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I broke my turn signals somehow. Was going to replace the rear taillight with an LED array, and now my turn signals, front or rear, won't come on. I don't even particularly want the turn signals coming out of the rear brake housing, as I'm fine with the stock dorky signals. But I don't know what I did exactly to cause them to stop working. I'll upload photos when I'm back in the house Lols, after I was done being an idiot i was oh yeah things have fuses, let's check those and the one popped metallicaeg fucked around with this message at 17:10 on Jul 4, 2023 |
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Jul 4, 2023 16:47
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morothar posted:Is there a functional point to bar end mirrors? Do they provide a better angle or something, or is purely some retro style element that eludes me? they are less likely to hit cars' side mirrors when lane splitting.
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Jul 4, 2023 17:34
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morothar posted:Is there a functional point to bar end mirrors? Do they provide a better angle or something, or is purely some retro style element that eludes me? IMO it's a tradeoff and ultimately the biggest upside is your bike looks a little cooler without mirror antennae. The bar-ends on my Rex do give me a better field of view. If I don't have my sidecases on, I have a great view of the road behind me instead of my elbows like on the rest of my bikes. But, if I do have em on, I get a great view of my sidecases. And I have to look down a whole lot further to see them than I did with conventional mirrors, which means my attention is diverted from the road for longer, which does worry me. I'm working on training myself to look down with my eyes rather than my head.
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Jul 4, 2023 18:03
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morothar posted:Is there a functional point to bar end mirrors? Do they provide a better angle or something, or is purely some retro style element that eludes me? Stock mirrors on pretty much any bike I've ever ridden (no matter how I adjust them) give me a great view of my elbows and/or shoulders. Bar ends get the mirrors out far enough that I can see behind me. I ran cheapies for years, but got a good deal on used CRG Arrow quick flips, and they're game changing. The mirrors are big enough, the materials are heavy enough, and the mounting system is designed properly so that everything isn't just a blurry mess in them - compared to an Amazon set, where one fell off on the first ride.
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Jul 4, 2023 23:08
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TheBacon posted:It is mostly style but they do put the point of reference further wider so you can see directly behind you easier/different angles. There absolutely is a practical use to ones that have some surface area to them and mount solidly enough to not vibrate to hell. I had these handguards on my KTM sumo and the mirrors were actually pretty good-- despite being on a paintshaker. They could also fold away, which was a nice feature. https://highwaydirtbikes.com/ 
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Jul 4, 2023 23:48
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I just use mirror extenders.
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Jul 4, 2023 23:48
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Stock mirrors here and they were large enough to fit stick on convex mirrors, which I slap on every vehicle I've had
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Jul 5, 2023 03:09
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Stock mirrors on the goldwing, because changing them is tantamount to changing the mirrors on your car iirc, the RV90 inherited the Bandit 1200 stock mirrors when it got bar end mirrors
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Jul 5, 2023 03:12
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I like my stock mirrors and actually bought a replacement for the one I broke.
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Jul 5, 2023 13:29
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The GN125 has such awful stock mirrors that $5 ebay specials were an improvement. Less vibration, more surface area, not as tall, about the same amount of rust.
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Jul 5, 2023 14:04
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Is there any maintenance I should do to my Bonneville that I’m not thinking of? I just finished a 2,508 mile trip and the coolant and oil I topped off before leaving are still sitting right where they’re supposed to be. I was considering doing an oil change even though the service manual doesn’t require one until 1 year or 10K miles (I’m above 5K now). Tires seem to be happy. Bike’s gas mileage is creeping up (unless I’m riding like an rear end in a top hat). Chain is cleaned and lubed and feels good. Everything seems to be perfect and I just want to keep it that way. I also had a 1 mph oopsie on a gravel road I took a wrong turn on that I don’t think I could ride any bike on and need to source an OEM brake lever and pedal. So far, that seems to be a pain in the rear end. Am I just stuck asking my dealer for one? Not a huge rush since the pedal can probably be bent back into place and my lever just has the ball broken off the end. The other very minor scratches are on some covers I’ve been considering replacing anyway. Gotta farkle and bling the bike just right. Really glad I had my good boots on so that my drop on to a dirt bank that trapped my leg for a second didn’t turn into something serious. Could have twisted my ankle pretty good but instead I just yanked my leg out and got to pulling the bike up. 
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Jul 5, 2023 20:51
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Assuming you did the initial service at 600 or 1000 or however many miles the mfr specifies (oil change, check for loose fasteners, appropriate fluid levels, etc.) then just follow what's in the owner's manual + add regular chain maintenance. Keep the chain lubed, clean it every so often, and check/adjust tension every so often as it wears.
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Jul 5, 2023 21:01
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I pulled in for the 600 mile service at exactly 600 miles after circling some parking lots because I was at 599. Next required maintenance is 10K.
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Jul 5, 2023 21:14
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Geekboy posted:I pulled in for the 600 mile service at exactly 600 miles after circling some parking lots because I was at 599. How do we workshop this into the thread title?
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Jul 5, 2023 22:07
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Geekboy posted:Is there any maintenance I should do to my Bonneville that I’m not thinking of? Have you checked the valve clearances? Usually you have to do them a few times when the bike is new, and then the intervals where you have to actually adjust them tend to get longer and longer. The Bonneville seems kinda old-tech; does it have screw adjusters, or shims?
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Jul 5, 2023 22:19
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The Bonnie has shim adjusters the size of Olympic medals and I have never seen the clearances move on even the most abused examples
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Jul 5, 2023 22:26
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Nidhg00670000 posted:How do we workshop this into the thread title? Yeah I didn’t know what to do with it but someone’s gotta do something right?
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Jul 5, 2023 22:36
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Geekboy posted:I pulled in for the 600 mile service at exactly 600 miles after circling some parking lots because I was at 599. Aw, that's a shame. Everyone knows if you bring it in right at 599 they give you a free Honda 599 to take home
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Jul 5, 2023 23:27
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Geekboy posted:I also had a 1 mph oopsie on a gravel road I took a wrong turn on that I don’t think I could ride any bike on and need to source an OEM brake lever and pedal. So far, that seems to be a pain in the rear end. Am I just stuck asking my dealer for one? Not a huge rush since the pedal can probably be bent back into place and my lever just has the ball broken off the end. You want the ball on the end so in case you crash again you don't get stabbed by your lever. I assume you are planning to replace but stating the obvious just in case!! Does Triumph lock down their OEM part supply? I can buy Genuine Honda Parts® really easily.
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Jul 5, 2023 23:55
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If the foot brake is steel, bend it back. If it's alloy, replace.
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Jul 6, 2023 00:03
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Today’s question is in which particular way I am an idiot. So I’m riding through town on my brand-spanking new Trident 660, 50 miles on the odo, and I’m in 5th gear. Coming up on a red light, I’m starting to downshift and… nothing. The clutch clutches, and the shifter moves, but it doesn’t *shift* - there’s no mechanical actuation, and the gear’s stuck in 5th. I come to a halt, try some more downshifting, eventually put out the kickstand and push the bike to the side of the road. I have to pull the clutch in, as it’s still stuck in 5th. On the side of the road, I try the usual: move the bike, feather the clutch, fail to shift gears, and curse the British. All in glorious 90+ degree weather, strictly atgatt. Eventually, I figure I can feather the clutch and get it back home in 5th, and manage the trip back. So now the question is: am I an idiot for buying a bike built by some turnip farmers instead of a Yamaha MT-09, or am I an idiot because im missing something obvious? Dealer was closed by the time I got home; going to talk to them tomorrow.
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Jul 6, 2023 00:25
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I mean the bike has to be moving for the gearbox to work so there's that, you can't shift while standing still (besides into/out of neutral). It does sound like something has physically broken if you're able to move the lever and have nothing mechanical happening at all. Maybe check it isn't loose on the spline or something. Weird defect to have, not something the small triple does in my experience but maybe they changed a spring or something for the learner model. A cautionary tale that I'd be interested to know the outcome of.
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Jul 6, 2023 00:30
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Quote is not edit ffs
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Jul 6, 2023 00:31
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Geekboy posted:I was considering doing an oil change even though the service manual doesn’t require one until 1 year or 10K miles (I’m above 5K now).
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Jul 6, 2023 02:22
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On my little Honda learner bike oil changes were a treat since the gear shifts were so incredibly smooth with fresh oil on that thing. Also it took just a liter so I changed oil pretty frequently just for the shifter feel. Filters were a bit involved to change though what with fairings and so on so I kept those for the entire book interval. The current Suzuki isn't as nice shifting so I don't feel like there's any point to changing oil any more frequent than what the book says. On my shitbox of a car I change oil in the winter since it normally rolls a bit less than 10 megameters anually so it turns out about right and it's easy to remember. "It's christmas again, oh yeah car needs new oil about now".
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Jul 6, 2023 08:46
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e: never mind I can just easily google this
Pie Colony fucked around with this message at 20:27 on Jul 7, 2023 |
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Jul 7, 2023 20:17
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Bike’s loaded on a trailer, off to Triumph Cleveland tomorrow morning.
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Jul 8, 2023 01:45
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I'm selling my bike on Craigslist and have never sold something this expensive before, nor have I ever sold a registered vehicle. My main concern is how I can protect myself from getting scammed. Is cash basically the only way to go, or is doing something like Zelle safe? Should I get one of those anti-counterfeit markers to check bills? Any other best practices to consider?
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Jul 9, 2023 00:07
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Yeah cash only. Cash in hand to ride. They crash it they bought it. I wouldn’t really be concerned about counterfeit bills unless that’s a common issue over there.
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Jul 9, 2023 00:09
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Cashier's/certified cheque/bank draft? Basically, they go to the bank who issues them a cheque for whatever amount, which obviously the bank won't do unless they have the $$$ in their account. And yeah, no test rides unless cash in hand. They break, they buy.
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Jul 9, 2023 00:17
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Idk how it is in other countries but it's also safe to dismiss any and all inquiries that aren't just 'when can I come and look at the bike' Nobody offering a price via text message or email will ever buy the bike Nobody asking anything specific like when was the oil done etc via text message or email will ever buy the bike The only potentially legitimate inquiries are the ones who just want to look at the bike in person, just imagine what you would do if you were genuinely interested in buying a bike and go from there. I say potentially because only one in 3-4 will actually come and look at it in person.
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Jul 9, 2023 00:21
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Yeah, I got a “would you be willing to finance the bike or take payments?” and I was like lol. Most of what I’ve gotten that may have been a scam was very obviously a possible scam.
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Jul 9, 2023 00:39
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T Zero posted:nor have I ever sold a registered vehicle. Make sure your state doesn’t require you to submit a form to un-own/un-register the bike from you, some states will bill you for tax and registration every year until you act to prove you sold the bike. Also depending on your state do not let someone keep your plate(s). At very worst I’ve let them ride it and followed them home to take the plate off as soon as the bike is “delivered” but ideally they bring their own plate or truck/trailer. RadioPassive fucked around with this message at 00:55 on Jul 9, 2023 |
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Jul 9, 2023 00:52
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Yeah, fill out your report of sale and submit it to the proper authorities where you live, if applicable. I do this immediately after the sale. If the buyer abandons the vehicle by the side of the road on the way home, I don't want to be responsible for it.
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Jul 9, 2023 00:59
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I bought my first bike over text message, but the last thing I did was have him talk to my bank so he knew I was legit then I went over and test drove it.
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Jul 9, 2023 01:42
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T Zero posted:I'm selling my bike on Craigslist and have never sold something this expensive before, nor have I ever sold a registered vehicle. Zelle is safe up to $3K, but block anyone that mentions a “business account”, as that’s a scam. Above $$3K, it’s cash (buy a pen to check the bills?), or you both go to a bank and complete the transaction there via cash / cashier’s check. Slavvy posted:Idk how it is in other countries but it's also safe to dismiss any and all inquiries that aren't just 'when can I come and look at the bike' Strongly disagree. Texting one or two specific questions is my way of checking if the seller is worth dealing with. If they “don’t know” or “have to check” and never get back to me, they can go and jump in a fire. I also lost count of how often I found out that they didn’t have a title in hand vi text / email. Would have sucked to drive there first.
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Jul 9, 2023 02:08
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Yeah if I'm thinking about paying someone vehicle money and they don't have crucial information listed I will ask for it before wasting time meeting up somewhere, amazing how low effort and lacking detail some listings will be. I will also ask for a VIN if it's not posted, you can look up the history and make sure there are no liens against it, and as a buyer you'll need that anyway to get a temp plate to ride away unless you're trailering it. As someone who has bought and sold a couple bikes through Craigslist/Offerup (also been lucky with non shady people, probably helps I have mostly dealt with newer bikes), best way I found to handle it once the sale is ready to go, you both meet up at the bank of the person who is paying for it and have them do a cashier's check in person in front of a teller and sign over the title there. Think it depends on the state, but you also want to submit a sold notice right away, in my state you can do that online. Getting the title notarized is also a good idea, but not required.
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Jul 9, 2023 03:05
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RightClickSaveAs posted:Getting the title notarized is also a good idea, but not required. It is in some states, Ohio being one. Dumb as gently caress too, as titles from other states don’t have to be notarized. The requirement serves it purpose though: making private vehicle sales unattractive. If I have to drive to some dipshit two hours away, and I have to coordinate notarization and a finance lien, the price better be a few $K under market. The hassle definitely makes buying from a dealer more attractive.
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Jul 9, 2023 03:35
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morothar posted:Strongly disagree. Texting one or two specific questions is my way of checking if the seller is worth dealing with. If they “don’t know” or “have to check” and never get back to me, they can go and jump in a fire. The actual transfer of money and title is totally painless where I live, provided both parties have the proper phone apps and a valid driver's licence, so those things are also prerequisites for any vehicle business involving myself to take place.
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Jul 9, 2023 08:33
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morothar posted:It is in some states, Ohio being one. Dumb as gently caress too, as titles from other states don’t have to be notarized. Lifehack: Become a notary
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Jul 9, 2023 16:09
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