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Fornax Disaster
Apr 11, 2005

If you need me I'll be in Holodeck Four.

Warmachine posted:

Just model all your cars like they were found in a scrapyard. Would be a pretty cool theme for a shelf tbh.

I was going to link carsinbarns.com but it’s gone. It was a big collection of abandoned muscle car photos.

Barnfinds.com has interesting looking deteriorated cars -

https://barnfinds.com/400-4-speed-1969-oldsmobile-442/

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Lord Rupert
Dec 28, 2007

Neither seen, nor heard

Charliegrs posted:

There's also rally cars. You can do tons of weathering on those.

I’ve got a couple in my stash that would be fun to do up. Any good guides/advice for doing just that? I’m pretty green on a lot of weathering really, just engine grime washes and mucking about with some Tamiya pigments.

Chuck_D
Aug 25, 2003

Fearless posted:

Some kind of Lamborghini with mismatched panel colours, rust holes, peeling/bubbled window tint... It'd be a neat reframing of the entire super/hypercar concept.

That actually sounds super fun.

Midjack
Dec 24, 2007



Sash! posted:

Half of the work involved in model trains is making them look like they're on their way to the scrap yard.

The other half seems to be figuring out where to put the naked lady that won't be immediately obvious.

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



Lord Rupert posted:

I’ve got a couple in my stash that would be fun to do up. Any good guides/advice for doing just that? I’m pretty green on a lot of weathering really, just engine grime washes and mucking about with some Tamiya pigments.

For painting guides, I couldn’t tell you, but I’d look at a bunch of Group B mid- or post-race photos and see where the weathering happens. You’re certainly gonna have a lot of mud flung, rock chips, and general ephemera past the wheels and up the doors. Also keep in mind that rally crews won’t repaint or re-sticker cars between races unless they absolutely have to (like if a sponsor requires it), so you’re likely to have multiple races worth of damage and weathering on a single car. NASCAR this ain’t.

A lot of fun can be had if you imagine a story about the car. Maybe the driver and navigator had to pull the car out of some hedge row, or jacked up some bumper fastening clips backing out of a swampy ditch. Maybe they just pulled the wing off after the driver sent it a little too hard on an off camber turn and clipped a tree branch, leaving the spoiler only attached on one side. Maybe there was a serious crunch to a ground effect on the front of the car two races ago, but it didn’t affect anything structural, so they just zip tied and plastic welded it back into place, paint job and stickers be damned? Or what if they smacked a tree with the rear wheel arch and they just hammered the dent back out between races?

Bloody Hedgehog
Dec 12, 2003

💥💥🤯💥💥
Gotta nuke something
This is one of the best rally models I've ever seen, so emulate this.

ijyt
Apr 10, 2012

One of the rare times cotton-as-dust/smoke really works. Especially the photos of that piece shot with low depth of field, tricked me at first glance.

RillAkBea
Oct 11, 2008

stealie72 posted:

I picked up the Tamiya Honda 600 becsue I'm obsessed with tiny Japanese cars and am planning to paint/weather it as a slightly beat up roadster. Saw a video of one painted Tiffany/Bianchi blue-green with an ivory hood and roof and I kinda fell in love.

Japan made some really neat little sports cars in the 60's. :3: I've seen an S600 and a Toyota 800 at a museum and they really are super small.

Dr. Lunchables posted:

A lot of fun can be had if you imagine a story about the car. Maybe the driver and navigator had to pull the car out of some hedge row, or jacked up some bumper fastening clips backing out of a swampy ditch. Maybe they just pulled the wing off after the driver sent it a little too hard on an off camber turn and clipped a tree branch, leaving the spoiler only attached on one side. Maybe there was a serious crunch to a ground effect on the front of the car two races ago, but it didn’t affect anything structural, so they just zip tied and plastic welded it back into place, paint job and stickers be damned? Or what if they smacked a tree with the rear wheel arch and they just hammered the dent back out between races?

Or Samir won't listen and keeps breaking the car.

RillAkBea fucked around with this message at 13:36 on Jun 18, 2023

Bucnasti
Aug 14, 2012

I'll Fetch My Sarcasm Robes

Dr. Lunchables posted:

Race cars will have rubber in and around the wheel well, exhaust discolorations (in a decent sized area near the exhaust), the rims will be faded and hosed up by brake pad heat and flaking, and the paint will be streaked and oily from driving in a crowded pack. Add in that old phrase “Rubbing is Racing” and now you’ve got the perfect excuse to weather your cars.

The Petersom Automotive museum has a Ford GT that's straight from La Mans, it's covered in oil, scratches and grass.

Fearless
Sep 3, 2003

DRINK MORE MOXIE


Chuck_D posted:

That actually sounds super fun.

It's got me thinking how to do good rust holes, bubbled paint and orange peel at scale

MrUnderbridge
Jun 25, 2011

And the cheap bubbling window film - spray some clear decal with Tamiya smoke, then put spots of flat clear on the glass, and let decal silvering be useful for loving once!

And leave a corner or two folded up so it's peeling around the edges.

On that note - what model is available of the most expensive car?

Chuck_D
Aug 25, 2003

Fearless posted:

It's got me thinking how to do good rust holes, bubbled paint and orange peel at scale

Rust holes would be pretty easy. Use a low speed rotary tool to thin out the panel from the back side and then use a hobby knife to chip out irregular holes. The rest I'm not so sure about.

MrUnderbridge
Jun 25, 2011

Just remember to not put rust holes in areas that are plastic, fiberglass or composites! Not sure how much metal skins those supercars these days.

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



I wonder if paint bubbling could be accomplished by making little blisters of PVA glue during assembly. Orange peel at scale is a real headscratcher though

RillAkBea
Oct 11, 2008

MrUnderbridge posted:

Just remember to not put rust holes in areas that are plastic, fiberglass or composites! Not sure how much metal skins those supercars these days.

Unfortunately for weathering purposes, as far as super and hyper cars go, you're gonna be hard pushed to find any steel outside of the running gear these days.

RillAkBea fucked around with this message at 03:59 on Jun 19, 2023

ijyt
Apr 10, 2012

Just say it's a Games Workshop-sponsored Nurgle-themed car.

Unkempt
May 24, 2003

...perfect spiral, scientists are still figuring it out...
I used to love doing rusty cars, really tempted by the beaten-up supercar idea. Maybe do it rusty anyway? It's not like I'll put it in a show.

Unkempt posted:

AMT 1/25 1966 Mustang.

Got this for $3 so just had some fun with it.








Charliegrs
Aug 10, 2009
You can do a rusty supercar if it's old enough to have a metal body. I think the Countach was metal.

MrUnderbridge
Jun 25, 2011

And lovely bumper and window stickers! Does anyone make scale stick figure families?

grassy gnoll
Aug 27, 2006

The pawsting business is tough work.
Freehand those stick figures, surely.

tidal wave emulator
Aug 7, 2007

Similarly my gloss-coating game is very weak so I've avoided doing cars in the past, but I have been drawn towards Group B rally cars because that's not so much of an issue. Doing some sort of kit-bashed Mad Max style battle vehicle would be quite fun too.

MrUnderbridge
Jun 25, 2011

You should have a look at the technicals the Ukrainians have been converting or building.

Seeing a BMW armed with a rocket launcher or a machine gun armed dune buggy zooming around eastern Ukraine is pretty cool.

McNally
Sep 13, 2007

Ask me about Proposition 305


Do you like muskets?
Getting ready to move into a new place and I've been given the room with the ugliest walls.



Seven more trips and I think that'll be all the model kits.

Cthulu Carl
Apr 16, 2006

McNally posted:

Getting ready to move into a new place and I've been given the room with the ugliest walls.



Seven more trips and I think that'll be all the model kits.

Use the backlog to cover the wall - no more ugly wall and you don't have to worry and edging around the window or outlet covers

nomad2020
Jan 30, 2007

alternatively, make your ships dazzle.

Fake E: Dazzle painted StarTrek Enterprise when?

ColonelJohnMatrix
Jun 24, 2006

Because all fucking hell is going to break loose

Using the tips in this thread and some I found on YouTube, my second attempt at getting into airbrushing is MUCH smoother. That $25 dollar Harbor Freight Iwata copy has been awesome to work with. I've been working on my Tamiya Tiger 1 (allllll those wheels, ugh) and it's turning out great so far. Looking forward to posting pics when it's finished after completing a move.

Are there any good 1/35 armor FB groups to join? I ask because I'm part of a 1/24-25 scale big rig modeling group and despite me not actually having built a rig yet, it's amazing seeing the work guys are doing in that group.

grassy gnoll
Aug 27, 2006

The pawsting business is tough work.

ColonelJohnMatrix posted:

I've been working on my Tamiya Tiger 1 (allllll those wheels, ugh)

I feel you. I rarely give up and put a model back into the box, but i just got defeated by a really elaborate King Tiger kit.

It turns out this complicated German garbage is a pain in the rear end to assemble! Amazing tales!

Chuck_D
Aug 25, 2003
A dirt cheap circle template is a great way to airbrush those pesky road wheels. Spray the rubber color along the rubber outer rims, then hold the wheel to the right sized template to mask said rubber part, then spray camo color.

I use something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Staedtler-Combo-Circle-Template-977/dp/B000KIBQ46

ColonelJohnMatrix
Jun 24, 2006

Because all fucking hell is going to break loose

Ok, question about some generalities with model brands- what are the better brands to stick with as far as good instructions, fitting of parts and just general overall quality?

While I've only done sporadic static model building, I've been building radio controlled vehicle kits for many years and the various brands have differing yet fairly consistent experiences when building them.

Tamiya r/c kits are consistently amazing to build. Fantastic instructions and an awesome build quality. From the static Tamiya military models I've built, the quality is the same there. I LOVE Tamiya.

Outside of Tamiya, my only real experience with static models are with AMT and Revell. The quality of said builds are kind of all over the place. I'd say in general they are good, but not Tamiya level quality.

When talking military models, there are a variety of companies out there that I'm totally unfamiliar with but that offer some cool stuff. Can anyone give me a quick rundown of the good ones and maybe some of the ones to avoid? Or maybe some generalities? Hobby Boss is a company I'm interested in in particular. Much appreciated!

therunningman
Jun 28, 2005
...'e 'ad to spleet.
I think Tamiya is the king and will probably be for a long time. Consistently top notch. I've been building some of the old late 70's kits and even that old they still go together almost perfectly.

I believe Hobby Boss is the same as Trumpeter. They have a lot of interesting subjects. I've built a couple of Trumpeter and have some Hobby Boss waiting to be built. They have been pretty good and sometimes include things like metal barrels and photo etch. Tooling and engineering quality has definitely increased over time.

Ensign Expendable
Nov 11, 2008

Lager beer is proof that god loves us
Pillbug
Go on scalemates and check every time. Even good companies have reboxed kits from the 70s or licensed molds from some bankrupt trash heap in the mix.

My personal experience with some major brands from 1:35 scale only:

Tamiya: can't go wrong. They have plenty of very old kits, but those are usually dirt cheap, very simple, and great beginner kits. Their T-34 is hilariously bad though.

Dragon: good quality kits, terrible instructions. You might end up with enough unused parts to build a second tank. Warning: Dragon Imperial Series is something like reboxed Eastern Express.

Italeri: actively presents old kits with minor additions as new. They're not bad per se, just show their age. New stuff is still very good.

Zvezda: 90s kits are awful by modern standards, plus the molds are all worn out now. By the mid-00s the quality goes up significantly. Modern Zvezda kits are top notch, usually quite cheap, and tackle subject matter no one else does. Your local dealers might still have pre-war stock and probably haven't ordered anything since.

ICM: covered a couple of interesting subjects with okay quality, but I heard their newer kits don't keep up.

Masterbox: great figures. Poses and detail you won't find anywhere else. If you like Soviet Marines, there is simply no alternative.

Miniart: prepare to suffer. 1000+ part kits, tiny photo etch, thin plastic rods that will shatter as soon as you look at them. The end result is probably worth suffering for. Their tanks without interiors seem to strike a good balance between complexity and detail.

RPM: dummy thick and brittle plastic, but they cover a lot of obscure Polish vehicles, so if you want a 7TP or a TK-S or something you just might not have a choice. I got their new TK-S with a full interior and it seems like a fully upgraded kit though. Might be worth a shot, especially since they are also very cheap.

Hobby Boss: good quality no nonsense kits. Lots of inter-war Soviet stuff.

Trumpeter: okay tanks, awful figures. People seem to like their KV series, but there are better options out there now.

Edit:

AMT/Esci: terrible old kits almost exclusively.

Revell: huge mix of quality, probably because they're all licensed from someone else. Check the history of the kit on scalemates to find out who.

IncredibleIgloo
Feb 17, 2011





ColonelJohnMatrix posted:

Ok, question about some generalities with model brands- what are the better brands to stick with as far as good instructions, fitting of parts and just general overall quality?

While I've only done sporadic static model building, I've been building radio controlled vehicle kits for many years and the various brands have differing yet fairly consistent experiences when building them.

Tamiya r/c kits are consistently amazing to build. Fantastic instructions and an awesome build quality. From the static Tamiya military models I've built, the quality is the same there. I LOVE Tamiya.

Outside of Tamiya, my only real experience with static models are with AMT and Revell. The quality of said builds are kind of all over the place. I'd say in general they are good, but not Tamiya level quality.

When talking military models, there are a variety of companies out there that I'm totally unfamiliar with but that offer some cool stuff. Can anyone give me a quick rundown of the good ones and maybe some of the ones to avoid? Or maybe some generalities? Hobby Boss is a company I'm interested in in particular. Much appreciated!

If you like larger scale models Das Werk has a bunch of cool 1/16 scale WWII AFVs, and Andy's Hobby Headquarters has some as well. Andy's 1/16 Easy Eight is a wonderful model. It is big though; as you would expect.

Ensign Expendable
Nov 11, 2008

Lager beer is proof that god loves us
Pillbug
I saw Andy's 1:16 US Rifleman at the shop and it looked pretty good. I actually can't remember seeing any American figures in 1:16 before, almost all figures in that size are Germans.

MyronMulch
Nov 12, 2006

Zoukei-Mura are top-notch as well.

I have enjoyed building every Eduard kit I've built, with the possible exception of their 1/48 bf-110 and its awful engine nacelles. Their instructions and paint call-outs are great. Every model that I've built and said "Wow, that's awesome" has been an Eduard 1/48 WWII subject.

My sense of the Chinese manufacturers is that their tooling and engineering is generally pretty good, although their research might be occasionally faulty -- people complain about profiles and shapes being wrong. Their instructions, however, range from not good to awful. You will need to "model" -- test fit, look for parts being held off from where they're supposed to be and either remove or add material to get things to fit properly without ridiculous clamping force. Be prepared to stop and take a walk around the block so you can figure out how to get the drat thing together. I've tried Hobby Boss' A-6A Intruder and am currently on Kinetic's F/A-18C, and they are work.

MyronMulch fucked around with this message at 19:34 on Jun 23, 2023

MyronMulch
Nov 12, 2006

Modern Airfix has been good, too.

Ensign Expendable
Nov 11, 2008

Lager beer is proof that god loves us
Pillbug
Oh yes, I bought the Airfix Cromwell and I was quite impressed. It was nothing at all like our 70s craptank.

Cthulu Carl
Apr 16, 2006

Ensign Expendable posted:

Oh yes, I bought the Airfix Cromwell and I was quite impressed. It was nothing at all like our 70s craptank.

I got a MiG-15 and and F-86 from Airfix a few years back and they were really good kits, especially for the price.

ColonelJohnMatrix
Jun 24, 2006

Because all fucking hell is going to break loose

Thank you all very much for the contributions so far. It's much appreciated. I'm going to be researching models beforehand on Scalemates to see what the history is. The AMT kits I've messed with have been pretty eye opening in how quality can vary, and after pulling my hair out on a couple kits that are not fun to build, I realize it's been to find out whats what before buying a kit.

Charliegrs
Aug 10, 2009
What sucks is sometimes the worst companies are the only ones that make a certain model.

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Charliegrs
Aug 10, 2009

ColonelJohnMatrix posted:

Thank you all very much for the contributions so far. It's much appreciated. I'm going to be researching models beforehand on Scalemates to see what the history is. The AMT kits I've messed with have been pretty eye opening in how quality can vary, and after pulling my hair out on a couple kits that are not fun to build, I realize it's been to find out whats what before buying a kit.

Since you mentioned AMT it sounds like youre talking about car models? I don't think AMT makes any military models (someone correct me if I'm wrong). If you're interested in car models you might want to look at the Japanese companies like Tamiya (obviously), Aoshima makes pretty good kits, Fujimi quality can be hit or miss but they are the only company that makes certain models, and Hasegawa. Generally Japanese kits are good. But they don't generally make American cars so for those you're basically stuck with Revell (VERY hit or miss) or AMT (lol total crap).

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