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Hmm, ABS pricing seems to be linked to whether it's printed on desktop or industrial FDM machines. Just need to figure out the exact settings to land on the right printer, I guess? Whole lotta places wanting to charge $100+ for 40 grams of FDM ABS, which seems excessive.
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May 8, 2023 19:49
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ryanrs posted:Hmm, ABS pricing seems to be linked to whether it's printed on desktop or industrial FDM machines. Just need to figure out the exact settings to land on the right printer, I guess? You need to stop looking at professional services and start looking for "some guy with a printer in his basement"
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May 8, 2023 19:59
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NewFatMike posted:I think you’re right on the money with build volume opportunity cost as opposed to part volume. As demand has increased lately, I’ve seen folks readjust their print pricing in that way. Do you know any brokers or shops that have Stratsys SAF with online quotes? I don't think I've seen it offered before (or sites call it something else?).
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May 8, 2023 20:00
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ryanrs posted:Hmm, ABS pricing seems to be linked to whether it's printed on desktop or industrial FDM machines. Just need to figure out the exact settings to land on the right printer, I guess? Last time I used a Stratasys machine they were charging $270 for 1kg of ABS in their special DRM cartridge, so,
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May 8, 2023 20:32
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Nerobro posted:This discussion keeps coming up. And you're all right. I think you're right, I forget where (might have been this thread) but I also saw some posts to the effect of TPU and PETG being much more vulnerable to getting moist than PLA, I've even seen posts saying that it's not even an issue for PLA (???) but there's so much variety even in just one type of material it seems random from my limited experience. Like I got two spools of PolyTerra at the same time and one of them is basically my favorite filament ever and the other one I had to return because it printed like poo poo, they both had the same rigidness/diameter/etc. for sure too. Anyway that grey Hatchbox is starting to make some popping/crackling sounds intermittently this morning even though after use I've been putting it back in a ziploc bag with a lot of dessication bits so I guess an actual dryer box is indeed in order here. But extrusion seems to be the main problem. So not long after I got this I replaced the stock plastic one with Creality's all metal one and maybe it just didn't make enough of a difference for the other filaments I was using but as it turns out, the spring in the new kit is quite a bit stiffer and a different length from the one in the stock kit. I didn't compare them directly and just thought that was what the new extruder needs. I put the stock spring in and got a much better result on the extrusion front. I'm a total newcomer to this stuff but is the lack of direction and consistency on upgrades like this this inconsistent or is it a Creality thing? When I first saw the difference I looked at a couple of YouTube videos and it seems like people don't even all assemble this thing the same way or leave parts out? I feel like the only actual good information on anything comes from like very far back Amazon reviews (where I noticed other people mentioning the spring issue upon further research), old reddit posts, and this thread. And comparing both of those springs, the one that came with Creality's upgraded all metal extruder makes it impossible for the extruder arm to actually align or apply tension correctly. Pretty disappointed with that honestly. I noticed they make a more expensive direct drive setup for it instead of using a tube but I don't know if I trust that after this lol, plus it seems like it still has quite a bit of plastic in its gears/etc. which I thought getting rid of was the whole point of upgrading this stuff. I'm not going to act like I don't enjoy tinkering with this stuff to a point but dang. The other real time consumer with the Pro for me is setting the Z offset. Like I looked at the CR Touch's instructions for that, looked at some videos of people doing it differently, neither process really works on this printer. As far as I can tell the printer is assembled correctly, and I've printed things from it successfully, but like if I do the paper test to level the bed as an example, if I get it to the point where there's some resistance on the paper, and use that difference as the z offset, it's low enough to grind into the build plate. If I do this other method of having it auto home and then adjusting the z axis from there to get the offset, it's way too high because even with the offset set at zero, auto homing on this printer places the nozzle quite a distance from the surface. The other weird behavior is that sometimes after a print or aborting a print it just, like, it's like the z-motor just straight up dies but not really? The gantry moves the extruder of to the side and then it just plummets freely, but the motor isn't really dead, I can turn the rod to get the nozzle above the surface and then tell it to auto home or move the axis however and it immediately responds. So like what is happening here? How is it able to both auto home and have bed level/offset data from the CR touch that it uses successfully, but then suddenly thinks 0 is as far down as physically possible? I removed the Z limit from the side when installing the CR Touch, but if that's the problem then this would have been happening as soon as I did that and not just recently, and also the CR Touch instructions specifically say to remove it to so that's not it I assume? So when I change filaments with an auto leveler the method ends up being to take an educated guess and hope it doesn't destroy the surface when you run a print, then make minor adjustments from there. But is that really all there is to it? If that's the case that's fine I'm not trying to make it more complicated than it is, but I feel like I go around in circles when trying to looks up specific info for issues like this. Have to admit I wasn't expecting to get into this, the Pro was given to me by a friend a couple of months ago because they weren't using it but it's making me think about saving up to get a Prusa at some point. On the other side with resin printers, not getting one any time soon if ever but I notice this one is often on sale for sometimes $350, is that good? https://www.anycubic.com/products/photon-mono-x-6k
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May 8, 2023 21:44
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ryanrs posted:Do you know any brokers or shops that have Stratsys SAF with online quotes? I don't think I've seen it offered before (or sites call it something else?). If you’re in the states, off the top of my head there’s GoEngineer and AdvancedTek — both resellers that have print service bureaus. Probably going to be on the pricier side compared to Hubs, Protolabs, and Xometry but it might not hurt.
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May 9, 2023 15:26
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Neo Rasa posted:On the other side with resin printers, not getting one any time soon if ever but I notice this one is often on sale for sometimes $350, is that good? I have the Photon Mono X and waited for a similar sale. It's a pretty good printer. Only complaint I have is that it has wireless physically in it but it does not work with WiFi for file transfer, only for their remote management app which I think sucks nuts and don't use at all. This is an industry-wide complaint though, nobody seems to be interested in incorporating WiFi file transfer directly in to their printers without going for the thousand plus dollar models. Not sure why that is but oh well.
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May 9, 2023 16:47
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bird food bathtub posted:I have the Photon Mono X and waited for a similar sale. It's a pretty good printer. Only complaint I have is that it has wireless physically in it but it does not work with WiFi for file transfer, only for their remote management app which I think sucks nuts and don't use at all. This is an industry-wide complaint though, nobody seems to be interested in incorporating WiFi file transfer directly in to their printers without going for the thousand plus dollar models. Not sure why that is but oh well. Good to know, I'll keep this one in mind if I go for it. I noticed that about the WiFi, I figured the Ender-3 Pro was just older for not having it and was surprised looking at other 3D printers how it's generally not a thing for so many. Is it done assuming you'll have some controller or a long USB cable instead? Or some kind "just enough" limit to make it slightly less convenient for unofficial firmware/etc. modification stuff to be done or something? Maybe they want to completely avoid the possibility of someone accessing someone else's printer and printing Goastsce 24/7 or something.
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May 9, 2023 17:47
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Until relatively recently, 3d printers were mostly controlled by 8-bit arduino microcontrollers that really don't have enough horsepower to do anything except translate gcode into motor movements. It's only with the more widespread adoption of 32-bit boards that we've seen wifi become more common. Mostly, people use Octoprint/Octopi to get wifi on their older printers.
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May 9, 2023 17:56
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Neo Rasa posted:
Pretty much any newish gen printer will be fine. Personally I like elegoo, the Saturn 2/mars 3 have a layer of glass between the LCD and the vst which will save you longterm because the screen won't break if/when you have a nasty failure
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May 9, 2023 17:56
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bird food bathtub posted:This is an industry-wide complaint though, nobody seems to be interested in incorporating WiFi file transfer directly in to their printers without going for the thousand plus dollar models. Not sure why that is but oh well. I'm pretty sure it's because all of these machines use microcontrollers, rather than full blown CPUs, which are much much weaker in terms of processing power. Actually sending/receiving files over wifi would take far more horsepower than these little chips can handle, so it's only good enough to use for control signals.
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May 9, 2023 17:57
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w00tmonger posted:Pretty much any newish gen printer will be fine. The one linked has that too I think, it comes with a screen protector installed and a spare in the box Presumably so that when you puncture the film because you're a dummy the resin doesn't cure to the screen bird food bathtub posted:I have the Photon Mono X and waited for a similar sale. It's a pretty good printer. Only complaint I have is that it has wireless physically in it but it does not work with WiFi for file transfer, only for their remote management app which I think sucks nuts and don't use at all. This is an industry-wide complaint though, nobody seems to be interested in incorporating WiFi file transfer directly in to their printers without going for the thousand plus dollar models. Not sure why that is but oh well. I saw I can only get the app if I sideload it and that felt like a lot of extra effort I didn't want to do. I assume it doesn't do anything beyond telling me if it's printing?
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May 9, 2023 18:53
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Anyone tried Protopasta? They have neat colors, but their prices are fairly high. I don't know if they're worth it.
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May 9, 2023 19:39
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Failson posted:Anyone tried Protopasta? They have neat colors, but their prices are fairly high. I don't know if they're worth it. I've bought a few of the 500g spools at Micro Center. It's good quality and the colors are really nice in person, but yes, very expensive, especially for a full kg. If you want the specific colors or materials (I haven't tried their metal-infused filaments, but I hear they're good), it might be worth it.
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May 9, 2023 19:46
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Len posted:The one linked has that too I think, it comes with a screen protector installed and a spare in the box So went to check and afaik they're not quite the same. The linked one has a screen protector which is a good minimum, but then immediately below that is the masking LCD which can crack of pressure gets out on it (disasterious pressure from a failure, or just wear and tear) The Saturn 2/mars 3 have a screen protector,but also a physical piece of glass between the vat and LCD that's much stronger and won't break. Leaks are going to happen, but moreso the disasters are when the screens cracked because something gets knocked off the buildplate in a weird way and jams itself down onto the screen w00tmonger fucked around with this message at 21:02 on May 9, 2023 |
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May 9, 2023 20:28
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w00tmonger posted:So went to check and afaik they're not quite the same. This is good info and definitely makes me lean towards the Saturn. I know I kind of shat on Creality before and I've asked this before but are their resin printers actually any good? I never see them talked about much anywhere. Is there any reason to definitely get the same wash/cure machine as the printer one is getting or can you just get anything as long as it can handle the size of what you printed? Neo Rasa fucked around with this message at 22:25 on May 9, 2023 |
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May 9, 2023 21:58
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Oh man, a fella I’m working with asked me to help him get quoted out for a Form 3+ and Form Auto. That poo poo rules so hard.
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May 10, 2023 00:51
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 by proxy, that's awesome
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May 10, 2023 00:52
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Anycubic is supposedly going to drop a 12k printer that requires no leveling. We will see! Supposedly according to 3DP they had the launch page up early but took it down.
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May 10, 2023 02:39
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IncredibleIgloo posted:Anycubic is supposedly going to drop a 12k printer that requires no leveling. We will see! Supposedly according to 3DP they had the launch page up early but took it down. Im still waiting for the tech to show up that removes layers. I know there was an Australian company that had a patent on oxygen permeable feps, but my guess is there were a ton of issues with the process. Neo Rasa posted:Is there any reason to definitely get the same wash/cure machine as the printer one is getting or can you just get anything as long as it can handle the size of what you printed? Not really afaik. Ive running a few printers at scale and escalated to running the curing half of elegoos light curing setup, and an ultrasonic cleaner with simple-green for washing A ton of the printers/curing stations are all made by chitu anyways, can only assume they come out of the same factory. regardless, they'll all have the same UV bands for curing. w00tmonger fucked around with this message at 06:28 on May 10, 2023 |
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May 10, 2023 06:24
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Neo Rasa posted:Is there any reason to definitely get the same wash/cure machine as the printer one is getting or can you just get anything as long as it can handle the size of what you printed? At least with the elegoo setup, the build plates will drop directly into the wash stations with no mods needed, like it includes a little bracket to mount the plate on, or the basket is perfectly sized for the plate to sit on top etc
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May 10, 2023 06:54
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bird food bathtub posted:I have the Photon Mono X and waited for a similar sale. It's a pretty good printer. Only complaint I have is that it has wireless physically in it but it does not work with WiFi for file transfer, only for their remote management app which I think sucks nuts and don't use at all. This is an industry-wide complaint though, nobody seems to be interested in incorporating WiFi file transfer directly in to their printers without going for the thousand plus dollar models. Not sure why that is but oh well. For resin printers, it's because almost all of the resin printer manufacturers are really just taking the off the reference ChiTu Systems design from CBD-Tech (who also make chitubox) with very little room for additional features. This same lock in is why the chitbox pro encrypted file thing was possible. The people who don't use chitu* are a very short list, don't benefit from the economies of scale, and have to do a lot of expensive engineering. Then they pass those costs along to you. BadMedic posted:I'm pretty sure it's because all of these machines use microcontrollers, rather than full blown CPUs, which are much much weaker in terms of processing power. Actually sending/receiving files over wifi would take far more horsepower than these little chips can handle, so it's only good enough to use for control signals. eh. not really. The duet / reprap firmware ecosystem was running a very nice web front end capable of ethernet or wifi since like 2015. Now, you can say things like, the duet was based on the arduino due, which was a 84mhz controller, and not the 16mhz atmega. Or you can comment that wifi esp8266 actually has a full 80mhz processor dedicated to it alone. Both of these are still tiny compared to modern computers, or even a rpi like. Also, to be pedantic, a microcontroller is a full cpu + memory + peripherals (timers, gpio, tranceivers, etc). People tend to throw it around as a term for arduino alikes, but that does some of the chips in this category a real disservice. Even when the arduino was new, the base chip itself was slow for a uC. In 2007 (so contemporary with the Arudino Diecimila, the first widely available one) there was the pic32, a 32bit chip at 80mhz. Everyone knows your meaning though, I just wanted to rant a bit. Thanks for reading. I think it's probably technically achievable to stick a 8266 on a ramps, and make wifi transfers with acceptable performance. I found some discussion from 2014 from people talking about the glacial performance of using USB to put gcode onto the sd card. The effort looks like it petered out about the fact that they really wanted a chip with native usb to get full benefit, but that development would have left out most people who would have been using boards with usb to serial chips. I also think the real thing that prevented it from happening is that the octoprint solution solves network enabled printing, does other things that are much much harder (camera), and is still cheap. It'd be of interest to people like me who just have the aesthetic pleasure of seeing something working with minimal requirements. For most users, put it on a dedicated computer is fine, and for most firmware developers improved printing would be a better use of their efforts.
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May 10, 2023 07:01
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Elegoo is having a Mother's Day sale, which I just kind of find funny. Not what I typically think of as a mother's day gift.
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May 10, 2023 15:24
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I think my crafty artist mom would have loved to experiment with a 3d printer if she were still around 
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May 10, 2023 16:05
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NewFatMike posted:I think you’re right on the money with build volume opportunity cost as opposed to part volume. As demand has increased lately, I’ve seen folks readjust their print pricing in that way. Speaking of increased demand, my JLC support rep is telling me their FDM ABS capacity is maxxed out, so I should specify resin for all my orders, and put a note in the comment section re. FDM. Then they will intercept my orders and force them into the FDM queue, ha ha. I'm super curious what sort of parts make up most of the volume at large commercial 3D printing farms.
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May 10, 2023 19:22
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Welp, today was the day I came into a mess. [edit - picture]  Believe it or not, the mess has gotten bigger, in the metaphorical sense. I've mentioned this bastard printer a couple times in the thread before. It's a GCreate GMax 2. It runs some flavor of Marlin firmware. I'm not the first one in, and my coworker has already turned the printer off, so I go to turn it on, thinking at least maybe I can heat up the nozzle and get some of the plastic off. The power supply kicks on, I see the BLTouch do it's little initialization, but the LCD screen doesn't come on. Not good. Okay, I think, I'm probably going to want to put in a support ticket to get faster answers than fussing with it myself, so I got to Gcreate's site.... and they shut down operations literally last week. Well, their support was never great, but that really puts me in an awkward spot. With some additional experimentation, here is what I have figured out: 1) I'm probably going to just remove the hot end from the heater block down and replace everything. At least it's mostly standard E3D stuff. The one noteable bit is I know they used a higher wattage heater than the standard. 2) The Control board will come on if I connect via USB. However, I can't get any response from stepper motors or the heaters when I use commands from the menus. 3)The power supply is probably not the point of failure for the above. I grabbed another power supply to test, and I'm getting the same results. 4) My suspicion is that I've had some components fail internally. I've done a cursory lookover of the internals, but I don't see any obvious signs of disaster - no black marks, no lingering electronic burn smells. At the very least, it looks like this was built using mostly off-the-shelf parts - I believe the driver board is some version of the RAMPS board, with Pololu stepper drivers. Any suggestions on what to do next? It feels like this is salvageable, but I anticipate it will be tedious. Fanged Lawn Wormy fucked around with this message at 15:23 on May 11, 2023 |
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May 11, 2023 14:58
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Holy poo poo, I am pretty sure it's not safe to allow the hotend to even turn on in that state. How did the plastic get into the heatsink like that!?
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May 11, 2023 15:35
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Fanged Lawn Wormy posted:1) I'm probably going to just remove the hot end from the heater block down and replace everything. At least it's mostly standard E3D stuff. The one noteable bit is I know they used a higher wattage heater than the standard. Is it a 12v system or 24v system? I think you should just use a standard heater cartridge rather than worrying about their special higher wattage heater. quote:2) The Control board will come on if I connect via USB. However, I can't get any response from stepper motors or the heaters when I use commands from the menus. Does the control board have any fuses? Because quote:3)The power supply is probably not the point of failure for the above. I grabbed another power supply to test, and I'm getting the same results. Can you see 12 or 24v coming from the power supply using a multimeter? It's sounding like your control board is toast quote:4) My suspicion is that I've had some components fail internally. I've done a cursory lookover of the internals, but I don't see any obvious signs of disaster - no black marks, no lingering electronic burn smells. At the very least, it looks like this was built using mostly off-the-shelf parts - I believe the driver board is some version of the RAMPS board, with Pololu stepper drivers. Post a picture of the control board and maybe we can find a drop in replacement for you e: holy poo poo that thing might be actually running a mega+ramps combo mewse fucked around with this message at 16:10 on May 11, 2023 |
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May 11, 2023 16:06
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Fanged Lawn Wormy posted:Welp, today was the day I came into a mess. I have nothing helpful to say, but that output is art. What do you want for the glob? I'll use it as a robot head. I'm not kidding.
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May 11, 2023 16:44
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Ah yeah - Should have mentioned that - it definitely is a Mega2560-based system. Pulling things apart a little more, the board is a RAMPS 1.4A shield. It does not appear to have a fuse anywhere. Photo of the control area opened up a bit:  I believe it is a 12V E3D Chimera. Looking at an old tech support email, they moved from the original 30 watt heater cartridge to a 50 watt to "help maintain hotend temperature [as well as heat up-time]". The power supply is an ATX supply, so it makes it difficult to easily test because it must be plugged in for some of the outputs to work. I'll fuss more with it later this afternoon. Failson posted:I have nothing helpful to say, but that output is art. What do you want for the glob? I'll use it as a robot head. I'm not kidding. Edit: At this point, I'm also considering how much time + effort I want to put into this to fix it; if it were my own, I probably would. But we have to consider how many hours I want to clock on fixing this vs just going a new direction. I've always had issues with this printer - but my other one is a markforged, so I've always been a bit spoiled. Biggest issue has usually been that the dual extruder always seems to be a bit oozy, and is a pain to align after changing nozzles. We've used it primarily as a 1-nozzle printer for the last year or so. The print volume is enormous - 18"x18"x24" ish, IIRC, but much bigger than we ever have really needed. I could easily get a 12"x12" bed and cover 99% of our needs. Also worth noting is that GCreate came out with "Pro" version of this about a year ago that uses a 32bit processor instead. I had been thinking about trying the upgrade kit but never got around to it. Welp. Fanged Lawn Wormy fucked around with this message at 17:26 on May 11, 2023 |
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May 11, 2023 17:16
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A4 Steak Sauce posted:Holy poo poo, I am pretty sure it's not safe to allow the hotend to even turn on in that state. How did the plastic get into the heatsink like that!? that's just a hotend death blob, it honestly happens a lot with fdm, especially knockoff e3d stuff. Fanged Lawn Wormy posted:4) My suspicion is that I've had some components fail internally. I've done a cursory lookover of the internals, but I don't see any obvious signs of disaster - no black marks, no lingering electronic burn smells. At the very least, it looks like this was built using mostly off-the-shelf parts - I believe the driver board is some version of the RAMPS board, with Pololu stepper drivers. Toss the ancient crappy control board, replace it with something decent and modern. if you have a rasp pi lying around get an skr pico and run klipper.
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May 11, 2023 17:17
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Fanged Lawn Wormy posted:Welp, today was the day I came into a mess. Often times control boards will light up with 5v power from USB due to poor power seperation on boards.. I actually have a power blocker on my USB port on my klipper PC to prevent this. Unless it's powered on at the PSU you're not going to get those steppers etc to move because they're getting power from the PSU which is not on.
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May 11, 2023 18:22
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Fanged Lawn Wormy posted:Ah yeah - Should have mentioned that - it definitely is a Mega2560-based system. Pulling things apart a little more, the board is a RAMPS 1.4A shield. It does not appear to have a fuse anywhere. Nifty. I just wanted to try and grab it in case it would be thrown out. Hail glob.
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May 11, 2023 18:48
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Fanged Lawn Wormy posted:Ah yeah - Should have mentioned that - it definitely is a Mega2560-based system. Pulling things apart a little more, the board is a RAMPS 1.4A shield. It does not appear to have a fuse anywhere. The large flat orange square thing in the upper right corner is a thermal fuse. Basically all ramps boards have them instead of fuses.
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May 11, 2023 19:16
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Fanged Lawn Wormy posted:2) The Control board will come on if I connect via USB. However, I can't get any response from stepper motors or the heaters when I use commands from the menus. tater_salad posted:Often times control boards will light up with 5v power from USB due to poor power seperation on boards.. I actually have a power blocker on my USB port on my klipper PC to prevent this. I learned this last week when I discovered my Ender 3 thinks it can be powered by USB! I couldn't figure out why Octoprint was just restarting when I hit print until I realized the room was suspiciously quiet and I hadn't turned the power supply on. Oops.
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May 11, 2023 23:11
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Don't tell the power company about that one weird trick they hate where you rapidly move your stepper motors back and forth and generate current. Don't do this.
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May 11, 2023 23:18
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I'm about to attend an official Prusa users group meetup in Seattle. Mostly because there is about a 1 in 300 chance of winning a MK4. Anything in particular any of you would like me to try to find out about?
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May 11, 2023 23:45
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Yes.. how do I get a free prusa Mk4?
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May 12, 2023 00:56
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Anticipated release schedule for PrusaSlicer 2.6?
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May 12, 2023 01:01
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IncredibleIgloo posted:Anycubic is supposedly going to drop a 12k printer that requires no leveling. We will see! Supposedly according to 3DP they had the launch page up early but took it down. Is there a reason to go as high as 12K beyond the visuals like is there some fine work or mechanical application getting something that detailed in resin is good for? Is super precise dental stuff the main thing?
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May 12, 2023 02:21
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