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Salt Fish
Sep 11, 2003

Cybernetic Crumb
Unfortunately I don't think this is any part standard on jenson. I brought it into a shop today and the guy looked at it for a while trying to figure out how it was any different than a normal shimano hydraulic connector and his opinion was that it isn't and I should just try it as is. We looked for any shimano part number, but it appears to just be part of the brake lever itself and seems to be for centering the cable, although the lever body is the same exact size as, for example, the calipers.

Salt Fish fucked around with this message at 19:32 on May 24, 2023

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VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Salt Fish posted:

Unfortunately I don't think this is any part standard on jenson. I bought it into a shop today and the guy looked at it for a while trying to figure out how it was any different than a normal shimano hydraulic connector and his opinion was that it isn't and I should just try it as is. We looked for any shimano part number, but it appears to just be part of the brake level itself and seems to be for centering the cable, although the lever body is the same exact size as, for example, the calipers.

I was actually going to post that I think it's going to be a lever thing. I dunno but this might be a good time to buy a used brake set and just use the lever and caliper for parts as needed. Sucks!

(or upgrade to Saint with galfer 220mm rotors!)

Salt Fish
Sep 11, 2003

Cybernetic Crumb
Unfortunately this is a metrea st-u-5060 so the used part availability... its not great.

The guy was pretty mystified by the brake lever/shifter combo. He also looked at me really weird when I asked if they had any schrader valve extenders for deep section 20" carbon wheels.

SimonSays
Aug 4, 2006

Simon is the monkey's name

Salt Fish posted:

metrea st-u-5060

schrader valve deep section 20" carbon wheels.

Ah, this might be why you can't find any parts

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad
You can't beat that i-told-you-it-could-be-done satisfaction when it's all together, though.

Salt Fish
Sep 11, 2003

Cybernetic Crumb
Well this is turning out to be quite an interesting project. I put oil into the system today and drip drip drip onto the floor it goes.

I assumed it must be the connection, but nope that's dry. In fact oil is pouring out of the back of the piston at the fluid expansion liner. I took off the back plate and check out this seal - I never touched this, it came like this.




I don't think that's supposed to look like that.

Salt Fish fucked around with this message at 00:49 on May 26, 2023

Salt Fish
Sep 11, 2003

Cybernetic Crumb
Incredibly the guy on ebay offered to swap me for a new one which is !! actually crazy.

Mauser
Dec 16, 2003

How did I even get here, son?!
Anyone got a good site for buying replacement ball bearings for hubs? A lot of sellers on ebay that list the grade of ball bearing, but no idea how to judge whether that's correct.

meltie
Nov 9, 2003

Not a sodding fridge.

Mauser posted:

Anyone got a good site for buying replacement ball bearings for hubs? A lot of sellers on ebay that list the grade of ball bearing, but no idea how to judge whether that's correct.

What country?

TobinHatesYou
Aug 14, 2007

wacky cycling inflatable
tube man
Loose balls or cartridge bearings?

Mauser
Dec 16, 2003

How did I even get here, son?!
USA and loose bearings for '70s/80s campagnolo hubs

SimonSays
Aug 4, 2006

Simon is the monkey's name

Mauser posted:

USA and loose bearings for '70s/80s campagnolo hubs

Really not sure I'd be too bothered about the grade for this

Mauser
Dec 16, 2003

How did I even get here, son?!
That works for me. It was more a question of why I'm seeing 100 count for $8 on ebay vs 9 or 10 count for $25 per set at online bike shop both listed as grade 25.

EvilJoven
Mar 18, 2005

NOBODY,IN THE HISTORY OF EVER, HAS ASKED OR CARED WHAT CANADA THINKS. YOU ARE NOT A COUNTRY. YOUR MONEY HAS THE QUEEN OF ENGLAND ON IT. IF YOU DIG AROUND IN YOUR BACKYARD, NATIVE SKELETONS WOULD EXPLODE OUT OF YOUR LAWN LIKE THE END OF POLTERGEIST. CANADA IS SO POLITE, EH?
Fun Shoe

Mauser posted:

bike shop

There's your answer.

Handsomeharald
May 7, 2009
Quick question on older carbon frames: I've got a 2011 era Fuji Team Pro that I got used for a song a few years back. The guy had put north of 10k miles into it, and I've done something similar myself since then. As I've switched over from my winter beater, I've noticed that the toptube is a little "squishy" now? When I push gently with a finger and thumb in the transverse plane of the tube, it visibly deforms a few mms. No apparent difference in ride quality. Is this the dreaded carbon fatigue that was come to claim my baby?

sat on my keys!
Oct 2, 2014

I recently got my 10 year old hybrid a tune up. They regreased the BB spindles and on my first longer ride after the tune-up, my left crank arm started backing itself off the BB. I was able to retighten it with my little Allen key on my multitool but it happened again. I was just using handpower though and I have weak arms. Once I really leaned on it, it seemed to stay seated properly. The BB and cranks are original to the bike and I've probably put 40k miles on them. Is there any chance the shop just didn't tighten the bolt enough after greasing and if I can get a proper wrench I'll be able to tighten it enough?

SimonSays
Aug 4, 2006

Simon is the monkey's name

sat on my keys! posted:

I recently got my 10 year old hybrid a tune up. They regreased the BB spindles and on my first longer ride after the tune-up, my left crank arm started backing itself off the BB. I was able to retighten it with my little Allen key on my multitool but it happened again. I was just using handpower though and I have weak arms. Once I really leaned on it, it seemed to stay seated properly. The BB and cranks are original to the bike and I've probably put 40k miles on them. Is there any chance the shop just didn't tighten the bolt enough after greasing and if I can get a proper wrench I'll be able to tighten it enough?

Crank arms usually need tightening after the first ride. If it keeps backing out even after the first proper re-tightening, you need a new left arm

EvilJoven
Mar 18, 2005

NOBODY,IN THE HISTORY OF EVER, HAS ASKED OR CARED WHAT CANADA THINKS. YOU ARE NOT A COUNTRY. YOUR MONEY HAS THE QUEEN OF ENGLAND ON IT. IF YOU DIG AROUND IN YOUR BACKYARD, NATIVE SKELETONS WOULD EXPLODE OUT OF YOUR LAWN LIKE THE END OF POLTERGEIST. CANADA IS SO POLITE, EH?
Fun Shoe
Wait, they greased the square taper axle?

RIP your crank arms.

SimonSays
Aug 4, 2006

Simon is the monkey's name

EvilJoven posted:

Wait, they greased the square taper axle?

RIP your crank arms.

I assumed there's no way they did that and it's the cones that got the grease, but I guess I shouldn't make assumptions...

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

EvilJoven posted:

Wait, they greased the square taper axle?

RIP your crank arms.

I thought you were meant to grease the square taper bits so the cranks come off easily next time?

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad
Could it have been anti-seize?

SimonSays
Aug 4, 2006

Simon is the monkey's name

kimbo305 posted:

Could it have been anti-seize?

That would be even weirder and is still grease, with extra grit

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

It's the opposite of grease because it abrades instead of lubricating

Man_of_Teflon
Aug 15, 2003

I grease square tapers every time I’m reinstalling them! I think it makes sense:

https://www.sheldonbrown.com/brandt/installing-cranks.html

sweat poteto
Feb 16, 2006

Everybody's gotta learn sometime
I have used park tool anti-seize on square taper and threaded bbs, seat posts, pedal threads and wheel building.

Invalido
Dec 28, 2005

BICHAELING
Having struggled mightily to remove them in the past, last time i assembled square cranks I anti-seized the tapers and put some blue Loctite on the bolts. Seems to work fine a few months in at least, and hopefully I won't need more than a minimum amount of fire to remove them when the time comes. I guess I should check them for tightness though.

Heliosicle
May 16, 2013

Arigato, Racists.

SimonSays posted:

That would be even weirder and is still grease, with extra grit

Anti-seize =/= fibre grip

EvilJoven
Mar 18, 2005

NOBODY,IN THE HISTORY OF EVER, HAS ASKED OR CARED WHAT CANADA THINKS. YOU ARE NOT A COUNTRY. YOUR MONEY HAS THE QUEEN OF ENGLAND ON IT. IF YOU DIG AROUND IN YOUR BACKYARD, NATIVE SKELETONS WOULD EXPLODE OUT OF YOUR LAWN LIKE THE END OF POLTERGEIST. CANADA IS SO POLITE, EH?
Fun Shoe

Slavvy posted:

I thought you were meant to grease the square taper bits so the cranks come off easily next time?

No.

Do not grease the square taper interface between a crank and a bottom bracket. If any of you did it last time and it was fine it was because you got lucky. It's one of the few things you should never grease.

Invalido posted:

Having struggled mightily to remove them in the past

If you struggled with them in the past either something was wong with your crank puller or something was wrong with the crank where the crank puller threads in. I've seen both situations but it's extremely unusual and you're way more likely to ruin your crank by having it come loose because you greased the square taper than ruining the crank by having it not come off normally.

EvilJoven fucked around with this message at 06:02 on Jun 1, 2023

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Why not?

EvilJoven
Mar 18, 2005

NOBODY,IN THE HISTORY OF EVER, HAS ASKED OR CARED WHAT CANADA THINKS. YOU ARE NOT A COUNTRY. YOUR MONEY HAS THE QUEEN OF ENGLAND ON IT. IF YOU DIG AROUND IN YOUR BACKYARD, NATIVE SKELETONS WOULD EXPLODE OUT OF YOUR LAWN LIKE THE END OF POLTERGEIST. CANADA IS SO POLITE, EH?
Fun Shoe
Because you're way more likely to have your crank arm come off.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

I don't see why that would happen tbh

Weembles
Apr 19, 2004

EvilJoven posted:

Because you're way more likely to have your crank arm come off.

Isn't that what the bolt on the end is for?

I poked around a bit and found a thread where people argue about it.

It looks like a lot of people do grease square tapers without any trouble. Some people don't do it just because that's just how it should be done and some don't because they're afraid of the crank sliding too far up and splitting. I'm not sure I understand the physics of that second case.

EvilJoven
Mar 18, 2005

NOBODY,IN THE HISTORY OF EVER, HAS ASKED OR CARED WHAT CANADA THINKS. YOU ARE NOT A COUNTRY. YOUR MONEY HAS THE QUEEN OF ENGLAND ON IT. IF YOU DIG AROUND IN YOUR BACKYARD, NATIVE SKELETONS WOULD EXPLODE OUT OF YOUR LAWN LIKE THE END OF POLTERGEIST. CANADA IS SO POLITE, EH?
Fun Shoe
It's one of those things that people will argue about and I guess it's all anecdotal but ya don't grease your square tapers.

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad

Weembles posted:

some don't because they're afraid of the crank sliding too far up and splitting. I'm not sure I understand the physics of that second case.

Grease reduces the friction coefficient at a given load, and thus the friction force at a given displacement (of how far the crank is threaded down onto the taper).
Where once the crank would stop moving further down because friction was essentially holding it in place, now there's less resistance, so you can torque the crank down more, applying more splitting stress to the inside of the crank interface.

Weembles
Apr 19, 2004

kimbo305 posted:

Grease reduces the friction coefficient at a given load, and thus the friction force at a given displacement (of how far the crank is threaded down onto the taper).
Where once the crank would stop moving further down because friction was essentially holding it in place, now there's less resistance, so you can torque the crank down more, applying more splitting stress to the inside of the crank interface.

But it's still a taper. Regardless of grease, it can only go so far until the full surface is engaged and it stop sliding. A crank that would split on a greased taper would split on an ungreased taper the same way.

Havana Affair
Apr 6, 2009
Some cheaper Shimano cranks at least also come pre-greased.

Slavvy
Dec 11, 2012

Weembles posted:

But it's still a taper. Regardless of grease, it can only go so far until the full surface is engaged and it stop sliding. A crank that would split on a greased taper would split on an ungreased taper the same way.

Yeah I can only see them splitting as a result of being tightened down by an absolute psycho, which I think is independent of whether or not there's grease there

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad

Weembles posted:

A crank that would split on a greased taper would split on an ungreased taper the same way.

If you could generate enough force, of course.

Slavvy posted:

Yeah I can only see them splitting as a result of being tightened down by an absolute psycho, which I think is independent of whether or not there's grease there

The grease makes it easier. I've cracked some lovely BikesDirect tier crank before, and that's without any grease helping.

Invalido
Dec 28, 2005

BICHAELING

EvilJoven posted:


If you struggled with them in the past either something was wong with your crank puller or something was wrong with the crank where the crank puller threads in.
Admittedly my crank puller isn't the greatest, but it's good enough. The root cause of my historical problems is winter riding with road salt induced corrosion. The steel shaft and aluminium cranks both corrode and they can really fuse together after a few winters.

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EvilJoven
Mar 18, 2005

NOBODY,IN THE HISTORY OF EVER, HAS ASKED OR CARED WHAT CANADA THINKS. YOU ARE NOT A COUNTRY. YOUR MONEY HAS THE QUEEN OF ENGLAND ON IT. IF YOU DIG AROUND IN YOUR BACKYARD, NATIVE SKELETONS WOULD EXPLODE OUT OF YOUR LAWN LIKE THE END OF POLTERGEIST. CANADA IS SO POLITE, EH?
Fun Shoe
I've never seen that and I ride square taper cranks in winter. I've also never seen that happen on customers bikes.

I'd get a new crank puller.

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