all, and thrill to my turgid tales of underwhelming misadventure!

Joe Mama posted:

As an owner of a Skyactiv Mazda 6 I will just say that the valves will need to be cleaned anywhere from 60-75k miles depending on the oil you use. Better oil=the longer they stay clean. The car actually lets me know by getting a slightly rough idle and losing 1-2 mpg. The biggest bitch is that the intake ports are pretty deep and the valves are fairly small. I've been using the GDI cleaner and long stainless pipe brushes in the drill and shop-vaccing the spooge out. But a custom walnut blast tube/nozzle and a custom shop-vac adapter would be a drat dream. Just blasting the GDI cleaner into the intake tube with the engine running, per the instructions, will just result in a manifold full of GDI cleaner that the engine will swallow and hopefully not hydrolock the engine. It would work better on an engine where the manifold is on top and the runners head mostly downhill.

It just so happens Corksport made a media blaster + vacuum fitting.

https://corksport.com/valve-cleaning-kit-for-mazdaspeed-3-mazdaspeed-6-and-mazda-cx-7.html

Virgil Vox
Dec 8, 2009

I mean there's no harm to a catch can right? I drain maybe a few times a year and get like maybe an eight of a cup. I figure I'm buying time at least, at worst a potential failure point.

Edit: todays cruisin...

Phone
Jul 30, 2005

親子丼をほしい。

MetaJew posted:

It just so happens Corksport made a media blaster + vacuum fitting.

https://corksport.com/valve-cleaning-kit-for-mazdaspeed-3-mazdaspeed-6-and-mazda-cx-7.html

Mzr

Joe Mama
May 10, 2008
I think it might still work on a skyactiv but I would definitely use some stainless tubing to create a long nozzle to get down in there to the back of the valve.

Phone
Jul 30, 2005

親子丼をほしい。
It might also not work or even exacerbate the “problem”. Put $400 into a CD or something and get your valves blasted at 75k or 90k miles.

The engine and the ECU are very sophisticated, but they somehow missed the carbon deposits on the intake despite the first hand experience with the MZR DISI motor?

Joe Mama
May 10, 2008
It's not a big deal unless you forget to roll the crank over by hand and make sure the valves are closed.

MetaJew
Apr 14, 2006
Gather round, one and all, and thrill to my turgid tales of underwhelming misadventure!
I installed the Paco seat rails in my ND today. Not a pleasant experience. Putting the rails on the seat itself is pretty simple and took maybe 20 minutes, but the new revised rail means you can't slide the seat forward enough once installed to easily access the rear bolts that hold the rails and seat to the floor pan.

As a result I struggled for almost an hour to thread those bolts and eventually asked my wife, who has much smaller hands, to help. She got the bolts threaded in, in 10 seconds.

Once that was in I learned that I had tightened the bolts holding the seat to the rails too tight to slide the seat to the right distance so that involved more swearing and busted knuckles.


With that in, the new seating position does seem lower and perhaps a little more comfortable because the rear of the seat is now lower than the front. It feels like I now have additional thigh support. I haven't had a chance to drive it yet but it also gave me some improved visibility out of the windshield so I'm happy so far.

I'm betting the Aurora rails are little less of a pain in the rear end to install into the car, but after reading through the installation instructions, the cutting they have you do to the factory seat hardware looked like a huge pain in the rear end (and I'd need to buy a grinder).

tactlessbastard
Feb 4, 2001

Godspeed, post
Fun Shoe
Finally had the opportunity to drive my brother in law’s Mazdaspeed NB and…literally couldn’t drive it. I can’t let the clutch out with the door closed because there’s not enough room between the steering wheel and the door :argh:

Wibla
Feb 16, 2011

I fired up my 10AE after 20 months of it sitting yesterday. It was pretty grumpy until I got some miles into a drive. Time for inspection soon, and it needs a fair bit of TLC this year.

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


tactlessbastard posted:

Finally had the opportunity to drive my brother in law’s Mazdaspeed NB and…literally couldn’t drive it. I can’t let the clutch out with the door closed because there’s not enough room between the steering wheel and the door :argh:

This is why you remove the dumbass door armrest.. infinity space.

MetaJew
Apr 14, 2006
Gather round, one and all, and thrill to my turgid tales of underwhelming misadventure!
There's an Italian guy that manufactures steering wheel hub spacers to move the wheel closer to you, which might make the driving position more comfortable as well.

Or the ND2, which has the telescoping wheel.

Edit: https://949racing.com/product/steering-spacer-99-05-miata-mx5/

This product. I think SuperMiata is the US distributor but I had contacted the manufacturer a few years ago about a hub for my MS3 cause I got long legs but the wheel still felt too far aware when doing long drives, leading to discomfort in my upper back.

MetaJew fucked around with this message at 19:10 on May 16, 2023

tactlessbastard
Feb 4, 2001

Godspeed, post
Fun Shoe
All well and good but I'm not going to modify my brother's car lol

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


Sounds like you're not committed to the Miata lifestyle of cutting hair.

mobby_6kl
Aug 9, 2009

by Fluffdaddy

tactlessbastard posted:

All well and good but I'm not going to modify my brother's car lol

Well then have a surgeon shorten your leg(s) instead :colbert:

Olympic Mathlete
Feb 25, 2011

:h:


3rd Miat image is super cute!

https://twitter.com/AntonyWrites/status/1660015424040255489?t=96OTKTkoh46EjogQBImOPQ&s=19

phosdex
Dec 16, 2005

Had my nd2 for 2 weeks now, put 1000 miles on it. Kinda wondering how much power loss I'm seeing due to altitude at 6500-7500 ft. If I keep this past warranty I can see adding a turbo. Still fairly clunky at getting going, and I can't smooth out the 1st to 2nd shift unless I go really slow.

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Jonny 290
May 5, 2005



[ASK] me about OS/2 Warp
slip 1-2 a bit more than you think, and slip 2-3 a bit less. Anyways you're down about 20% power from sea level (here in denver we're down ~15% on NA motors).

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