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therunningman
Jun 28, 2005
...'e 'ad to spleet.

Chuck_D posted:

Interesting conversation.

I'm pretty religious about using a respirator w/organic vapor cartridges when I'm painting. As it's the only respirator I have, wear it when I sand resin too. Now that we're talking about masks with respect to polystyrene, I'm kinda rethinking my more lackadaisical approach to that. Would something cheap and simple like this be good enough for sanding polystyrene parts and boards? I would just need to be a simple dust filter, right?

I use a combination organic vapour and particulate filter in my half-respirator. It helps with both hazards. A dust mask is definitely better than nothing.

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grassy gnoll
Aug 27, 2006

The pawsting business is tough work.
I only wear a dust mask when I sand plastic. Resin gets the full hazmat treatment, but since I'm gently filling and not blowing stuff all over with a Dremel, I feel comfortable that I'm taking sufficient precautions.

Skunkduster
Jul 15, 2005




I always wet sand with resin or plastic. Sands better and no worries about particles in the air.

Prof. Banks
Apr 22, 2015

Computer lab day! Time to spend 45 minutes trying to load pokemon.com!


Skunkduster posted:

I always wet sand with resin or plastic. Sands better and no worries about particles in the air.

That's what I do as well.

Tin Tim
Jun 4, 2012

Live by the pun - Die by the pun

Little update on my last post about babys first panel lining. I just gave it a try using the Vallejo Game Wash and it's not working well for me. I did lay down a coat of gloss but the wash isn't flowing along the lines at all. Also I need to pick up a fair bit of it on the brush to even have it leave color behind. Which obviously makes it much harder to paint cleanly. Yeah I stopped after expermenting for a bit and will try something else.

Just to make extra sure for my old brain: What do you use to clean up excess oil/enamel wash afterwards without damage to the acryl varnish coat?


E: Hmm I seem to have figure it out myself.

Raided an old stash of enamel paints and made a black wash with some thinner. Cleaned it up with what my country calls "cleaning petrol" and no damage happened


Think I'm on the right track with my first try result

Tin Tim fucked around with this message at 19:29 on Jun 3, 2023

Chuck_D
Aug 25, 2003
Looks about right. Often you can clean enamels with a dry cotton swab, but it looks like you're finding your groove.

A few weeks ago, I mentioned I was trying to find a site that I'd previously found for a company that sold 3D printed ship models. I finally found it again: https://3d-wild.com/. They are a new company out of Pennsylvania and it looks like they've got some really neat kits (to me anyway) and, anecdotally, the quality is reported to be quite high. Wondering if it'd be smarter and look better to buy some of their AA sets for the Kongo rather than try to assemble thousands of them out of flat PE.

I'm not affiliated with them in any way, but check them out. They look pretty cool.

Midjack
Dec 24, 2007



Chuck_D posted:

Wondering if it'd be smarter and look better to buy some of their AA sets for the Kongo rather than try to assemble thousands of them out of flat PE.

It would certainly be faster!

therunningman
Jun 28, 2005
...'e 'ad to spleet.

quote:

A few weeks ago, I mentioned I was trying to find a site that I'd previously found for a company that sold 3D printed ship models. I finally found it again: https://3d-wild.com/. They are a new company out of Pennsylvania and it looks like they've got some really neat kits (to me anyway) and, anecdotally, the quality is reported to be quite high. Wondering if it'd be smarter and look better to buy some of their AA sets for the Kongo rather than try to assemble thousands of them out of flat PE.


So much tiny detail! 3D printed parts are really amazing.
Now I also need a radio controlled tank.




I picked up this bad boy from Marketplace today to build with my son. 1:32 F-14 Tomcat, about as old as I am but complete in sealed bags. It is going to be enormous!




I also wish I had known about this sooner...CA accelerator in pen form.



The process of "toothpicking" all this stuff was done in a small fraction of the time it took last time! Usually I sit and blow on each while holding it to help it cure. Saved so much time!

mllaneza
Apr 28, 2007

Veteran, Bermuda Triangle Expeditionary Force, 1993-1952




Chuck_D posted:

I'm not affiliated with them in any way, but check them out. They look pretty cool.

I... I should not have followed that link. At some point that is going to cost me a lot of money and more time.

tidal wave emulator
Aug 7, 2007

3D printing is definitely where it's all going for short-run stuff like ship kits that have traditionally been cast resin - the resolution is coming close to what can be achieved with casting (from the likes of Combrig etc) so there's fewer and fewer downsides. Similarly the writing is on the wall for cast resin accessories as you don't have to worry about the moulds wearing out etc. The time it takes to print vs the speed of injection moulding or casting is the only issue but with smaller bits you can print dozens simultaneously - maybe not so much for a 1/350 ship's hull though.

Luckily for my wallet, all the stuff on that site is 1/350 but I noticed they're selling Bunker Studios accessories. They recently announced a 3D printed upgrade set for Pit Road's 1/700 Yamato (which has been sitting on my shelf for ages) and I could definitely see myself investing in these.

Chuck_D
Aug 25, 2003
I just finished the build of the new Academy A-10C in 1/48 scale (I needed a break from the endless PE work on the Kongo). After staring at the P-38 for 6 months, I kinda forgot what it was like to build a kit in a few hours.

Nice kit, not Tamiya level of fit, but close enough for a modern new tool kit. I'll have some clean up to do once all the cement dries, but it'll be nothing compared to that dumb p-38. (Fun fact: my phone auto-suggests "p-38" after I type "dumb" :lol: )

Vorenus
Jul 14, 2013
I lost a part to my M1A2. :ohdear: I remember priming and painting it when I did the rest of the engine and now it's gone. Here's hoping Ryefield will send me a replacement part.

Charliegrs
Aug 10, 2009
If any of you like to build Soviet/Russian tanks and other armored vehicles and need some really in depth reference photos I recommend checking out this blog called "Tankograd" https://thesovietarmourblog.blogspot.com/ It's full of photos and technical manual printouts of every little detail and is especially useful if you're doing a model with an interior. And well its just an interesting website in general.

Darth Brooks
Jan 15, 2005

I do not wear this mask to protect me. I wear it to protect you from me.

This is another 3D printed kit. The local library has an FDM printer and it's one color and looks rough when you look at it up close.

The cockpit has some detail that would be lost if you used the solid cockpit so I build a vacuum form machine.

There's less than fifteen bucks in parts.

I used some clay that you bake as the mold. The clay was pushed into the bottom of the printed canopy and then baked and puttied and sanded. Baby Yoda's window was made the same way.

The same clay was used to make the figures.

The library only charges for the material used so the printed parts were less than ten dollars. I found out about the Revell kit after starting this one. For now that one is out of the budget. I really wish the library had a resin printer though.

Darth Brooks fucked around with this message at 05:20 on Jun 5, 2023

mllaneza
Apr 28, 2007

Veteran, Bermuda Triangle Expeditionary Force, 1993-1952





Well done!

Raskolnikov38
Mar 3, 2007

We were somewhere around Manila when the drugs began to take hold
anyone ever encounter photoetch that just refused to take CA? this fender kit for a type 59 refuses to bond with CA, sometimes even when kicker is used. pretty sure its not the glue as it works fine on the other photoetch set i got for this model but its annoying to have to solder everything on these fenders

The Locator
Sep 12, 2004

Out here, everything hurts.





Raskolnikov38 posted:

anyone ever encounter photoetch that just refused to take CA? this fender kit for a type 59 refuses to bond with CA, sometimes even when kicker is used. pretty sure its not the glue as it works fine on the other photoetch set i got for this model but its annoying to have to solder everything on these fenders

Try cleaning the photo-etch with a very mild acid to remove any possible oil coating it. Basic white vinegar from the grocery store works very well for this. When I was trying to blacken brass cannons and other parts, it was something I had to do. I soaked the parts for about 30 seconds, then used a paintbrush while in the vinegar on all surfaces to make sure everything was removed, then rinsed in distilled water and patted dry with a paper towel.

Bloody Hedgehog
Dec 12, 2003

💥💥🤯💥💥
Gotta nuke something
I've seen photoetch that had some sort of coating on it, that prevented blackening or glue drying. Might have to take some light sandpaper to it to give the surface some tooth for the glue to grab on.

Skunkduster
Jul 15, 2005




Is photoetch solid brass, or brass plated?

Raskolnikov38
Mar 3, 2007

We were somewhere around Manila when the drugs began to take hold
vinegar soak seems to have done the trick. luckily i had distilled white on hand instead of the apple cider vinegar i thought it was

Charliegrs
Aug 10, 2009
I always hear horror stories about airbrushing Vallejo paints but I thought I'd give it a shot anyway. I got some Vallejo thinner and airbrush flow improver and I was surprised it actually seemed to spray as well as any Tamiya paint I've used. I didn't have any tip drying problems or anything like that. The thing is I just sort of winged it with the amount of flow improver I used since the instructions on the bottle are in every language except English. Does anyone know the "right" amount to use?

Ensign Expendable
Nov 11, 2008

Lager beer is proof that god loves us
Pillbug
I finished my crapgun. This SVT was a part of my first AliExpress purchase. It had a missing part so I got a refund and a second one. The set of spares came in handy, since after finishing my magazine I dropped it and it disappeared into the aether.

This is my most extensively modified crapgun yet. The glass in the scope is made of a clear sprue and the sling sort of faithfully reproduces how an actual SVT sling is made, except for using black leather instead of brown since I didn't have any black artificial leather that was thin enough.







Midjack
Dec 24, 2007



Charliegrs posted:

I always hear horror stories about airbrushing Vallejo paints but I thought I'd give it a shot anyway. I got some Vallejo thinner and airbrush flow improver and I was surprised it actually seemed to spray as well as any Tamiya paint I've used. I didn't have any tip drying problems or anything like that. The thing is I just sort of winged it with the amount of flow improver I used since the instructions on the bottle are in every language except English. Does anyone know the "right" amount to use?

From the bottle on my bench:

treetheheavy
Mar 28, 2005

ColonelJohnMatrix posted:

No, those are personal photos that I scanned and then printed and laminated at appropriate size (well, photos my mom or dad took, as I was 8 years old at that particular event). I was actually at the show that the truck debuted at (I'm a monster truck nut and have worked for the bigfoot team in two separate stints in my career).

I thought it would make for a cool display accent. I really enjoy that piece. That's actually my first ever attempt at a real diorama and I'm excited to do more of them. Just gotta get the dang airbrush situation fixed!

Thanks for that Iwata rec. It's what I was leaning towards. My local hobby shop has that half track so ill have to pick one up!

That's loving rad as hell. As someone who was Bigfoot obsessed as a kid, is that kit worth it?

stealie72
Jan 10, 2007
How do car/people get windshields,, windows, and canopies to stay on without visible glue?

I got some Zap Formula 560 Canopy Glue and I'm struggling with finding the right amount that will hold glass on without being a visible (clear) blob. I've used it on a camaro with curved glass and a cheap tamiya jeep with a straight windshield and I'm struggling to find a place where clear parts are behind enough plastic that I can hide the glue.

If I thin it down so I can brush it on the edges in a very thin coat, will it still stick? The multi-hour dry time doesn't really help with experimentation.

treetheheavy
Mar 28, 2005

I always use elmer's glue for windshields/glass

Boaz MacPhereson
Jul 11, 2006

Day 12045 Ht10hands 180lbs
No Name
No lumps No Bumps Full life Clean
Two good eyes No Busted Limbs
Piss OK Genitals intact
Multiple scars Heals fast
O NEGATIVE HI OCTANE
UNIVERSAL DONOR
Lone Road Warrior Rundown
on the Powder Lakes V8
No guzzoline No supplies
ISOLATE PSYCHOTIC
Keep muzzled...

treetheheavy posted:

I always use elmer's glue for windshields/glass

Ding ding. Elmer's and a toothpick. Keep CA far away from the clear stuff unless you want mad fogging.

Raskolnikov38
Mar 3, 2007

We were somewhere around Manila when the drugs began to take hold
https://supergluemsds.com/Docs/PT56%20-%20Formula%20560%20Canopy%20Glue,%20Rev%204%20-%202012.pdf

its just PVA white glue

Charliegrs
Aug 10, 2009
When I built car models I often used UV glue for windshields. It works well because you apply a little drop of glue while holding the windshield in place then hit it with the light and it will turn rock solid.

therunningman
Jun 28, 2005
...'e 'ad to spleet.

Darth Brooks posted:

The cockpit has some detail that would be lost if you used the solid cockpit so I build a vacuum form machine.

There's less than fifteen bucks in parts.

I used some clay that you bake as the mold. The clay was pushed into the bottom of the printed canopy and then baked and puttied and sanded. Baby Yoda's window was made the same way.


Very cool with the vacuforming, finished model looks great!


Ensign Expendable posted:

I finished my crapgun. This SVT was a part of my first AliExpress purchase. It had a missing part so I got a refund and a second one. The set of spares came in handy, since after finishing my magazine I dropped it and it disappeared into the aether.

This is my most extensively modified crapgun yet. The glass in the scope is made of a clear sprue and the sling sort of faithfully reproduces how an actual SVT sling is made, except for using black leather instead of brown since I didn't have any black artificial leather that was thin enough.



The first one completed! Great looking crap-gun :blastu: Excellent work on the wood and that strap looks super.
I got two crapguns. Built the first one with my son and I have the second one assembled and waiting to paint.


Charliegrs posted:

I always hear horror stories about airbrushing Vallejo paints but I thought I'd give it a shot anyway. I got some Vallejo thinner and airbrush flow improver and I was surprised it actually seemed to spray as well as any Tamiya paint I've used. I didn't have any tip drying problems or anything like that. The thing is I just sort of winged it with the amount of flow improver I used since the instructions on the bottle are in every language except English. Does anyone know the "right" amount to use?

Spraying acrylics seem to me to need some manner of experimentation every time I load the paint brush. Depending on the brand and colour different ratios and air pressures are usually needed. I tend to stick to the manufacturer's specific thinners but I have a bottle of Vallejo Flow Improver I use for all mixes. I usually add a drop or two to a cup of paint. I've read some people thin with only flow improver but I have not tried that.
Starting out I had problems with it until I watched a video by ammo mig where they lay down many very fine layers and slowly build up the finish. That was the "aha" moment for me, until then I laid it on too heavy in the first passes.

therunningman
Jun 28, 2005
...'e 'ad to spleet.
Has anyone tried ordering from Lucky Model in Hong Kong? They seem to have decent products and good prices compared to what I can get around here.

https://www.luckymodel.com/

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

Hey, y'all. Still building and thought I'd share my latest:



Also made a lightbox, which is a pretty cool trick for taking photos of these things in the squalor that is my basement.

Lizard Combatant
Sep 29, 2010

I have some notes.

nitsuga posted:

Hey, y'all. Still building and thought I'd share my latest:



Also made a lightbox, which is a pretty cool trick for taking photos of these things in the squalor that is my basement.

That's a nice bike. Were you thinking of making a model kit version?

Chuck_D
Aug 25, 2003

therunningman posted:

Has anyone tried ordering from Lucky Model in Hong Kong? They seem to have decent products and good prices compared to what I can get around here.

https://www.luckymodel.com/

Yep, they're legit. Just long delivery times as it's usually sent on the proverbial "slow boat from China."

Vorenus
Jul 14, 2013

nitsuga posted:

Hey, y'all. Still building and thought I'd share my latest:



Also made a lightbox, which is a pretty cool trick for taking photos of these things in the squalor that is my basement.

As long as no one asks for video of it running you could just put that on ebay for $lotsofmoney, free shipping.

nitsuga
Jan 1, 2007

Ah, thanks goons. Maybe I’ll put the scale in the subtitle. Then I could spend all the proceeds on more old Tamiya kits. :homebrew:

Next up:

Charliegrs
Aug 10, 2009
I was at hobby lobby with the intention of buying some oil paints for weathering purposes. I saw a sale sign on some paints I thought were oil but I should have actually read the label because I ended up getting a water color paint. I didn't even know water color came in a heavy viscous variety like oil does. So I'm curious if I can still use it for weathering? I guess instead of mineral spirits I would need to thin it with water. Has anyone tried this?

Ensign Expendable
Nov 11, 2008

Lager beer is proof that god loves us
Pillbug
The internet says that you can use a drop of soap to prevent it from beading up and it still can be used to make a wash.

Bloody Hedgehog
Dec 12, 2003

💥💥🤯💥💥
Gotta nuke something
Water-colors make excellent stains/filters. They thin out extremely far, and they can tint other colors already applied to a model to give a chromatic richness.

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ColonelJohnMatrix
Jun 24, 2006

Because all fucking hell is going to break loose

treetheheavy posted:

That's loving rad as hell. As someone who was Bigfoot obsessed as a kid, is that kit worth it?

Yes, pretty much any non-Snaptite Bigfoot kit is pretty killer! They all command pretty high prices these days it seems!

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