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NomNomNom
Jul 20, 2008
Please Work Out

TacoHavoc posted:

Hey not to be that guy, but the strain reliefs you used for the three extension cord type cables are not right for that application. First issue is that you have them installed backwards, the philips head screws should be outside the enclosure. Second issue is they're not rated to get wet, and they won't prevent water intrusion into your enclosure. You should be using a waterproof cable gland like https://ceautoelectricsupply.com/product/waterproof-grommets/ of an appropriate size for each cable.

Any idea why the Philips screws should be outside? Makes more sense in my head for them to be sheltered inside where they won't seize.

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That Works
Jul 22, 2006

Every revolution evaporates and leaves behind only the slime of a new bureaucracy


Slugworth posted:

..... Huh? Uh, ok, a little helpful information for you then - You're supposed to get increasingly belligerent when someone corrects you, citing code that you've very definitely misread, but when that's pointed out, you start lying about how actually your local code is different anyway, and also the inspector said doing it your way is better than code.

:hfive:

TacoHavoc
Dec 31, 2007
It's taco-y and havoc-y...at the same time!

NomNomNom posted:

Any idea why the Philips screws should be outside? Makes more sense in my head for them to be sheltered inside where they won't seize.

Because typically the ones I've seen are rated for indoor use only, so seizing isn't an issue. It also puts less moving parts and connector volume inside the box, where you could possibly pinch other wires and screw up box fill calculations.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Anyone have thoughts on wood floors? I’m replacing all the floors in my house as I slowly deal with a bunch of termite damage. I love my current floors, they’re beautiful 2 1/4” rift sawn heart pine which I know I won’t be able to get again:


Unfortunately they are also largely eaten by termites/rotted in large areas and it’s a single floor with no subfloor (this is not unusual in houses of this age around here). The current plan is to cut out the bad areas and replace with 3/4” plywood and use the current floor as a new subfloor. Then probably ice and water shield on that as a vapor barrier, maybe 1/2” ply over that to stiffen things up further, and then nail down the new flooring (and cut down all my doors by 1 1/4”…). The raised height of the floors will actually help a bit. Both my bathroom and kitchen are tile and are an inch or so taller than the current floors.

As far the actual floors, that’s where I’m a bit frustrated. Just from a time and convenience standpoint I definitely am going with prefinished. I really would like to keep them 2 1/4” wide as that’s typical of houses of this age etc, but nobody seems to make engineered floors that narrow. The engineered floors I’ve looked at in showrooms have way more options and also seem to have less prominent bevels on the side which appeals to me. But they are all like 4” wide minimum. These are white oak and the color looks good, but they are solid with no engineered option: https://www.bruce.com/en-us/products/hardwood/waltham/solid-hardwood/c8240.html. I guess solid wouldn’t be the end of the world, but with our high humidity they do tend to buckle in summer. Maybe the ice and water shield will help with that vs. my current no vapor barrier at all situation?

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

Anyone have thoughts on wood floors? I’m replacing all the floors in my house as I slowly deal with a bunch of termite damage. I love my current floors, they’re beautiful 2 1/4” rift sawn heart pine which I know I won’t be able to get again:


Unfortunately they are also largely eaten by termites/rotted in large areas and it’s a single floor with no subfloor (this is not unusual in houses of this age around here). The current plan is to cut out the bad areas and replace with 3/4” plywood and use the current floor as a new subfloor. Then probably ice and water shield on that as a vapor barrier, maybe 1/2” ply over that to stiffen things up further, and then nail down the new flooring (and cut down all my doors by 1 1/4”…). The raised height of the floors will actually help a bit. Both my bathroom and kitchen are tile and are an inch or so taller than the current floors.

Are you sure there's not enough good floor left to do an entire room or two? It would be a goddamn shame to use any of that as subfloor.

Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

As far the actual floors, that’s where I’m a bit frustrated. Just from a time and convenience standpoint I definitely am going with prefinished. I really would like to keep them 2 1/4” wide as that’s typical of houses of this age etc, but nobody seems to make engineered floors that narrow. The engineered floors I’ve looked at in showrooms have way more options and also seem to have less prominent bevels on the side which appeals to me. But they are all like 4” wide minimum.

Prefinished floors are budget options. 2 1/4" wide is neither the cheapest way to manufacture nor the fastest installation so it's really unlikely you would find anything at all like this.

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


Motronic posted:

Are you sure there's not enough good floor left to do an entire room or two? It would be a goddamn shame to use any of that as subfloor.

Prefinished floors are budget options. 2 1/4" wide is neither the cheapest way to manufacture nor the fastest installation so it's really unlikely you would find anything at all like this.
It hurts my feelings too to cover it up but with the layout of my house it’ll definitely look much better if it’s all the same floor.

fknlo
Jul 6, 2009


Fun Shoe
Took the pool cover off yesterday and was greeted with one dead bird floating and 2 more under one of the edges on the deck. I have no clue how the 2 got trapped on the deck. I'll have to put more of the water things on the deck edge to seal it better when I close up this year I guess.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

VelociBacon posted:

There's a lot of options here but I'm so happy with these that I want to share them in case you have them in your area:



I know what you're thinking, it's just another one of those anchors, but because this one specifically doesn't need to bend in half to go through the hole, the thread depth is way greater and they're rated much higher than what you'd typically see. I've been using them all over the place and I get legit excited when I have an excuse to use it.

Sir! You and I already had this conversation In this thread .

brugroffil
Nov 30, 2015


Motronic posted:


Prefinished floors are budget options.

The installed price general comes out in the wash for pre-finished or finished-on-site for most species, at least when we were shopping around a few months ago.

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



fknlo posted:

Took the pool cover off yesterday and was greeted with one dead bird floating and 2 more under one of the edges on the deck. I have no clue how the 2 got trapped on the deck. I'll have to put more of the water things on the deck edge to seal it better when I close up this year I guess.

Time to shock the pool again!

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


brugroffil posted:

The installed price general comes out in the wash for pre-finished or finished-on-site for most species, at least when we were shopping around a few months ago.
Yeah the ballpark estimates I've gotten it seems like prefinished is alot less labor but the materials are generally much more expensive vs. unfinished the materials being less but the labor being a lot more, and of course it wakes alot longer/is much more disruptive. Pre-finished installed seems to come out $1-2 cheaper per square foot, but it depends alot on which type you choose.

What did y'all wind up going with?

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

Psst -- Wanna buy

:) EVERYWHERE :)
some high-quality thread's DESTROYED!

:kheldragar:

We did our first level in white oak a few years ago. Prefinished was the only viable way to get a really hard coating (poly is good, but doesn't hold up to dog nails). After years of abuse from the dogs, yeah, there are scratches all over, but surprisingly, they are just where the grain is pushed down, it doesn't break the factory finish. That poo poo is really hard.

We knew the dogs would have at it, but just figured on refinishing them right before we move, and it'll be fresh floors just like new. One of the great features of real hardwood floors.

Refinishing prefinished floors is more expensive, though. It takes a serious grit with the sander to cut through that layer, so there's extra time in the prep.

brugroffil
Nov 30, 2015


Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

Yeah the ballpark estimates I've gotten it seems like prefinished is alot less labor but the materials are generally much more expensive vs. unfinished the materials being less but the labor being a lot more, and of course it wakes alot longer/is much more disruptive. Pre-finished installed seems to come out $1-2 cheaper per square foot, but it depends alot on which type you choose.

What did y'all wind up going with?

Some sort of beige family 3 1/4" hard maple prefinished. We've got similar pricing from three places on Mirage, Mitis, Mercier, or Lauzen/Expert. They're all Quebec-based mills offering roughly similar colors in similar prices, though Mirage is sometimes priced much higher from what I've seen.

It's part of a larger first floor remodel we won't be starting until around labor day, so nothing finalized yet.

Calidus
Oct 31, 2011

Stand back I'm going to try science!
I have a bunch of 40 year old wooden pella casing windows that open via a crank and arm. Four of them no longer shut easily due the lower corner of window sagging and getting stuck on the lip of frame. The window, the frame or the hardware could have warped over time. I’d try fix this I am going end up buying new windows aren’t I.

Calidus
Oct 31, 2011

Stand back I'm going to try science!
Edit: posting is hard

fknlo
Jul 6, 2009


Fun Shoe

PainterofCrap posted:

Time to shock the pool again!

Yup. I'm in the process of filling it now so I can hook the pump up and get some chemical goodness going.

meatpimp
May 15, 2004

Psst -- Wanna buy

:) EVERYWHERE :)
some high-quality thread's DESTROYED!

:kheldragar:

Dirty motherfucking kitchen sink drain got plugged again. Hasn't happened since 2019, after I dropped the drain as much as I could during renovations in the basement.

The problem? Goddamn designers/builders have the drain running down the wall and 90 under the floor. 15' run and a 90 turn, followed by another 15' run. Total fall over that 30' ? When I first got to it, less than an inch. After I used every bit of space possible? About 1 3/4". Nowhere near goddamned sufficient, but without a complete redesign of the plumbing and refinishing the basement again, no real solution.

No idea what caused the plug, but it took every trick I could throw at it. Snaked from the roof vent. Capped the drain under the sink, capped the roof vent and introduced air pressure. No changes. Never had luck with a snake because there's a T right away and the snake always takes the "up the vent" route.

Finally taped the vent sealed, made a cap for the drain under the sink with a hole in it for air, then gave the bastard some air. Cleared and left me hella pissed off.

Houses, why didn't anyone warn me?

That Works
Jul 22, 2006

Every revolution evaporates and leaves behind only the slime of a new bureaucracy


We did our upstairs mid covid when wood prices were real bad in LVP and honestly it came out wonderfully. Way less upkeep and damage concerns with the big dog etc. Probably just going to do that for flooring anywhere in the house in the future.

MrAmazing
Jun 21, 2005

That Works posted:

We did our upstairs mid covid when wood prices were real bad in LVP and honestly it came out wonderfully. Way less upkeep and damage concerns with the big dog etc. Probably just going to do that for flooring anywhere in the house in the future.

The LVP I used for my townhouse looks good but is very slippery. This means I have to be careful wearing socks inside but also get endless entertainment when the dog gets startled and tries to get up quickly or get enough traction to jump onto the bed.

That Works
Jul 22, 2006

Every revolution evaporates and leaves behind only the slime of a new bureaucracy


MrAmazing posted:

The LVP I used for my townhouse looks good but is very slippery. This means I have to be careful wearing socks inside but also get endless entertainment when the dog gets startled and tries to get up quickly or get enough traction to jump onto the bed.

Good to know. The stuff we have is textured and is no worse to walk on in socks vs the polyurethane finished white oak flooring on the 1st floor. Honestly, I will probably never put hardwood in anything I buy after this stuff. It would be much harder to repair than hardwood ofc, but its also vastly easier to care for and seems to hold up much better to damage etc from the pets. We kept about 50-100 sq ft extra of the same tiles / planks if we do have to patch something in but yeah one day if a big chunk had to be replaced that would be more problematic, but not exactly a simple fix for a hardwood floor either in that regard.

eddiewalker
Apr 28, 2004

Arrrr ye landlubber
I’m leaning the opposite way. I put LVP in our last place and I hated the feeling underfoot. I felt like I was living in an office.

I’m hoping to do hardwood on the main floor, but I’m hoping not to regret it with kids and a dog.

BonoMan
Feb 20, 2002

Jade Ear Joe
I absolutely hate the feel of LVP underfoot as well. My entire house is lined with it and it just feels like walking on concrete.

But it is drat handy for repair and spills etc

Vim Fuego
Jun 1, 2000


Ultra Carp

StormDrain posted:

And get your can of sprayway handy to properly wipe it.

Last night I did a super easy job, mount a TV. Below the TV was am outlet, and a return air grille that I could look into a see three studs. I had a studfinder. I also used a vertical laser pointed centered on a stud.

I missed the stud no less than four times.

I'm also unhappy with where the TV is placed, so I'm just going to switch for zip toggles and center it.

Also the TV has an internal short and won't turn on reliably, a manufacturing defect, so I'll have to return it.

So it goes.

My version of this: I finally finished a desk I built for my wife. I installed a power strip on the wall above the desk so she can plug in her laptop, phone, monitor etc without crawling under it to get to the outlet. The power strip has two mounting holes on the back. I rummage through my bin of misc screws to find something that fits. They are kinda too big for #6 screws, but also just a hair too small for #8 screws. I find a #6 screw with a large head that will fit into the mounting holes and grab in the slots. Of course the only ones I have are 1/2" long, but whatever. It'll work. I find my only two appropriately sized drywall stays that'll actually let these tiny #6 screws bite. I make a mounting template and drill into the drywall. The first one goes fine. I hammer in the drywall stay, screw into it, and it's solid. Of course the second hole is in a stud. Which means I can't use the drywall stay as it bends in the attempt to install it. Also I can't screw directly into the stud because my #6 screw is 1/2" long and the drywall is 1/2" thick. So I grab one of the #8 drywall screws and screw it directly into the stud. The power strip goes up, but it's kinda crooked. I think I didn't get it on one of the screws but at this point it's good enough unless and until it bothers me! I love projects

Vim Fuego fucked around with this message at 23:06 on May 21, 2023

Shifty Pony
Dec 28, 2004

Up ta somethin'


There are two competing truths in any household project: doing it "right" will take forever and involve multiple expensive trips to the store; and there is nothing as permanent as a "temporary" fix.

Illuminado
Mar 26, 2008

The Path Ahead is Dark

TacoHavoc posted:

Hey not to be that guy, but the strain reliefs you used for the three extension cord type cables are not right for that application. First issue is that you have them installed backwards, the philips head screws should be outside the enclosure. Second issue is they're not rated to get wet, and they won't prevent water intrusion into your enclosure. You should be using a waterproof cable gland like https://ceautoelectricsupply.com/product/waterproof-grommets/ of an appropriate size for each cable.

Ok, NOW the outside unit is done. Thanks Again!





Now I just have to spend another 2 or 3 mornings crawling around in my attic before it hits 120°F

w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

Baby's first patio over here. Still deciding on what to pop in firepit wise and tommorow I'm editing it in. With dirt and some clover.

Really happy with how it turned out. Super above board. Polymer sand in the joints, compacted it and everything.

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

w00tmonger posted:

Baby's first patio over here. Still deciding on what to pop in firepit wise and tommorow I'm editing it in. With dirt and some clover.

Really happy with how it turned out. Super above board. Polymer sand in the joints, compacted it and everything.



Looks good, what will end up getting done around the edges? Do you have to worry about the tiles gradually spreading away from each other?

It reminds me of a space telescope mirror, all the hexagons.

w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

VelociBacon posted:

Looks good, what will end up getting done around the edges? Do you have to worry about the tiles gradually spreading away from each other?

It reminds me of a space telescope mirror, all the hexagons.

So, I locked these in with polymer sand and afaik between that,the compactor, and gravel/sand underneath it's not going anywhere.

I put half a tpaber height of sand around the sides which was is place to secure substrate when I was compacting. To finalize it though, i plano. Mulching the back to integrate it into the beds, and dirt/seedtje front to integrate it to the grass.

Planning on clover, probably micro-clover but it's so expensive that I may just find a law mix that hadms it included

That Works
Jul 22, 2006

Every revolution evaporates and leaves behind only the slime of a new bureaucracy


BonoMan posted:

I absolutely hate the feel of LVP underfoot as well. My entire house is lined with it and it just feels like walking on concrete.

But it is drat handy for repair and spills etc

We got some with 1/4” rubber backing and it is pretty nice for sound deadening and feel. I wonder if thats the difference?

More like 3/16”

Kaiser Schnitzel
Mar 29, 2006

Schnitzel mit uns


That Works posted:

We got some with 1/4” rubber backing and it is pretty nice for sound deadening and feel. I wonder if thats the difference?

More like 3/16”

IME it depends a ton what it’s laid on. If it’s put down over a slab (even if it has plywood over the slab) it feels terrible but if it’s on a floor over joists it has some give and feels a ton better. Real hardwood feels better on a slab but if you really want it to be good and comfortable, build a sprung floor over the slab.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter
TV mount update.

I returned the TV, and bought a new one, larger of course, for about $20 more. Before I went to the store I went ahead and fixed the mount and put it where I wanted.

Of course now the newer tv has a different size so it's a little low, and I miscalculated how the full articulated mount would work so it doesn't swing out far enough to really be of any benefit.

So I guess now I have a good reason to mount it a third time.

Edit, it's very much like me to have a serious project that I care about and a fill in project to stay energized with and completely boner the easy one. My tiling is going great and I am pleased with the layout of the shower fixtures. The hole for the shower head lined up exactly. And it's apparently just out of frame so trust me. Also ended with full tiles on top row exactly, no trimming or slivers.

StormDrain fucked around with this message at 16:23 on May 22, 2023

That Works
Jul 22, 2006

Every revolution evaporates and leaves behind only the slime of a new bureaucracy


Kaiser Schnitzel posted:

IME it depends a ton what it’s laid on. If it’s put down over a slab (even if it has plywood over the slab) it feels terrible but if it’s on a floor over joists it has some give and feels a ton better. Real hardwood feels better on a slab but if you really want it to be good and comfortable, build a sprung floor over the slab.

Yeah, definitely on a subfloor as it is on the second floor of the house. I just wanted to talk about it partly because I was so pleasantly surprised with how good the texture and upkeep of it has been.

Kylaer
Aug 4, 2007
I'm SURE walking around in a respirator at all times in an (even more) OPEN BIDENing society is definitely not a recipe for disaster and anyone that's not cool with getting harassed by CHUDs are cave dwellers. I've got good brain!
I installed second-floor Lifeproof LVP and I have no issues with the texture, it doesn't feel slippery, and it's much easier to keep clean than carpet.

It really makes me notice the imperfections in the subflooring though, there are some major ones :doom:

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



That Works posted:

We got some with 1/4” rubber backing and it is pretty nice for sound deadening and feel. I wonder if thats the difference?

More like 3/16”

How about laying snaplock laminate over wall-to-wall carpet?

I had a loss in South Philadelphia where the owners laid their own. Walking on it made me feel really drunk.

mutata
Mar 1, 2003

Plastic tile over waterbed bladder:

Sirotan
Oct 17, 2006

Sirotan is a seal.


The electricians were here today to rewire my kitchen. At one point I asked one of them if they could identify a mystery wire I found during the demo, and the guy just reaches his hand into the wide open panel and roots around to figure out which circuit it went to.

My face, at that moment: :magical:

They were total pros tho and all the 82 year old wiring in my 100sqft kitchen has been ripped out and I am very pleased. All this for the low low price of $5500. :homebrew: :negative:

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

PainterofCrap posted:

How about laying snaplock laminate over wall-to-wall carpet?

I had a loss in South Philadelphia where the owners laid their own. Walking on it made me feel really drunk.

I was in a house where they laid 1/2" sheetrock over the badly scratched up hardwood flooring and then put down either linoleum or tile on top of it depending on which room.

New owner ripped it all out, rented a drum sander and did a hell of a job making those original hardwood floors look amazing.

slidebite
Nov 6, 2005

Good egg
:colbert:

Anyone here have experience laying duradeck or similar membrane products for an above ground deck?

How difficult is it to do? Mom has a 12x20ish wooden deck she wants to get done. She got a quote on the required products from HD (I think) but was thinking of hiring a contractor for the install. If it's a day or two job I might potentially go and do it myself but I've never done anything like that.

Deck itself is brand new and incredibly solid, but would have to put down a plywood/sheet base I'm sure... but not sure of the procedure or how tricky it is to work with.

slidebite fucked around with this message at 16:08 on May 23, 2023

Jenkl
Aug 5, 2008

This post needs at least three times more shit!
Does anything actually work with respect to getting mosquitos to gently caress off?

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Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Jenkl posted:

Does anything actually work with respect to getting mosquitos to gently caress off?

Current conversation in the pest control thread so I don't have to repeat it. Spoiler alert: maybe? Depends on what kind you have.

https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3944991&pagenumber=5#post532028612

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