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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Welp my garbage disposal’s bones don’t hurt anymore and I guess I need a new one. It’s on a switch and I would like a new one that works on that same switch-do Insinkerators all use the weird little plunger thing or can they be made to work on the switch? Is there a best brand of garbage disposal out there? What kind of switch are you talking about? And how does your disposal connect to it? (i.e. hard wired or a plug) New disposals have plugs. New air switches fit through one of the holes on your sink (that might be used for a sprayer or whatever) and plug into an outlet and have a switched outlet for your disposal.
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Jun 4, 2023 14:18
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Vim Fuego posted:
Those are a fabulous find, and nice work by you! I have bad luck with foam brushes. I do my patio table and my wife’s mahogany Adirondack chair in polyurethane with a good Purdy brush, knocking down with #00 steel wool then wiping with paint thinner or isopropyl alcohol in between coats. 3-4 coats as they’re outside. The brush is cleaned thoroughly with paint thinner between coats. That brush is dedicated to oil-based work. You can do those in maybe 2-3 max for a durable, silky finish. I did a wooden butcher-block-style microwave cart in a single coat of urethane, and it went 20-years with no issues. That table now sits outside at my back door, and gets stripped & re--done every few years. It’s holding up well. As is the brush PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 15:24 on Jun 4, 2023 |
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Jun 4, 2023 15:16
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Welp my garbage disposal’s bones don’t hurt anymore and I guess I need a new one. It’s on a switch and I would like a new one that works on that same switch-do Insinkerators all use the weird little plunger thing or can they be made to work on the switch? Is there a best brand of garbage disposal out there? I just replaced my 25 year old insinkerator last week. It was on a switched outlet under the sink. It actually clipped right on to the existing mounting flange and i was done in < 15 minutes, completely painless. They do sell the power cord separately now, so make sure you get one of those.
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Jun 4, 2023 20:09
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I got a letter from my home insurance company a couple weeks ago saying that there are 11 areas of my home I need to take care of or they are going to raise my rates/lower my coverage. Out of those 11 items, two are complete bullshit (nonexistent broken window and nonexistent branches touching the roof), five are cosmetic (all peeling paint), and four are legit (rotting trim, damaged siding, bushes in contact with the siding, and hail damage to the roof). I called my insurance agent and let him know I wasn't at all happy about my insurance company acting like they are an HOA with all this cosmetic crap and he basically told me to bend over and take it up the rear end. Bullshit or not, the cosmetic stuff should be taken care of anyway just so my house doesn't look like trash, so I started with the front door. The paint was all scratched up from previous foster dogs. Below is after scraping the chipped paint and the finished product. One down, eight to go. I thought it was interesting that the Valspar paint code on the card is V109-5 "Isis Wept", but on their website, they call it V109-5 "Goddess of the Nile". I'm guessing they thought people might mix up Isis and ISIS and changed the name.
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Jun 4, 2023 20:54
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Obviously it’s good to fix all that crap anyway, but unless you’re in a really difficult insurance market like hurricane-prone areas, find a new insurance agent and insurance co. A lot of them are getting more strict with inspections but plenty of them aren’t.
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Jun 4, 2023 22:04
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We got a hand me down wood bed frame for my kid and I figured I'd paint it before we used it. I sanded it down with 120, applied Kilz premium interior primer, and left it in my garage to dry. I come back to check it after a week and it's still quite tacky. What the hell? Is this normal? Can I paint over it like this? I did some googling and it looks like it's not an uncommon issue with this exact product, but I couldn't get an answer as to whether it's safe to paint over.
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Jun 4, 2023 22:24
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I wouldn't expect anything good to happen painting over primer that didn't cure after a week. The right answer is strip it off  and reprime with a zinsser product.
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Jun 4, 2023 22:38
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PainterofCrap posted:Those are a fabulous find, and nice work by you! Thanks! And ok, I just bought a good purdy brush. I killed on on my last project through insufficient cleaning. I did it well enough after my first two coats, but then I didn't after my third and RIP brush. I'll do better this time. I also learned a lot about dust nibs and how much I hate them! Gonna take some steps to have a cleaner finishing area this time.
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Jun 4, 2023 22:40
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xsf421 posted:I just replaced my 25 year old insinkerator last week. It was on a switched outlet under the sink. It actually clipped right on to the existing mounting flange and i was done in < 15 minutes, completely painless. They do sell the power cord separately now, so make sure you get one of those. This was how it went and it was very easy after all. Only used the sink 3 times while the disposal was pulled, twice without a bucket under the drain!
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Jun 4, 2023 23:04
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I inherited this BBQ like five years ago and it obviously had some issues. The tube burners were rotted out, all the trays, etc. The stainless shell was still in okay shape, so out come the burned out guts.  Lowe’s had everything on sale  New burner and trays. Have some clamps holding it until I riveted it back together.  And back in action and making burgers again. This whole retrofit was half the cost of a new BBQ that was about half the size and thinner painted sheet metal. This grill has to be pushing about 15years old now and will probably go at least another five years of service for us. 
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Jun 5, 2023 00:25
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Sockington posted:I inherited this BBQ like five years ago and it obviously had some issues. Nice work!
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Jun 5, 2023 02:09
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:PG&E (local utility) is running a $3k rebate if you replace your gas water heater with a heat pump water heater. So, cool, that's basically a free new water heater, I'd be a fool not to take advantage of it. I'd need to install a 30A/220V circuit to power the thing, though. And my panel is full, like, stuffed to the brim with tandem breakers full. So I call up an electrician to come out and take a look, thinking that I can get a new sub panel put in to gain some more space. Said electrician points out that I only have a 100A service, and just between the EV charger and the water heater I'd be near the max capacity of that service. So....maybe it's time to upgrade the service, and put in a new panel in the process. Which has to be somewhere other than where the current panel is, because it's within 3' of the gas meter, and that's too close for modern code. When you call the power company, tell them you want to buy an EV but can't get the charger installed with your current service. (Even though you already have.) Needing an EV charger is one of the ways to get a no-charge service upgrade in our area.
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Jun 5, 2023 02:19
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HycoCam posted:When you call the power company, tell them you want to buy an EV but can't get the charger installed with your current service. (Even though you already have.) Needing an EV charger is one of the ways to get a no-charge service upgrade in our area. They might get a bit suspicious when they arrive and see the EV charger located directly under the main breaker  But yeah, they've been touting an EV charger rebate, which IIRC I didn't qualify for for some reason.Still, worth mentioning, thanks for the tip! I can lay it on thick with "I'm trying to be more efficient and use less fossil fuels yadda yadda".
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Jun 5, 2023 02:40
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Obviously it’s good to fix all that crap anyway, but unless you’re in a really difficult insurance market like hurricane-prone areas, find a new insurance agent and insurance co. A lot of them are getting more strict with inspections but plenty of them aren’t. I found out that this wasn't just some random inspection. I put in a claim for hail damage to my roof last summer and the adjuster took photos of the whole house while he was here. The roof is getting replaced next week (gutters too, as a bonus) so that will knock one more thing off the list. My agent has been pretty good to me for the last 20 some years I've been with them and he will be the one doing the final inspection. He agrees that it is bullshit, but there isn't much I can do other than switch companies. He said he is good at taking photos that will get the insurance company / underwriters off my rear end.
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Jun 5, 2023 19:51
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:They might get a bit suspicious when they arrive and see the EV charger located directly under the main breaker Just say that you're getting a second EV.
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Jun 6, 2023 02:42
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Should I be concerned about the bottom of this joist and how it will sit in a joist hanger? If so is there anything I can do to build the ripped portion back up, like a shim or similar? If I had to sister the beam are there any guidelines for how long the sister should be? The missing portion extends about an inch up the beam. For context, I replaced a old beam with an LVL beam so I could eliminate a lally column. What you're seeing is a floor joist which butts up against the LVL. In order to install the LVL I had to cut a slot into the joist and unfortunately some of the joist ripped out at the bottom of the cut. I had an architect measure and design the replacement.
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Jun 7, 2023 00:00
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a dingus posted:Should I be concerned about the bottom of this joist and how it will sit in a joist hanger? If so is there anything I can do to build the ripped portion back up, like a shim or similar? If I had to sister the beam are there any guidelines for how long the sister should be? The missing portion extends about an inch up the beam.
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Jun 7, 2023 02:15
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I don't reccomend placing an ecobee room sensor on your dresser near the trash can if you have cats. Farewell sensor.
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Jun 7, 2023 05:10
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StormDrain posted:I don't reccomend placing an ecobee room sensor on your dresser near the trash can if you have cats. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F8MlRGvri-c
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Jun 7, 2023 06:04
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Greets thread, the title of this thread really resonates with me RN. I'm needing to do some work on my back porch, was hoping to put a little roof on it ultimately and maybe work toward making it a Florida room or at least what they're now calling "mud rooms" on the telly. But some of the original construction wasn't that great, I was hoping for some advice. Can I show you some pics  I especially wanted to ask you all about this specifically, the underside needs a little help. First, there doesn't appear to be enough support and I guess the floor of the deck should have more supports on the underside. But also, my BIL brought my atention to the fact that the deck isn't actually bolted to the house, and that I should be using some carriage bolts. But then I noticed the area where those carriage bolts are supposed to be and as you can see in the photos, there is a gap there, which the previous owner attempted to shim that gap with apparently whatever they had around. I'm wondering if I should maybe remove some of that more halfass looking shimmage, put something a little more substantial in there, and then do the carriage bolts as my BIL advised.     And there are more things wrong too, I don't even intend to deal with all of them RN. My ultimate goal is to fix it up as needed, put a transparent roof over it and floor sheathing right on top of the current timbers, and probably just linoleum over that. Pretty simple, hopefully. Please advise. Maybe I should just leave the shimmage as is and run the bolts as BIL said? Not sure. petit choux fucked around with this message at 12:02 on Jun 7, 2023 |
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Jun 7, 2023 11:39
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petit choux posted:
I'd look into your local codes for deck construction in regards to anchoring it to the building. Here's an example with some good photos from a county south of me :https://fliphtml5.com/aqpx/wkoa/basic. Note the section about not anchoring and brick veneer. Adding a structure on top of a deck, even if it's just a screen room, goes beyond the design intent of a standard deck. So those guidelines likely get superseded by actual building codes. If you get snow now you have snowload to worry about, or if you get wind, you have to make sure it's strapped properly. As far as the span goes, that link has tables about acceptable span lengths depending on joist sizes. You may be perfectly fine right now. One good thing I see is they are using the Simpson concrete anchors to stand off the posts from the concrete. This is way better than in the dirt... like my house has...
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Jun 7, 2023 12:17
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Yooper posted:I'd look into your local codes for deck construction in regards to anchoring it to the building. Here's an example with some good photos from a county south of me :https://fliphtml5.com/aqpx/wkoa/basic. Note the section about not anchoring and brick veneer. Adding a structure on top of a deck, even if it's just a screen room, goes beyond the design intent of a standard deck. So those guidelines likely get superseded by actual building codes. If you get snow now you have snowload to worry about, or if you get wind, you have to make sure it's strapped properly. TY I had a good buddy with v long hair who caught it in some machinery much like your AV pic. We don't mention that now.
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Jun 7, 2023 12:24
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I asked in the plumbing thread but it might be better put here: Any suggestions on how to easiest clean out and caulk the edge of an undermount sink? I noticed there was a bit of naaaasty gunk under the edge at one spot, gave it a small scrape/scoop followed by a hard spray, and heard the lovely sound of water hitting the floor of the cabinet. Looks like the installers didn't bother running the silicone sealant all the way around when they put it in and there's a 3-4" section at the very front of the sink that allows water through.  I was thinking about just cleaning it up the joint between the sink and countertop as best I can with a scraper and rubbing alcohol then running a small bead of silicone around the inner edge to hold out water until I can get the time to drop the sink and redo the entire silicone seal (probably in combination with installing a disposal). Would that be an acceptable temporary patch?
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Jun 7, 2023 12:33
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Shifty Pony posted:I asked in the plumbing thread but it might be better put here: Any suggestions on how to easiest clean out and caulk the edge of an undermount sink? As a temporary measure you can always just patch it on the other side. Not pretty, so you would have incentive to finish it. Rubber tape.
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Jun 7, 2023 12:39
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petit choux posted:Greets thread, the title of this thread really resonates with me RN. I'm needing to do some work on my back porch, was hoping to put a little roof on it ultimately and maybe work toward making it a Florida room or at least what they're now calling "mud rooms" on the telly. But some of the original construction wasn't that great, I was hoping for some advice. May have been minimally to code for its time, it wouldn't be at all today most likely (depends on where you live). Even if it was up to code for today it would still need to be torn down to do what you're talking about. You simply can't turn a deck into a room and its cheaper, easier and will provide vastly superior results to start from a clean slate.
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Jun 7, 2023 13:49
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Motronic posted:May have been minimally to code for its time, it wouldn't be at all today most likely (depends on where you live). Even if it was up to code for today it would still need to be torn down to do what you're talking about. In a similar vein this got posted over in TFR for other reasons: bloody ghost titty posted:I’m new here (here is guns, my account can almost drive) - how gun stoopid do y’all think this fellow is https://www.businessinsider.com/gra...h-moody-road-14 Setting aside the prepper fantasy stuff and the punisher skull decor (I mean, in here - TFR didn't, that poo poo is cringy as gently caress), holy poo poo I can not imagine that grain silos convert into housing well, no matter how much internal structure you build or insulation you install.
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Jun 7, 2023 14:07
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Motronic posted:May have been minimally to code for its time, it wouldn't be at all today most likely (depends on where you live). Even if it was up to code for today it would still need to be torn down to do what you're talking about. Can somebody help me through this. Why is this?
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Jun 7, 2023 14:23
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Basically a deck is assumed to carry a much lighter load than the floor of a room, and every part of it is built accordingly. The difference between the two is so great that the cost and trouble involved in retrofitting a deck up to the requirements for a room is greater than the cost and trouble to demolish the deck and build a room from scratch. It's like trying to change into a tuxedo by modifying your pajamas while you are wearing them, almost nothing is actually able to be reused and the end result is probably going to look like poo poo despite taking 10x as long. Think about it this way: you will be adding several hundred pounds of extra structure on top with the flooring, walls, and roof. You are also much more likely to put heavy stuff like proper furniture in a mudroom than on a deck. That requires drastically improved support. You can't skimp on that because even if you know not to put heavy poo poo there, the next owner won't and that is exactly the sort of hazard that building codes are trying to address.
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Jun 7, 2023 14:51
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Shifty Pony posted:Think about it this way: you will be adding several hundred pounds of extra structure on top with the flooring, walls, and roof. You are also much more likely to put heavy stuff like proper furniture in a mudroom than on a deck. That requires drastically improved support. You also have to account for roof loading from snow/rain/wind and wind loading on the walls. The whole thing is just a non-starter as it's designed live and static load capacities are probably under 20% of what they need to be.
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Jun 7, 2023 14:57
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Wow, thanks for these good answers. Going with that, how about I put a roof over it, just some transluscent type shed roofing material? Won't be increasing the load to the deck or adding sheathing if you are correct. I don't need to take it alll the way to the mud room phase, I can stop at that, I think. But I would like to put my freezer out there and have a minimal roof over it, would you advise against that? Some of the vertical posts are getting cracks in them and to me that's a sign of fairly advanced decay, I think if I secured them to some uprights to hold up a minimal roof, that may work? I mean this also assumes beefing up the underside of this deck, in all likelihood. Here is an unrelated question. I have these cheap PVC soffits, and I have a small flock of birds, Grackles I think, who keep pulling them out and building nests up there. Any recommendations on what to do about those guys? I haven't the heart to kill any baby birds, even grackles.
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Jun 7, 2023 15:07
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petit choux posted:Wow, thanks for these good answers. Going with that, how about I put a roof over it, just some transluscent type shed roofing material? That deck is "end of life" for what it is right now. Wind and snow loads of any kind of roof, even one that magically weighed nothing at all, would exceed what anyone would reasonably want to put on a deck that old, constructed that way in that poor of shape. Based on your pictures you live in a town or city. Which means you most likely have code enforcement. There is approximately a zero percent chance of them approving of this without blueprints stamped by an engineer. And no engineer is going to stamp prints for putting anything more than a couple of adirondack chairs on that thing.
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Jun 7, 2023 15:23
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Motronic posted:That deck is "end of life" for what it is right now. Wind and snow loads of any kind of roof, even one that magically weighed nothing at all, would exceed what anyone would reasonably want to put on a deck that old, constructed that way in that poor of shape. Okay, okay. How about securing it to the building and shoring up the planks? If you are correct I will start working toward replacing it but that isn't happening this summer.
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Jun 7, 2023 15:27
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That said you could rig up a little spot for a chest freezer under the deck without too much trouble. A few concrete pavers to raise it up off the potentially wet ground, two or three polycarbonate roofing panels, and some 2x4s to hold them up sloped away from the house would do it.
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Jun 7, 2023 15:35
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Shifty Pony posted:That said you could rig up a little spot for a chest freezer under the deck without too much trouble. A few concrete pavers to raise it up off the potentially wet ground, two or three polycarbonate roofing panels, and some 2x4s to hold them up sloped away from the house would do it. To be clear, I think you mean on the ground next to the deck? The space under the deck is only about a meter. And it has concrete underneath all the way. Come to think of it, I wonder if that is foundation, that would be a good thing if I do renovate.
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Jun 7, 2023 15:38
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petit choux posted:Okay, okay. How about securing it to the building and shoring up the planks? If you are correct I will start working toward replacing it but that isn't happening this summer. It doesn't appear to have been designed to be attached to the building. Why would you want to do this now? What does "shoring up the planks" mean? You have cracked and rotten posts on an unknown thickness slab base. You have insufficient and probably also cracked joists. You have fasteners that are so rusted they've stained everything near them. Literally none of it is worth saving. While I understand the desire to keep things that feel like you can improve piece by piece over time, that's not a good way to address something this far gone. You'll never get satisfactory results and they certainly won't lead to a structure that can be added on to/modified in the way you started out this discussion.
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Jun 7, 2023 15:40
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Motronic posted:It doesn't appear to have been designed to be attached to the building. Why would you want to do this now? Well, you have made my job for today a lot easier, let me tell you LOL.
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Jun 7, 2023 15:52
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No, I really appreciate the good answers. The deck felt a whole lot more sound a few months ago when we moved in. Oh, and my BIL said it all looks sound. Now he may be trying to give me bad advice, he's a bit of a card like that.
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Jun 7, 2023 15:55
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petit choux posted:No, I really appreciate the good answers. The deck felt a whole lot more sound a few months ago when we moved in. Oh, and my BIL said it all looks sound. Now he may be trying to give me bad advice, he's a bit of a card like that. It looks sound enough to be an uncovered deck. I don't think you're in any imminent danger by using it. The point is that you can't turn it into what you want it to be piece by piece, so just enjoy it as it is and keep an eye on it for problems like completely failed fasteners that need to be replaced so you can continue to use it safely as it is. E: the best upgrade for that thing as it sits would be a retractable awning. You have the right house exposure and height to pull that off pretty painlessly.
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Jun 7, 2023 16:01
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Motronic posted:It looks sound enough to be an uncovered deck. I don't think you're in any imminent danger by using it. Came here to post this.
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Jun 7, 2023 16:42
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fletcher posted:With these anchors instead of the screws it comes with: StormDrain posted:I've never had great confidence in Tapcons, that may just be user error. Tapcons are concrete anchors. They won’t hold for poo poo in basically anything except concrete or brick. Even then, they’re hyper sensitive to installation, and it’s easy to gently caress them up. MrsYenko loves to come up with internet sourced plans for things to attach to the house, and I’m constantly having to explain that doing these things to a concrete block home is not as simple as it is in the video of someone in the normal world that lives in a twig and board home.  If you have a wood stud somewhere under the stucco, you want to be attaching to that with the aforementioned construction screws. The stucco won’t hold anything at all. Think of it as really thick paint.
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Jun 7, 2023 16:53
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