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Thank you for the replies. The car jerks any time I release the gas. Whether I'm barely moving or going 30 mph and releasing it to cruise. It sounds like hyperbole, but even a hint of gas then letting off causes it to jerk. It makes it very difficult to get smooth shifts. Dad said it was the car switching from the engine driving the wheels to the wheels pushing the engine. But it seems awful harsh for that. Which reminds me of another question. Changing gears: All the way off the gas for the change or a little bit of gas through the change? I'll check some more Youtube videos. I've been watching a bunch and I asked Dad a lot of questions, but they all seem to disagree. So I'm confused. 
Travic fucked around with this message at 05:26 on Jun 15, 2023 |
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Jun 15, 2023 05:24
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You shouldn't need any throttle during an upshift. Your dad is right in that there is a transition between engine driving the wheels and "wheels pushing the engine", aka engine braking, but if it's harsh enough that you're really jerking around then that sounds like you're lifting off at fairly high RPMs.
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Jun 15, 2023 05:29
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IOwnCalculus posted:You shouldn't need any throttle during an upshift. Interesting. I'm not quite sure what to do. I'm just feathering the gas very lightly. Travic fucked around with this message at 05:49 on Jun 15, 2023 |
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Jun 15, 2023 05:47
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Travic posted:Thank you for the replies. Can your dad just take you out and show you how to drive it for like 10 min because that would answer a ton of questions you are having. You rev match when you're changing gears so the engine is spinning at the same speed as the part of the transmission that touches the engine. It's a different answer downshifting from upshifting, it depends how fast you shift, it depends on a lot of stuff. If you are in first gear it is going to be very hard to drive smoothly, this is normal. You don't downshift into 1st gear basically ever while the car is in motion, you can think of 1st gear like a forward only gear. Most people shift down gear by gear as they come to a stop, but from 2nd they just brake and keep the clutch in, shifting into first when stopped so they can accelerate again when it's time to go. Important thing here: it sounds like you're spending a lot of time with the clutch in when you're driving around. You should basically not be in neutral/clutch in when you're driving the car unless you're in the process of shifting or you're coming to a stop. Having your car in motion, with the clutch in while you're going around city streets as you're learning, is asking for a bad situation where you won't have the muscle memory to be able to accelerate quickly if needed. e: I get the impression that you might be driving the car in lower RPMs than you actually generally want to. Try shifting around 2500-2800 rpm for example for a couple minutes and see how that feels. If you're shifting too low in the rev range the car can bog down and shudder and make bad sounds that I think might be what you're describing.
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Jun 15, 2023 05:52
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Travic posted:, but even a hint of gas then letting off causes it to jerk. It makes it very difficult to get smooth shifts. Dad said it was the car switching from the engine driving the wheels to the wheels pushing the engine. But it seems awful harsh for that. I don't disagree with your Dad I haven't driven a ranger that I can remember but on a truck especially in first, also second gear typically those are pretty low gears, I'd expect some jerking there. My truck experience is mostly with a 7.0L F350 20+ years ago in high school but also on my lovely 1.9L passenger car it's jerky below 30mph which is probably the speeds you're practicing at the most right now. Letting off the gas at 15mph in 1st gear can be neck snapping. On my F350 I just skipped 1st gear entirely unless I was intentionally trying to gently caress with the passenger There might be some motor mount problems exaggerating the effect I can't speak to that and I wouldn't ask you dad to fix those on his truck. Motor mount and clutch problems can amplify jerking. My 1.9l car is due for a clutch adjustment to fix some occasional judder off the line Edit: VelociBacon posted:Can your dad just take you out and show you how to drive it for like 10 min because that would answer a ton of questions you are having. Strong agree
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Jun 15, 2023 05:53
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VelociBacon posted:Important thing here: it sounds like you're spending a lot of time with the clutch in when you're driving around. You should basically not be in neutral/clutch in when you're driving the car unless you're in the process of shifting or you're coming to a stop. Having your car in motion, with the clutch in while you're going around city streets as you're learning, is asking for a bad situation where you won't have the muscle memory to be able to accelerate quickly if needed. My bigger fear for the OP in that scenario is they inadvertently dump the clutch and go when they don't mean to, but unable to go when you need to go is also valid. Either way, coasting completely disengaged isn't something that should be done normally.
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Jun 15, 2023 05:55
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VelociBacon posted:Can your dad just take you out and show you how to drive it for like 10 min because that would answer a ton of questions you are having. I may not be explaining this well. Sorry. Driving around the clutch is out and I'm in gear. I only put the clutch in if I'm stopping or shifting. I'll try shifting at a lower rpm and see if that helps. I don't think it's the engine bogging down. I've had that happen a few times. This feels quite literally like a single quick jolt any time I let off the gas in any gear. I drove with Dad for a while and he did a good job getting me started, but well...some of stuff he told me was wrong so I'm unsure. I may just have to get someone else in the car with me. Thanks for the tips everyone. I'll see what I can do. Travic fucked around with this message at 06:41 on Jun 15, 2023 |
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Jun 15, 2023 06:30
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Travic posted:I posted a while ago about wanting to learn to drive a manual. I mentioned learning it to my Dad and he very graciously offered to let me borrow his old '94 Ford Ranger for a while. Currently I can get up and moving and driving around my neighborhood. Hill starts are possible most of the time, but really steep hills are iffy. I have a few questions though. Travic posted:I may not be explaining this well. Sorry. Driving around the clutch is out and I'm in gear. I only put the clutch in if I'm stopping or shifting. I'll try shifting at a lower rpm and see if that helps. I don't think it's the engine bogging down. I've had that happen a few times. This feels quite literally like a single quick jolt any time I let off the gas in any gear. Basic technique aside how trashed are the engine/transmission/differential/etc mounts in this thing? I feel like the whole driveline moving around would exacerbate any non-smooth inputs.
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Jun 15, 2023 11:40
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Yeah I suspect that it’s got 30 year old drivetrain mounts and therefore the transition between on / off throttle is causing a whole lot of mass to move around. Based on what the OP is saying this happens regardless of what is happening with the clutch (eg you’re accelerating/steady speed with throttle on and then the light ahead turns and you let off the throttle without touching the clutch, and this happens). If that’s the case it’s not a technique issue, it’s a 30 year old POS issue.
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Jun 15, 2023 12:07
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Travic posted:I may not be explaining this well. Sorry. Driving around the clutch is out and I'm in gear. I only put the clutch in if I'm stopping or shifting. I'll try shifting at a lower rpm and see if that helps. I don't think it's the engine bogging down. I've had that happen a few times. This feels quite literally like a single quick jolt any time I let off the gas in any gear. This youtuber has tons of instructional vids: https://www.youtube.com/@ConquerDriving.
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Jun 15, 2023 14:15
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I'm not sure about the mounts. I'll check them.phosdex posted:This youtuber has tons of instructional vids: https://www.youtube.com/@ConquerDriving. These are very good. Thank you.
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Jun 15, 2023 14:37
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Hadlock posted:Opinions are like assholes, everyone has one And yet you keep rubbing yours all over the keyboard. fwiw that is not at all how a convenctional automatic works.
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Jun 15, 2023 16:48
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Yeah sounds to me like a worn out truck. I used to have a lot of driveline slop in one of my cars and I could tap the throttle at the right frequency and amplify the lurching, I'd do it to shake my friends around approaching stop lights and make us all look stupid, was hilarious but really hard on the car. I even had that problem on my current car but only because the throttle was extremely sensitive at low speed, kind of like an on/off switch for the first part of its travel. When I had the car tuned I had the tuner remap the throttle and he took all the factory non-linearity out of it, now it's smooth as glass. So OP try a different modern car and you'll be amazed at how smooth and nice it is. Just be as smooth as possible, the rest is the truck's fault.
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Jun 15, 2023 18:54
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Thanks. I'll keep working on it.
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Jun 15, 2023 19:36
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It's a fun thing to be competent at but manual transmissions are going away with the petrol powered car, so in the next 15 years you're probably going to see the last of them in passenger cars outside of niche applications.
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Jun 15, 2023 19:39
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VelociBacon posted:It's a fun thing to be competent at but manual transmissions are going away with the petrol powered car, so in the next 15 years you're probably going to see the last of them in passenger cars outside of niche applications. 2024 Tacoma has one, so they’ll be available new for at least the better part of a decade
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Jun 15, 2023 19:44
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I just got a new to me F250 work truck with a rodent problem. No damage or nests that I can find, no stains or urea on the seats, but an incredible piss stench. The seats are upholstered but no carpeting. It's unusable until it gets cleaned. I think I got the mice all (2) trapped out but we'll see tomorrow. One detailer quoted me "$260 and we'll see where it goes from there. Probably will need to let it sit for a few days after for the cleaning chemicals to dissipate and if it lingers we'll hit it again." Second detailer says "Interior only for that vehicle size would start at $499 + $150/hr Biohazard fee." To me, that sounds like a place that intends to solve the problem the first time. Thoughts?
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Jun 16, 2023 02:14
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Any solvents that will truly solve the problem will dissolve the foam in your seats. I’m sorry about your pissy, pissy truck.
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Jun 16, 2023 02:39
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gently caress
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Jun 16, 2023 02:47
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If they were on the dash there's mouse piss in your defroster vents. Depending on how deep in they got, there could be piss all over your a/c evaporator and heater core. When a mouse got in my car i completely stripped it, seats, carpet, pulled the hvac blower to the point where i had access to everything. ran duct brush through all the vents, subaru a/c cleaner, pressure washed everything i could. If there's no poop on the seats, the smell might not be coming from the seats. They're a couple bolts to pull out, you can get them out and evaluate from there, but getting the mouse smell out of a vehicle is never a small job.
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Jun 16, 2023 02:55
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Right now I want to hang the grad student who knew there were mice in there months ago by their thumbs
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Jun 16, 2023 03:24
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I have seen no evidence of them on the dash. Honestly, physical evidence is very minor, there's hardly any turds and one slightly shredded paper towel with a whole untouched roll. But I know mice and have to assume they were everywhere.
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Jun 16, 2023 03:31
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Gutting the airflow is probably the best bet, since a lot of smell is gonna come from there. Next is deep wash and scrubbing, probably removing seats and carpet cleaning. With the seats out, shampoo and scrub those suckers too. Finally, you can try an ozone machine, though you don’t wanna gently caress around with it. Follow all safety instructions. In the end, once you’ve done all the deep cleaning, only you will smell it, nobody else will.
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Jun 16, 2023 03:36
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Yeah I don't want to do it though. It's cheaper for my project budget to pay someone with the skills, tools, and facility to do it than for me to attempt it myself. I want it in my fleet asap, too.
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Jun 16, 2023 03:44
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In an ideal world, it’s just a cabin air filter and a quick scrub of the housing. I wish the best for you.
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Jun 16, 2023 03:49
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Travic posted:Thank you for the replies. Personally I try to shift such that the RPMs are pretty close to where they'll wind up when I finish the shift - sometimes it means a tiny bit of gas, but usually completely off the gas. It's something that just comes naturally from experience, and it's different on every vehicle. It helps reduce clutch wear. And I'm agreeing with everyone else saying the motor mounts are shot. That's a LOT of weight moving a couple over a couple of inches. A good way to test them, though it takes 2 people - open the hood. STAND TO THE SIDE, DO NOT STAND IN FRONT OF IT, watch the engine, have someone start the engine. Tell them to hold the brake and clutch, set the parking brake, put it in any forward gear, and ease the clutch out until it almost stalls, then put the clutch back in (it won't hurt anything if it stalls, but they really need a foot firmly on the brake so it doesn't move). You're probably gonna see the engine tilt significantly (a couple of degrees is normal). Have them try reverse, it probably won't tilt as much, but it'll still tilt a bit in the other direction. Bruc posted:I have a 2022 mazda3 with about 5k miles on it and recently when I start the car up the warning light for the airbags will stay lit for a few seconds and occasionally I will even get a warning about an airbag system malfunction. It goes away within a couple seconds regardless and will sometimes pop up for a few seconds while driving too but it always goes away right away. This only happens when my car has been in my garage for the night and never happens when it's been sitting at work all day on the drive home, is this something I should get looked at right away or just some momentary weirdness from the humidity in my garage?. Just want to make sure the thing doesn't deploy randomly while I'm driving or something. Is there anything on the passenger seat when it happens? But with it being a 2022 with 5k miles, that sounds like it's a "make it the dealer's problem" issue.
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Jun 16, 2023 18:40
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In my manual 1995 Corolla, when I'm in second gear, and only second gear does this, but when I let off the gas and decelerate, there's a high pitched whining and clicking that lowers in pitch and frequency as the car slows. The sound disappears when I accelerate again or shift out of gear. The mental image i get is like a card being hit by bike wheel spokes, or like some type of arm is making contact with the teeth of a spinning ratcheting gear kinda thing. It doesn't seem to effect the operation of the car at all, I was just curious as to what it might be. Is this like a worn out synchro on 2nd gear, maybe?
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Jun 16, 2023 18:40
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Worn synchro would make it crunch going into gear, or sometimes pop out of that gear. It sounds like 2nd gear may be damaged by something like a chipped tooth. Drain and refill the manual transmission fluid and see if there's any forbidden glitter (crack the fill plug loose first; if it won't come loose, don't drain it).
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Jun 16, 2023 18:41
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Hey what’s my best shot at finding a passenger side power/heated mirror for a 2003 Toyota Highlander (silver)? Also, is there a simple way to fix the loose sun visors? Things I saw involve cutting it open and using a hose clamp, I’ve used a clip made of 11ga steel one time.
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Jun 16, 2023 21:14
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some_admin posted:Hey what’s my best shot at finding a passenger side power/heated mirror for a 2003 Toyota Highlander (silver)? eBay and car-part.com have a bunch of listings for these. car-part.com has one local to me for 35 bucks.
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Jun 16, 2023 21:24
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some_admin posted:Hey what’s my best shot at finding a passenger side power/heated mirror for a 2003 Toyota Highlander (silver)? On top of that, if it's painted, you MAY be able to order it from your local Toyota dealer, already painted, for less than you'd think. Depends how far back most dealers go on parts though.
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Jun 16, 2023 22:01
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Cool, I’ll check eBay and car-part.com! I found a paint match one on a car at lkqpart.com, about 10 miles away, but then I found just just the mirror part on eBay for $32. It’s my neighbors car so I gotta see what she wants to do. Thanks!
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Jun 17, 2023 04:10
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My wife's 2017 Subaru Outback started making a rough noise from the front left wheel while turning right a couple weeks ago. Today it started making a "ssssssss" noise from the same wheel. The middle of the wheel itself was noticeably warmer than the other three: it was painful to touch for more than a few seconds, but the others were just warm. All signs point to wheel bearing, right? Is that the sort of thing I should replace in pairs or all four?
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Jun 17, 2023 06:37
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Sarah Cenia posted:In my manual 1995 Corolla, when I'm in second gear, and only second gear does this, but when I let off the gas and decelerate, there's a high pitched whining and clicking that lowers in pitch and frequency as the car slows. The sound disappears when I accelerate again or shift out of gear. Does it happen in first as well or literally just second? I once drove a loaner Corsica that had been beaten within an inch of its life that had completely shagged motor mounts. In first and second and maybe even third, if you snapped the throttle shut the engine would flop against the chassis and vibrate the whole car. Safety Dance posted:My wife's 2017 Subaru Outback started making a rough noise from the front left wheel while turning right a couple weeks ago. Today it started making a "ssssssss" noise from the same wheel. The middle of the wheel itself was noticeably warmer than the other three: it was painful to touch for more than a few seconds, but the others were just warm. All signs point to wheel bearing, right? Is that the sort of thing I should replace in pairs or all four? I would also inspect for a sticking brake caliper, but either way, something is very wrong at that corner. If it's the wheel bearing I wouldn't worry about proactively replacing the other side, they just fail sometimes. If it's a sticking caliper I'd replace the necessary parts on that side but I'd do pads on both wheels. Travic posted:I was told I should plant my heel and manipulate the clutch with my ankle. Same as the gas/brake. But the travel on the clutch pedal is so long I don't see how to do that. Any tips? For shits and grins I tried this in my TJ today and even with size 13 feet there is no way you can maneuver your foot enough to keep it on the pedal for the entire travel, while keeping your heel planted. I don't recall my Ranger being any different in that regard.
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Jun 17, 2023 06:49
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IOwnCalculus posted:For shits and grins I tried this in my TJ today and even with size 13 feet there is no way you can maneuver your foot enough to keep it on the pedal for the entire travel, while keeping your heel planted. I don't recall my Ranger being any different in that regard. yeah because of that post i realized that in my car i actually do start out that way, i.e. with my heel on the floor and hinging my toe around the heel, but only for the free-play part of the pedal travel. after that first bit, once the pedal starts to have some resistance, i pick my heel up off the floor and push with my whole leg. it's been a while since i have driven a manual ranger, but i don't remember the pedals being close enough to the floor to consider doing this. definitely too far in my F100. thanks for posting about it, travic, i wasn't aware that i did this until we had this discussion.
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Jun 17, 2023 09:25
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I'll third or fourth or whatever the "use whole leg with clutch" POV. Can't do it in my 6 and definitely couldn't do it in my Mustang. The only car I think I could do it in would be a NASA Spec Miata. Sat in a couple while working at some NASA events and I swear it was like 3 inches of clutch travel.
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Jun 17, 2023 15:12
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totalnewbie posted:You are correct and I would not change the coil pack for no reason. They're much more expensive. Honestly the same with wires unless you think you have reason to. I took everything out, put it back and cleaned all connections basically. I drove it this week, carefully, and got about 36 mpg out of the car, which is pretty good for it IMO. So I guess I just need to keep driving like an old man.
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Jun 17, 2023 19:42
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His Divine Shadow posted:So I guess I just need to keep driving like an old man. Great idea 
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Jun 17, 2023 19:46
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Starter solenoid replacement--do I just sort of stuff the plunger and spring back into the housing when I put the new solenoid on and it works itself out, or do things need to be lined up in a particular way? Yes I probably should have figured this out before I took the solenoid off but it was pouring rain on me and I was super pissed off and disassembling with reckless abandon. International D358 engine.
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Jun 18, 2023 19:25
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IOwnCalculus posted:
I took the driver's side wheel off and poked around. No obvious bearing play, and I can spin the wheel by hand. There's a little bit of backlash in the tie rod end or steering rack¹, and it looks like the brake pads are nearing end of life. Are either of these consistent with an unusual sound while turning right? Either way, there's enough maybe issues that I might take it to the local Subaru specialist. 1: like a perceptible "thunk thunk" as I manually turn the wheel left and right. I feel the same thing on the passenger side.
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Jun 18, 2023 19:52
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