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are we sure that’s not a midjourney generated output
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Jun 9, 2023 13:04
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Hadlock posted:groverhouse.jpg Megasplits
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Jun 9, 2023 13:33
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This appears to be a low profile door sensor the previous owner installed as part of California mandated (and frankly a good idea) pool safety/anti drowning stuff. The part number (sw-att-v2) is hidden behind the battery, as is an AT&T logo  The part number shows up as a transmitter on eBay, I can't find any reputable retailer selling them. Also I can't seem to find the receiver unit. Not sure if this is part of an alarm system repurposed as pool safety or what. I was very surprised to see it is directly related to AT&T. Any thoughts? I'd like to use these door sensors as 1) they're already installed and 2) the Philips door sensors I ordered (and finally arrived) are like 4x as large and don't report back to a centralized unit(s) Does anyone know anything about the receiver unit? Or just replace it with newer stuff pmchem posted:are we sure that’s not a midjourney generated output Apparently the deck failed/peeled away from the wall where that one piece of siding is missing, and clipped the swinging bench sunshade on the way down. I'm like 40% confident this is a real photo, maybe more. The missing bulb in the security light on the wall and detail in each window looks pretty genuine. The story goes the AC units lived on the deck for whatever reason Hadlock fucked around with this message at 20:32 on Jun 9, 2023 |
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Jun 9, 2023 20:28
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Hadlock posted:This appears to be a low profile door sensor the previous owner installed as part of California mandated (and frankly a good idea) pool safety/anti drowning stuff. I'd probably replace it. A quick google search seems to indicate it's part of the AT&T Digital Life security system. If you can't find it they probably removed the panel. Someone's got a new control box for $35 on ebay but it doesn't seem like a simple door open/closed thing but part of a whole interconnected mess https://www.manualslib.com/manual/1391418/AtAndt-Dlc-100.html?page=13#manual https://www.ebay.com/itm/283129770053 I did find a couple of posts on this smart things forum talking about the DLC devices and trying to get them to work with smart home stuff but it sounds like they're a proprietary transmitter/receiver pair in the 433mhz band somewhere so you'd be looking at doing a whole RF receiver and microcontroller project just to interface with them most likely. https://community.smartthings.com/t/at-t-digital-life-devices/4304/6 https://community.smartthings.com/t/digital-life-contact-sensors/61382/2 This site had some more discussion about the system and repurposing it but from what I read the sensors are RF and the devices are zigbee or z-wave: https://support.suretyhome.com/t/repurposing-at-t-digital-life-sensors-accessories/3199/2 This is one of the sirens but it sounds like it doesn't pair directly with the sensor, it has to go through the controller box: https://www.ebay.com/itm/304853933102
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Jun 9, 2023 21:31
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Hadlock posted:
In most ocean-adjacent homes, the A/C units are set at least 6’-8’ above the tide line, on their own tiny decks. If you already have a deck at that level, or higher, it’s a convenient location, if noisy.
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Jun 10, 2023 14:05
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So looks like I just kind of missed a bit of dishwasher chat. Going to be replacing ours very soon, likely with a Bosch 800. Haven't pulled the old one, so I don't know exactly what I'm dealing with behind the scenes except that I'm fairly certain it's hard wired because there's a switch on the wall that controls power to it, and I'm also fairly certain it's a dedicated circuit, but I don't believe it's GFCI protected. All I've gathered so far is don't bother with paying for install... which I had assumed anyhow. But we have two small kids and run ours daily, so I want to get as much prep done beforehand to make this quick and easy and try to avoid multiple trips to the hardware store. So what all do I want/need to know before diving in to this? I guess the main question is: are the "install kits" universal, and is the one that LowesDepot tells you to buy sufficient? Or is there a "good" kit that I want to buy for a better/easier installation? Some chat earlier in the thread was about adding a receptacle in the case of having a hard wired unit. Is this smart, or a bit overboard? I don't really have an opinion about hard-wired installs... I'm perfectly OK with it unless there's a safety reason to change to a plug install. I guess my biggest thing here is I'm pretty sure the hard wired junction box is behind the dishwasher, so a proper plug install would have the receptacle accessible via the adjacent (under sink) cabinet, yes? That sounds like it's more work than I was hoping for, since I have no idea how things are run currently... I'm guessing I'd need to either get MC to go from the existing box to the new box, or re-run all the way back to the switch completely (which I'm not going to do). DaveSauce fucked around with this message at 15:19 on Jun 12, 2023 |
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Jun 12, 2023 15:16
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DaveSauce posted:So looks like I just kind of missed a bit of dishwasher chat. I never quite understood the goon obsession with not paying for install. I threw like $200 at my store and they delivered a fridge and Bosch dishwasher and installed them while I was doing stuff in another room. It included everything they needed and they did a much better workmanlike job than me since they do it every day. Not knocking the DIY but I totally get the appeal of thinking about literally 0 of the questions you are trying to figure out. One of the kits the store used includes an electrical outlet thing to convert a previous hard wire into an outlet. I think it was a Bosch kit, and I have a feeling it’s not strictly within code in my municipality to have appliance installers doing the work but it’s not enforced.
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Jun 12, 2023 15:41
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I got a new dishwasher last year and I forget what they wanted for install, but it req'd a plumber for whatever reason and that increased the price and wait time so I did it myself.
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Jun 12, 2023 16:14
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Inner Light posted:I never quite understood the goon obsession with not paying for install. I threw like $200 at my store and they delivered a fridge and Bosch dishwasher and installed them while I was doing stuff in another room. It included everything they needed and they did a much better workmanlike job than me since they do it every day. Not knocking the DIY but I totally get the appeal of thinking about literally 0 of the questions you are trying to figure out. Probably because 99% of the time “installation” is plugging it in and pushing it into a hole and $200 is quite a bit for that.
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Jun 12, 2023 16:36
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I mean honestly I'd pay $200 for installation if I could be comfortable knowing that it was done right. But after a fridge and a washer/dryer "install," I have zero confidence that they can do anything more complicated than those things. Because frankly they can't even do those without screwing them up.
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Jun 12, 2023 17:31
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I get it. It's a coin flip if you get the one competent guy, or the rando who can't hold a wrench correctly and started yesterday. And if you send that guy home/fire him halfway through either you do it yourself anyways or wait a week and hope you get someone better
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Jun 12, 2023 18:21
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I paid $250 to get all my appliances installed, they rescheduled because they didn’t want to carry a dryer upstairs, then they said they couldn’t install the dryer unless I bought an additional pipe. I called my local handyman and he installed everything for $40. My lesson learned was big chains suck
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Jun 12, 2023 19:54
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DaveSauce posted:So looks like I just kind of missed a bit of dishwasher chat. I hardwired my 800 because my house is set-up for the DW to be hardwired. I bought the Bosch kit because these units use a Jones plug for power. The Bosch kit has the Jones plug at one end, and a sturdy plastic junction box at the other, with nice, big lugs to hook up the 3-wires. The wire casing seemed to a bit thicker than the standard plug run that came with the washer. It made that part of the install very easy & quick. It's about $40. I ordered it first.
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Jun 12, 2023 22:49
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i had arcing issues with my bosch box just sayin the plastic melted and it started tripping the breaker so i stripped the cable and installed a metal junction box back there
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Jun 12, 2023 23:49
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I skipped paying for installation for my washer because it was $50 and just a matter of screwing in some hoses and then the delivery guy ended up "installing" it anyways, using a couple of C clamps to attach the discharge pipe to the utility sink, rather than the included bracket. Which, as I watched him do it, I was much happier with that then what it would have been if he or I had just strictly followed the instructions. So I ended up with the best of both worlds.
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Jun 13, 2023 00:31
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My door's old. The deadbolt and door itself look like they were just holes drilled in, and the strike plate is one big long thing. If I want to replace it with a keypad lock and new handleset, can I just drill the holes through the door with a hole saw bit and just take care to go at 90 degrees, or should I cough up for a jig? Also can I just re-use the existing strike plate if the latch and deadbolt fit through the holes?
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Jun 13, 2023 02:04
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MJP posted:My door's old. The deadbolt and door itself look like they were just holes drilled in, and the strike plate is one big long thing. If I want to replace it with a keypad lock and new handleset, can I just drill the holes through the door with a hole saw bit and just take care to go at 90 degrees, or should I cough up for a jig? You have a mortise lock right now. That big long thing extends into the door where the handle and lock are and removing it is going to leave a big void in the door. You'll have to remove it and fill the hole it leaves behind with a piece of wood and some wood filler otherwise your new handle has nothing to really attach to. Sand it smooth and then get the jig to cut the holes for the handle and latch. They're not that expensive and it'll make things more difficult if you try to free hand it imho.
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Jun 13, 2023 02:26
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Sirotan posted:You have a mortise lock right now. That big long thing extends into the door where the handle and lock are and removing it is going to leave a big void in the door. You'll have to remove it and fill the hole it leaves behind with a piece of wood and some wood filler otherwise your new handle has nothing to really attach to. Sand it smooth and then get the jig to cut the holes for the handle and latch. They're not that expensive and it'll make things more difficult if you try to free hand it imho. The lock and handle both would require me to drill bigger holes than the current ones anyway, and the handleset/lock themselves would go over them - would I really need to fill them out if there's going to be big holes going through 'em?
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Jun 13, 2023 02:49
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MJP posted:The lock and handle both would require me to drill bigger holes than the current ones anyway, and the handleset/lock themselves would go over them - would I really need to fill them out if there's going to be big holes going through 'em? Yes because otherwise there's nothing for the latch part of the handle to actually attach to. It will be floating in place. This is an interior door so your process will be the same just with an even bigger hole: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=goJv62Mpkq0 Sirotan fucked around with this message at 03:03 on Jun 13, 2023 |
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Jun 13, 2023 02:59
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PainterofCrap posted:I hardwired my 800 because my house is set-up for the DW to be hardwired. I bought the Bosch kit because these units use a Jones plug for power. Exact same as myself last week. There were nice instructions with the dishwasher for installing, as well as the Bosch wiring kit. You can probably find them on Bosch's website ahead of time and read through. It was really easy to detach old dishwasher, turn off breaker, turn off water, cut electrical wire, disconnect water hose and drain hose, and pull out the old one. Then connect new drain hose and water, wire in using the Bosch kit, slide in, turn on water, turn on breaker, verify it all works and isn't leaking, slide in, and attach to counter. Took maybe an hour with me testing and rereading things multiple times and checking my work over and over. Most "challenging" parts are I guess stripping wire and screwing in terminals or tightening the water connections?
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Jun 13, 2023 07:32
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Sirotan posted:Yes because otherwise there's nothing for the latch part of the handle to actually attach to. It will be floating in place. Is there any solution that doesn't involve an overnight wait? This is our front door, it'd literally be unlocked with no handle and visible from street level. While we're not necessarily a high-crime neighborhood I'd rather not rig up a temporary barricade as an anti-theft measure.
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Jun 13, 2023 16:50
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MJP posted:Is there any solution that doesn't involve an overnight wait? This is our front door, it'd literally be unlocked with no handle and visible from street level. While we're not necessarily a high-crime neighborhood I'd rather not rig up a temporary barricade as an anti-theft measure. I'm sure if you started first thing in the morning with removing the mortise lock and installing the block with glue it would be set enough to drill the new handle set holes by the end of the day, or earlier if you have a brad nailer to secure the filler block. Morning of day 2 you could remove your new handle set to patch/sand/paint. If you get the Bondo wood filler it is ready to sand in like 30min. Getting the filler piece to be the right size is gonna be the most annoying part, if you remove the mortise lock ahead of time to shape that piece it'll make life easier for you. Source: I've had to do this to 4 doors in my house so far. Edit: chaos option: its your door, you can put a handle and deadbolt literally anywhere you want. If you stick one or the other somewhere else besides where the mortise lock is right now, you can absolutely get it done in one day and then can go back and fill the mortise lock spot at your leisure. Sirotan fucked around with this message at 17:21 on Jun 13, 2023 |
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Jun 13, 2023 17:12
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Inner Light posted:I never quite understood the goon obsession with not paying for install. Bay area contractor prices, dude.  But seriously, the deciding factor for me was availability of installers. Bosch dishwasher self-install: 1 week delivery. Pro-install: add 5 more weeks for earliest window. Clothes Washer/Dryer Install+Haul (I opted for this) added three weeks to the wait time. If I could pay for timely delivery + service, I'd definitely do it; I just can't get any stores (big box or local) to loving do it.  (The fridge was my fuckup, though. I thought I could do it myself and self-ordered from the manufacturer to save $400 off the cost of the unit compared to HD or Loews, only to find out that the refrigerant draining regulations for fridges in CA resulted in it costing me more than $400 to get it legally drained anyway, since you have to be licensed to do it, it requires a sticker on the unit, and it's illegal for dumps to take non-stickered fridges.) Sundae fucked around with this message at 18:47 on Jun 13, 2023 |
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Jun 13, 2023 18:44
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MJP posted:Is there any solution that doesn't involve an overnight wait? This is our front door, it'd literally be unlocked with no handle and visible from street level. While we're not necessarily a high-crime neighborhood I'd rather not rig up a temporary barricade as an anti-theft measure. Could add another lock 
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Jun 13, 2023 22:01
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Inner Light posted:I never quite understood the goon obsession with not paying for install. Probably biased in the threads you frequent which has This just in, I'm a fool when it comes to estimating shower door installs. Waiting on another quote or three but the first one came in about double what I thought. They were very responsive though so if it's close it may be the winner.
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Jun 13, 2023 22:45
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Water main under driveway update: I finally found someone who would accept $500 to come out and pressure the water main up with helium and do an acoustic survey. Now I have a big blue duct tape X on my sidewalk a few feet downstream of the meter. I can't get anyone to give me a quote to demo/repair/re-pour the concrete. It's leaking like a mother and costing me $10-20/day in water so I'm considering tearing into the sidewalk myself and throwing a skinner clamp on there to at least stop the leak. I can throw a traffic cone in there and be good temporarily. What do I need to rent to cut this concrete? Concrete saw? Hand held air hammer? Full on jackhammer?
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Jun 14, 2023 02:46
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Gas-powered concrete saw with a 12" diamond blade. And all of the -pro. You can hammer-drill it with a Hilti, but that might take all day depending on the size of the hole required, and the depth & composition of the slab. Saw will get you a 3x3 hole in under a half-hour.
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Jun 14, 2023 03:15
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Muir posted:Based on the older edition of this article (https://www.nytimes.com/wirecutter/reviews/best-patio-furniture/) I bought and have been happy with the IKEA Applaro. Apparently that's now out of production, but I would trust whatever they recommend now to a similar level of satisfaction. I’m a landscape architect and this is a good list. Other brands that sell to consumers worth investigating: Fermob (French bistro style) Oasiq (contemporary) Brown & Jordan (beginning of high end) Country Casual (teak) Kartell (mostly modern plastics) The big box design furniture stores also usually have ok selections: Ikea Room and Board West Elm There are others I can’t remember off the top of my head, will edit as I can think of more
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Jun 14, 2023 04:17
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spf3million posted:Water main under driveway update: Just smash the concrete with your fists like a normal person
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Jun 14, 2023 08:32
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Back story: had sewer water back up in my basement after my washing machine went into its drain cycle. The water was coming from an under floor drain that I didn't know existed so that was fun but not really relevant to this discussion. I had a plumber come out and ultimately Snake from that place in the system out to the house trap and then from the house trap to the street via a vent that comes up through my driveway on top of the trap. Part of the snake job was to camera the main, it's cast iron with some small patches of rough corrosion but "not really that bad for 50+ years of age". Via the vent on that house trap he was not able to get a camera through it to go out to the street and he theorized it was because the trap was heavily corroded (yay $$$$$$) (but can't really confirm this corrosion, but as stated earlier a snake was able to get through the U and run to the street). E: we don't suspect the trap is at all involved in the initial clog as another branch of the system continued to flow fine even when the original portion was jammed up. Also he pulled a shop rag out of my pipes so that obviously wasn't helping. Right now water is running like a dream through the whole system, I even took probably 20 gallons of water in a giant tub and dumped it down the vent as fast as I could and could not get it to back up in the slightest, and I can barely see where water flows into this trap from the side coming out house so I know its not just backing up in the system further, it really seems that it's running through the trap very quickly. I know *eventually" I'm gonna have to do something with the main, but am trying to determine if I'm getting pitched on an expensive house trap replacement or if this is just plumbers being plumbers. I'll be getting a second opinion but haven't done so yet. Home ownership!
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Jun 14, 2023 18:17
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If everything works, leave it be. And look into getting a "service line" endorsement on your homeowner's insurance. If/when it happens again, the damage from the back-up is covered, and if it's caused by a failure of the soil line, the service line coverage will cover (up to a limit: $5K, sometimes $10K) to repair or replace it.
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Jun 14, 2023 23:03
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PainterofCrap posted:If everything works, leave it be. My dad is actually an insurance agent so I have everything you can have on my HO policy. The rub is that the service line stuff on those policies really falls in protection when the line itself is >50 years old. I live in Pittsburgh and my house is one of the newer ones in that it was built in the 60s. My previous house that I rented was 125 years old 🥴 Knock on wood this time the damage was relatively minor and something that I could clean up on my own, was just trying to be proactive in any sort of maintenance that I was thinking of doing. The silver lining is that if that trap eventually does close up and back up it will hit the next lowest spot which is an empty concrete garage, I just got boned this time because it wasn't that trap it was a smaller branch of the system. But yeah I'm going to leave it be for now because I need to stop obsessing about it. God drat it's been a stressful couple days.
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Jun 14, 2023 23:19
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Kind of a follow-up on this, The guy that I've been working with says that there is nothing you can do with a blocked house trap due to pipe corrosion, but you can hydrojet or descale sewer mains. Do we not have the technology to do something about traps? The only rub I see in my case is that I don't have a street side clean out, only house side so they can't really "floss" the trap.
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Jun 15, 2023 03:18
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I can floss your trap
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Jun 15, 2023 03:35
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cr0y posted:Kind of a follow-up on this, The guy that I've been working with says that there is nothing you can do with a blocked house trap due to pipe corrosion, but you can hydrojet or descale sewer mains. Do we not have the technology to do something about traps? My house trap story: when I was trying to buy my place the sewer inspectors I hired couldn't get their camera past my house trap and I was able to make a deal with the sellers to get them to pay for its removal. A week after closing the company came back to remove the house trap, started digging and encountered the water line right next to the house trap and told me they didn't want to risk continuing to dig bc the water line was in very poor condition and I should get it replaced. They didn't have availability to do the job at that time but could put the trap removal credit towards that job if I wanted. 6 months later (when the ground was no longer frozen) they came back, tore up my yard, and gave me a new water line and removed the house trap for like $2500 out of pocket. Somewhere in between those two activities they discovered I had another sewer clean out that was just hidden by a bunch of debris the previous owner left behind and were at least able to confirm my sewer line past the trap was in good shape. They never could really tell me why something like that was installed in the first place.
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Jun 15, 2023 12:27
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cr0y posted:Kind of a follow-up on this, The guy that I've been working with says that there is nothing you can do with a blocked house trap due to pipe corrosion, but you can hydrojet or descale sewer mains. Do we not have the technology to do something about traps? I also live in Pittsburgh and my house is almost 100 years old. I'm unsure how old our pipes are, but they're old as hell either way. I had a backup a couple years ago that also included a bunch of corrosion and the plumbers were telling me that I'd likely have to replace most of my piping. They ended up using a hydrojet (cost about $700) so that I'd be able to continue using water in the near term, but they ran a sewer camera afterward- turns out the pipes were actually in perfectly good condition after all of the buildup was jetted out. I even have clay pipes in the yard and they looked brand new on the video. So... they might be able to blast through your trap and clean all of your pipes. I'm not guaranteeing you'll have the same experience as I did, but there's a chance you won't need to replace anything. I will say that we had a new trap installed prior to us moving in as part of the inspection process, so our trap was clean and the rest of the pipes weren't. If they truly can't hydrojet a trap as the guy you're working with says, they might have to replace it- that was about 800 dollars if I remember correctly. If all you end up needing is a hydrojet and a new trap, you'll probably end up paying $1500-$2000 without using your insurance.
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Jun 15, 2023 15:38
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What is the correct way to pull some cables through an exterior wall into the interior? My office closet with my servers and switches has an ext wall. I would like to run 3 ethernet and 1 coax from the outside into the closet. Do I just drill a hole and seal it with silicone?
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Jun 17, 2023 00:43
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phosdex posted:What is the correct way to pull some cables through an exterior wall into the interior? My office closet with my servers and switches has an ext wall. I would like to run 3 ethernet and 1 coax from the outside into the closet. Do I just drill a hole and seal it with silicone? Basically, yeah. But use something suited for exterior use (sun and weather exposure).
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Jun 17, 2023 01:04
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All the external wiring on the AC units compressors we have was either really old, not up to code, or otherwise in need or replacement. We fixed all that yesterday and today and I actually got a good look at the AC system of this house. There are 4 compressors and all of them are from '89. I'm really, really not looking forward to replacing those, but that time is a-comin'
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Jun 17, 2023 20:15
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Canine Blues Arooo posted:All the external wiring on the AC units compressors we have was either really old, not up to code, or otherwise in need or replacement. We fixed all that yesterday and today and I actually got a good look at the AC system of this house. There are 4 compressors and all of them are from '89. I'm really, really not looking forward to replacing those, but that time is a-comin' What in gods name is your electric bill like?
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Jun 17, 2023 20:23
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