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TooMuchAbstraction
Oct 14, 2012

I spent four years making
Waves of Steel
Hell yes I'm going to turn my avatar into an ad for it.
Fun Shoe
As I understand it, if you relocate a mouse, it'll generally end up dead to predators anyway. Or it finds its way into another house and becomes someone else's problem.

If it's any consolation, mice are a very successful species. They're in no danger of going extinct.

edit: page snipe

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StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

nwin posted:

I put a water timer on my hose sprinkler today and noticed it’s creating quite the water hammer when it shuts off.

I have water hammer arrestors on my washing machines hot/cold water. Think the same thing would work for my hose bib outside or is there something else I should be doing?

You're gonna get that. It's a mechanical valve that just slams shut immediately. A water hammer arrestor would help, idk where you live so it might be a oita to add. Water hammering is a phenomenon when water at speed stops quickly.

nwin
Feb 25, 2002

make's u think

StormDrain posted:

You're gonna get that. It's a mechanical valve that just slams shut immediately. A water hammer arrestor would help, idk where you live so it might be a oita to add. Water hammering is a phenomenon when water at speed stops quickly.

I was thinking this to run it like:

Hose bib > arrestor > timer > hose > sprinkler

Sioux Chief Mfg 660-H 3/4-Inch Female Swivel Hose Thread by 3/4-Inch Male Hose Thread Mini Rester https://a.co/d/b8jrKy3

Johnny Truant
Jul 22, 2008




BonoMan posted:

So we saw some mouse droppings and figured we had a mouse. Then tonight I hear it LOUDLY rustling around in the kitchen. Just in time to use my phone and see it scurry under the dishwasher.

I flick on the lights and start to load up the mousetrap with peanut butter. I am talking to my wife with all the lights on. I set it on the ground... Continue my conversation and within like 10 seconds it comes right out in front of both of us in broad daylight and takes the bait. Fastest trap to trash ever.

But honestly I just feel bad now. Is there a way to humanely relocate them next time?

Edit as I typed this #2 went off. drat.

Get catch and release traps, I bought a two pack on Amazon, they work real well

Mustache Ride
Sep 11, 2001



nwin posted:

I was thinking this to run it like:

Hose bib > arrestor > timer > hose > sprinkler

Sioux Chief Mfg 660-H 3/4-Inch Female Swivel Hose Thread by 3/4-Inch Male Hose Thread Mini Rester https://a.co/d/b8jrKy3

Be careful of the hose bibs orientation and the stress this and your timer will put on the faucet.

nwin
Feb 25, 2002

make's u think

Mustache Ride posted:

Be careful of the hose bibs orientation and the stress this and your timer will put on the faucet.

So maybe just get rid of the timer and set my phones timer instead? The hammer is loving loud and I don’t want to risk any damage. House is in Connecticut from 1987.

Mustache Ride
Sep 11, 2001



No your setup is fine, you just need to get an arrestor like this one, as the one you linked would end up like this:


You see I had to put an extra hose off the bib to not stress the weight of all the poo poo. An inline one will fix that.

Shifty Pony
Dec 28, 2004

Up ta somethin'


BonoMan posted:

So we saw some mouse droppings and figured we had a mouse. Then tonight I hear it LOUDLY rustling around in the kitchen. Just in time to use my phone and see it scurry under the dishwasher.

I flick on the lights and start to load up the mousetrap with peanut butter. I am talking to my wife with all the lights on. I set it on the ground... Continue my conversation and within like 10 seconds it comes right out in front of both of us in broad daylight and takes the bait. Fastest trap to trash ever.

But honestly I just feel bad now. Is there a way to humanely relocate them next time?

Edit as I typed this #2 went off. drat.

Pest species are generally intensely territorial in the wild, and mice are not an exception. Relocating them is effectively killing them, but instead of a near-instant snap they die over a couple of weeks by territorial fights with established colonies of other rodents, starvation due to being excluded from food sources, and increased vulnerability to predation due to a lack of shelter. All the while they are stressed as hell because they don't know the area and it doesn't smell like their colony.

If you put them outside they will pretty much immediately go right back inside unless you very thoroughly seal up every single possible entry point larger than about 1/2".

So unfortunately the snap trap is the most humane solution.

Benagain
Oct 10, 2007

Can you see that I am serious?
Fun Shoe
If you do a catch and release trap just make sure to get video of the hawk descending from the sky.

slave to my cravings
Mar 1, 2007

Got my mind on doritos and doritos on my mind.
I noticed that four to five boards on my deck were sinking when I stepped on them. Had a chance to go underneath our deck today (it’s about 2.5 feet off the ground) and it looks like there is a 4-5 feet section of the support beam that’s completely rotten. Is there a way to replace this without replacing the entire length of the beam (maybe 20-25 feet)? Can it just be cut back to the cross support beams and replaced (maybe 8-10 feet of replacement board)? I’m not sure if I would do it myself but curious to know what a proper solution is before I call someone out to fix it. Its maybe 15-20 years old and the rest of the deck seems to be in good shape and I don’t feel any other weak spots when walking on the rest of the deck.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

No cutting! But you can sister another joist to it extending a few feet past the next support (not clear form your pic how long that would be) on either side of the rotten area.

Toebone
Jul 1, 2002

Start remembering what you hear.
Previous owner planted a little maple tree under the power service line; it’s grown a couple feet and now the service line runs through the branches. Do I need a tree guy to come trim around the lines, get the tree removed entirely, or just leave it be for now and let it be the next guys problem?

Verman
Jul 4, 2005
Third time is a charm right?
It's not a great spot for the tree but the people who plant them never take that into consideration. Most cities will come by once a year to clean up around utility lines but they're mostly only concerned about the top lines which carry the power. The lower lines are just utilities like cable and telephone, in my experience they don't even touch those or care about them. They are also butchers. They will hack trees to poo poo just to clear space for the lines, often topping trees ruining how they will grow forever (my mutant deodar cedar tree is a good example)

The low lines coming into your house are your problem. You'll want to have space around them cleared. If you're not comfortable with tree work, you should hire a professional. Limbs can weigh a lot more than you think and the last thing you want is to rip out your power main by accident.

devicenull
May 30, 2007

Grimey Drawer
That's definitely professional territory - your service drop is unfused and will kill you if you accidentally hit it with a saw.

You could try calling the power company, but expect them to do a poor job at best.

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006

Yes, I know I'm old, get off my fucking lawn so I can yell at these clouds.

Just take the tree down imo. Sucks but plant something else far enough over that it’s not going to be a problem.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter
Oh no, you just need to shape it right!

distortion park
Apr 25, 2011


Maple can apparently be coppiced so if you can get a pro to do that the first time, you might be able to do future cuts yourself as long as you do it frequently

DaveSauce
Feb 15, 2004

Oh, how awkward.
Finally going to join the Bosch 800 crew on Tuesday.

Here's to hoping I don't find any surprises when I pull the old dishwasher out!

BonoMan
Feb 20, 2002

Jade Ear Joe
I probably should have posted this first... But I kind of rushed into it... I use some Great Stuff foam around the hot water pipe coming out of my hot water heater... Because it was a gap where it went through the wall... Is that okay?

Jenkl
Aug 5, 2008

This post needs at least three times more shit!

BonoMan posted:

I probably should have posted this first... But I kind of rushed into it... I use some Great Stuff foam around the hot water pipe coming out of my hot water heater... Because it was a gap where it went through the wall... Is that okay?

Should be fine, as long as you don't have your heater set to "cook turkey".

BonoMan
Feb 20, 2002

Jade Ear Joe

Jenkl posted:

Should be fine, as long as you don't have your heater set to "cook turkey".

Thanks! Also I just redrywalled the washer hookup area... Without unplugging the washer of drains/water. Just to prove to my wife it could be done.

1/10 do not recommend

a dingus
Mar 22, 2008

Rhetorical questions only
Fun Shoe
Should I add blocking between studs to an interior non-load bearing wall? AFAIK it's not required by code but I don't know if it's generally recommended or it's over-engineering.

Calidus
Oct 31, 2011

Stand back I'm going to try science!

a dingus posted:

Should I add blocking between studs to an interior non-load bearing wall? AFAIK it's not required by code but I don't know if it's generally recommended or it's over-engineering.

You mean like fire blocks?

slave to my cravings
Mar 1, 2007

Got my mind on doritos and doritos on my mind.

Motronic posted:

No cutting! But you can sister another joist to it extending a few feet past the next support (not clear form your pic how long that would be) on either side of the rotten area.

Thanks I’ll look into this more. This actually seems a lot easier than I imagined the fix would be. If I can get an appropriate length board in my car I may try it.

brugroffil
Nov 30, 2015


a dingus posted:

Should I add blocking between studs to an interior non-load bearing wall? AFAIK it's not required by code but I don't know if it's generally recommended or it's over-engineering.

If there's a potential you might want to mount something there, go ahead. Take pictures with dimensions written in the studs of height above finished floor and distance from the nearest corner so you know exactly where it's at.

a dingus
Mar 22, 2008

Rhetorical questions only
Fun Shoe

brugroffil posted:

If there's a potential you might want to mount something there, go ahead. Take pictures with dimensions written in the studs of height above finished floor and distance from the nearest corner so you know exactly where it's at.

That's a good idea. I plan on mounting a tv but at the moment I'm not sure where exactly. Ill probably skip putting blocks between all the studs otherwise.

Calidus posted:

You mean like fire blocks?

Nope I have fireblocking at the top and every 10 feet horizontally on the wall. I mean just blocks between the studs to stiffen everything up. The family member who is helping me out with my project is super conservative and tends to overbuild the crap out of everything, so as my project starts to get into crunch time I'm just trying to identify the bits that I can safely do away with.

Jenkl
Aug 5, 2008

This post needs at least three times more shit!
Blocking a wall for sturdiness isn't standard. Add blocking where you think it will be needed for mounting things.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

Jenkl posted:

Blocking a wall for sturdiness isn't standard. Add blocking where you think it will be needed for mounting things.

This. If you put structural style mid height backing you will make it a nightmare to add wiring later as you can't fish the whole height anymore.

For blocking I like to use 2×2 on the side of the studs and inlay plywood flush to the face of stud. Leaves yourself an opening vertically for power, ethernet, plumbing. And you can make it as tall as you may need, and it's cheap. The pros use 2×8 or similar on edge, which is great if you know where you want it like for cabinets.

Example from my bathroom remodel. You can see the 2×2 on the top of the backing for shower glass.

Kylaer
Aug 4, 2007
I'm SURE walking around in a respirator at all times in an (even more) OPEN BIDENing society is definitely not a recipe for disaster and anyone that's not cool with getting harassed by CHUDs are cave dwellers. I've got good brain!
I replaced the bathroom fan switches with timer-switches and did not burn the house down :toot:

My next project is replacing the dual-bowl undermount kitchen sink with a single-bowl one, it's not a really large sink overall and splitting it into two means I can't put a skillet or saucepot into it. This is going to be my first attempt at anything involving plumbing :imunfunny:

a dingus
Mar 22, 2008

Rhetorical questions only
Fun Shoe

StormDrain posted:

This. If you put structural style mid height backing you will make it a nightmare to add wiring later as you can't fish the whole height anymore.

I didn't think about this but dang that is a great reason to not put blocking. I'm glad I ask questions that I think are probably dumb instead of yoloing it.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

Kylaer posted:

I replaced the bathroom fan switches with timer-switches and did not burn the house down :toot:

My next project is replacing the dual-bowl undermount kitchen sink with a single-bowl one, it's not a really large sink overall and splitting it into two means I can't put a skillet or saucepot into it. This is going to be my first attempt at anything involving plumbing :imunfunny:

Oooh fun. You used the term undermount, which typically goes for a solid surface or granite countertop. So, that might be hard. They can be connected a couple ways, direct adhesive or clips. And the size of the hole matches the sink so perhaps you're lucky and have a single basin that matches, or are OK with it looking funny. The next problem will be if it has a thru counter faucet home and if that is correct and matching.

In short, best of luck and share if you want some advice beyond my wild speculation.

Kylaer
Aug 4, 2007
I'm SURE walking around in a respirator at all times in an (even more) OPEN BIDENing society is definitely not a recipe for disaster and anyone that's not cool with getting harassed by CHUDs are cave dwellers. I've got good brain!
I currently have a dual-bowl attached with clips to the underside of a granite countertop, yes. I matched the size of the new single-bowl sink to the existing sink as closely as I could (current is 31.5", new one is 32"), there's a bit of extra space around the clips so it should fit. It will not line up perfectly with the hole cut in the granite top, the sink will be slightly larger than the opening but whatever, the current one is too. Detaching the existing one, installing the new one and making sure it doesn't fall off is going to be quite an interesting project, as is dealing with the actual drainpipe, that's something I've definitely never dealt with before. We'll see!

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter
You have the right amount of foolhardy optimism to make this work. I'm rooting for you!

In a sincere way too, I talk with my friends and coworkers who are afraid to take on basic home repair and I think it's good to go into a job knowing you don't know but are ready to learn.

totalnewbie
Nov 13, 2005

I was born and raised in China, lived in Japan, and now hold a US passport.

I am wrong in every way, all the damn time.

Ask me about my tattoos.

StormDrain posted:

1. Bayonet.
2. Pics of the fixture will help. You maybe can replace the whole socket relatively cheap with a couple of splices.

Thanks. I had go order the sockets from Amazon because neither Lowe's or Home Depot had them. Or, I couldn't and the store workers couldn't find them.

The fixture itself is basically a cylinder with springs inside to hold the face plate? in place after it's inserted. Well, problem is, the cylinder was recessed in the ceiling and the plaster was preventing it from being pulled down. I scraped off all the rubber cement which was aggravating and used sandpaper to open up the plaster just enough to get the fixture pulled down. However, it now meant that I couldn't push the faceplate on as it would just push the fixture up into the ceiling. I ended up using a few pieces of cardboard, smothering both sides with rubber cement (look what I've become) and shoved them between the fixture and the plaster/beams/whatever is up there. That holds it well enough that I can get the faceplate on. Replaced the socket with a knife and a couple twisty caps.

Go me, I did things.

StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter
OK none of that made any sense to me based on any fixture I've ever dealt with but I'm glad you got it sorted!

I have a light fixture that has long tubular bulbs that I knew the second my wife selected it that the bulbs would be a pain in the rear end. I spent about an hour trying to find a good replacement since two of the four of them have died. My one goal was not to get them from Amazon as I assume they will be inferior and I'll have to replace them again. I was looking for something that would last a long time, 5 years seems reasonable.

It's not a standard size. Considered a T10 or t9 Long. About 7" total. The markings on it told me the color temp and a model number that went nowhere. They were 10 watt LED so who knows how bright. I did find them, in a few places but not anywhere I've shopped at before or really felt jazzed about.

So. I ordered from Amazon. I'll be back to quote this when they die.

Also I hit a huge milestone on my bathroom remodel. Door in, trimmed, floor trimmed, cut the stub for the toilet and sweat on a fitting for the connection, secured all six screws for the toilet flange, mounted the toilet! It's a usable toilet room now! I did a lot of other minor things and have a small completion list and we can be showering by next week I think. End of July at worst.

PainterofCrap
Oct 17, 2002

hey bebe



That makes you


A toilet rascal

Tunicate
May 15, 2012

PainterofCrap posted:

toilet rascal

One of the better Schwarzenegger movies

actionjackson
Jan 12, 2003

you know how some new electronics and appliances have plastic film over them for protection during shipping, that you remove once it's installed? i just realized my bosch dishwasher does

i bought it pre-covid

devmd01
Mar 7, 2006

Elektronik
Supersonik
The POs never removed the film from above the burners on the stove. It’s now permanently embedded.

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Arsenic Lupin
Apr 12, 2012

This particularly rapid💨 unintelligible 😖patter💁 isn't generally heard🧏‍♂️, and if it is🤔, it doesn't matter💁.


actionjackson posted:

you know how some new electronics and appliances have plastic film over them for protection during shipping, that you remove once it's installed? i just realized my bosch dishwasher does

i bought it pre-covid

Yeah, I've never taken it off the bottom level of mine. I like the color.

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