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Motronic posted:If you have sufficient slope throw a pop up emitter on them and sink it to ground level. No more tripping on them or mowing around them. drat, wish I'd found one of these before I cobbled a drain line under my patio out to the yard. Dug a quickie French drain, dropped in a 4x4x4 PVC box in a sideways-T configuration so it would drain into the ground first but open at grade with a grate in case of heavy rain. Not sure there is sufficient slope to open that, though...12' run, maybe 5" drop. That looks slick, though
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May 8, 2023 20:54
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Cool NIN Shirt posted:The slit in the membrane at the corner looks like it’s dribbling water directly on the rotting joists. Extending the membrane to go over the joists all the way to the concrete so the water never touches the wood would hopefully prevent further rotting. Really the joists need to get replaced but I’m sure you’re aware. Yeah, the damaged joist and top plate under the joist are being replaced. I can’t really “extend” the membrane. I wonder if blueskin brought up under the membrane overhang and down to the concrete would do it. I still feel like it needs some kind of kickout flashing. The split corner is where I pulled it apart. It was overlapped and sealed there before. There is a retractable awning over the deck, and it is slightly smaller than the deck, so directs water right onto the rail posts and paneling. I’d like to move the railing out further so attaching to the concrete won’t work. I guess anything I move off and away from the existing structure will have to reach the ground and get a footing in the ground.
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May 8, 2023 23:32
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Have a DIY drain that I'd like to make a little more permanent. At the end of our driveway the water pools when it rains. At the *other* end of our driveway, by our house, there's a little drainage culvert that takes all the water away. But it wasn't quite draining so, before we own the house, the neighbors dug a little trench to let the water at the street collect into the culvert and drain away. It totally works but I'd like to make it look a little nicer and bury it. Supply wise it seems easy enough, drain pipes with a catch basin at the street side. But are there any tips'n'tricks to ensuring the long trench stays downward sloping all the way to the culver?   edit: Ok so IMGUR is just a completely worthless site now? Won't work for me. Can't edit images. On the off chance the image DOES load to edit... there's two different editors and you can get to them through different means? One is like a "Crop/rotate" editor and one is a meme maker style thing? And neither save. The "crop/save" editor will only load correctly 1 out of 10 tries and then says it saves the crop but the image remains unchanged once I exit the editor (and yes I click "apply" then "save"). The meme style editor won't work. If I click save it just say "image too big" (even if I made *zero* changes). What a shame. What are IMGUR alternatives? BonoMan fucked around with this message at 21:23 on May 9, 2023 |
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May 9, 2023 20:55
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Had a break in yesterday in the detached garage. Between the fact they damaged the door and stole the mower, the damage doesn't really meet the insurance deductible even with tax and labor. Gonna have to replace the knob, but could I avoid replacing the door by removing the busted wood, gluing in a pine block, and hammering the metal back into shape? The door is supposed to be the weakpoint so that they don't break a window. Hence no deadbolt. 
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May 10, 2023 16:01
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I can't remember what they're called but they make those security plates that are just a metal sleeve that goes around there, you could probably fit one of those and have the rest all work
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May 10, 2023 16:11
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BonoMan posted:But are there any tips'n'tricks to ensuring the long trench stays downward sloping all the way to the culver? The photos make it look like there is much more fall than you'd strictly need. Clean up the bottom of the trench so it's relatively smooth and use a 6 foot level. Make sure the bubble is at least touching the line on the upslope side of the level all the way down. That's about a 2% slope. Smooth walled PVC or ABS only needs about 1% to drain well, unless we're talking about extreme volumes of water.
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May 10, 2023 17:12
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Xenix posted:The photos make it look like there is much more fall than you'd strictly need. Clean up the bottom of the trench so it's relatively smooth and use a 6 foot level. Make sure the bubble is at least touching the line on the upslope side of the level all the way down. That's about a 2% slope. Smooth walled PVC or ABS only needs about 1% to drain well, unless we're talking about extreme volumes of water. The photo is a little misleading (I didn't take one from the side like a newbie), if you're looking at it it looks pretty flat. In fact I wasn't even sure it was going to drain properly when the neighbor told me about her digging it. But should definitely be able to get enough of that slope... thanks!
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May 10, 2023 18:33
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Opopanax posted:I can't remember what they're called but they make those security plates that are just a metal sleeve that goes around there, you could probably fit one of those and have the rest all work Worked great, thanks! edit: it didn't fit over the bent door, but I was able to crush it all back into place with some c clamps, and the security plate mostly hid the tool marks. esquilax fucked around with this message at 19:12 on May 10, 2023 |
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May 10, 2023 18:49
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I am building a pergola, and I thought I might put in a swinging bench on one side. I have two 12ft pressure treated 6x6 in the ground 3ft with cement, 12ft apart. Thinking about putting a 16ft 6x6 on top, with a 2 ft overhang on each side, and attach it with some strong L brackets (red arrows).  From a previous project to chain my dog while I fixed our fence, I bought "Blue Hawk 20-ft Welded Zinc Plated Steel Chain" -> Safe working load 6,600lbs Hehehe, oops, that was overkill for my dog, and will be overkill for this project, but at least I won't have to buy a new chain. Searching through Lowes, the metal hooks say "not for loads". What can I use to attach this chain to the overhead 6x6, so that the bench can swing?  I probably need the hook to support 3 people, so at least 600lbs + the chain + the bench, so 800-1000lbs total? Fozzy The Bear fucked around with this message at 22:29 on May 10, 2023 |
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May 10, 2023 22:22
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Fozzy The Bear posted:I am building a pergola, and I thought I might put in a swinging bench on one side. I'd think you'd want two eye bolts that have a shank long enough to go through the 6x6 (so like 8") and then a washer and locking nut for each to secure it. I'm sure McMaster-Carr has something appropriate that can handle that load.
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May 10, 2023 22:58
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esquilax posted:Worked great, thanks! Nice. Also has the added advantage of making it harder on them next time
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May 10, 2023 23:41
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Beef Of Ages posted:I'd think you'd want two eye bolts that have a shank long enough to go through the 6x6 (so like 8") and then a washer and locking nut for each to secure it. I'm sure McMaster-Carr has something appropriate that can handle that load. Perfect, thanks. Do you think 3/8th inch will be a thick enough bolt?
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May 11, 2023 00:28
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Interjection: please read up on the difference between static & dynamic loads, and then understand that your load rating for your fasteners & hardware needs a safety margin of, say, 3x maximum dynamic load.
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May 11, 2023 00:36
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Leperflesh posted:Interjection: please read up on the difference between static & dynamic loads, and then understand that your load rating for your fasteners & hardware needs a safety margin of, say, 3x maximum dynamic load. Yeah, overbuild this poo poo. The marginal difference in cost is trivial, and it buys you peace of mind and a hedge against damage (e.g. due to being out in the weather 24/7). Plus, there's a certain satisfaction to getting to work with really heavy-duty equipment.
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May 11, 2023 00:40
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Fozzy The Bear posted:Perfect, thanks. Do you think 3/8th inch will be a thick enough bolt? As noted by Leperflesh and TooMuchAbstraction, overbuild for this. I should clarify that I am absolutely not a structural engineer and the physics of doing this stuff correctly can be more complicated than laypeople such as ourselves realize. Thus, I would go whole hog and at least double what you think you'll need; I'd do a 1/2" shank at a minimum.
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May 11, 2023 00:50
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Just as one example. Let's assume someone gingerly sits on the swing, careful not to sit down too hard, and then holds very still. Great, the load is their weight. Now they start to swing. This increases the dynamic load, immediately, because they are adding centripetal force to the mix. Moreover, the load is no longer directly down: it is shifting at an angle. Now, a child runs up, takes a flying jump, and lands on the swing as it's swinging, adding not only their weight but also the force of their deceleration as they stop moving in one or more vectors, suddenly. The dynamic load increases by some multiple of the child's weight! Plus the swing twists, because they landed off center... a bunch of the load shifts, placing more than half of it on one of the two hooks. You can see how this gets super complicated quickly. The point being if you expect 800lbs of people to sit on the swing, the dynamic load is going to be more than that, perhaps by a lot... and then you need to multiply that by a safety factor. The better approach is to let someone else do all that math physics and material science poo poo and buy equipment that is already determined to be safe for a specific application, by engineers. For example, this porch swing hardware set is rated for 750lbs, and you'll note it has springs! Springs are a great option because they spread the instantaneous force of maximum load (sitting down hard, for example), reducing the maximum force exerted on the fasteners. There's lots of options. Pick a trustworthy brand, rated for way more than you expect to support, and install according to the directions. I greatly prefer this option over just buying eye bolts and hoping they're strong enough. Leperflesh fucked around with this message at 01:22 on May 11, 2023 |
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May 11, 2023 01:20
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Leperflesh posted:I greatly prefer this option over just buying eye bolts and hoping they're strong enough. Thanks everyone! I found a 3/4 inch thick eye bolt and its only rated for 675 lbs, since I would be using two of them probably work, but I'll look for something else. I'll do more research. At least my chain is rated for 6,600 lbs Fozzy The Bear fucked around with this message at 01:46 on May 11, 2023 |
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May 11, 2023 01:44
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Leperflesh posted:Just as one example. Let's assume someone gingerly sits on the swing, careful not to sit down too hard, and then holds very still. Great, the load is their weight. Now they start to swing. This increases the dynamic load, immediately, because they are adding centripetal force to the mix. Moreover, the load is no longer directly down: it is shifting at an angle. Now, a child runs up, takes a flying jump, and lands on the swing as it's swinging, adding not only their weight but also the force of their deceleration as they stop moving in one or more vectors, suddenly. The dynamic load increases by some multiple of the child's weight! Plus the swing twists, because they landed off center... a bunch of the load shifts, placing more than half of it on one of the two hooks. This is the way.
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May 11, 2023 01:52
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Maybe I should take this straight to the wiring thread, but I'd like a sanity check: I had a GFCI-AFCI breaker trip, and bad burning electrics smell come from the Eaton panel in my 2016-built house. Only one breaker tripped. It is able to be reset, doesn't immediately trip again, and its red LED flashes out the code for a ground fault. I verified that pressing the "test" button causes it to trip again, so the breaker isn't completely dead. The burning smell was really pretty bad. I'm leaving that specific breaker off for tonight, but keeping the rest of the power on. I'm not putting my family in danger by keeping the rest of the breakers on so that we have power in the house tonight, right? I'm going to call an electrician tomorrow.
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May 11, 2023 02:48
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Fozzy The Bear posted:Thanks everyone! https://www.mcmaster.com/products/eyebolts/thread-size~3-4-10/eyebolts-with-nuts-for-lifting/ https://www.mcmaster.com/products/shackles/screw-pin-shackles-for-lifting/ For the shackles, make sure not to side-load them. They should be installed like a U with the pin at the bottom or top (I think the bottom is correct but it's bee a while since I did any rigging) not a sideways U. A 3/4" eye bolt with 675lb capacity is some serious pot metal or some poo poo. Don't use that.
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May 11, 2023 03:17
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:If you don't want to get a kit, something like these are what you want: I'm sure those are quality, but $38 for each item is a bit high?
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May 11, 2023 05:46
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Fozzy The Bear posted:I'm sure those are quality, but $38 for each item is a bit high? A bit. I think you'd be more than ok with 5/8" rated for 4000lb each, e.g. https://www.grainger.com/product/KEN-FORGING-Machinery-Eye-Bolt-With-Shoulder-19L051 Also these are plain steel, not galvanized or plated, and you'll need nuts. Grainger tends to be a bit less expensive than mcmaster, although mcmaster often has the best selection. Here's Grainger's full selection: https://www.grainger.com/category/fasteners/bolts-screws/eye-bolts-rod-ends/eye-bolts?categoryIndex=1 and here's McMaster's much larger selection: https://www.mcmaster.com/products/eyebolts/eyebolts-for-lifting-8/
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May 11, 2023 06:16
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esquilax posted:Had a break in yesterday in the detached garage. Between the fact they damaged the door and stole the mower, the damage doesn't really meet the insurance deductible even with tax and labor. I would remove the lockset, slather the exposed wood in white or wood glue, throw a couple wood scraps on either side, crank it tight with c-clamps, use wet paper towels to pick up the ooze. Then install the new internals, and the steel wrap-around cover plate, then the knob/lockset. E: well done, dir
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May 11, 2023 16:40
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esquilax posted:
Does this reasoning make sense? Either way they’re getting in and replacing an exterior door is more expensive than repairing a single/double hung window. Maybe if it’s a picture window? Either way, well done
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May 11, 2023 16:58
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Fozzy The Bear posted:I am building a pergola, and I thought I might put in a swinging bench on one side. You want forged eye bolts that go all the way through the beam and secure with a nut and washer on the other side. McMaster Carr or Fastenal would have the pieces you need. For the specific math and size of bolts needed consult an engineer.
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May 11, 2023 18:47
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The bench will only be 18" off the ground, someone could break their rear end but it's not exactly life and death here. Anecdotal I know, but I've hung my bench in 3 different houses just putting 1/2" x 4" lag eye bolts into a rafter and never had so much as a creak from it. Hell, the hooks on the bench itself are less substantial than the ones I put into the rafters. In Pittsburgh every other porch has ancient painted-over eye lag bolts in the rafters that clearly used to hold a swinging bench. If you want to be full spec then buy hardware labeled for swinging benches, presumably an engineer has done the math for you and it seems like the easiest solution. But if you just use beefy hardware store eye bolts you will probably be in the company of 90% of swinging bench users.
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May 11, 2023 18:57
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As long as they bolt all the way through the beam and have closed eyes yes you will probably be fine. If they are lag bolts with eyes or have open eyes run far away regardless of whether they're labeled as porch swing hardware or not.
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May 11, 2023 19:01
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Cool NIN Shirt posted:Does this reasoning make sense? Either way they’re getting in and replacing an exterior door is more expensive than repairing a single/double hung window. Maybe if it’s a picture window? I don't know if it's actually right or if it's just a myth, but I've had multiple people tell me to not use a deadbolt for that reason. It could easily be a foolish example of "duh, you reinforce the plane where the bullet holes show up!" This was definitely a lot easier to deal with than broken glass. PainterofCrap posted:I would remove the lockset, slather the exposed wood in white or wood glue, throw a couple wood scraps on either side, crank it tight with c-clamps, use wet paper towels to pick up the ooze. I used wood scraps on the inside face to prevent damage but was having trouble bending back the outside using scraps - I wasn't getting enough direct pressure on the metal to deform it back. Maybe I could have cranked it harder with the wood there, but a little ugliness isn't the worst. esquilax fucked around with this message at 19:26 on May 11, 2023 |
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May 11, 2023 19:17
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kreeningsons posted:How would you find the inlet of a yard drain that you’ve only found the outlet to? I checked during a rain storm and there is no visible outflow. BonoMan posted:edit: Ok so IMGUR is just a completely worthless site now?
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May 11, 2023 19:42
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Does anyone have a recommendation for an extremely high quality exterior caulk? Ok paying extra. I need to caulk where the vinyl siding meets a concrete slab, and I need it to last. And hopefully look ok, it is at the front of my house. Yes, it is weird that the siding is meeting a slab. I don't want to talk about it.
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May 13, 2023 20:42
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I'm thinking your best bet is probably a one part polyurethane - Vulkem, NP1, Sikaflex, etc.
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May 14, 2023 00:33
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OSI Quad is what I see the pro siding/windows guys use around here
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May 14, 2023 16:41
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I have some weird rear end tree in my front yard that I need to do something with. When we moved here 7 years ago, it was all weeping something-or-other. Fast forward and I don't know what the hell is going on. I don't really know how this happened, but over the past few years, the back half of the tree no longer has branches like it used to have and all of the "weeping" portions of the tree are dead. Can I just cut the dead portions out or will that cause further harm. I remember my dad cutting branches off healthy trees that were getting into siding or wiring, but this tree doesn’t look super healthy to start with. Any suggestions? 
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May 14, 2023 16:42
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Jenkl posted:Does anyone have a recommendation for an extremely high quality exterior caulk? Ok paying extra.
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May 14, 2023 17:09
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Kirk Vikernes posted:I have some weird rear end tree in my front yard that I need to do something with. When we moved here 7 years ago, it was all weeping something-or-other. Fast forward and I don't know what the hell is going on. I don't really know how this happened, but over the past few years, the back half of the tree no longer has branches like it used to have and all of the "weeping" portions of the tree are dead. Can I just cut the dead portions out or will that cause further harm. I remember my dad cutting branches off healthy trees that were getting into siding or wiring, but this tree doesn’t look super healthy to start with. So the weeping part was grafted onto the rootstock. For whatever reason, the grafted on part weeping part has died and what you have left is the rootstock. Looks like some sort of cherry or maybe birch to me. You can cut off all the dead stuff but you’re gonna have a weird looking lopsided tree. I think your time/money would be better spent in cutting it down and planting a new tree. It doesn’t look super healthy overall and it’ll probably start to rot from where you cut the dead stuff off (if it hasn’t already).
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May 14, 2023 17:14
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Kaiser Schnitzel is dead-on. Nitpick: the rootstock is unlikely to be birch (different genus) but some form of cherry or plum is the likeliest.
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May 14, 2023 19:21
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:So the weeping part was grafted onto the rootstock. For whatever reason, the grafted on part weeping part has died and what you have left is the rootstock. Looks like some sort of cherry or maybe birch to me. You can cut off all the dead stuff but you’re gonna have a weird looking lopsided tree. Aren't weeping cherries pretty invasive? Not sure where I'm remembering/misremembering that from
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May 14, 2023 23:34
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Put the terrifying, half-dead frankenstein tree out of its misery IMO.
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May 15, 2023 01:36
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I have this hole in my floor from the old radiator pipe. Short of replacing the floorboards with new hardwood, is there a rubber stopper type thing I could use to fill it?
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May 15, 2023 18:03
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Cool NIN Shirt posted:I have this hole in my floor from the old radiator pipe. Short of replacing the floorboards with new hardwood, is there a rubber stopper type thing I could use to fill it? I used a cork when I was in the role of previous owner. Very neat fit, but color matching treatment didn't take. Currently I would probably go with drilling it out at the diameter of some wooden dowel I can find for sale and glue it in.
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May 15, 2023 18:15
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