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A) Tamiya's Hanomag half-track. B) Iwata HP-CS Glad you had fun with your daughter. My son and I built a Bandai Star Destroyer a couple years ago and it was a wonderful time together.
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May 30, 2023 00:05
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ColonelJohnMatrix posted:Pic of my monster truck scene. Built a classic AMT Bigfoot as the centerpiece.
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May 30, 2023 00:39
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Arquinsiel posted:Did you cut up the box to get the art for the base? No, those are personal photos that I scanned and then printed and laminated at appropriate size (well, photos my mom or dad took, as I was 8 years old at that particular event). I was actually at the show that the truck debuted at (I'm a monster truck nut and have worked for the bigfoot team in two separate stints in my career). I thought it would make for a cool display accent. I really enjoy that piece. That's actually my first ever attempt at a real diorama and I'm excited to do more of them. Just gotta get the dang airbrush situation fixed! Thanks for that Iwata rec. It's what I was leaning towards. My local hobby shop has that half track so ill have to pick one up!
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May 30, 2023 01:03
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Tin Tim posted:Thanks for the advice! So the problem isn't so much with the wash itself affecting the coat below, but problems can arise when you try to clean the wash up - any solvent/cleaning agent compatible with the wash will potentially lift the water-based paint underneath, unless you separated them with a lacquer or enamel based clear coat. e.g. vallejo thinner/airbrush cleaner will eat through vallejo paint if you try to use it to clean a vallejo wash. As Chuck_D said, basically for safety you would aim to use oil paints or enamel based washes (e.g. AK) on top of water based acrylics (preferably over an acrylic clear coat), or acrylic washes over enamel or lacquer paints. Putting a clear coat over your paint before you move onto the next stage is sometimes called a 'utility gloss' as its only purpose is to protect the paint under it from weathering etc. It's a trial and error thing really to figure out what combo you like best. This all said, I still sometimes use acrylic washes like citadel nuln oil over an acrylic clear coat in wee spots like wheel bays, and it's easy enough to clean up with a cotton bud with a touch of vallejo thinner as long as I don't rub too hard at it and end up abrading the base, you just have to work quickly. tidal wave emulator fucked around with this message at 01:12 on May 30, 2023 |
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May 30, 2023 01:10
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ColonelJohnMatrix posted:No, those are personal photos that I scanned and then printed and laminated at appropriate size (well, photos my mom or dad took, as I was 8 years old at that particular event). I was actually at the show that the truck debuted at (I'm a monster truck nut and have worked for the bigfoot team in two separate stints in my career).  and it came out great.
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May 30, 2023 01:23
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ColonelJohnMatrix posted:In getting back into modeling, I just built a Tamiya Panzer II with my oldest daughter and we had a great time. Is there another classic Tamiya WWII armor kit that you guys would recommend for the next one? The Panzer II was a nice and quick build, and very inexpensive. A lot of people including me swear by the GSI CREOS PS-289 airbrush. When I bought it it was like $150 but I've regularly seen them on sale for like $90. It's a .3 so its a good all around airbrush. I've used it for everything from cars to tanks with acrylics, lacquers, etc with no issues at all.
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May 30, 2023 02:37
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tidal wave emulator posted:So the problem isn't so much with the wash itself affecting the coat below, but problems can arise when you try to clean the wash up - any solvent/cleaning agent compatible with the wash will potentially lift the water-based paint underneath, unless you separated them with a lacquer or enamel based clear coat. e.g. vallejo thinner/airbrush cleaner will eat through vallejo paint if you try to use it to clean a vallejo wash. I'll pick up some enamel based washes in the future and give it a try then. For now I think I'll finish with what I have since it's my first paint job after 20 years of absence and it already has some flaws to it. Also I've been slowly working on it for months and kinda want to get it done. Guess I'll do some light panel lining and clean up any excess right away with a cotton swab/fine brush before the wash dries. That prospect worries me less than brush-painting a coat of gloss without loving it up  Just to be safe, you don't usually need to thin varnishes right?
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May 30, 2023 13:54
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Chuck_D posted:Since I took every model off the shelf yesterday to dust, I decided to reorganize those too. For funsies, here are pics of how everything sits at the moment. As it stands, I'm at nearly max display capacity and had to throw away a couple tanks that I wasn't all that jazzed about yesterday. My wife wants me to put up floating shelves around the room to aid in further displays. She's a keeper. Nothing quite beats the economy of a wire shelf and some vinyl mats. You get storage and displace space for days on a shoestring budget.
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May 30, 2023 15:12
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My crapgun is crapping along as a good pace. I lost my magazine somehow, but fortunately I had most of a kit as spares since that one had a part missing when it arrived. I'm trying two new things here: clear sprue to make the glass for the scope and letting oil paint dry with streaks to make the wood texture. 
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May 31, 2023 18:57
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I'm sorry, but that does not look crappy at all.  Great idea with the clear sprue for lenses! quote:My recommendation would be to stop at a local arts store and grab a tube of black and/or brown oil paint and some artists oil thinners (e.g. odorless turpenoid, white spirits) and do your wash with oils instead of acrylics. This is the way to go. Still learning the ropes on washes but oil is the way to go I think. Still need to be careful with the thinner and rubbing but it gives great results! therunningman fucked around with this message at 21:02 on May 31, 2023 |
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May 31, 2023 20:24
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The odourless stuff is a lot weaker and safer for your paint. Definitely make sure it's completely dry, I've lifted up paint before just by rubbing it even if the thinner didn't react.
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May 31, 2023 20:41
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I picked up some windsor brown oil paint and odorless thinner to try my hand at a first washing of my Tamiya Panzer II. I figure if I mess it up, I'll just grab another!
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May 31, 2023 22:20
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Unless you somehow drop the Panzer II in the thinner bottle, there isn't really a way to gently caress up so badly that you would have to buy another model.
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May 31, 2023 23:13
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Ensign Expendable posted:Unless you somehow drop the Panzer II in the thinner bottle, there isn't really a way to gently caress up so badly that you would have to buy another model. Which is to say, of course, that "buying another model kit" is an acceptable response in any situation.
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May 31, 2023 23:22
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ColonelJohnMatrix posted:I picked up some windsor brown oil paint and odorless thinner to try my hand at a first washing of my Tamiya Panzer II. I figure if I mess it up, I'll just grab another! I've applied wash on exactly three models... including the Panzer II so my experience is not exactly wide but I picked up a couple of things that helped me apply the oil wash over acrylic paint. Definitely give it a good gloss coat first. What made the greatest difference for me was diluting the wash a little less than I thought was needed, using a long, thin liner brush, taking my time to not flood areas with the wash, and finally tidying with a soft brush rather than a q-tip (I damaged quite a bit of paint with q-tips).
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Jun 1, 2023 03:59
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Yes hello, please excuse me while I crash into the thread with dumb questions that were probably answered when I read the first 20 and last 20 pages as well as the minis thread airbrush content... Always lusted after an airbrush for the scale models and lead figures when I was younger, and I'm helping kids get started with plastic kits and rocket builds. Sounds like the perfect excuse to splash out on something and buy some stuff for myself to work alongside the kids as they learn and grow. So my applications are basically smallish-to-medium size scale stuff (basically not figure painting, and not like micro 2” long tanks or whatever). Typical like 6-18” max dimension plastic models I guess? And it would be nice to do some work on the rockets, that tend to be in the 18-48” long with tube diameters in the 1-4” range. That being said, I wouldn’t focus on the 4” diameter 4-foot-long rocket application, I would guess we are only going to “one-or-three” of those. It would be nice to get use out of the airbrush for something like that but it’ll be an outlier and shouldn’t really be a constraint/driver, if that makes sense. Probably more like 36" long, 2.5" diameter type stuff would be more common. Here's where I need someone to sanity check my conclusions/assumptions so far. I’m prone to paralysis by analysis so my goal is to get something to start with so I’m actually DOING THE THING and getting better rather than reading about it for 3 months. I’m perfectly happy to buy once cry once, but ideally the first stuff I buy should be able to be a part of a future quiver where it is still useful rather than getting thrown out or I straight up upgrade. A lot of the research so far points me to something like the Iwata Eclipse HP-CS. Assumption The First Since I’m a beginner, is it a safe assumption that I can start with low precision/coverage type work and be relatively happy with the results while I learn about/practice/refine the more art-focused techniques? For instance, can I treat the dual action trigger “pull” axis like a binary button and just pull back to the max, and with some practice, hope to get nice, even coats of things like primers, clear coats, solid color? I’m thinking of using it like a stupidly expensive rattlecan I guess? I would guess that something like the Revolution SAR or some Badger model I saw and immediately forgot would technically be “best” for something like those coverage applications but as long as the Eclipse CS would perform passably (even if it took longer for the very few bigger projects I had), it seems like I would be better served to get something like the Eclipse to grow into with techniques that I couldn’t do with something like the Revolution SAR. Furthermore, if I get that frustrated down the road I can just add a more coverage-focused airbrush is my thinking. Assumption B If I stick with this I’m happy to buy some stupid expensive quiet hobby compressor, but can I feed this thing with a lovely pancake shop compressor just to get spraying? I understand it’s gonna be loud as gently caress and I need some adapter work to get it hooked up, but I just need a regulated air supply that can do the recommended 35 psi or whatever? I guess the alternatives are buy a trash Master amazon tankless/tinytank compressor deal with the expectation that it lasts between 1-100 hours while I research and decide on some Sparmax or Iwata thing, or I just do that research now and buy the Cadillac up front. I guess while I am resigned to dropping $$$$ on a reasonable compressor if I stick with it, it seems like I would rather gamble the smallbux on the trash compressor or just use a shop compressor if they would literally just get me started. I would have to do a little more digging to make sure I’m managing moisture given that airbrush compressors or kits all seem to have water traps or whatnot, and the water trap on the shop compressor is “the tank,” but if I have to plumb in an extra $20 thing from Amazon that I wind up throwing away when I get a real compressor, that’s still preferable to dropping $350+ on a compressor RIGHT NOW, even if I’m resigned to doing that later. It doesn’t have to make sense, it doesn’t even make sense to me. Thank you in advance for your consideration and abuse. uwaeve fucked around with this message at 00:47 on Jun 2, 2023 |
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Jun 1, 2023 18:46
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I think a basic Masters airbrush and compressor with a tank would work perfectly for what you want. I think you might be overthinking things here. The compressor with a tank that comes with this kit isn't all that loud, and since it has a tank it does not run continuously. You could paint the items you are interested with relatively easily with this kit, or buy a larger needle to make the big rockets go more quickly. And once you have the compressor you can get an adapter if needed and buy a better airbrush later. The masters one actually works perfectly well for priming and other tasks too, and if you are not averse to masking it will work well for military models. Also, since you might damage/lose parts/etc.... your first airbrush might not want to be top of the line. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08Y64YQ3M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 edit to add: Using them is a lot more intuitive than it seems. The trigger isn't flimsy so it is easy to maintain the trigger in a half way position or whatnot, to adjust flow rate. It is probably easier and better to error on the slightly too little flow than too much flow. Basically after fiddling around with one sheet of cardboard and a few old minis you will be good to go. Like, no joke, you will have it figured out to the level where you can prime all your guys in just a few hours. Double edit to add: Airbrushes are more simple to use than 3d printers, so if you figured those out you are golden here. And if you figure out the airbrush, then you probably could figure out 3d printers if you want to go in that direction. IncredibleIgloo fucked around with this message at 19:38 on Jun 1, 2023 |
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Jun 1, 2023 19:34
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Yeah, way over thinking this for your applications. You're not doing any sort of precision work so you don't need a fancy brush or even a kinda-fancy brush, an old school bottom feed, single action external mix brush would probably do you just fine. The Master kit off amazon is a good place to start and I've been hearing good things about the Harbor Freight compressor/brush kit. https://www.harborfreight.com/airbrush-compressor-combo-kit-57637.html It doesn't have a tank, but it has a pressure regulator and comes with a high capacity brush for less than a hundo. Most these compressors are made by the same people regardless of brand name, and they'll last you plenty long if you're not using them 8 hours daily (mine is like 5 years old), and the brushes they come with are nothing special but they'll get you started, complete your projects and tell you if you need to buy an upgrade.
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Jun 1, 2023 19:48
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I just picked up a Harbor Freight Avanti brush so give me a day or so and i'll post impressions. I had planned to grab a nice Iwata, but seeing Harbor Freight had one for 25 dollars, I figure hey, at that price it's worth a shot to try it.
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Jun 1, 2023 20:20
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I would go ahead and get a compressor with a tank. It's not much more expensive and it's really nice to have, even at the entry level. I still have my cheapo Master and it's going strong. A cheap (but not dirt cheap) airbrush is a good place to start. You want something a little above bargain basement while you're learning, so it doesn't drive you crazy because it's a piece of poo poo, but also not so expensive that it's going to hurt when you inevitably break something, bend the needle, lose a tiny part, etc. It'll also help you build preferences for what you like and dislike about the brush, which will inform your choices for upgrades later on.
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Jun 1, 2023 20:40
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Chiming in with a newbie +1 for the cheap Master off amazon. I'm doing what you are talking about, using my existing compressor with a dedicated airbrush moisture trap/regulator and adapters and whatnot. I got the $45 master kit with three needles, $15 for the moisture trap/regulator, and maybe $10 in misc bits. Downside is I have to airbrush in my garage. Upside is at $45, I didn't care when I somehow managed to break the 0.3 nozzle in the kit. Having said that, I got a better Procon airbrush for my birthday a couple weeks ago, and am enjoying that I can actually regulate air and paint with the trigger vs the very on/off of the cheap one.
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Jun 1, 2023 22:41
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I started with a decent quality Badger airbrush I got secondhand and ran it off my tool compressor. The compressor was too loud and the airbrush was too fine (0.2 mm) so I soon ordered a compressor with a tank and an airbrush with a selection of tips and cups. https://www.amazon.ca/Timbertech-Professional-Upgraded-Airbrush-Compressor/dp/B07VT2F5N9/ https://www.amazon.ca/TIMBERTECH-Airbrush-Multi-Purpose-Dual-Action-Decorating/dp/B07SQYLBR5/ It is a quite decent kit and has served me really well with primers, acrylics, and varnishes. I am also able to do it at night and not bother the kids when they are sleeping. PS: don't forget to keep the lid on the airbrush paint cup.
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Jun 1, 2023 23:42
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I got a .3 mm airbrush/compressor kit at Canadian Tire. I quickly outgrew the airbrush, but .3-.35 mm is a very versatile needle size and I do pretty much everything in .35 these days.
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Jun 1, 2023 23:55
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uwaeve posted:Yes hello, please excuse me while I crash into the thread with dumb questions that were probably answered when I read the first 20 and last 20 pages as well as the minis thread airbrush content... If the price point is good for you, an Iwata HP-CS is an airbrush you will never grow out of or need to upgrade. If the noise doesn't bother you, there is nothing at all wrong with using a shop compressor. I use a dewalt pancake compressor, but keep it about 20 feet away from my airbrush station, so I have it hooked up to a moisture trap/regulator mounted to the side of my modeling bench so I don't have to get up and walk across the basement every time I want to fiddle with the air pressure. I prefer using a shop compressor as it can do, well, shop compressor things where airbrush compressors seem to me like one-trick ponies. You can treat the dual action needle pull of the trigger like a binary on/off switch, but within 5 minutes of playing with it, you'll get the basics down. Just practice spraying paint on a primed piece of cardboard or something by moving closer and farther away and adjusting the trigger pull (closer=less paint) for a while and keep in mind that you always want to keep moving when the paint is spraying. The air valve on the trigger (as far as I've ever seen) is used as a binary switch and the pressure is set at the compressor or external regulator. I've never heard of anybody varying the pressure on the trigger to vary the air pressure.
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Jun 2, 2023 00:14
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What spray booth would people recommend?
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Jun 2, 2023 00:33
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Input much appreciated. To clarify, I sort of wanted something to grow into in terms of learning how to get more skilled and finer detail work. My "current application" is only because I haven't tried anything and figured it was a safer place to start. My experience has generally been that buying mid-to-high range things like tools makes learning and maintenance less frustrating. That being said, I understand the couple options posted are functionally similar (dual-action, internal mix, gravity fed etc) and I can probably do the same "grow into learning new stuff" with them. I was more apprehensive about having a bad time with them from a usability/frustrating to work with standpoint in the meantime. The Harbor Freight Avanti kit is something I could just buy and try and mess with and if it wound up getting scrapped I could sort of write it off and have a lot more knowledge to work from like multiple posters suggested, as it's $100 and sort of one of my initial proposed options was to get something like a $100 compressor just to get going, along with an airbrush that I probably wouldn't grow out of and was quality enough to stick with. The Master set on Amazon, at $230, is getting into the territory of wondering if I'm not better off buying what I sort of assumed was a known good quantity of a $150 Eclipse and using the shop compressor for 50 hours or whatever until I decided on the level of compressor features I wanted. Basically trying to put myself 6 months into the future to figure out if I'd have spent $230, then have upgraded (or wanted to upgrade) the airbrush, compressor or both. I guess I'm not arguing or debating (since I have no idea what I'm talking about with respect to quality, again just literally coming at this from a "when I buy nice stuff I tend to enjoy using it more than wrestling with less nice stuff" angle, and my read on reviews was that the one I suggested was sufficiently "nice stuff" that it was probably safe, if expensive/overkill), just musing out loud. The prospect of smoking delicate parts or losing tiny pieces is a good point, I guess I should budget a X% probability of that happening, and what it would take to get it up and running again. I will continue to think and read, I'm not in a turbo rush for this, I just wanted to get something out and get some feedback, so thanks for the help. I'd be interested in an experienced user's take on the Avanti setup as well, but again no rush. I still have to decipher the paint types and whatnot to even see where I'd start for the different materials I'm interested in (kraft paper rocket tubes/various types of molded nosecones/sealed balsa/basswood, as well as polystyrene). Even the types and seemingly mixed types (solvent-based acrylic vs water-based, different additives and what they do) are confusing at this point. Then like how much do I like my lung function etc. for how PPE I want to go (cheap suitcase booth, respirator that won't work on a giant lumberjack beard etc). Not any of you folks' jobs to sort that out for me though, I'm sure the info is out there, I just need to find it. Furthermore I'm sort of assuming I'm going to start with a brand and type with its associated thinners and prep recommendations, and just start spraying spoons and sprues and cardboard tubes and balsa stock and see what happens. Exciting times. uwaeve fucked around with this message at 00:42 on Jun 2, 2023 |
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Jun 2, 2023 00:39
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I started out with one of those generic tanked compressor + no-name dual action gravity fed airbrush combos about 5 years ago - the brand used was 'Abest' but whether that exists as an actual company or not I don't know, but the kit I bought is still available on Amazon. Both of them are still going strong (I've never even tried the suction-feed airbrush that came with it). I've never had any issues with the compressor and I still use the airbrush for priming and clear coating despite having bought several quite expensive airbrushes since then. It can take much more of a beating than my Badger or Procon Boy airbrushes which are beautiful to use but delicate, and it seems to just keep on going. It's got a nice weight in the hand too and doesn't feel cheap. PriorMarcus posted:What spray booth would people recommend? There's basically three kinds of spray booths: 1) The generic fold-up blue booths with a carrying handle that are all over ebay/amazon - this is what I started with and is fine if you're spraying acrylics or nothing particularly noxious. It's not powerful enough to cope with spraying rattle cans in its vicinity though, and you'd need to leave it on for ages to clear a room of lacquer fumes. Mine lasted about 3 years before what I presume were all the aerosolised solvents eventually melting the hinges and the sides falling apart. I think I paid about £70 for mine.  2) Professional spray booths - these are usually either designed for laboratories or artists, and will set you back £300+. I upgraded to a Benchvent BV300SD and it's really good, decent quality and sucks a huge amount of air through it. It's about twice the size of the foldup one, but is made from steel rather than plastic. Benchvent are uk-based but I'm sure similar products are available in the states.  3) Build your own spray booth - lots of folk who have some DIY skills are happy to build their own with an extractor fan and a dryer hose. I've not done this myself but I know that if you do, you need to use a brushless motor because you don't want any sparks produced by the motor to possibly ignite the fumes passing through it.
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Jun 2, 2023 01:02
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tidal wave emulator posted:1) The generic fold-up blue booths with a carrying handle that are all over ebay/amazon - this is what I started with and is fine if you're spraying acrylics or nothing particularly noxious. It's not powerful enough to cope with spraying rattle cans in its vicinity though, and you'd need to leave it on for ages to clear a room of lacquer fumes. Mine lasted about 3 years before what I presume were all the aerosolised solvents eventually melting the hinges and the sides falling apart. I think I paid about £70 for mine. I use that one and haven't had any problems with fumes from airbrushing lacquers, enamels, or their related thinners. Full disclosure: I removed the filters and have it permanently vented outdoors via a dryer hose and a dryer vent. I agree with you that they don't pull enough air to be used with rattle cans - not by a long shot - don't even try it indoors. I'm not going to say it is the best booth, but it is a good option at that price point. The two issues I don't like about it is that whatever plastic it is made of melts when contacted with lacquer paint/thinner. I'm bad about laying my messy paint stir sticks down in the booth and spilling lacquer thinner all over when cleaning the airbrush. I solved that problem by buying a 1/8" thick piece of HDPE or LDPE (I don't remember and it doesn't matter) and cutting it to fit the base of the booth. The second problem with the lighted booth is that they come with cool white LED strips which cast a very blue light. If you are comfortable with a soldering iron, it is easy to remove the cool white LED strips and replace them with warm white. The only other problem I had is that the power switch crapped out after a few years. Once again, if you are handy with a soldering iron, it is a pretty easy fix. On the topic of building your own, everybody will recommend using a brushless motor for your exhaust fan to prevent possible sparks and that is good advice. I'm not recommending that you cut corners with safety, but I tried airbrushing straight hardware store lacquer thinner our of my airbrush at a BIC lighter one time at and it just blew the lighter out. I upped the stakes and blew lacquer thinner at one of those sparkers you would use to ignite a propane torch and I still couldn't get it to ignite the lacquer thinner and turn my airbrush into a mini flamethrower. I don't recall if I took it another step and tried spraying directly at a lighted propane torch. I was getting pretty drunk by that point and it was many years ago. Also, I didn't do any experiments with enamels or their related thinners. edit: for painting rockets, that booth is probably going to be way too small. Skunkduster fucked around with this message at 02:15 on Jun 2, 2023 |
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Jun 2, 2023 02:11
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Small rattle cans work with mine, big ones create a huge stink that takes a while to dissipate.
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Jun 2, 2023 02:47
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I envy the people who have a setup where they can actually vent the exhaust out the window instead of relying on the filter (and a proper filter mask for particularly nasty poo poo) to make sure they don't end up with nicely gloss coated lungs.
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Jun 2, 2023 03:27
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I have a respirator too just in case.
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Jun 2, 2023 04:21
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Vorenus posted:I envy the people who have a setup where they can actually vent the exhaust out the window instead of relying on the filter (and a proper filter mask for particularly nasty poo poo) to make sure they don't end up with nicely gloss coated lungs. No matter how good your spraybooth is you should probably wear a respirator anyway. Especially when you're spraying really nasty stuff like lacquers and 2k clears etc.
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Jun 2, 2023 05:19
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PriorMarcus posted:What spray booth would people recommend? One where the lights and the fan aren't on the same switch. I have a generic Amazon foldup and it's fine, but sometimes I want to use the lights to do some brush work, and I have to run the fan to use it. Ensign Expendable posted:I have a respirator too just in case. Always wear your PPE. The acceptable amount of gunk in your lungs is exactly, integer, zero.
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Jun 2, 2023 05:22
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Ensign Expendable posted:I have a respirator too just in case. Repeating what others have said. Always wear a respirator when spraying. If you can smell it, it's going in your lungs, so make sure the mask fits well and shave if you need to.
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Jun 2, 2023 11:05
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Yup, get a respirator with replaceable cartridges and filters, and keep it in a sealed bag when you're not wearing it to extend the life of the cartridges. If you're only spraying water-based acrylics you can probably get away with a mask that just has particulate filters, but for anything smelly you need organic vapour cartridges too. As an aside, does anyone else wear their mask when they're sanding plastic? I feel like I probably should do but usually forget. If I'm working with resin I do wear the mask though.
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Jun 2, 2023 11:27
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tidal wave emulator posted:Yup, get a respirator with replaceable cartridges and filters, and keep it in a sealed bag when you're not wearing it to extend the life of the cartridges. Do I wear a mask when I'm sanding plastic? No. Should I? Yes. Very much yes. There's no way that dust isn't super bad for your lungs
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Jun 2, 2023 13:01
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I just recently made a spray booth out of an amazon box. Before that was spraying on a puppy pad on my workbench, but noticed that the stuff behind it was starting to build up paint on it (because duh, it's not like paint droplets just vaporize). My kid just pulled down some LED light strips in her room and I'm planning to line the top with them. In true dad fashion, I assume this will become the spray booth of Theseus and eventually will involve furnace filters and leftover fans, and become larger, more expensive, and more time consuming than just buying a $300 one now, but such is the way of things.
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Jun 2, 2023 14:24
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Charliegrs posted:Do I wear a mask when I'm sanding plastic? No. Should I? Yes. Very much yes. There's no way that dust isn't super bad for your lungs I was going to say I would expect that just simple plastic dust would mostly get caught by your nasal lining doing its job, but then I remembered all the recent discussion about microplastics and such. I would really like to be able to vent my booth, but that requires either buying 20+ feet of pipe/ducting to run across my apartment or setting up my workspace on carpet which as a renter is not a mistake I am going to repeat. I guess I get to choose between getting screwed by liquid paint or aerosolized paint. Thank you all for reminding me why I bough a mask with a P100 filter and why I should be using it instead of letting it collect dust (and not in the way it was meant to  )
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Jun 2, 2023 15:01
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Interesting conversation. I'm pretty religious about using a respirator w/organic vapor cartridges when I'm painting. As it's the only respirator I have, wear it when I sand resin too. Now that we're talking about masks with respect to polystyrene, I'm kinda rethinking my more lackadaisical approach to that. Would something cheap and simple like this be good enough for sanding polystyrene parts and boards? I would just need to be a simple dust filter, right?
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Jun 2, 2023 19:10
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I thought we were doing it FOR the inhalants and not DESPITE the inhalants.  Protect your lungs.
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Jun 2, 2023 19:40
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