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Yeast posted:I can only really speak about contrast as its all I've used. Very interesting. I was hoping for that from what I have seen. This sounds like what I always wanted, but never found.
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Jun 17, 2023 22:58
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I highly encourage people to experiment with Contrast paints (and the other brands' versions of them). One pleasant surprise I had when doing some test models to paint dark armor (such as Black Templars, Deathwatch, etc.), was painting the "basecoat" a dark gray, then drybrushing a much lighter gray over everything, and then white over the most prominent edges. Then, go over what you drybrushed with Black Templar contrast paint. It will darken the dark gray armor down, as well as tint the highlights and just basically pull it all together. If I get a chance I'll do up some photos of the process.
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Jun 17, 2023 22:59
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Sydney Bottocks posted:I highly encourage people to experiment with Contrast paints (and the other brands' versions of them). One pleasant surprise I had when doing some test models to paint dark armor (such as Black Templars, Deathwatch, etc.), was painting the "basecoat" a dark gray, then drybrushing a much lighter gray over everything, and then white over the most prominent edges. Then, go over what you drybrushed with Black Templar contrast paint. It will darken the dark gray armor down, as well as tint the highlights and just basically pull it all together. If I get a chance I'll do up some photos of the process. There's multiple versions of this technique and almost all of them end up looking good. Basically using monochromes to get your light and shade, then using transparent colours / contrasts to get your tints and recess shading.
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Jun 18, 2023 00:01
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Magos purple is great to push some bruised flesh look with minimal effort Or drakari? GreenBuckanneer fucked around with this message at 00:30 on Jun 18, 2023 |
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Jun 18, 2023 00:28
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Started a guy 
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Jun 18, 2023 06:34
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Magos purple over a light pink base makes great exposed intestines and other viscera. I use it for all the hoses on my Deathguard. Shylish Purple on the other hand is too dark and saturated and I have yet to find a good use for.
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Jun 18, 2023 06:37
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Sydney Bottocks posted:I highly encourage people to experiment with Contrast paints (and the other brands' versions of them). One pleasant surprise I had when doing some test models to paint dark armor (such as Black Templars, Deathwatch, etc.), was painting the "basecoat" a dark gray, then drybrushing a much lighter gray over everything, and then white over the most prominent edges. Then, go over what you drybrushed with Black Templar contrast paint. It will darken the dark gray armor down, as well as tint the highlights and just basically pull it all together. If I get a chance I'll do up some photos of the process. I'd love to see the process, I'll probably try something like this soon.
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Jun 18, 2023 07:13
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Harvey Mantaco posted:Started a guy Perfect in every way
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Jun 18, 2023 08:08
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Harvey Mantaco posted:Started a guy
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Jun 18, 2023 13:47
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Finally getting around to uploading Ork Noboyz:      Pictures made me realize I forgot to do another round of Whites, I'll have to finish that up before spraying them with varnish!
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Jun 18, 2023 14:16
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I have only 1 Army Painter Speed paint so far, the Orc Flesh one. I think it's from the newer formula because it has a ball bearing in it. It always reactivates, even after a really good shake, days to dry, even when trying to apply varnish it seemed to reactivate. Is the orc green just particularly bad? I never had any reactivation issue with any contrast paints and I have about 15 if those
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Jun 18, 2023 14:20
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Lamuella posted:There's multiple versions of this technique and almost all of them end up looking good. Basically using monochromes to get your light and shade, then using transparent colours / contrasts to get your tints and recess shading. It works pretty well with just about any light color, too. I tried a very light blue (like an "ice blue") on a spare figure and it gave a really nice "blued metal" effect. I think that's because the Black Templar Contrast paint has a blue tinge to it, as well (the Black Legion one, on the other hand, has a slightly brownish tinge). Spitfires posted:I'd love to see the process, I'll probably try something like this soon. I've got some Primaris marines I need to strip the paint off of, maybe later this week I'll do up some photos with them. 
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Jun 18, 2023 14:33
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Tiocfaidh Yar Ma posted:I have only 1 Army Painter Speed paint so far, the Orc Flesh one. I think it's from the newer formula because it has a ball bearing in it. The 1.0 and 2.0 speedpaints both have ball bearings in them, so I suspect this is a 1.0 If you're interested, Dana Howl has a workaround for this: if you mix any regular acrylic paint with AP's Speedpaint Medium it will apparently apply just fine over speedpaint. Haven't tried this myself, but it might help? https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5RkANMwlBhA
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Jun 18, 2023 14:40
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The new speedpaints say if they're 2.0 on the bottle, iirc
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Jun 18, 2023 14:45
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Ok that's good to know, I was avoiding trying any more due to assuming I had a 2.0. Couldn't understand all the good reviews. That is interesting also that the medium in the next layer can prevent it. Thanks!
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Jun 18, 2023 14:48
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Lamuella posted:The 1.0 and 2.0 speedpaints both have ball bearings in them, so I suspect this is a 1.0 I've tried this and it still reactivated for me.
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Jun 18, 2023 15:59
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I haven’t had much luck with gulliman flesh or apothecary white; I think both need a much brighter undercoat than my regular zenithal
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Jun 18, 2023 17:32
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I love my contrast paints in my airbrush.
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Jun 18, 2023 17:42
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Toebone posted:I haven’t had much luck with gulliman flesh or apothecary white; I think both need a much brighter undercoat than my regular zenithal Apothecary white pretty much needs to go over white or just off white, you could maybe get away with a white zenithal over a mid grey but I wouldnt bet on it. Gulliman flesh works okay when I do a zenithal starting with a brown undercoat instead of black (then zenithal with white or ivory as normal) but over black it struggles. The brown gives a softer more organic looking shadow, the black looks far too harsh a shadow with the skin tone contrasts. TBH if a figure has a lot of exposed skin I now default to a brown undercoat with a white zenithal, the less stark contrast works well. Robots, vehicles and troops in armor still get the white over black though.
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Jun 18, 2023 17:57
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Toebone posted:I haven’t had much luck with gulliman flesh or apothecary white; I think both need a much brighter undercoat than my regular zenithal Yeah, weird thing you need to know about Citadel Contrast is some of them are closer to washes and need to go over an appropriate base. Either of those will be great over a Wraith Bone base, for example. Or you can apply them as shade/"lowlights".
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Jun 18, 2023 18:18
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 So i finished this guy and then immediately snapped the clear rod in two, literally seconds after I finished it. That had to be some kind of record. It wouldn't glue with superglue, not even with a catalyst. So I had to resort to plastic cement, which has a tint in it. I'll shave it down at the break, but it will be pretty glaring. Should I paint the rod to cover the break? If so what color? Edit: Also that print is just terrible, so many lines. It looks good from a distance though, and I'm not super concerned either. Necrons aren't an army I play much, but people I play with like them so I decided to build an army to loan out for games. I also have a warbarque of this quality, I might try to sand it a little. Virtual Russian fucked around with this message at 00:27 on Jun 20, 2023 |
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Jun 20, 2023 00:24
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I think it looks great and I still don't notice the break in the clear rod even though you pointed it out so I wouldn't stress about it at all.
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Jun 20, 2023 02:10
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I agree with the above: it looks good as is. I think it bothers you because you know it's a flaw and it's there - but as an unbiased outsider I can say it's not an issue and doesn't detract from anything.
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Jun 20, 2023 02:16
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I thought the lines were part of the design at first. No one will notice either flaw on the tabletop. Gaming models get damaged sometimes, trying to keep entire armies looking pristine is a hopeless task.
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Jun 20, 2023 06:16
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gently caress clear acrylic rods, get a brass pipe and just paint it black. having to repair your gaming pieces every time you use them or look at them wrong sucks poo poo. the printlines are fine, they add a greebled look at a reasonable distance.
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Jun 20, 2023 07:45
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Double dipping from the BRAND NEW Heavy Gear thread. Mixed bandit force consisting of looted, scavenged, borrowed, and defected North and South gears. General Purpose Dixie cup goon squad  Eclectic Fire Support/Strike squad 
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Jun 20, 2023 13:18
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Been about 2 years since I posted my first finished minis here and its taken me almost that long to get through 3,4, and 5, which will make up my first squad! I watched Richard Gray's video on painting Ultramarines for inspiration and am pretty pleased with the outcome so far. There are definitely more things I need to do, like continuing the edge highlighting I started on the Sergeant, purity seals, scrolls, re-painting the metal which dulled after the flat varnish etc. This was my first time using an oil wash as well as my first time using water transfers. Each process had me sweating a bit. I watched this video when making the bases and would do a few things differently next time, in particular the painted cracks as well as the general lay-out of the bases. The models are very bulky and the placement ended up looking a bit awkward. I'm pleased enough with these to put them aside for a bit and move onto something else. Any c&c is very welcome.  
Chacmool fucked around with this message at 03:41 on Jun 21, 2023 |
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Jun 21, 2023 03:27
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God drat those are sick
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Jun 21, 2023 06:12
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How would you make a surface look repainted? Like a captured tank pressed hastily back into service, or a poor paint job coming off, revealing the original scheme. I know some weathering schemes that show primer or bare metal or rust, but they don't end up working for me when trying to reveal a previous coat.
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Jun 21, 2023 07:59
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Cease to Hope posted:How would you make a surface look repainted? Like a captured tank pressed hastily back into service, or a poor paint job coming off, revealing the original scheme. I know some weathering schemes that show primer or bare metal or rust, but they don't end up working for me when trying to reveal a previous coat. My first thought would be to paint it in the underneath colour, then once it's dry do a heavy drybrush of the new colour.
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Jun 21, 2023 09:48
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I had a similar question actually, and I wanted to ask since you tried some things already .. have you tried painting in the original colour, applying spatters of masking fluid/chipping medium/hairspray, then doing the new colour? That was what I was planning to do, but didnt get around to it yet
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Jun 21, 2023 12:22
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Lamuella posted:My first thought would be to paint it in the underneath colour, then once it's dry do a heavy drybrush of the new colour. I would do it the opposite. Paint it the new color, and then drybrush, or sponge stipple on the old color. Then it will look like the old color is showing through where there's wear on the edges.
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Jun 21, 2023 14:57
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Bucnasti posted:I would do it the opposite. I'd do this, then add additional wearing within it in the larger patches so you can see it's wear abrading the layers of paint
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Jun 21, 2023 15:04
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I'm now tempted to get a few similar models and try it a couple of ways
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Jun 21, 2023 16:42
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I have an idea for a custom symbol I'd like to put on a Voidscarred Corsair Felarch's back-mounted banner. I am sure I lack the painting skill to draw it out myself. Is there a good way to make custom transfer decals? (I'm still new to mini building/painting and haven't used the transfers from the box yet though)
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Jun 21, 2023 16:43
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Comrade Merf posted:Double dipping from the BRAND NEW Heavy Gear thread. This rules and I'm glad Heavy Gear is still a thing people paint and play. Are the models plastic now?
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Jun 21, 2023 20:39
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Andy from Andy's Hobby HQ just released a tutorial on whitewash winter camouflage, so I bet it may have some techniques that are helpful. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EXZh8Jm_udY
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Jun 21, 2023 20:44
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SuperKlaus posted:I have an idea for a custom symbol I'd like to put on a Voidscarred Corsair Felarch's back-mounted banner. I am sure I lack the painting skill to draw it out myself. Is there a good way to make custom transfer decals? (I'm still new to mini building/painting and haven't used the transfers from the box yet though) You can buy ink or laser jet transfer paper both in clear and white. You'll tend to end up wasting a lot if you make just one decal but it's not too pricey. You can't print white though so you'll need to be aware of the colour of the surface you're applying the decal to unless you use the white paper, in which case you'll need to cut the decal out perfectly instead.
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Jun 21, 2023 20:44
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Jack B Nimble posted:
Thanks. Appreciate it  !
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Jun 21, 2023 21:13
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Tiocfaidh Yar Ma posted:I had a similar question actually, and I wanted to ask since you tried some things already .. have you tried painting in the original colour, applying spatters of masking fluid/chipping medium/hairspray, then doing the new colour? This only ever seems to feel good when the repaint is clearly something disposable (eg whitewash) or when showing rust, at least for me. It's also something I wanted to do on smaller surfaces where masking layers are less practical. Bucnasti posted:I would do it the opposite. This is good advice. It may be I'm overthinking it, and tricks to show (in-universe) primer with wear should work. IncredibleIgloo posted:Andy from Andy's Hobby HQ just released a tutorial on whitewash winter camouflage, so I bet it may have some techniques that are helpful. I'll have to check this, thanks!
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Jun 21, 2023 21:29
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