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If you truly feel it is rich at full throttle, I'd blame the main jet. But if it is stock and you haven't messed with it, I'd check the air filter and cat. If it's really mid throttle, adjust the needle. ![]() If you threw a bunch of ebay parts on, modified the air intake or put a cone filter on, the size of the air cone filter matters, as well as the overall size of the carb being appropriate for the size bike it is on SSH IT ZOMBIE fucked around with this message at 20:19 on May 27, 2023 |
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# ? Jun 7, 2024 00:19 |
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It shouldn’t be that hard to get an oil filter off, right? I got an oil filter wrench but when I try and take this thing off it just slides down and off.
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Define oil filter wrench As for how hard it should be, the real question is how hard can the PO/"mechanic" make it for you? How long is a piece of string? How many grains of sand on the beach?
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CongoJack posted:It shouldn’t be that hard to get an oil filter off, right? I got an oil filter wrench but when I try and take this thing off it just slides down and off. Is it one of the strap type wrenches? Those are useless. Just punch thru it with an 18" Phillips screwdriver and spin the fucker off.
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I've had really good experiences with a 3-finger gripper socket. It tightens around the filter as you spin the wrench to loosen the filter.
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TotalLossBrain posted:I've had really good experiences with a 3-finger gripper socket. It tightens around the filter as you spin the wrench to loosen the filter. This is the way
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Its one of those ones you stick on a socket wrench and it cups the bottom of the oil filter. I went and bought one of those strap ones and that actually worked once it dug into the side of the filter hard enough. Next step after that was going be drilling it and using a screwdriver.
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Those cup ones don't have quite the leverage you get from the three-claw ones mentioned or clamp style ones like this one that's done me right for every filter so far: https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-63600-Oil-Filter-Tool/dp/B0002SR4Q8 The wrenching motion applies inward force as well as turning, so basically if you had enough force you could crush the loving thing to get the level of bite needed to twist it off.
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TotalLossBrain posted:I've had really good experiences with a 3-finger gripper socket. It tightens around the filter as you spin the wrench to loosen the filter. These are good
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Remy Marathe posted:The wrenching motion applies inward force as well as turning, so basically if you had enough force you could crush the loving thing to get the level of bite needed to twist it off. And it happens! Never underestimate the PO/m. A few times I've had to walk the filter base off the seat with a chisel after the canister sheared off, the base gets friction welded to the engine by the sheer awesome power of stupid.
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Ive got a few of those K&N oil filters with the 17mm nut welded on the back. Works great. Every spring I order a handful from Amazon and I’m good till next spring.
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bengy81 posted:Just punch thru it with an 18" Phillips screwdriver and spin the fucker off. This also works on cartridge filters, I once discovered. A new housing cost 60 bux at Volvo. 😅
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Beve Stuscemi posted:Ive got a few of those K&N oil filters with the 17mm nut welded on the back. Works great. I despise those, not because they're bad, but because it encourages muppets to install the filter with a spanner. Then when it's baked in, the nut is too soft and rounded to be useful for removal and tends to just strip out.
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I had to do the screw driver through the filter after I let someone else change my oil the very first time. Never again.
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Slavvy posted:I despise those, not because they're bad, but because it encourages muppets to install the filter with a spanner. Then when it's baked in, the nut is too soft and rounded to be useful for removal and tends to just strip out. The key with them is to read the filter and see that it tells you to turn it another 3/4 turns or whatever after the seal touches down. But that is too much for most PO’s If you’re going to be the one both installing and taking the filter off they’re great. Beve Stuscemi fucked around with this message at 22:33 on May 28, 2023 |
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Tighten them with oily hands. Problem solved.
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the wacky thing about rubber seals that a ton of people don't seem to realize is that they don't work if they are tightened down so much that they're flattened out. they have to be able to squish around and expand to fill the gap, and that doesn't happen if you crush them paper-thin and make them permanently deformed. oh well
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I’m currently chalking this up to not riding in a few weeks… but still worth asking. You know the buzzy hands feeling you get after a ride sometimes? Would anything mechanically wrong make buzzing worse (loose handlebars etc)? I usually get this after 3+ hours of riding especially at 60mph+, but today I was only out for half that (1.5 hours) and had that sensation after. 20 min of this was even just parking lot drills.
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A whole bunch of stuff could do that, but it's nothing very likely to happen to a modern bike in a few weeks of sitting
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Russian Bear posted:I’m currently chalking this up to not riding in a few weeks… but still worth asking. You know the buzzy hands feeling you get after a ride sometimes? Would anything mechanically wrong make buzzing worse (loose handlebars etc)? I usually get this after 3+ hours of riding especially at 60mph+, but today I was only out for half that (1.5 hours) and had that sensation after. 20 min of this was even just parking lot drills. Buzzy hands is a Japanese bike issue I feel. Quite horrible on my 300cc. There are bar end weights and stuff. I think the only fix is a Harley or a Japanese literbike bogging around at legal highway speeds in a high gear. They probably make some sort of padding. My bike has some crazy resonance around 7500 rpm, goes away much higher or lower. Somehow the knobby tires added to it, and now it also whistles around that point. Half wondering if like a motor de-ringer rubber thingie fell out of the head fins. SSH IT ZOMBIE fucked around with this message at 06:44 on May 30, 2023 |
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Ok I’ll check some of the obvious bolts up front but it’s likely nothing. Maybe just stayed really on the boil today, got pretty lucky with traffic in the twisties. It doesn’t bother me from the discomfort perspective enough to do anything, just wanted to make sure there wasn’t a safety thing I might be overlooking. Russian Bear fucked around with this message at 07:28 on May 30, 2023 |
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I wanna buy a new chain riveting tool. I have one of those cheap ones (the ubiquitous AFAM one) that is just two bolts and two plates with some grooves and pins in them. It's been used for three chains now (all 525 hollow rivet), the bolts are starting to strip and the tool just generally doesn't feel very trustworthy. I see plenty of options around for slightly more serious tools, ranging between about €70-€300 around Sweden. One that I think I like the look of is the RK UCT2100 (for about €140 locally, maybe a bit less shipped from elsewhere). RK after all makes chains, and it just seems more "believable" than your random Chinesium plastic box of tools (even though it's that kind of plastic box and likely Made in China, it at least has some kind of brand name and an actual PDF manual). Is that a good choice, or is there something else I should get instead? Nothing passing through my garage so far is bigger than a 525 and it seems it can do a couple larger sizes too.
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Russian Bear posted:I’m currently chalking this up to not riding in a few weeks… but still worth asking. You know the buzzy hands feeling you get after a ride sometimes? Would anything mechanically wrong make buzzing worse (loose handlebars etc)? I usually get this after 3+ hours of riding especially at 60mph+, but today I was only out for half that (1.5 hours) and had that sensation after. 20 min of this was even just parking lot drills. Unfortunately it could be that you are an Old Man Now and need to think about carpal tunnel. Doing stretches you find on YouTube might help.
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I want to install a SAE connector on my other bike for power take-off and winter charging. Will getting a fused ring terminal be useful in preventing disaster if I happen to plug a reverse polarity SAE accessory/cable by accident? I presume the fuse would blow in a short circuit situation so I think that's right, but I'm forever second guessing myself. e: To be clear, I'm getting a fused terminal in any event, I just want to check my understanding that this would help in a cross polarity oopsie situation some kinda jackal fucked around with this message at 13:16 on Jun 1, 2023 |
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A fuse generally does not protect against reversing polarity.
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It is easy to protect a device you're gonna connect to a battery: ![]() If you reverse the polarity of the incoming supply (so swapping + and - of the battery on the left) the diode will conduct and short out the battery via the fuse, instantly blowing the fuse (if it's dimensioned right, you'll need a pretty fat diode for this job). If you need, i can help find a easily available diode for you that's up to the job, if you tell me the size of your fuse. However, it will not protect in a 'charge one bike from the other but the polarity is incorrect' scenario. Edit: my brain's foggy, let me overthink that one again. When it comes to chargers - most chargers are protected against reverse polarity. If not, they're a terrible design. If you hook up those connectors with lugs straight onto your battery, you'll have enough fault current available to cleanly blow a fuse. It will protect against short circuits pretty well, as long as it's not a 'damaged cable rubbing against corroded metal that barely conducts' kind of short. LimaBiker fucked around with this message at 16:17 on Jun 1, 2023 |
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Be sure to size that diode appropriately. I.e, don't try to use a 1N4148 or something
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I don't think the ones that come with chargers have diodes in em. I'd just use that. e: just spotted who asked the question, maybe in your case it makes sense
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Thanks for the info! The totality of SAE accessories and chargers I have are correct polarity and I don’t intend to use this as a source to charge another bike, so really the only time I can see this being needed is if someone uses an accessory with the incorrect polarity on my bike. Definitely remote, but I wanted to see if there was something I could do to safeguard. If I’m reading correctly the diode solution might work.
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The diode wil work, but it needs to be on the 'client' side, on the thing you're sending power to - from your bike. The fuse needs to be on the side of your bike. Mounting the diode on the side of your bike only does something, if your battery is so incredibly weak, that another good battery hooked up in reverse, has the power to completely reverse the polarity of your battery. You can mount a diode such as a U30D40C (€2,88 from Farnell). 30a continuous, 250a peak current. Or a LQA30T300, also 30a with a peak current of 200a. I recommend not using these with fuses higher than 25a. Ideally 15a. The bigger the overload, the faster it'll blow and the smaller the chance of blowing up the diode before the fuse goes. The voltage drop is between 1,5 and 2v, meaning that the reverse voltage applied to the load will not exceed those voltages. In general, the load will survive that. There is a non-zero chance that if the load has a built in polarity protection that works in exactly the same way, that it'll blow more quickly, if the diode voltage drop is too high, but without a bit of reverse engineering there's no way of knowing that. If you can, mount smaller fuses, so you can use smaller diodes that have a lower voltage drop like the BYQ28E-200,127 (10a continuous, 50a peak, less than 1 euro). I recommend using a 5a fuse so it blows rapidly enough to not exceed the time limit that's associated with the peak current the diode can handle. The diodes are designed to be mounted on a heat sink but that won't be necessary - the fuse should blow instantly, before the diode has the chance to heat up.
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I've found what looks like a nail or tack embedded in my rear tyre, about a third of the way off the centre line. It's a tube type but seems to be holding pressure, which I believe means it hasn't penetrated the tube. Do I: a) yank it out b) first a) and then insert a plug c) remove the whole tyre and inspect/replace the tube because you can't be too careful (and remove the tack/patch the hole)
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To me, it seems like, if you just leave it in there, and the tire continues to wear down, the tack will get pushed farther and farther inward where it will eventually puncture the tube. If you just leave it in there and it has already punctured the tube, then, as the carcass flexes as you corner and go over bumps and stuff, you run the risk of having it dig in and make its hole too big to sustain its plug, and you lose pressure mid-corner or something else equally terrifying. All in all, it sucks, but I think it should come out. (A tubed tire, being on a tube, is just a skin for the tube, anyway. You wouldn't have to replace it the same way you'd be recommended to replace a tubeless tire. Not that I've done that either for plugged punctures before, myself.)
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LimaBiker posted:The diode wil work, but it needs to be on the 'client' side, on the thing you're sending power to - from your bike. The fuse needs to be on the side of your bike. My mistake! OK if I have to modify the client end honestly maybe I’m putting too much effort into protecting a $5 amazon accessory or two. Really I just wanted to make sure if I short circuited something by reversing polarity I wouldn’t damage my bike so maybe I’ll leave well enough alone.
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Aren’t some/most/all 12v accessories designed to only fit one way?
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Renaissance Robot posted:I've found what looks like a nail or tack embedded in my rear tyre, about a third of the way off the centre line. It's a tube type but seems to be holding pressure, which I believe means it hasn't penetrated the tube. If you have a tube tyre then you can't fix the puncture with a plug. How would a plug fix a tube? Makes no sense. Pull the thing out and see if the tyre goes flat overnight. If it doesn't, do nothing. If it does, you have to remove the tyre and fix or replace the tube. There is no way to fix it on the bike, but also no need to do anything to the tyre itself if it's just a tiny hole.
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Slavvy posted:If you have a tube tyre then you can't fix the puncture with a plug. How would a plug fix a tube? Makes no sense. I didn't expect that it would, just wasn't sure if the hole in the tread would want closing up to, idk, keep dirt and grit out or something. I'll yank it and see where it's at tomorrow, thanks.
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On bicycles we use a product called a “boot” (or literally a folded dollar bill in a pinch) to cover a hole in a tire from something the size of a screw, otherwise the tube will just burst through it due to running at 100+ psi. Is there nothing like this on a motorcycle? I’ve never run tubed tires on a motorbike.
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I've heard of off-road riders doing this in emergencies. There are probably some actual products for this. I think it's only to plug a hole in the tire carcass itself. You'd still have to fix the tube or replace it
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E: ^^^^ yeah cause typically off-road you'll put a fucken tree through your wheel and be left with a big hole The tyre on a motorcycle is vastly thicker and stiffer than a bicycle, and the pressure is 30-40psi, so unless you've got an actual gash or a really big hole there's no need to address it. The tube can't poke through a pinhole in a tire 10mm thick.
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# ? Jun 7, 2024 00:19 |
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MTB riders use dollar bills the poor souls still running tubes that is
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