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You don't want to just use felt furniture pads? These look pretty robust: https://www.amazon.com/stores/page/CAD4B9FD-47DE-4120-8160-8A68779A2513?ingress=0&visitId=3d04ec0c-4db0-4be8-9ccd-502c0c1a9cc4 Cornuto fucked around with this message at 20:00 on Jul 2, 2023 |
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Jul 2, 2023 19:57
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Pollyanna posted:I made a coffee table from one of those butcher block slabs and some pipes+flanges. It’s still goin strong, though it’s pretty rough and amateurish work. We just use a bunch of furniture pads stuck to the bottom of the flanges. They don't really fall off, the entire weight of the thing is always pushing them on. Just hit the bottom with some degreaser or soap/water before you put them on, those fittings are often a little oily.
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Jul 2, 2023 20:31
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A little oil will keep away rust but may accumulate dust. If you want a longer-term solution, clean the feet thoroughly with some kind of solvent (alcohol, paint thinner, mineral spirits, whatever you got) and then spray on some clear acrylic topcoat to seal them. One can should be plenty to do all four feet. Obviously do that outside. I agree with felt pads. You could screw round wood feet on but the wood might still mar a softer wood floor or at least scratch its finish. Rubber feet might make the table too hard to scootch around.
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Jul 2, 2023 20:56
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I figured that felt pads wouldn’t stick or would get dropped when the table moves. Would superglue or something do? The flanges have screw holes, which might be useful? I suppose making sure they’re on the feet before the table is set down could work. I can try coating the flanges, too. Thanks!
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Jul 3, 2023 15:06
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Pollyanna posted:I figured that felt pads wouldn’t stick or would get dropped when the table moves. Would superglue or something do? The flanges have screw holes, which might be useful? I suppose making sure they’re on the feet before the table is set down could work. I can try coating the flanges, too. Thanks! You can find sicky felt pads at most hardware stores and big box places.
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Jul 3, 2023 16:00
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Yeah there's peel & stick ones. If you shove your stuff around they can eventually get unstuck but it takes a year or five and you just apply a fresh one as needed.
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Jul 3, 2023 16:40
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Does anyone know if you can buy a jigsaw coping blade for cutting metal? I can only find coping blades for wood
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Jul 3, 2023 17:14
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Worth fixing or not? This is for a powered recliner we have, the cord going into it is cut and everything is sealed on either end. I don't want to just solder and heat shrink it since it's the actual power from the wall, am I just being a baby and that's fine, or is there something better I could use? This is a consignment one that we've taken in so it would be sold and going into a customer's house, that's why I'm kind of hesitant to mess around with it too much
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Jul 3, 2023 17:47
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Opopanax posted:it would be sold and going into a customer's house, that's why I'm kind of hesitant to mess around with it too much This means you need to find correct replacement parts, not perform "repairs" on a mains voltage device.
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Jul 3, 2023 18:02
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Motronic posted:This means you need to find correct replacement parts, not perform "repairs" on a mains voltage device. Yeah that's what I said but figured I'd make sure there wasn't some easy fix I was unaware of
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Jul 3, 2023 18:38
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Deadite posted:Does anyone know if you can buy a jigsaw coping blade for cutting metal? I can only find coping blades for wood You can buy metal cutting jigsaw blades but "coping" is throwing me off, in my mind a coping blade is very thin and you aren't getting a very thin blade held only at one end to successfully saw through metal, it's just gonna flop around. I have blades for my coping and fret saws that can cut metal but they're held in tension at both ends.
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Jul 3, 2023 19:55
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Thanks, that explains why I can't find one then. I use a jigsaw to cut large sheets of acrylic into shapes and the short teeth of metal cutting blades work much better for that than the wood ones, but it's really hard to cut tighter curves with a blade that deep.
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Jul 3, 2023 20:01
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This is about as fine a tooth/thin blade you'll get: Bosch U101AO:https://www.amazon.com/Bosch-U101AO-5-Piece-U-shank-Blades/dp/B000R89YFC 20TPI with a thin profile. Might still be too course for you, and they do make blades specifically for plastic, but those all seem to be wider blades than you want.
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Jul 3, 2023 20:07
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I'm repairing my deck and re-attaching a vinyl rail to the side of my house. The house has new (2 years) vinyl siding, and my father in-law who is helping, indicated that there is some kind of anchor that we would be able to use to secure the rail to the house. I'm picturing something like drywall anchors, but built for siding, but I haven't been able to find anything. Does such a product exist?
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Jul 5, 2023 14:26
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Pollyanna posted:I made a coffee table from one of those butcher block slabs and some pipes+flanges. It’s still goin strong, though it’s pretty rough and amateurish work. You know I have a bunch of leftover vinyl laminate tile from when I did my floors. Cork on one side and vinyl on the other. A circle of it would be perfect for that. You can get (sometimes free) sample pieces of flooring from Lowes/home Depot. Glue it on there real good with some heavy duty construction adhesive - not liquid nails, there's stronger stuff I've used to glue down vinyl tread to concrete steps. Other than that, a thick sheet of rubber or something.
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Jul 5, 2023 15:10
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CzarChasm posted:I'm repairing my deck and re-attaching a vinyl rail to the side of my house. The house has new (2 years) vinyl siding, and my father in-law who is helping, indicated that there is some kind of anchor that we would be able to use to secure the rail to the house. I'm picturing something like drywall anchors, but built for siding, but I haven't been able to find anything. Does such a product exist? You don't want to attach to the siding, it's not structural and won't hold anything up. Ideally you'd want to find the studs in that wall and attach to them with wood screws.
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Jul 5, 2023 16:10
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CzarChasm posted:I'm repairing my deck and re-attaching a vinyl rail to the side of my house. The house has new (2 years) vinyl siding, and my father in-law who is helping, indicated that there is some kind of anchor that we would be able to use to secure the rail to the house. I'm picturing something like drywall anchors, but built for siding, but I haven't been able to find anything. Does such a product exist? Vinyl siding attaches to wood sheathing (typically) which attaches to studs. Find where the studs are and just use exterior coated screws. They should be on 16" centers usually. You can get a vinyl siding remover tool for a couple bucks to help pry the vinyl siding apart from the piece it's mated to, then pull the nails out that hold up the piece of siding. It's not super hard. Once you've removed a piece of siding you can use a stud finder to find where the studs are located. Then do the reverse to reinstall the vinyl siding. Look it up on YouTube. Make sure you reinstall the nails loose so the siding can move horizontally. PVC expands in the sun so you don't want them nailed tightly against the sheathing. That's all there is to vinyl siding. It's very simple. Cosmik Debris fucked around with this message at 19:02 on Jul 5, 2023 |
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Jul 5, 2023 19:00
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I'll try that, but let me ask an adjacent question. The siding is new, but the porch and railing existed in their current configuration before and after the siding was put on. If I recall correctly the railing was attached to the wall previously. That should mean that there's a pretty good chance that the stud should be near where the railing currently is, right? I'm still going to hunt and measure properly, but if I can use that as a starting point, it might make things a little easier.
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Jul 6, 2023 03:52
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Murphys law would indicate that that is a good indicator that there is NOT a stud there.
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Jul 6, 2023 17:42
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e: my question is probably better suited for a general homeowner thread
ex post facho fucked around with this message at 21:57 on Jul 6, 2023 |
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Jul 6, 2023 21:50
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CzarChasm posted:I'll try that, but let me ask an adjacent question. The siding is new, but the porch and railing existed in their current configuration before and after the siding was put on. If I recall correctly the railing was attached to the wall previously. That should mean that there's a pretty good chance that the stud should be near where the railing currently is, right? I'm still going to hunt and measure properly, but if I can use that as a starting point, it might make things a little easier. If you’re gonna take some siding down either use the nails in the sheeting as a marker and/or just use a small drill bit to verify location. Fill any errant holes with caulk before replacing siding
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Jul 6, 2023 22:12
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Soliciting some ideas on how to approach this project. I have an old stone wall that runs one side of our property. It's a bit low for my taste and I want to build up a trellis or a vine wire about a foot above the wall. Handily, the original wall was built with iron pipes running through it that terminate in these pipe caps. There's a cap that pops up about 1" about every 6 feet I could attach something to.  I'm trying to think through the best way to securely mount either a trellis, or a series of posts against those pipe caps. Any ideas or suggestions?
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Jul 10, 2023 01:06
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You could cut holes in the trellis the size of the pipes and then cap them off with a “nut” of some kind. Maybe a collar. You would have to get all this pretty precise or it will wiggle, and then the attachment is only as strong as the clamp of the collar. I’m struggling to think of anything super easy other than just welding the trellis on via an iron plate. Maybe if you could find rivet nuts big enough to fit over the diameter of the pipe? Would be a pain in the butt to then clamp them on to the pipe, but then you would have a big honking thread.
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Jul 10, 2023 01:28
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Is it just iron pipe with a cap screwed on the top? If so, I'd try to just unscrew the cap and use a coupling to add another foot of pipe to attach a trellis to.
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Jul 10, 2023 03:32
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What is the diameter of the pipes? It's kinda hard to tell from the picture. I would think you could try removing the caps and buy some female-female couplers and screw them on, then add more pipe above it. That may be why they're there, honestly. Anyway it's low impact so I'd start there and see how sturdy it is and then reassess.
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Jul 10, 2023 03:58
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Cosmik Debris posted:What is the diameter of the pipes? It's kinda hard to tell from the picture. This was my initial idea, but they seem super seized. You’re right though. I’m gonna hit them with some liquid wrench and a bit more leverage than I initially tried. The pipes are 1” with end caps. The end caps are probably about 1.5-2” in diameter.
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Jul 10, 2023 15:08
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PB blaster + a big rear end pipe wrench + a big rear end cheater bar
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Jul 10, 2023 15:59
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There were a lot of dead ants stuck in the bathroom light of our house and I was told to clean it out. I wasn't there when this light was installed and seeing no screws, I thought I could just loosen the light by going lefty loosy and then this happened. How do I put this light back into the ceiling? What is this light fixture called and how do I clean up all the dead ants located in the lights? TV Zombie fucked around with this message at 20:04 on Jul 12, 2023 |
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Jul 12, 2023 20:02
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Can't tell the actual cause of the issue based on your picture. But I'm going to guess it wasn't installed properly, i.e. no box. It needs to be disconnected, a box installed, and then reinstalled properly if that's the case. I'm going to go right to "you need an electrician".
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Jul 12, 2023 21:16
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At minimum, you should flip the breaker that supplies power to that light, then get on a stepladder and show us what's actually going on inside the ceiling. Or get an electrician, that's the fast/easy/safe/expensive option. Definitely the best option if you aren't interested in learning enough about home wiring to do things properly.
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Jul 12, 2023 21:38
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yeah we'll need more than a 240x320 image to go on
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Jul 13, 2023 00:14
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Probably implied by "our house", but do you own it? I am very excited to see what's (not) up there
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Jul 13, 2023 00:42
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My mother got an electric clothes dryer, and the installers capped her old gas line off with tape. What is the correct product to use to cap this off? Should we remove the flex hose and cap the copper pipe it connects to, or just cap the flex hose? There is a quarter turn valve that is blocking off the flow of gas further up the line.
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Jul 13, 2023 19:25
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So, we're in the middle of replacing the flooring in our new 1950s house, the old crap is all tore up, and we're about to start prepping the slab for some self leveling underlayment. Our finishing layer is going to be glued down engineered hardwood in most of the house, and LVP with in the kitchen and bathroom. My question is how should we do the pours with the SLC? The basic layout of the house is a square divided into 4 squares with a narrow bathroom between the kitchen and a bedroom, with a hallway in the middle connecting everything. I don't know just how far off level the whole floor plan is, but within each room there's easily .5 to 1 inch of difference in the floor from high to low. My plan after we're done removing the old mastic was to use a laser level and a stick to mark out high and low spots, grind down the high spots, and use enough SLC to cover everything. Then do pours for each of the bedrooms, bathroom, and kitchen, then do the livingroom and hallway together. Doing the whole house at once sounds pretty hard for 2 people. Hopefully the differences would be small enough that transition molding between rooms would be enough for the finished product to smooth.
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Jul 13, 2023 20:11
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:My mother got an electric clothes dryer, and the installers capped her old gas line off with tape. What is the correct product to use to cap this off? Should we remove the flex hose and cap the copper pipe it connects to, or just cap the flex hose? Not a pro. Cap it at the copper. If it's a short run of copper to back iron you could even cap it there. In my case I had a gas line moved and it was capped by a pro using brass flared fitting cap, before we uncapped and added the to-flex fitting ourselves later. Basically sounds like the reverse of you. My understanding (not a pro) is the flared end is common/standard for copper + natural gas. I'm guessing when you remove the copper to flex fitting you'll find a flared end, and you can just gently wrench a flared cap on, no Teflon tape. If it's black iron get the correct tape (rated for gas not water) and a screw on cap and double wrench 'er. Not a pro
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Jul 13, 2023 23:52
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jetz0r posted:So, we're in the middle of replacing the flooring in our new 1950s house, the old crap is all tore up, and we're about to start prepping the slab for some self leveling underlayment. Our finishing layer is going to be glued down engineered hardwood in most of the house, and LVP with in the kitchen and bathroom. You'll probably want to pour it in smaller pieces. That stuff doesn't self level as much as youd hope, you'll want the right tools and be ready to work it into place. So you'll want to pour in chunks that two can manage, accounting for never having done it before, as you'll need to keep a wet edge as you work, or wait for it to dry. I'd also make sure you appreciate how much material it will take, and what that means for mixing. Youll want to have a system planned. The more you tackle at once that worse it will be. Or maybe that's why you brought up grinding? Grinding concrete indoors is it's own kind of hell. I've been there. I'd check level and run some numbers and see if just using compound can't do the job. Where the transition strips go is a natural place to break. Also, you're gluing wood to concrete? Is that... Uhh... Recommended?
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Jul 14, 2023 00:04
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Jenkl posted:Also, you're gluing wood to concrete? Is that... Uhh... Recommended? https://www.thistothat.com
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Jul 14, 2023 00:17
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Jenkl posted:Not a pro. Thanks, I appreciate your thoughts and disclaimers. At least now I have some terms to search, if nothing else.
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Jul 14, 2023 00:29
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Jenkl posted:Also, you're gluing wood to concrete? Is that... Uhh... Recommended? The old way to put a wood floor over a slab was either to put a layer of plywood over the slab or put down sleepers over the slab and plywood on top of that and nail the hardwood to the plywood. Nobody does that anymore because it's expensive, but it does make for way more comfortable floors than 1/2" of wood glued to concrete.
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Jul 14, 2023 00:38
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My house has parquet floors directly on the slab. Well, I assume there's a moisture barrier in between, but if so it's not thick. And yeah, it's noticeable how hard the floor is.
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Jul 14, 2023 00:47
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