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The Chairman
Jun 30, 2003

But you forget, mon ami, that there is evil everywhere under the sun
Yesterday I had a print going when I realized that I had accidentally grabbed a roll of PETG when I wanted to use PLA, so I stopped the print, threw out the incomplete print, replaced the spool and started it over, and now no matter what I do, PLA doesn't stick to the PEI bed anymore. The PLA just forms a wad attached to the nozzle. I swapped back to PETG and the first layer was laid down fine, so it doesn't seem like a height calibration issue. I've tried washing it with soap, then with alcohol, and it's still refusing to adhere.

Is this a normal interaction of PETG, PLA and PEI, and if so, is there anything I can do to fix the plate?

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Sexual Lorax
Mar 17, 2004

HERE'S TO FUCKING


Fun Shoe
had some pretty severe warping on an x1c pa-cf engineering plate print due to its geometry

tweaked some temp settings and i was still in funhouse mirror territory

a few swipes with the purple glue stick and we are back to easy mode at least until it comes time to get that bitch off the plate

let me tell you 0.6 nozzle pa-cf brims glue down exceedingly well like im talking structurally well

Bondematt
Jan 26, 2007

Not too stupid

The Chairman posted:

Yesterday I had a print going when I realized that I had accidentally grabbed a roll of PETG when I wanted to use PLA, so I stopped the print, threw out the incomplete print, replaced the spool and started it over, and now no matter what I do, PLA doesn't stick to the PEI bed anymore. The PLA just forms a wad attached to the nozzle. I swapped back to PETG and the first layer was laid down fine, so it doesn't seem like a height calibration issue. I've tried washing it with soap, then with alcohol, and it's still refusing to adhere.

Is this a normal interaction of PETG, PLA and PEI, and if so, is there anything I can do to fix the plate?

PETG sticks to PEI better than just about anything, so I wouldn't take it as confirmation of good z height.

PLA is pretty good at adhering to PEI too, but it does require a more accurate z height calibration.

I'd also try extruding in air and see if the PLA is just curling up on the nozzle. If there is a blockage or the filament is very wet it will do that and getting it to lay down a first layer will be a pain.

The Chairman
Jun 30, 2003

But you forget, mon ami, that there is evil everywhere under the sun

Bondematt posted:

PETG sticks to PEI better than just about anything, so I wouldn't take it as confirmation of good z height.

PLA is pretty good at adhering to PEI too, but it does require a more accurate z height calibration.

I'd also try extruding in air and see if the PLA is just curling up on the nozzle. If there is a blockage or the filament is very wet it will do that and getting it to lay down a first layer will be a pain.

The weird thing is that the PLA adheres to parts of the plate I hadn't printed on, so the calibration was otherwise good. I wiped the plate down with some ethyl acetate and now things are fine.

The Chairman fucked around with this message at 23:35 on Jun 8, 2023

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

The PEI plate I got came with an instruction sheet that said to hit it with 80 or 120 grit sandpaper when PLA stopped sticking

BMan
Oct 31, 2015

KNIIIIIIFE
EEEEEYYYYE
ATTAAAACK


Hadlock posted:

The PEI plate I got came with an instruction sheet that said to hit it with 80 or 120 grit sandpaper when PLA stopped sticking

That sounds like a good way to not have a PEI sheet

ephori
Sep 1, 2006

Dinosaur Gum

Hadlock posted:

The PEI plate I got came with an instruction sheet that said to hit it with 80 or 120 grit sandpaper when PLA stopped sticking

Mine was similar, but 000 steel wool or a scotchbrite scouring pad for PEX, not sandpaper.



[Edit] just noticed you asked about PEI, not PEX

ephori fucked around with this message at 03:14 on Jun 9, 2023

Rad-daddio
Apr 25, 2017
I decided to dust off my old circa 2015 Tevo Tarantula and see how well/if it still prints. The last time I used it was when it was still in my home office back in 2019.

It was cool to see that everything still seems good to go on the old Tevo. I still connect to it using Repetier host and run it with default Cura slicer settings.

Back when I first put it together, I added an aluminum baseplate, and I machined all the laser cut acrylic parts out of aluminum as well. I also put it in a gigantic custom enclosure because I measured wrong and made it way too big.





Here is my question:

I was planning on adding a direct drive extruder as well as linear guide rails to the moving axes. I've been putting it off since 3D printers seem to age in dog years. Would it make more sense to donate this thing to a middle school and buy a mid range Creality FDM printer? I'm mainly looking for a decent sized build envelope, without spending way too much money on it.

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Some random table says 000 steel wool is roughly equivalent to 280-320 grit sandpaper. Given the lack of scientific rigor in the 3d printer aftermarket accessories industry you can probably take that with a grain of salt

Emphasis on "lightly sand" though

mewse
May 2, 2006

Rad-daddio posted:

Would it make more sense to donate this thing to a middle school and buy a mid range Creality FDM printer? I'm mainly looking for a decent sized build envelope, without spending way too much money on it.

The work you did to that machine (replacing acrylic with aluminum) puts it on par with a creality machine imo. If you went with a prusa clone you could get 250mm on the X axis.

The current hot cheap FDM machines are sovol and elegoo neptune I think, rather than creality - if you're looking for cheap 300x300.

Rad-daddio
Apr 25, 2017
I'll look into those.

Also, does anyone have a line on Call of Cthulhu models that can be sold or at least licensed? My oldest has a group that they play with, so I figured it might be fun to print out some extra stuff and see if I can sell it on Etsy once I'm done with theirs.

AlexDeGruven
Jun 29, 2007

Watch me pull my dongle out of this tiny box


Got home and got my X1-C set up.

Holy gently caress this thing is fast.

Acid Reflux
Oct 18, 2004

AlexDeGruven posted:

Got home and got my X1-C set up.

Holy gently caress this thing is fast.

I still stand there in awe watching my P1P. It's like getting your first 3D printer all over again, only 1000% better.

Solenna
Jun 5, 2003

I'd say it was your manifest destiny not to.

BMan posted:

That sounds like a good way to not have a PEI sheet

I read this thread because it's neat and my husband does 3d printing but I am someone who has dealt with sanding stuff in my line of work and please don't sand your metal sheets with 80 or 120 grit paper it will scratch the everloving poo poo out of them forever. I actually wonder if they missed a zero because 800 or 1200 grit sounds significantly less insane.

Bondematt
Jan 26, 2007

Not too stupid

Solenna posted:

I read this thread because it's neat and my husband does 3d printing but I am someone who has dealt with sanding stuff in my line of work and please don't sand your metal sheets with 80 or 120 grit paper it will scratch the everloving poo poo out of them forever. I actually wonder if they missed a zero because 800 or 1200 grit sounds significantly less insane.

Yeah, green scotchbrite does amazing for me. Takes off that oxidized layer without leaving any marks.

Javid
Oct 21, 2004

:jpmf:

Solenna posted:

I read this thread because it's neat and my husband does 3d printing but I am someone who has dealt with sanding stuff in my line of work and please don't sand your metal sheets with 80 or 120 grit paper it will scratch the everloving poo poo out of them forever. I actually wonder if they missed a zero because 800 or 1200 grit sounds significantly less insane.

This is the second time I've seen that "80-120 grit on 1mm of PEI" instruction and that was my reaction, too. Either that or the person writing the poo poo doesn't understand how sandpaper works

Unperson_47
Oct 14, 2007



I was getting some piss-poor prints with my Neptune 3 Pro so I decided to change the nozzle and I see that it's just a complete loving mess in the hot end. Filament seeped out the top of the heater block. On top of that, the threads sheared off the heater block. Everything was to temp so I can only guess I crossed the threads or tightened the nozzle too much when installing the nozzle the last time.

Unperson_47 fucked around with this message at 10:07 on Jun 10, 2023

Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012

Yeah, there is definitely no reason to use 80 grit. It'll shred the PEI. If you are finding you need sandpaper that coarse to deal with the situation, it's really just time to buy a new bed plate.

400-600 grit is about right if you want to sand the bed. However, I don't recommend sandpaper at all. Instead use a green Scotch-Brite scouring pad. They are impregnated with aluminum oxide grit and are comparable to 600 grit sandpaper, but are easier to handle and are totally waterproof (you should be wet-sanding). They work great for this purpose.

Sagebrush fucked around with this message at 07:59 on Jun 10, 2023

Nerobro
Nov 4, 2005

Rider now with 100% more titanium!
to restore my PEI.. I was using 1500 grit and wet sanding. Left no marks, I did it until the water didn't bead anywhere.

Roll Fizzlebeef
Sep 9, 2003


I use one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Scotch-Brite-Non-Scratch-Dishwand-Household-Non-Stick/dp/B01BUMHHWA/

I have a dedicated one that isn't used for dishes.

Sauer
Sep 13, 2005

Socialize Everything!
I use a Magic Eraser and regular Dawn dish soap (nothing with moisturizers). Magic Erasers are melamine foam and act like super fine grit sandpaper. I used to use them to weather paint on scale models.

w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

Quick question that might have a lot of caveats. But are there any pieces of software I should look at if I wanted to manage a big print farm?

Brainstorming a world where I rent out a warehouse space with 50 printers and runoff batches, manage customer orders etc. Ideally something like octoprint to actually shoot of gcode to printers, but tracking order status, timelines etc as well.

w00tmonger fucked around with this message at 16:51 on Jun 10, 2023

Len
Jan 21, 2008

Pouches, bandages, shoulderpad, cyber-eye...

Bitchin'!


What do people do for wire management on the ender 3v2? I've been staring at this thing for a week now and I can't think of a good way to get all those wires back in the board box

IncredibleIgloo
Feb 17, 2011





w00tmonger posted:

Quick question that might have a lot of caveats. But are there any pieces of software I should look at if I wanted to manage a big print farm?

Brainstorming a world where I rent out a warehouse space with 50 printers and runoff batches, manage customer orders etc. Ideally something like octoprint to actually shoot of gcode to printers, but tracking order status, timelines etc as well.

I think you should be able to find production and inventory management software that would meet the needs in regards to customer orders and accounting for inventory of product and consumables, that might be the easiest portion of the request. Cost could be variable. But I don't think there is a purpose built solution yet that clearly integrates with octoprint. That would be the hold up. I don't exactly know the ins and outs of octoprint and what sort of API it has and what sort of functionality it has in regards to sending/receiving information.

If octoprint has a well documented API that is functional you could use Google sheets appscript to create a tool to manage this. That would be the most labor intensive solution on your end, but the cheapest and likely customized to exactly what you want.

I would think that one thing that you would like to automate if possible would be removing the prints from the printer and starting the next print. For that I don't know exactly how you could automate that.

Dr. Fishopolis
Aug 31, 2004

ROBOT
I use 1500 grit pads on my PEI every once in a long long while when cleaning it stops being as effective. Practically no pressure, just give it a wee scuff. I like the slightly matte surface it makes and it sticks like crazy for a long time after. I can't imagine using much lower grit, even 400 seems way way too coarse.

IncredibleIgloo
Feb 17, 2011





Here is a link to the associated API page for octoprint. It looks like you can poll for job completion level and estimated time for completion, etc.... so it seems possible to have octoprint tie in to something.

https://docs.octoprint.org/en/master/api/datamodel.html#job-related

Roundboy
Oct 21, 2008

IncredibleIgloo posted:


I would think that one thing that you would like to automate if possible would be removing the prints from the printer and starting the next print. For that I don't know exactly how you could automate that.

This is why people mount the printers at 45 or 90 degrees on the wall so the printer can just push the printer off. Or replace the bed with a belt so the prints just ride off to glory

Or hire children to free the prints

w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

IncredibleIgloo posted:

Here is a link to the associated API page for octoprint. It looks like you can poll for job completion level and estimated time for completion, etc.... so it seems possible to have octoprint tie in to something.

https://docs.octoprint.org/en/master/api/datamodel.html#job-related

Yeaaah ok. Looks like I can probably combine this and spicy to make something solid.

Already working on a pricing/listing tool for miniatures, so this should dovetail in nicely

E: looks like theres a couple forks for using octoprint in a print-farm setting so definitely workable, even if I'd have to rework things a little bit

w00tmonger fucked around with this message at 18:56 on Jun 10, 2023

Opinionated
May 29, 2002



Sauer posted:

I use a Magic Eraser and regular Dawn dish soap (nothing with moisturizers). Magic Erasers are melamine foam and act like super fine grit sandpaper. I used to use them to weather paint on scale models.

This is what I use too, you can get knock off magic erasers for cheap that hold up decently!

The new hotness: bas relief models made with filament changes, this guy is developing a program for it called Hueforge. A few sample models are up on printables, here's the ones I've printed so far:




https://www.printables.com/model/493864-pink-peony-filament-painting/comments
https://www.printables.com/model/495487-rope-ball-depth-illusion

Here's the dev and one of his testers models, if you look at their profiles you'll see some other available models.

Opinionated fucked around with this message at 19:19 on Jun 10, 2023

The Eyes Have It
Feb 10, 2008

Third Eye Sees All
...snookums
Woah, that's wild.

IncredibleIgloo
Feb 17, 2011





If you are looking into a print farm sort of thing you should consider getting a laser, like a Gweiki or Xtool or mtech. They are not any more difficult to learn and use than a 3d printer, and I think they can supplement your wares really easily, plus I think that they are just fun. They might be able to make a little more per hour of labor you put in as well. Maybe. But if you have a business you can write it off as an expense and then just use it for fun or making merchandiser boxes and whatnot to display stuff in and sell at markets or whatnot. Or pornographic christmas ornaments, that is what I did, got the local adult store to sell them for me.

w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

IncredibleIgloo posted:

If you are looking into a print farm sort of thing you should consider getting a laser, like a Gweiki or Xtool or mtech. They are not any more difficult to learn and use than a 3d printer, and I think they can supplement your wares really easily, plus I think that they are just fun. They might be able to make a little more per hour of labor you put in as well. Maybe. But if you have a business you can write it off as an expense and then just use it for fun or making merchandiser boxes and whatnot to display stuff in and sell at markets or whatnot. Or pornographic christmas ornaments, that is what I did, got the local adult store to sell them for me.

This is 1000% the plan now short term. Just brainstorming ways not to blow my brains out in a couple years if it turns out I want to retire from software dev

tracecomplete
Feb 26, 2017

w00tmonger posted:

This is 1000% the plan now short term. Just brainstorming ways not to blow my brains out in a couple years if it turns out I want to retire from software dev

Speaking from experience: consulting is a much more achievable way to do that than to move sideways into hocking either plastic or plywood junk.

Arcsech
Aug 5, 2008

tracecomplete posted:

Speaking from experience: consulting is a much more achievable way to do that than to move sideways into hocking either plastic or plywood junk.

This is contingent on wanting to continue to do software work for large companies and uh, I’m not the OP but my motivation to get out of software dev is mostly to do with wanting to get as far away from corporate bullshit as I can and consulting sounds like the opposite of that.

w00tmonger
Mar 9, 2011

F-F-FRIDAY NIGHT MOTHERFUCKERS

Arcsech posted:

This is contingent on wanting to continue to do software work for large companies and uh, I’m not the OP but my motivation to get out of software dev is mostly to do with wanting to get as far away from corporate bullshit as I can and consulting sounds like the opposite of that.

This exactly. Currently working full-Stack a d it's hell. Trying to dip back into QA automation until I can completely abandon that and get to making stuff for hobbyists etc on the side.

I'd rather be facilitating people's weird nerd hobbies for a living than stressing at a multimillion dollar contract with a client who wants the buttons on a page to be faster.

The Eyes Have It
Feb 10, 2008

Third Eye Sees All
...snookums
A-loving-men to that.

It's like Tolkien once said in response to an interviewer asking him to comment on claims his work was "escapist" in nature. Tolkien replied that that was the duty of a prisoner, wasn't it? To escape, and to take as many others with you as you could.


Personally I find the thought of caring and feeding for a print farm to be :discourse:

Sagebrush
Feb 26, 2012

Apparently in Mexico it is not a crime to escape or attempt to escape from prison, because their justice system recognizes that it is simply human nature to want to be free. Of course they will try to catch the fugitive and put them back, but escaping doesn't add any years to the sentence as it does in the USA.

Paradoxish
Dec 19, 2003

Will you stop going crazy in there?
Speaking as someone who literally does software consulting as a primary form of income, my print farm side gig was far more satisfying and fun even if it couldn't really pay the bills without substantial expansion. I don't know. Do what makes you happy if it can feasibly support you, don't die with your primary achievement being how much you worked.

Rad-daddio
Apr 25, 2017
A small side gig printing stuff sounds appealing. I'm guessing the majority of that market is tabletop gaming?

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Sockser
Jun 28, 2007

This world only remembers the results!




Sockser posted:

My Neptune3 max arrived today

I thought I had set aside enough space for it

I
Was not even close.




I need to build a dedicated piece of furniture for this behemoth and rearrange my entire print room

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