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actionjackson posted:I'm not sure if it's supposed to be that way or not, but I thought that it if it was locked, it would be impossible to open from the inside without unlocking that thumb lock I have these on my addition doors. They are called emergency exit handlesets, and they open from the inside even when the deadbolt is engaged. Possibly your model is the same? Baldwin Hardware 6401.003.RFD Devonshire Emergency Exit Lockset
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May 21, 2023 13:09
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mr.belowaverage posted:I have these on my addition doors. They are called emergency exit handlesets, and they open from the inside even when the deadbolt is engaged. Possibly your model is the same? maybe? i locked it, went outside and hopped onto my patio, and was able to open the door by pushing down hard enough, so i'm going to call them tomorrow edit: just talked to pella, the whole multipoint lock needs to be replaced. i'm sure that won't be cheap actionjackson fucked around with this message at 16:45 on May 23, 2023 |
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May 21, 2023 15:41
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I came back home from a vacation a few weeks ago to find a small puddle of water at the bottom of my bathroom vanity. Maybe 1/4 cup or so. I dried everything off and checked for leaks. I found that there was moisture coming off the hot line where the pipe from the wall connected to the flex hose going to the faucet. I tightened this down just a little bit with a wrench, maybe 1/4 turn. Dried everything off, checked a few hours later, still dry. I checked again yesterday and it was wet to the touch in the exact same spot. I want to be sure to not overtighten that connection, but should I give it a little more oomph and tighten some more? It doesn't seem to matter if the hot tap is used or not. I don't know if any tape was used on the connection previously as I did not disassemble that connection. Is there anything else I might have missed?
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May 23, 2023 17:13
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CzarChasm posted:I came back home from a vacation a few weeks ago to find a small puddle of water at the bottom of my bathroom vanity. Maybe 1/4 cup or so. I dried everything off and checked for leaks. I found that there was moisture coming off the hot line where the pipe from the wall connected to the flex hose going to the faucet. I tightened this down just a little bit with a wrench, maybe 1/4 turn. Dried everything off, checked a few hours later, still dry. I checked again yesterday and it was wet to the touch in the exact same spot. I want to be sure to not overtighten that connection, but should I give it a little more oomph and tighten some more? It doesn't seem to matter if the hot tap is used or not. I don't know if any tape was used on the connection previously as I did not disassemble that connection. If these are hoses of unknown age I would just replace them. If they aren't replaceable (one end permanently attached to the faucet) then removing, cleaning up the thread and using some tape or pipe dope would be my next try. Be careful with the shut off valve(s) if they are not quarter turn and haven't been closed in a while. They may also start leaking.
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May 23, 2023 17:18
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I replaced a screen door screen with aluminum because our cat scratched the old fiberglass one to hell. The aluminum one lasted longer but is starting to tear at the sides too. I noticed there is a "pet proof" screen that feels the same as the cheap fiberglass ones. I can't imagine how it would be stronger against cats than aluminum; is it?
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May 23, 2023 17:57
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alnilam posted:I replaced a screen door screen with aluminum because our cat scratched the old fiberglass one to hell. The aluminum one lasted longer but is starting to tear at the sides too. I don't think so. And the stuff I got is really dark compared to regular screen or aluminum screen. Not sure how cat proof it actually is as they grew out of climbing up the screens by the time I fixed it.
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May 23, 2023 18:01
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My neighbours helped me out with trimming some tree branches from a tree that fell over across my and my neighbours backyards. I only intended to use the clipper the landlord lent me to clip the smaller branches and leave chainsawing the bigger stuff to the landlord. My neighbours though took a chopper knife and pulled a homer simpson and just... Chopped down the trees with a knife and it was actually faster than the handsaw! 
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May 23, 2023 22:57
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I found that the cubby under my kitchen sink was wet recently and it took me a bit to find the source: the hose going to the pull-down faucet spray head from the faucet mixer was leaking water from a break in the hose. The leak only happens when the hose was pulled down, though. The metal weight on the hose appears to have worn the hose siding down enough over time to cause a break. Am I crazy, or is it impossible to get a replacement hose for just the pull-down spray head? The brand of the faucet/head is indeterminate and not labeled anywhere, but even if I knew the brand it seems Danco is the only company that makes a "universal" replacement and it apparently sucks rear end. Is there any way to repair a braided water hose or do I need to buy a new faucet just to replace one GD hose?
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May 23, 2023 23:27
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alnilam posted:I replaced a screen door screen with aluminum because our cat scratched the old fiberglass one to hell. The aluminum one lasted longer but is starting to tear at the sides too. The "pet proof" screening (which is very dark/black) is very effective; even the most determined cats can't get through it before you notice the fraying. The strands are impregnated fiberglass, such as in glass packing tape. it is extremely tear-resistant.
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May 24, 2023 00:57
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Samadhi posted:I found that the cubby under my kitchen sink was wet recently and it took me a bit to find the source: the hose going to the pull-down faucet spray head from the faucet mixer was leaking water from a break in the hose. The leak only happens when the hose was pulled down, though. The metal weight on the hose appears to have worn the hose siding down enough over time to cause a break. You're solidly in new faucet territory. Welcome to the club. We're not nearly as exclusive as we'd like to be.
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May 24, 2023 04:00
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Alright, I got a mirrored wall I need to take the mirrors off of. It's three mirror panels, around 8 feet tall and 3 feet wide each. The panels are flush with each other and almost flush with the walls and ceiling. Here's how close they get to the wall and ceiling.  How do i get these mirrors off? There must be a simple and safe way to do it, right?
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May 25, 2023 02:19
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Gripweed posted:Alright, I got a mirrored wall I need to take the mirrors off of. It's three mirror panels, around 8 feet tall and 3 feet wide each. The panels are flush with each other and almost flush with the walls and ceiling. Unlikely. Unless there are obvious fasteners they were most likely put up with construction adhesive or similar so they will need to be literally pried and broken off of the wall. I suggest you wear log sleeves, leather gloves, eye protection and a shield over your whole face if possible. And put tarps down to make it easier to clean up. Nothing soft that you want to keep (beds, chairs sofas) should be in the room uncovered at all when you start prying this stuff off. Broken glass/glass chips are just horrible and so hard to get out of everything and anything so don't minimize this. It's not a hard job, but you need to prepare so you don't make problems for yourself later.
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May 25, 2023 02:32
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Why would they do this?
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May 25, 2023 02:35
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Gripweed posted:Why would they do this? Unsurprising answer: super easy and fast to put it up that way. I hope I'm wrong about how it's installed but based on experience and just that little photo....yeah, it's likely. If you can find fasteners or something around the edges of that mirror that you haven't posted pictures of please do.....I really really hope you can prove me wrong for your own sake.
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May 25, 2023 02:38
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Could always dismantle the wall from the other side to get to the back of the mirrors.
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May 25, 2023 02:49
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Motronic posted:Unsurprising answer: super easy and fast to put it up that way. nah it's like that all the way around except on the bottom where there's a metal runner, but there's no visible way to remove that either. I kinda suspected I'd have to smash it, but I was really hoping there was a secret second option. withak posted:Could always dismantle the wall from the other side to get to the back of the mirrors. it's an exterior brick wall
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May 25, 2023 02:52
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I wonder if liberal application of like 7mil tarp onto the glass with lots of tape would "catch" any of it? If you can take out whatever is under the mirrors you could like build chutes out of it into 5gal buckets then start bashing straight onto mirror with a rubber mallet to break it up. Goal would basically be to have the billions of tiny razor sharp shards hit the plastic and slide down into the buckets. At a minimum you should have as much heavy plastic as you can spare to contain it. Shits about to get ugly. I would consider a tyvek suit so you have something to strip off over the long sleeve shirt and pants.
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May 25, 2023 02:57
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Spray adhesive some Kraft paper or plastic to the front? Never done this but maybe it would help? E: the only thing worse than glass shards all over your room might be Super77 overspray all over your room
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May 25, 2023 04:01
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My unprofessional suggestion is buy several rolls of duct tape and cover its entire surface with duct tape before prying, it should help contain shards quite a bit. Also as was said, remove anything soft from the room.
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May 25, 2023 04:16
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If you’re handy with a circular saw, Use a diamond blade, set it to depth and cut it into manageable pieces. The adhesive ought to keep it from shattering into a million pieces that you have to worry about. It’ll be super dusty though so keep that in mind
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May 25, 2023 12:30
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UKJeff posted:If you’re handy with a circular saw, Use a diamond blade, set it to depth and cut it into manageable pieces. The adhesive ought to keep it from shattering into a million pieces that you have to worry about. It’ll be super dusty though so keep that in mind Glass dust sounds like the kind of thing I want nowhere near my home, thank you. If I was going to go this route, I'd want to have a bulletproof dust control system in place. It'd probably involve enclosing the entire area in a "tent" of some kind.
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May 25, 2023 17:10
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I don't think there is anything unusually dangerous about glass sawdust (aka sand). Wear a respirator and vacuum up when you are done and you will be fine.
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May 25, 2023 17:23
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withak posted:I don't think there is anything unusually dangerous about glass sawdust (aka sand). This sentence is wrong in multiple ways
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May 25, 2023 17:26
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How so?
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May 25, 2023 17:43
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withak posted:How so? Glass dust isn't sand, and glass dust causes silicosis.
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May 25, 2023 17:44
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Crystalline silica is dangerous, but the stuff coming out of your cutting tools is not crystalline silica. Unless you have access to some really amazing cutting tools.
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May 25, 2023 17:47
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So these are mirror panels most likely glued right to an exterior brick wall? Or is it on drywall over framing in front of said brick?
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May 25, 2023 17:54
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withak posted:Crystalline silica is dangerous, but the stuff coming out of your cutting tools is not crystalline silica. Unless you have access to some really amazing cutting tools. I wasn't born yesterday, you aren't going to talk me into breathing glass. Jenkl posted:So these are mirror panels most likely glued right to an exterior brick wall? Or is it on drywall over framing in front of said brick? There's drywall between the glass and the brick, I can't confirm framing.
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May 25, 2023 18:07
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withak posted:I don't think there is anything unusually dangerous about glass sawdust (aka sand). Wear a respirator and vacuum up when you are done and you will be fine. So like, yes it's not as dangerous as crystaline silica (googling it seems glass dust is "amorphous silica" which our lungs are able to get rid of) but it's not great either. Plus all the other "lol glass shards" stuff, even if you get really lucky with the tape. https://www.osha.gov/chemicaldata/613
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May 25, 2023 18:20
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Hmmm. I can't actually conceive of a working plan but was trying to go down the road of just removing the drywall. Not fun, but maybe better than glass breathing. Prying that off after cutting though with a knife might be enough to keep it from shattering, with the drywall backing it. Or it shatters anyways. Of course it might just be drywall glues to brick.
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May 25, 2023 18:25
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If this was my project, I'd probably go with a case of clear packing tape to cover the entire thing with a layer of tape. If there's an exposed edge where I can get access to the edge of the glass, I would try to pop some of the glue spots with wooden shims applied at regular spacing along that edge gap. I would then take a hammer and begin to carefully break and remove the mirror in as big of chunks as I could get, using a knife to cut through the tape to carve off chunks of broken mirror. Wear gloves and eye protection and have some buckets or garbage cans to collect and transport the debris, don't use garbage bags. You will get glass and broken shards in the area, so have a vacuum and eventually a mop of some sort for clean up. This will also likely destroy big chunks of the drywall, depending on how the glue was applied. You'll need to either skimcoat ripped spots on the existing drywall or replace chunks of it.
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May 25, 2023 18:31
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Jenkl posted:Hmmm. I can't actually conceive of a working plan but was trying to go down the road of just removing the drywall. Not fun, but maybe better than glass breathing. Prying that off after cutting though with a knife might be enough to keep it from shattering, with the drywall backing it. If the mirror is up there with construction adhesive the drywall is not going to be salvageable anyway. I can guarantee you the drywall is not simply glued to the brick. With the mirror acting as a giant vapor barrier the drywall would have turned to mush and all fallen down by now.
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May 25, 2023 18:31
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And yeah, the way I'd handle this would be to remove the drywall with the mirror still on it. Like others said, apply a lot of tape to the mirrors to keep glass shards from going everywhere. Then cut the drywall with a utility knife around the perimeter, knock a hole in, and start prying. The drywall should be held in by screws (or maybe nails), but you're not going to try to undo those fasteners; just shove the drywall right off. It'll make a ton of plaster dust. Ironically the mirrors may make this step easier because they have more strength than the plaster does. Odds are you won't be able to remove it all as a single piece, but you should be able to minimize the number of pieces this way. You'll be left with bare studs with fasteners stuck into them, which can easily be removed once the drywall's gone. Then you put up new drywall, mud, sand, and paint it.
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May 25, 2023 18:49
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Gripweed posted:I wasn't born yesterday, you aren't going to talk me into breathing glass. Right, normal construction PPE and clean up your mess afterwards and you are good. No need to construct tents or call in the hazmat team. You do need to have extra dust control measures (usually just water) if you are cutting into stuff that can potentially release its crystalline silica (concrete, masonry, ceramics, etc.), but construction tools are not going to be able to turn a pane of normal glass into the kind of crystalline silica that requires more care than usual.
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May 25, 2023 18:52
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Rather than tape to hold the mirror together, get some of that adhesive carpet protection film that's in like 2-3' wide rolls.
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May 25, 2023 19:09
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Just paint the mirror
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May 25, 2023 21:54
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Give that mirror a taste of its own medicine and glue some drywall to it to cover it up 
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May 25, 2023 22:01
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alnilam posted:Give that mirror a taste of its own medicine and glue some drywall to it to cover it up What a surprise for the next guy!
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May 25, 2023 22:03
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alnilam posted:Give that mirror a taste of its own medicine and glue some drywall to it to cover it up Came here to post this
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May 25, 2023 22:17
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alnilam posted:Give that mirror a taste of its own medicine and glue some drywall to it to cover it up 
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May 25, 2023 22:28
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