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DAD LOST MY IPOD posted:Turns out having a baby at home is great for painting productivity. What's going on here? Cajun goblin rednecks?
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Jun 28, 2023 20:34
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| # ? May 9, 2024 22:57 |
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I don't like scalpel handles, they're too flat. But pen knife handles like xactos and stuff are entirely what I'm about.
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Jun 28, 2023 20:37
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Ez8 posted:What's going on here? Cajun goblin rednecks? Exactly https://www.wyrd-games.net/bayou-m3e
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Jun 28, 2023 21:23
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I love the mould line remover tool for shaving down areas of forgeworld resin flat, but as for actually trying to jam it into all the tiny areas of plastic minis that have mould lines I literally have no idea how you guys are achieving it.
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Jun 28, 2023 21:52
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Spanish Manlove posted:I don't like scalpel handles, they're too flat. But pen knife handles like xactos and stuff are entirely what I'm about. same. i bought an excel k18 for like $5 on sale and all of my other knives got demoted to holding razor saws or other specialty blades. it rarely loses tension, the collar is nowhere near my grip, and it's round but doesn't roll. basically perfect imo. you can get surgical scalpels with other styles of handle and replaceable blades, if you actually want medical scalpels. i don't like them because it's harder to find blades, it's harder to dispose of them safely, and unless you're willing to strop and occasionally hone a disposable blade, they lose their edge fast. unless you do a significant amount of wood modeling, i don't see the point. anyhow by scalpels, i was including xacto knives, which are scalpel-style, just without the concessions to sterility. that's not usually a big concern for people playing warhammer. i was just drawing the contrast with safety/utility knives and box cutters. i imagine there's someone out there painstakingly scraping off mold lines with a linoleum blade though
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Jun 28, 2023 22:07
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Silhouette posted:Treat yourself and get the best utility knife ever made. I've been using the exact same one for over 20 years and it's just as good as the day I got it. This would be too chonky on the blade to get where I need it to go, at least for me anyway. For utility blade action I run an Olfa with the snap off blades, copying my old man on that one.
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Jun 28, 2023 22:18
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I want to cut the hands off at the wrist on some Eldar arms I have so I can remount them on different elbow/forearms leading to hand positions held in front of the chest. Can I trust my clippers to do this without ruining anything or are those too brutish?
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Jun 28, 2023 22:49
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use a knife or craft saw. most nippers pinch rather than slice. a good way to keep both pieces under control safely when cutting them with a knife is to use sticky tac to hold down both ends.
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Jun 28, 2023 22:58
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SuperKlaus posted:I want to cut the hands off at the wrist on some Eldar arms I have so I can remount them on different elbow/forearms leading to hand positions held in front of the chest. Can I trust my clippers to do this without ruining anything or are those too brutish? Depends on a) your clippers and b) if you wanting the arms which are donating the hands to be still usable. If you dont care about the arms and just want the hands off them then basically anything will do, just snip them further up the wrist/forearm than you want the hands to actually be then file/sand off the excess wrist. Most hobby clippers are flat on one side but bevelled on the other so you'll get one piece (the bit you want) with a flat cut but the other piece (the bit you are cutting it away from) gets pinched. How pinched will depend on how sharp your clippers are, and how neat a cut depends on how well lined up the blades are against each other. Good clippers which are still sharp you could probably just cut at the wrist and get a nice neat hand amputation with minimal pinching on the arm. If it was a thick thing we were talking about I'd recommend getting a razor saw, but unless they've made eldar a lot more hench than they used to be they have thin arms, put the arm on a cutting mat, use a hobby knife to score where you want to cut, then just cut the hand off, ideally by pulling your blade repeatedly along the score you just made. Probably use some poster tack or something to attach the hand to your cutting mat before cutting because otherwise when you get impatient and just push down to cut through the wrist there is approximately a 100% chance of the hand pinging across the room and being lost in the carpet probably forever.
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Jun 28, 2023 23:08
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Thank you both. Yeah I lost a tiny magnet on a bit of arm that way.
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Jun 29, 2023 16:01
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What's a good thinner for Oil washes that isn't as strong as mineral/white spirits. I bought some a while ago and it eats through paints and the varnishes I add. I've kinda given up with it for now until I know of a better alternative.
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Jun 29, 2023 16:39
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Calhanol posted:What's a good thinner for Oil washes that isn't as strong as mineral/white spirits. I bought some a while ago and it eats through paints and the varnishes I add. I've kinda given up with it for now until I know of a better alternative. I'm assuming you're using acrylics, but mineral spirits shouldn't typically interact with acrylic paints when the paints are fully cured. It may be an abrasion issue, or an issue of acrylic paints not being fully cured, rehydration, or some paint-brand specific problem. Mineral spirits are the gold-standard for thinning oil washes. For both acrylic and enamels, I would recommend putting a varnish over your model before applying oil washes. This will create a barrier that protects the paint underneath from any abrasion/rehydration/chemical reactions. I recommend a gloss varnish. Afterwards you're done applying oil washes, an ultra matte varnish on top will seal things in and bring the overall texture of the model back to standard, while also protecting the oil wash beneath. For abrasion issues, I recommend using small makeup applicators rather than cotton swabs for removing surface washes. Makeup sponges and eyeshadow applicators work great for this, as they're much softer than cotton swabs. I don't typically apply varnishes on top of acrylics when applying oil washes unless I need it for recess shading or panel lining, but it is a good habit to get into as it can make removing the surface-level oil washes much easier. Verisimilidude fucked around with this message at 17:03 on Jun 29, 2023 |
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Jun 29, 2023 16:55
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After years of watching from the sidelines, I finally got hooked on the plastic crack and started with actually collecting and painting 40k. They're not very good, but they're mine and I'm having fun. Right now I'm still mostly just getting used to brush control and experimenting with layers/highlights, but there's one thing in particular I was wondering if anybody else could help me with: getting an even coat of bright white. I'm using Corax White as a base and putting White Scar on top of it. It works well enough for the cloth where I'm just dry-brushing it, but at other spots like the helmets and pauldrons I'd like a nice even bright coat. The problem I'm running into is that the White Scar is kind of a pain in the rear end, very runny and uneven as I apply it yet seemingly overly thick when dry even with just one thin layer. Any experience on how to work around that? Add more water? Use it nearly dry with lots of layers? Use it only for highlights with the relatively darker Corax White for the surfaces? Use a different colour entirely?
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Jun 29, 2023 16:58
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Calhanol posted:What's a good thinner for Oil washes that isn't as strong as mineral/white spirits. I bought some a while ago and it eats through paints and the varnishes I add. I've kinda given up with it for now until I know of a better alternative. As Verisimilidude said, if you put mineral spirits _on top of_ acrylic, it will have no affect whatsoever. They do not interact chemically. If you are putting acrylic on top of oils, you need to let the oils fully cure, which takes days at a minimum.
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Jun 29, 2023 17:06
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Perestroika posted:Any experience on how to work around that? Add more water? Use it nearly dry with lots of layers? Use it only for highlights with the relatively darker Corax White for the surfaces? Use a different colour entirely? Use a different company's white paint, tbh. White Scar is poo poo. Vallejo Game Color (or Model Color) White is good.
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Jun 29, 2023 17:06
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Gravitas Shortfall posted:Use a different company's white paint, tbh. White Scar is poo poo. Vallejo Game Color (or Model Color) White is good. Well at least it's not just me, then. I'll give the Vallejo White a try, thanks!
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Jun 29, 2023 17:13
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Verisimilidude posted:I'm assuming you're using acrylics, but mineral spirits shouldn't typically interact with acrylic paints when the paints are fully cured. It may be an abrasion issue, or an issue of acrylic paints not being fully cured, rehydration, or some paint-brand specific problem. I did exactly as listed above and still the mineral spirits seemed to eat though the varnish I have (army painter's air gloss varnish) and rub off the paint. Maybe I'm rubbing too hard on the sponges but I'm not sure.
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Jun 29, 2023 17:48
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Calhanol posted:I did exactly as listed above and still the mineral spirits seemed to eat though the varnish I have (army painter's air gloss varnish) and rub off the paint. Maybe I'm rubbing too hard on the sponges but I'm not sure. The issue is either not a long enough curing time for the varnish, or too much pressure with the sponges. I use the sponges to very delicately wipe the surface, almost no pressure at all. What brand of paints and varnish are you using?
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Jun 29, 2023 18:31
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I generally don't bother with varnishing over the acrylic layer because I want the oil wash to smooth over airbrush dot patterns or uneven brush strokes. But Gamsol has never eaten my paint ever.Gravitas Shortfall posted:Use a different company's white paint, tbh. White Scar is poo poo. Vallejo Game Color (or Model Color) White is good. I've been using this for cloth and other stuff without too many surface details and it owns.
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Jun 29, 2023 19:30
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Also, even the best white acrylic take one hundred million layers to get any kind of coverage. Instead undercoat in almost white. Vallejo extra opaque Heavy Warmgrey is my favorite for this (pinkish white), but ivory is also really nice. Any of a million light greys.
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Jun 29, 2023 20:00
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Perestroika posted:Any experience on how to work around that? Add more water? Use it nearly dry with lots of layers? Use it only for highlights with the relatively darker Corax White for the surfaces? Use a different colour entirely? White's infamously annoying to paint with. You could buy a heavy body acrylic paint that's so pigment dense that it goes on easier (after thinning it a lot, of course). GW whites are definitely not my favourite, anyway. You could also save white for just your highlights and rely on greys. Greys are a lot easier to paint with in that respect. Ulthuan Grey is a favourite of mine from the Citadel range.
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Jun 29, 2023 20:35
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I will second using Ulthuan grey for your whites as well. Then you can use the white scare, pure whites as highlights. Otherwise you cannot really highlight bright white.
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Jun 29, 2023 20:40
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I like using a variety of basecoats for white. Layering up from a khaki or light blue or light grey has worked very well for me
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Jun 29, 2023 20:42
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Finished the wraithlord from the Aeldari Combat Patrol
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Jun 29, 2023 20:59
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Lumpy posted:I bought a #11 scalpel with 1,000 blades for like $39.99 and I am set for life. And on a watch list, I hope.
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Jun 29, 2023 21:41
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I can highly recommend Pro Acryl bold titanium white. It’s coverage and smoothness is absolutely stunning.
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Jun 29, 2023 21:46
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Perestroika posted:Well at least it's not just me, then. I'll give the Vallejo White a try, thanks! Nthing painting grey and highlighting to white. See for reference Verisimilidude’s dudes above. The helmets read as white to our eyes but they are painted grey with white highlights. (Painted exceptionally well, but might as well use a good reference!)
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Jun 29, 2023 21:47
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Cease to Hope posted:a scalpel can do a lot of hobby tasks a utility knife can't, and the reverse is very rarely true. especially if you spend a significant amount of time modeling, above and beyond assembling and painting. i can't even imagine trying to cut a clean edge in putty with a boxcutter, or clean up nubs left on a fixer-upper second hand model. I've done all that and more with a simple (good quality, Olfa) boxcutter. I actually find the typical straight pointed scalpel too unwieldy for my taste. It's good for scoring through plastic or cutting out small decals where the boxcutter blade can't fit. Literally sculpted a few lines of miniatures with it. Cease to Hope posted:You can get concave curved Xacto blades, too. Xacto has their own, #28, and there are lots of ubiquitous clones of that, but other manufacturers make other shapes as well. The nice thing about using a sickle blade is that it can be replaced, unlike the mold line remover's edge. The mold line remover edge won't need replacing ever since its a machined edge on 3mm of solid metal and not a blade. The blades blunt and I don't think a stitch cutter blade will work as well as the mould line remover simply because of how the curve is shaped. Calhanol posted:What's a good thinner for Oil washes that isn't as strong as mineral/white spirits. I bought some a while ago and it eats through paints and the varnishes I add. I've kinda given up with it for now until I know of a better alternative. Sansodor doesn't smell, dilutes oils nicely and is very (almost annoyingly) non-reactive. It doesn't do anything to acrylics and I've found that turpentine actually does if you get enough of it on. I've painted over Sansodor based washes after 8 hours of normal drying or 15 minutes in the oven at 30 degrees. White/mineral spirits will dissolve acrylic paint, as will isopropyl alcohol.
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Jun 29, 2023 22:28
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Most countries will have an odourless (emphasis on the less not none) solvent, where I live the most popular brand is Gamsol. I have had zero issues with oil solvents interacting with acrylic paints. There could absolutely be something wrong with the type of solvent you are using though. I would suggest trying something else. There are plenty of videos online of painters showing that white spirit etc does nothing to acrylics, if you want to check for yourself. As for white paints I tend to avoid GW entirely even though they have some really great paints in some specific pigments and colours (they also have a bunch of terrible colours). They are more expensive, have worse bottles and often secretly change the formulation of colours so they no longer match. Any titanium white should have great coverage and brightness. Golden, liquitex, pro acryl, Schminke etc. Just be aware the titanium in the name is signposting it has heavy metals in the formula. Zinc white on the other hand will not have the same kind of coverage or strength (it is great for mixing though).
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Jun 30, 2023 01:44
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Ez8 posted:What's going on here? Cajun goblin rednecks? you basically nailed it in one. specifically these are cajun goblin fisherman rednecks.
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Jun 30, 2023 01:45
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Gravitas Shortfall posted:Use a different company's white paint, tbh. White Scar is poo poo. Vallejo Game Color (or Model Color) White is good. if you already have white scar, put some agitators in it and it's fine. that's a good idea to do with any titanium white, tbh. make sure they're actual stainless steel or glass, though, so they're non-reactive. i wouldn't go out and buy white scar on its own ever over some other reputable brand, but if you already have some, all you need is a small glass bead or two. Z the IVth posted:The mold line remover edge won't need replacing ever since its a machined edge on 3mm of solid metal and not a blade. The blades blunt and I don't think a stitch cutter blade will work as well as the mould line remover simply because of how the curve is shaped. the sickle blades work really well ime, dunno what to tell you
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Jun 30, 2023 05:31
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Cease to Hope posted:the sickle blades work really well ime, dunno what to tell you Different strokes then. Mould line remover is easily available and doesn't need another blade holder to use. Because one thing I've never seen before in a hobby store is a sickle blade. Only seen those in hospital so they're definitely a fairly specialist bit of kit (which applies to the mould line remover as well but there are a lot more GWs dotted around).
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Jun 30, 2023 15:01
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This mineral spirit thinner from a hardware store so it's probably too strong. I've ordered some gamsol to see if the artist based thinner is what I'm missing here. Once I've given it a try I'll be reporting back to tell you the results. Without it though I've done some good work with my imperial assault minis. Here are a few from my latest batch of completed and rebased minis.  
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Jun 30, 2023 15:40
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Z the IVth posted:Different strokes then. Mould line remover is easily available and doesn't need another blade holder to use. I would imagine this is a UK/USA area of difference. There are not very many GW stores in the US. The curved blade is pretty common here, especially in stores or kits that might target wood carving with the exacto set. For example Harbor Freight carries the set below, and has 10-20x as many stores as GW. Then all hardware stores will carry a similar kit, and craft stores, and I would assume hobby stores as well. 
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Jun 30, 2023 15:51
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IncredibleIgloo posted:I would imagine this is a UK/USA area of difference. There are not very many GW stores in the US. The curved blade is pretty common here, especially in stores or kits that might target wood carving with the exacto set. For example Harbor Freight carries the set below, and has 10-20x as many stores as GW. Then all hardware stores will carry a similar kit, and craft stores, and I would assume hobby stores as well. Yeah, this is the typical UK blade set.  From what I can see the sickle no 12 blades are pretty specialist here and you'll never see them unless you know what you're looking for and order online. Variations of the above blade set are commonly available everywhere though.
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Jun 30, 2023 16:24
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Z the IVth posted:Yeah, this is the typical UK blade set. I like how there's clearly a spot for a sickle blade. To tantalize you with the prospects of what crafting feats you could accomplish with those forbidden curves.
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Jun 30, 2023 16:35
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Just got a new air compressor and airbrush paint set, time to gently caress up some minis. 
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Jun 30, 2023 19:06
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Dreylad posted:White's infamously annoying to paint with. You could buy a heavy body acrylic paint that's so pigment dense that it goes on easier (after thinning it a lot, of course). GW whites are definitely not my favourite, anyway. Golden SoFlat Matte is my go-to here. It's a very good paint and the white goes on well after thinning.
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Jun 30, 2023 21:01
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And Golden is 100% employee owned! And about 8 miles from me! I should really do a factory tour.
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Jun 30, 2023 22:22
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| # ? May 9, 2024 22:57 |
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it's nice that there's a Good paint company to make up for some pretty bad ones
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Jul 1, 2023 02:09
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