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randomidiot posted:I snapped one of the mounting bolts on a Moog quickstrut, and was able to use a top mount from API. Clunking coming from the front end. She brought it to the local ford dealer for an oil change and they want to charge her $1600 for two new front struts "due to the mounts noise". I think I'm leaning towards just replacing the quick struts to make my life easier and if they go out again in two years I'll replace them with something better.
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Jun 12, 2023 18:16
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blk posted:Very lightly bumped a wheel on a curb the other day and now it’s noticeably out of alignment. This is my first time. Should I just take it to an alignment shop? Can they do anything if a tie rod or other steering component is bent? Most of those places can order replacement parts yeah. Doesn't hurt to call ahead.
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Jun 12, 2023 18:36
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2014 Nissan Versa Note. Canada. We're about to take a 1,000 km (600 mile) highway trip with a loaded car (two adult passengers and some cargo). The cargo probably won't exceed 100lbs or so. Tires are currently pumped to the recommended sticker pressure of 36psi. Should I increase that to accommodate the load? Neither the sticker nor manual have any recommendations. They just list the one cold pressure value. This is a one time trip. We won't be doing this regularly by any means.
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Jun 12, 2023 19:56
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Mak0rz posted:2014 Nissan Versa Note. Canada. You'll be fine. Don't worry about it.
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Jun 12, 2023 20:11
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Mak0rz posted:2014 Nissan Versa Note. Canada. This is an odd question, but the answer is no. Youll be fine on recommended pressure for regular driving. Youre not even hauling that much weight between the passengers and cargo, so doubly no. Do not over inflate your tires.
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Jun 12, 2023 21:11
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Dr. Lunchables posted:This is an odd question, but the answer is no. You’ll be fine on recommended pressure for regular driving. You’re not even hauling that much weight between the passengers and cargo, so doubly no. Do not over inflate your tires. Yeah I've I have heard mixed advice on it. Something about reducing tire flexing when carrying heavy load. I'll leave it as it is then, thanks!
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Jun 12, 2023 21:46
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So looking at transmission bell housing adapters I ran across a weird pairing, a Miata to "BMW E46 transmission" adapter. I recognize that the factory Miata transmission is only good up to about ~280ft lb/300hp on the NB, and the short answer is "because the getrag e46 is good up to 500hp", but, why select the e46 in particular, especially with no shortage of domestic tremtec transmissions on the market
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Jun 12, 2023 21:56
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Mak0rz posted:Yeah I've I have heard mixed advice on it. Something about reducing tire flexing when carrying heavy load. Two adults and a hundred pounds of stuff is nowhere near a heavy load
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Jun 12, 2023 23:17
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What are the consequences of being over GVWR? I've only ever regularly overloaded my Miata, which had about a 320lb payload capacity. It looks like they're about the same, the ND's payload looks like it's still under 400lbs.
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Jun 12, 2023 23:28
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Depending on how far past, you can bottom out the suspension. Also you'll be putting more heat into everything. This usually shows up by killing automatic transmissions. Especially in hilly or mountainous roads. You also run the risk of cooking the brakes, again mostly on steep inclines.
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Jun 13, 2023 00:05
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For a couple years I drove a Ford Windstar minivan well over gross on a 1,700-mile vacation trip. 2-hefty adults 3-hulking teenagers - all our poo poo to clothe and entertain manbabies/ourselves for 9-days It squatted quite a bit but nothing blew up. Well, that's my story
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Jun 13, 2023 01:50
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Window Tint: Is ceramic any more durable than regular film or is it strictly better with regards to blocking heat? Youtube videos I've seen all seem to only really talk about the temperature differences I live in the North East and always just leave my sunroof vented, it really doesn't get that hot up here so I'm mostly just going for aesthetics. That said, I do often drag my doggerinos around and they may or may not scratch poo poo up so if it is more durable then I'll gladly pony up for it.
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Jun 13, 2023 15:27
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Why are used porsche boxter manual
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Jun 13, 2023 20:12
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Hadlock posted:Why are used porsche boxter manual The cars themselves are under $10,000 in roadworthy condition at this point. full salvage cars can be had for under $2k
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Jun 13, 2023 20:33
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Anyone have any experience fixing seat belt chime issues? I've got a 2014 vw beetle and recently the driver's side seatbelt chime keeps going off. I'm pretty sure there's just some wiring loose down there or something but I'm not terribly sure which wire down there controls it. The dealer is booking stuff out into July and I'd prefer not to deal with it that long if it's something I could wrangle myself. In the meantime I am also looking into local mechanics but a lot of ones I've spoken to in the past don't like dealing with VWs
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Jun 13, 2023 21:08
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I want to be able to fix this myself. I parked the front of my car over a parking block too many times and now this has happened. What tools do I need to fix this displacement of the bumber of my Cruze?
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Jun 13, 2023 21:21
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Your bumper cover has popped out of the slots in the fender that hold it in place. It just pops back in there. Get down eye level with the panel gap, make sure the tabs on the bumper cover line up with the slots in your fender, and just kinda shove. It should pop back in. If you need a little more room to work, there are probably some plastic trim clips in the wheel well there that are holding the bumper cover in place. If you remove them, you should have a little more freedom to get the bumper cover to pop back into place with the fender.
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Jun 13, 2023 21:26
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2018 Subaru Crosstrek (CVT) Starting to hear a humming noise from what i think is passenger rear when going over 50 mph, doesn't vary with engine RPM. Have I won the dreaded subaru wheelbearing lottery, and if so, is it bad to take it on a 250 mile round trip weekend getaway? I've got an appointment with the local indie shop next week, but we're heading out this weekend.
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Jun 13, 2023 21:54
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Powershift posted:The cars themselves are under $10,000 in roadworthy condition at this point. full salvage cars can be had for under $2k I thought used Boxster values had already bottomed out and were climbing these days In my own local looking theyre more expensive now than I remember them being ~5 years ago
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Jun 13, 2023 21:57
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luminalflux posted:2018 Subaru Crosstrek (CVT) could also be a tire problem, which i would be inclined to try to rule out first as its cheaper and easier to do so - i'd check date codes and tread wear and wear pattern to rule that out first. maybe get the tires rotated as that's quick to do.
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Jun 13, 2023 22:02
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At $2k for salvage I'm surprised they aren't used as kit car chassis more often
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Jun 13, 2023 22:03
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Hadlock posted:Why are used porsche boxter manual --- What's the recommended OBD adapter and software combo for iPhones? My parents recently had an issue with a CEL on a trip that an OBD reader would have helped with, but I know Apple locks down the Bluetooth so it won't talk to the cheapest adapters and I'm an Android user so I've just been using Torque Pro with one of the $15 dongles for years now. Bonus points if it also supports the MS-CAN connection for FORScan. Currently looking at the VGate vLinker FD+ on the hardware side since it seems to be the simplest device with support for FORScan on iOS devices, less sure about the software side.
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Jun 13, 2023 22:13
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:could also be a tire problem, which i would be inclined to try to rule out first as its cheaper and easier to do so - i'd check date codes and tread wear and wear pattern to rule that out first. maybe get the tires rotated as that's quick to do. I'll double check the date code, these are fairly new tires. Tread pattern looked even but i'll check that too.
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Jun 13, 2023 22:35
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wolrah posted:Were these transmissions possibly formerly attached to engines that died from the IMS issue? Probably the case actually yeah. Some are as low as $350 while others are closer to $1000 didn't check the year though
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Jun 13, 2023 23:52
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:Two adults and a hundred pounds of stuff is nowhere near a heavy load
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Jun 14, 2023 04:50
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2012 Honda Fit but I'm guessing this is a pretty generic question. I went to top up my tire pressure this morning and noticed that one of them has the hubcap misaligned with the fill nozzle, it's like on the edge of the cutout instead of in the center of it, am I safe to use force to spin it in to place or should I pull it off first, then spin slightly and put back in place? Luckily it wasn't on the tire that needed the most attention, but I figure I'll need it accessible sooner or later.
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Jun 14, 2023 10:33
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Brut posted:2012 Honda Fit but I'm guessing this is a pretty generic question. It's fine to spin it if you can, I think it might be very difficult though as they're usually held in there pretty tightly
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Jun 14, 2023 11:06
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I wouldn't be surprised if this is too vague to answer, but my 2012 Accord V6 has a weird noise at idle, even when warm. It's got a bit of noise in general which after googling makes me suspect that when the dealership did the timing belt ~10k miles ago they didn't do the tensioner but that's not the only noise I'm hearing. I can tell the difference in the sound from the crank and the sound from the valvetrain by pitch and tempo, the crankshaft in particular is weird. It will go maybe 4-5 times sounding identical and then there will be 2 (exactly 2) times where it is louder and has a lower pitch, then goes back to the normal noise. It sounds wet and almost sloshy, not like a standard knock. It's also possible that it's something else happening at the same tempo as the crank, I guess? I'm having a hard time placing where the noise is coming from but it sounds low in the engine bay from what I can tell. I might be wrong on that. I think the timing might be slightly irregular as to when it does those sloshing noises, but I'm not out there listening to it right now. The oil was low when I checked it, but the noise is still happening after topping it off. Coolant looks like it should, no milkshake. Temperature on the dash seems normal. It's dark and rained earlier so I can't see if there are any leaks by looking under the car. I'm going to call the mechanic when they open up but they're usually booked out at least a week, so I'm trying to determine how bad news this is. Whether I can drive it around town until he checks it out or if I need to keep it parked and find a different mode of transportation.
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Jun 14, 2023 11:35
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2011 2.3l 4cl & 2005 3.0l 6cl ford ranger is there a good free/inexpensive reference anywhere for learning how to work on these engines? i have the chilton manual and it's helpful. i want to learn how to do at least some of my own more complicated work and the 2005 will likely need a rebuild sometime in the next year or so. i've been ripped off by shops in the past because i am an easy target. my partner with the 2005 not so much though. i've poked around ranger-forums.com and a couple of youtube videos. all i've done on my own so far are basics like oil, battery, air filter, bulb changes on both & replaced the sway bar links on the 2011. any help would be greatly appreciated!
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Jun 14, 2023 14:10
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Id check if your library provides access to ALLDATA. If not, ALLDATADIY isnt too horribly expensive. Id also recommend watching repair videos for your vehicles. Lots of bad ones to sort through Im sure, but its always been helpful to me to see a preview of whats in store. Repeat this reading and watching habit for long enough, and youll gain some sense of any given project. Take the projects on, then youll get the other component you need, experience.
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Jun 14, 2023 14:42
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nitsuga posted:I’d check if your library provides access to ALLDATA. If not, ALLDATADIY isn’t too horribly expensive. I’d also recommend watching repair videos for your vehicles. Lots of bad ones to sort through I’m sure, but it’s always been helpful to me to see a preview of what’s in store. i wasn't even aware of alldatadiy! i remember seeing ALLDATA in a shop or two when i was a commercial driver for autozone but didn't know there was a version available for retail customers. also going to check with my library, free would be way better but the diy is pretty reasonably priced. thank you!
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Jun 14, 2023 17:00
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I have a 2022 mazda3 with about 5k miles on it and recently when I start the car up the warning light for the airbags will stay lit for a few seconds and occasionally I will even get a warning about an airbag system malfunction. It goes away within a couple seconds regardless and will sometimes pop up for a few seconds while driving too but it always goes away right away. This only happens when my car has been in my garage for the night and never happens when it's been sitting at work all day on the drive home, is this something I should get looked at right away or just some momentary weirdness from the humidity in my garage?. Just want to make sure the thing doesn't deploy randomly while I'm driving or something.
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Jun 14, 2023 17:18
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wolrah posted:Were these transmissions possibly formerly attached to engines that died from the IMS issue? On top of this - used parts are only expensive if there is a demand for them. If Boxster owners don't regularly need to replace transaxles, there's very little demand and prices stay low. It works the same for engines. The cheapest used engines you can find are ones like the Honda L15 where nobody blows them up and nobody wants them for an engine swap; $300-500 all day long with a warranty. But go look at a Mopar *.7 where half the vehicles that get junked are getting junked because the engine is blown up and they'll be $3k and gently caress you if you want a warranty.
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Jun 14, 2023 18:39
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IOwnCalculus posted:On top of this - used parts are only expensive if there is a demand for them. If Boxster owners don't regularly need to replace transaxles, there's very little demand and prices stay low. Yup. the zf box in the farm truck is three and a half thousand dollars plus because the flywheels came apart taking out half of them and the design flaws within took out the other half.
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Jun 14, 2023 23:35
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What are the rules of thumb for going up to heavier oil weights? I noticed that some new Toyotas are calling for 0W-8 oil, and they indicate very clearly in the manual that in a pinch you can use 0W-16, but you need to switch back to 0W-8 next oil change. I thought that in general running a heavier high-temperature weight was safe as long as you kept the same winter weight, so I'd assume that 0W-20 or even 0W-30 is safe, but the manually cautions against that pretty explicitly. Here's the excerpt from the manual, underneath a section saying "Use genuine Toyota 0W-8 oil only" 
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Jun 15, 2023 00:40
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Twerk from Home posted:What are the rules of thumb for going up to heavier oil weights? I'm no oil engineer, but I think the rule of thumb is not to deviate from the manufacturers recommendations. While most engine wear occurs as the car is starting (making the W # important), an oil that's more viscous than what the manufacturer designed the engine for at standard operating temperatures could cause serious damage. The whole point of these engineered oils is that they are ideal for the engine across a wide degree of usage and parameters, and you don't need to mess around with different weights at different. I'm pretty sure even the old trick for "fixing" loud lifters with heavier oil actually causes more damage.
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Jun 15, 2023 02:51
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I posted a while ago about wanting to learn to drive a manual. I mentioned learning it to my Dad and he very graciously offered to let me borrow his old '94 Ford Ranger for a while. Currently I can get up and moving and driving around my neighborhood. Hill starts are possible most of the time, but really steep hills are iffy. I have a few questions though. Anytime I lift off the gas the car jerks quite hard. Is that normal/anything I should be doing better? Doesn't seem to matter how much gas I give it or how slowly I release the gas it still jerks a lot. I was told I should plant my heel and manipulate the clutch with my ankle. Same as the gas/brake. But the travel on the clutch pedal is so long I don't see how to do that. Any tips? Sometimes when I am driving, the car makes a very worrying noise. I'll be in gear and coasting along not giving gas and it sounds like something is grinding/rattling. Giving some gas or pushing the clutch in stops it. I thought I might be in the wrong gear, but shifting up lugs the engine and shifting down revs the engine. I've had mixed messages on how to work the clutch. Some people say the clutch/gas transition should be smooth and continuous. No stopping in the middle. Others have said to hold the clutch at the bite point for a couple of seconds while the rpm recovers from a shift. Same for turns. I've heard I should hold the clutch in a bit to not go too fast through turns.
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Jun 15, 2023 04:03
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Travic posted:I ... Your automatic puts it in neutral/puts in the clutch automatically when you lift off the throttle, effectively. If you want your automatic to drive like a manual stick it in 1 or 2 instead of D and it'll get jerky too as it's holding the gear Opinions are like assholes, everyone has one (USER WAS PUT ON PROBATION FOR THIS POST)
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Jun 15, 2023 04:17
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Travic posted:I posted a while ago about wanting to learn to drive a manual. I mentioned learning it to my Dad and he very graciously offered to let me borrow his old '94 Ford Ranger for a while. Currently I can get up and moving and driving around my neighborhood. Hill starts are possible most of the time, but really steep hills are iffy. I have a few questions though. I think you need to spend some time on YouTube. I dont have a favorite video, but see whats out there and how someone else does it. Maybe even your dad. To get into some of your questions You should almost always use your whole leg to operate the clutch. I havent driven anything where that wasnt the case. Dont use the clutch to modulate corner speed. Keep the car in gear, use your brakes to slow down, shift if you need, and keep a steady accelerator to exit. I definitely feather the clutch and accelerator, but will let the RPM drop a bit to match where the engine will be in the gear Im shifting into. Likewise, you can blip the accelerator too to get RPMs up as needed. I think working on smooth launches will help you get more comfortable with all of these things, but it might not be a bad idea to get the truck checked out too. Mystery noises and a fussy clutch could be a sign of something off. Its hard to say from your description for certain.
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Jun 15, 2023 04:47
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Hadlock posted:Your automatic puts it in neutral/puts in the clutch automatically when you lift off the throttle, effectively. If you want your automatic to drive like a manual stick it in 1 or 2 instead of D and it'll get jerky too as it's holding the gear This is completely loving wrong, as usual. Stop loving posting already. Travic posted:. If it's jerking particularly hard it might have dead engine mounts, being a 30 year old Ranger. Are you lifting at high RPMs or does this happen even when you transition from acceleration to cruising? quote:I was told I should plant my heel and manipulate the clutch with my ankle. Same as the gas/brake. But the travel on the clutch pedal is so long I don't see how to do that. Any tips? No idea who is doing that, I've never driven a clutch with throw that short and light. Ranger is definitely a use your whole leg sort of thing. Just don't rest your foot on the pedal while driving. quote:Sometimes when I am driving, the car makes a very worrying noise. I'll be in gear and coasting along not giving gas and it sounds like something is grinding/rattling. Giving some gas or pushing the clutch in stops it. I thought I might be in the wrong gear, but shifting up lugs the engine and shifting down revs the engine. Maaaaaaaybe a dying throw out or pilot bearing... but again, 30 year old Ranger. They're rattly by nature. quote:I've had mixed messages on how to work the clutch. Some people say the clutch/gas transition should be smooth and continuous. No stopping in the middle. Others have said to hold the clutch at the bite point for a couple of seconds while the rpm recovers from a shift. Same for turns. I've heard I should hold the clutch in a bit to not go too fast through turns. The only time you should be slipping the clutch for any appreciable amount of time is when launching from a stop. If you are going too fast in a turn, use the brakes more and/or shift down, there's no reason to be coasting with the clutch in.
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Jun 15, 2023 04:49
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