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No, primer is a separate thing. You don’t really need it for your size.
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# ? Jun 8, 2023 21:29 |
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# ? May 14, 2024 06:19 |
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Captain Log posted:I've got one of those "Color Rite 2-Tip" pens with "Clear and Color" ends. Should I grab a primer pen, or is that what's in the clear end? The clear is an overcoat you would use after cleaning, primer, color, etc. They definitely sell the primer in pens, and if possible I’d get one from the same manufacturer.
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# ? Jun 8, 2023 21:33 |
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I don't know if this is quite the right type of question for this thread but here goes. I have a car that is pretty low mileage, no accidents or damage, etc that I am trying to sell. Recently, a mechanic said it "might" have a hairline crack in a piston but he can't find out for sure without doing about 5k of work first. He also insisted when I pressed him that the car is perfectly safe and fine to drive in its current state. I don't really want to spend 5k on a car I want to sell anyway just to find out if he's right. If I generate an automated cash offer for the car through a dealership or car reseller, in part by checking the box that says no mechanical or electrical issues, they see during the inspection that the engine runs and has no service lights on and buy the car, Is there any chance I could be responsible for future maintenance AFTER the sale is completed?
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# ? Jun 8, 2023 21:59 |
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No
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# ? Jun 8, 2023 22:05 |
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Saul_Tingly posted:I don't know if this is quite the right type of question for this thread but here goes. I have a car that is pretty low mileage, no accidents or damage, etc that I am trying to sell. Recently, a mechanic said it "might" have a hairline crack in a piston but he can't find out for sure without doing about 5k of work first. He also insisted when I pressed him that the car is perfectly safe and fine to drive in its current state. I don't really want to spend 5k on a car I want to sell anyway just to find out if he's right. If I generate an automated cash offer for the car through a dealership or car reseller, in part by checking the box that says no mechanical or electrical issues, they see during the inspection that the engine runs and has no service lights on and buy the car, Is there any chance I could be responsible for future maintenance AFTER the sale is completed? First off, what symptoms did the car display that made the mechanic think it has a cracked piston? My gut is that he wants to buy a new boat and sees you as an ATM. No, you're not responsible for any undiagnosed problems. The mechanic's suspicion is not a diagnosis.
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# ? Jun 8, 2023 22:09 |
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For the sappy poo poo, maybe try rehydrating it first. Grab a soaking wet rag and leave it on that thing overnight, maybe throw some old Tupperware on top of it to keep it from drying out, reapply additional water (and maybe mild soap?) to rag before bedtime, then attack it in the morning. Presumably it's organic and will absorb water and soften up
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# ? Jun 8, 2023 22:23 |
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find a new mechanic OP
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# ? Jun 8, 2023 22:43 |
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Saul_Tingly posted:I don't know if this is quite the right type of question for this thread but here goes. I have a car that is pretty low mileage, no accidents or damage, etc that I am trying to sell. Recently, a mechanic said it "might" have a hairline crack in a piston but he can't find out for sure without doing about 5k of work first. He also insisted when I pressed him that the car is perfectly safe and fine to drive in its current state. I don't really want to spend 5k on a car I want to sell anyway just to find out if he's right. If I generate an automated cash offer for the car through a dealership or car reseller, in part by checking the box that says no mechanical or electrical issues, they see during the inspection that the engine runs and has no service lights on and buy the car, Is there any chance I could be responsible for future maintenance AFTER the sale is completed? No. Did you tell the mechanic you were thinking of selling the car before they pulled cracked piston out of their backside?
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# ? Jun 8, 2023 22:50 |
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Deteriorata posted:First off, what symptoms did the car display that made the mechanic think it has a cracked piston? The stabilitrak and check engine light came on for a minute or so on the highway so I took it in to check the code. After a little googling I was expecting to need a new sensor or something since there are no other symptoms and it barely has over 30k miles on it. Admittedly I have no idea what I'm talking about. joat mon posted:No. No but I can confirm that I look like a classic mark so I am always a little suspicious of this kind of stuff. Definitely wouldn't be the first time someone just threw a bunch of poo poo on an invoice to see what sticks.
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# ? Jun 9, 2023 00:02 |
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A cracked piston would have very bad, noticeable and repeatable symptoms. Also tests 1 and 2 would be compression and leak down. These are cheap and easy tests on most cars. Never go back there for anything.
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# ? Jun 9, 2023 00:26 |
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Saul_Tingly posted:The stabilitrak and check engine light came on for a minute or so on the highway so I took it in to check the code. After a little googling I was expecting to need a new sensor or something since there are no other symptoms and it barely has over 30k miles on it. Admittedly I have no idea what I'm talking about. honda whisperer posted:
EVER
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# ? Jun 9, 2023 00:36 |
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Where do yall shop for wheels? Looking to get some 18”x8.5” wheels for swapping onto track tires. I actually quite like the oem hyundai wheels that come on my car, bonus points if anyone knows a similar style wheel.
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# ? Jun 9, 2023 01:07 |
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I'm trying to figure out an explanation for this, like OP misheard him say "cracked... paintjob?" or something but I'm not clever enough to find a named part that could crack, not be a big deal, and also rhyme with piston enough to misunderstand. Or like the mechanic remarked "Hugh cracked a piston on his" in reference to a similar car owned by a friend, and OP heard "you cracked a piston on it" but that's stupid. I just can't figure out any other explanation that makes sense other than wow what a loving scumbag.
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# ? Jun 9, 2023 01:31 |
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Possibly cracked cylinder head or block.
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# ? Jun 9, 2023 01:36 |
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Scionix posted:Where do yall shop for wheels? Looking to get some 18”x8.5” wheels for swapping onto track tires. I actually quite like the oem hyundai wheels that come on my car, bonus points if anyone knows a similar style wheel. The first place you might ask is the dealer to see if they have any take-offs from customers who bought a car but wanted different wheels on it (might not be super common for Hyundais). After that, Tire Rack usually has a pretty good selection of wheels.
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# ? Jun 9, 2023 02:31 |
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Basically - quote:Saul_Tingly posted: History of the ECU should show the issue with a scanner. 10 minutes tops for a decent mechanic. honda whisperer posted:A cracked piston would have very bad, noticeable and repeatable symptoms. 100%, there is no goddamn way you need to tear down a motor to diag a cracked anything. And bore scopes exist. Good lord, that mechanic is an rear end in a top hat
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# ? Jun 9, 2023 10:49 |
If I bought tires from like, Walmart.com or somewhere similarly cheap, would most shops be willing to put them on or is that a giant liability issue for them? I assume I can probably just have them shipped to a Walmart with a tire shop and they'll put them on, at least. I also assume cheap tires are a really bad idea.
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# ? Jun 9, 2023 12:32 |
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Shops will install tires as long as they're above minimum tread depth and have appropriate ratings for your vehicle. Some places are stickier than others on ensuring the size matches the door sticker exactly, with bringing in tires they're likely to be on the stickier side. Cheap tires have their place, they're better than worn or damaged tires. Place like Walmart won't exactly put the highest level of care into the swap so expect to see a few new scuffs on the rim. They're the only thing connecting your car to the road, and a good quality tire (not necessarily expensive) is worth it to ensure proper performance in emergencies.
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# ? Jun 9, 2023 12:39 |
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09 Corolla, 2.4l etc etc. Monday morning I started my car after sitting for the weekend, and the display for the radio was all hosed up. Its an older style of display, not a touch screen. Its the type that has the display with numbers and letters that look like old style clock radio or digital watch type things (LCD?) and little pixels for other stuff. Anyway, it was all pretty hosed up and I figured it was new radio time. Went to work, car sat all day, started it up and the display was fine and has been fine since. This morning, I started the car and the Traction control, VSC and ABS lights came on. Shut the engine off, waited a minute or two and started it back up. Lights went off as per normal after starting. Whats the deal? Is this one of the 42069 things that can be caused by a bad ground? Didn't notice the car starting hard, starter struggling or anything like that but I guess theres probably a lot more grounds than just the battery negative cable.
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# ? Jun 9, 2023 15:39 |
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Admiral Joeslop posted:If I bought tires from like, Walmart.com or somewhere similarly cheap, would most shops be willing to put them on or is that a giant liability issue for them? I assume I can probably just have them shipped to a Walmart with a tire shop and they'll put them on, at least. Some cheap tires are good, some are terrible. Expensive tires are not necessarily better. Go to a place like Tire Rack to look at the ratings of what you're considering and buy the best ones you can afford - shop around and find the best price. Almost any tire place will mount them for you. They don't care.
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# ? Jun 9, 2023 15:49 |
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wesleywillis posted:09 Corolla, 2.4l etc etc. Alternator or ECU has been my experience when those things start happening. ECU was due to squirrels eating the entire wiring harness coming out the back of the computer block.
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# ? Jun 9, 2023 15:52 |
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Dr. Lunchables posted:If you can get a primer pen then use that, it’s big enough. Keep in mind you’ll need to clean the surface first so that it can bind. In my experience alcohol has been surprisingly effective on sap.
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# ? Jun 9, 2023 16:42 |
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Deteriorata posted:Some cheap tires are good, some are terrible. Expensive tires are not necessarily better. Walmart also mostly carries reasonably decent tire brands. They carry some weird Chinese bullshit, too, but they have a series of brands I'd be willing to buy: Conti, Goodyear, Hankook, Yokohama, Michelin, Falken, Cooper, Nexen
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# ? Jun 9, 2023 18:17 |
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Interesting experience just now. Have my dad’s car (a 2017 Genesis G80.) Got the oil changed on Tuesday, car has been fine since then. Took it on a vacation. After driving it probably 7-8 hours total, and on the highway 15 mins from home, oil light comes on. In this car it’s a tiny light which is really annoying and dangerous! I pull over as soon as is safe and I immediately see a long trail of oil; the back of the car is absolutely covered in oil; and what’s left (maybe half a quart) pouring out underneath. So 95% chance the drain plug was improperly tightened. But how hosed is the engine at this point? I didn’t hear any knocking, and didn’t see any smoke coming off the car until after I turned it off, but I’m concerned some long term damage was done here.
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# ? Jun 11, 2023 00:35 |
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The light comes on when there is insufficient oil to keep the switch depressed. If you shut it down in under 60-seconds, you are probably all right. I’d top off the oil and…drive it. Straight to Jiffy Lube, where you make them report the incident
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# ? Jun 11, 2023 02:15 |
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Maybe fine, maybe hosed. The oil light coming on means it ran without oil pressure for some amount of time. This also happens to the engine every time you start it so it's not a death sentence but it depends on how long and under what load. Idling no oil and full throttle no oil are the limits of how it can go for damage. Did you take pictures? They'll help. Get a tow? Keep the receipts. If you had it towed to a shop have them write up what they found in the most graphic detail they're cool with. Get all the paper trail you can. Call the oil change place and tell them what happened. Take it to a different shop and tell them what happened. What they should want to do is pull the oil pan and check the bearings. This is a pretty intensive job. If they find wear they'll want to replace them. If there's damage they'll probably want to replace the whole engine. I've worked at shops where we occasionally did repairs for hosed up work from other shops. I just did the wrenching, I don't know how payment was worked out. I do know the other shops footed the bill. Hopefully someone can chime in with how to make this as painless as possible. Maybe call your insurance company? Someone else hosed my car seems like their job but I don't know. Long story short, I didn't torque the drain bolt and your car blowed up = I owe you a new engine. Idk exactly how to navigate those waters. If you just refill the oil and drive, check out a company called Blackstone. They do oil analysis. It's like a drug test for your engine. You'll take a sample from the next oil change and they'll report back with oil condition and what's in it. If there's a bunch of metal dust they'll let you know.
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# ? Jun 11, 2023 02:36 |
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Monroe quick struts, can you replace just the mounts or do the entire assemblies need to be replaced?
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# ? Jun 11, 2023 22:39 |
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two_beer_bishes posted:Monroe quick struts, can you replace just the mounts or do the entire assemblies need to be replaced? In my experience “quick struts” have always been identical except they come with springs already installed for convenience. Just so you don’t need a spring compressor to install them.
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# ? Jun 11, 2023 23:12 |
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What's the generic name for the plastic tubing on this wire loom? Not the heat shrink, the flexible plastic jacket that's protecting everything.
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# ? Jun 12, 2023 00:39 |
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Safety Dance posted:What's the generic name for the plastic tubing on this wire loom? Not the heat shrink, the flexible plastic jacket that's protecting everything. I've always known that as a sheath.
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# ? Jun 12, 2023 00:42 |
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We call them sleeves or pigtail sleeves but terminology like that has a tendency to change depending on who (OEM, supplier, etc) you're talking to.
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# ? Jun 12, 2023 01:34 |
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I was thinking I would swap the ignition plugs, wires and distributor on my mazda 6 when I realized I am so behind on technology in my head even. Last gas car I owned before switching to diesel was a L98 5.7l engine and it used an old fashioned distributor. More modern engines use coil over plug so I think I will swap these all out, and the wires I guess. Gonna take this car for a longer trip in July and want to make sure it's ready for it. I don't know if they have ever been swapped out in the 220,000 km it has run (we've had it since 189k and only swapped plugs once) and I think the mileage it gets could be better for this car and motor. But I still feel a bit confused when looking at the parts. There's still this thing called a coil, which you connect the four wires to, it sorta reminds me of the role of the old style distributor. I guess it generates the power for the coil over the plug? So now instead of a coil and a distributor you got a central coil and then more coils over plugs and I guess the ECM controls when the main coil fires instead of a rotating mechanical device. Should anyway, should I replace both the central coil and the individual coils?
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# ? Jun 12, 2023 07:39 |
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His Divine Shadow posted:I was thinking I would swap the ignition plugs, wires and distributor on my mazda 6 when I realized I am so behind on technology in my head even. Last gas car I owned before switching to diesel was a L98 5.7l engine and it used an old fashioned distributor. When coilpacks start to fail you generally will see cracks in their body. My understanding is that this can progress to a point where they start to arc to the cylinder head or whatever. I'm assuming that you aren't getting misfires - I wouldn't really just replace the coilpacks for no reason the same way that people may replace plugs at certain intervals. It's not likely to solve any problem and the problems you get with coilpacks are so incremental in nature (usually) that you won't find yourself stranded because a coilpack died. The 'central coil' that you're talking about, I'm not sure what you're seeing. There used to be ignitors with remote coils that would go to the plugs, but most cars these days use 'coil on plug' designs where that functionality (a transistor that turns low voltage into high voltage for the plugs) is in the coilpack and it all sits on top of the spark plugs. I'm not familiar with Mazdas so maybe they use remotely located coils and have ignitors which feed into them.
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# ? Jun 12, 2023 08:01 |
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I need to take a look at the car later because I am unsure too now. I just went by what I was told. Might be what you say.
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# ? Jun 12, 2023 08:12 |
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Looking at the engine it looks a lot like an old fashioned distributor setup, this thing is the coil: And the wires look like this, at first I thought the long things on the end where the coils, but I am thinking it's not anything like that now. I think the coil is the first image and these are just wires.
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# ? Jun 12, 2023 10:35 |
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You are correct and I would not change the coil pack for no reason. They're much more expensive. Honestly the same with wires unless you think you have reason to.
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# ? Jun 12, 2023 14:16 |
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two_beer_bishes posted:Monroe quick struts, can you replace just the mounts or do the entire assemblies need to be replaced? Are you talking about the top hat/mount/bearing/whatever, which lets the entire strut and spring assembly rotate when you're turning? (not all cars have this kind of setup) If so, check Rockauto, look for top hat or strut mount (not strut mount bushing) - sometimes you can find them separate. If you're talking about the rubber bushings that the mounting bolts go through, if they've already rotted out, it'll be faster (and cheaper, if a shop is doing the work) to replace the entire assemblies - pressing new bushings in is a pain in the rear end. Note that the top mount may be part of what's holding the whole thing together; if it is, it's gonna be easier to just replace the complete assembly.
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# ? Jun 12, 2023 16:37 |
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Very lightly bumped a wheel on a curb the other day and now it’s noticeably out of alignment. This is my first time. Should I just take it to an alignment shop? Can they do anything if a tie rod or other steering component is bent?
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# ? Jun 12, 2023 16:50 |
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randomidiot posted:Are you talking about the top hat/mount/bearing/whatever, which lets the entire strut and spring assembly rotate when you're turning? (not all cars have this kind of setup) Yeah the top hat/mount/bearing/whatever. Rockauto shows a bunch of options, I just didn't know if the quickstruts were set up in a way that I could use a mount from another brand. This is for my MIL's jeep patriot, and I'll most likely be doing the work. The struts/shocks on the car now are about two years old, I'm debating whether or not to ditch the quick struts entirely and switch to a KYB setup or something that will last longer. I just don't want to have to do this twice if new mounts don't actually fix the problem.
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# ? Jun 12, 2023 17:25 |
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# ? May 14, 2024 06:19 |
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I snapped one of the mounting bolts on a Moog quickstrut, and was able to use a top mount from API. What kind of problem is it having? Aside from being a Jeep Patriot
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# ? Jun 12, 2023 18:03 |