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EvilJoven posted:Not if it was at just the right point to snag and cause the pad to basically bounce along the rotor, it could very possibly be that, and only triggered when the frame flexes a certain way. It's worth spending the few minutes and no cost to check. My Sram rear brake squealed at low speeds. Swapped pads w the front, problem solved. Cleaning rotors and pads did not. FWIW
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Jun 27, 2023 17:04
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EvilJoven posted:Not if it was at just the right point to snag and cause the pad to basically bounce along the rotor, it could very possibly be that, and only triggered when the frame flexes a certain way. It's worth spending the few minutes and no cost to check. Dude. No.
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Jun 27, 2023 18:02
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I have a new set of pads on the way. I actually have two rotors I can switch between, so I'm going to check for burrs might as well, wipe it down with acetone, and then install and bed the new pads and see what I get.
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Jun 27, 2023 19:32
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New pads fixed it. I don't know if I glazed the pads in the stand during adjustment by stopping the wheel before bed-in or if it was a defective part from the factory or what, but the new ones work perfectly. Also thank for the tip on bending the spring outwards to give them more force. I noticed that the springs that came with the new pads are way stronger, so I did this to the back pads and that 90% cured the occasional flex-based rubbing I was having.
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Jul 2, 2023 19:41
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Looks like I'm biting the bullet and finally going tubeless. If my rims are marked as 622x21mm tubeless compatible, what width tape do I need? Is there any particular kind to look for or are they all much of a muchness? Also might be  but what's a good brand of sealer?
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Jul 6, 2023 08:08
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Slavvy posted:Looks like I'm biting the bullet and finally going tubeless. 25mm tape will be perfect. Orange Seal.
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Jul 6, 2023 09:19
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Slavvy posted:Looks like I'm biting the bullet and finally going tubeless. 25mm tape approx. Orange seal.
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Jul 6, 2023 09:20
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Orange seal it is!
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Jul 6, 2023 09:46
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Let me know if you find a shop to buy it from in NZ, you'll probably have to order it internationally
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Jul 6, 2023 09:57
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I was always going to do that lol somehow I think torpedo 7 will survive without my business
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Jul 6, 2023 10:19
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I had a tubeless valve that was filled with orange seal and was very hard to inflate and tried to clean it without much luck. What's the best way to clean them? Is there a chemical solution because a tiny pick wasn't getting it out. I ended up swapping with a spare in the mean time. My digital inflator was going over 100psi when trying to air up that tire.
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Jul 6, 2023 11:39
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Suburban Dad posted:I had a tubeless valve that was filled with orange seal and was very hard to inflate and tried to clean it without much luck. What's the best way to clean them? Is there a chemical solution because a tiny pick wasn't getting it out. I ended up swapping with a spare in the mean time. My digital inflator was going over 100psi when trying to air up that tire. Back when I used regular Presta valves, I’d just remove the core and shove a Q-Tip through to clear the bore. If you have a clogged valve core, just chuck it and replace it. I use Fillmore valves now and won’t be going back to Presta.
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Jul 6, 2023 11:55
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lol I have too many bikes to consider $50 tubeless valves, let me know when the knockoffs hit aliexpress
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Jul 6, 2023 13:14
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Clark Nova posted:lol I have too many bikes to consider $50 tubeless valves, let me know when the knockoffs hit aliexpress I think 76 Project (or something like that) already sells em. They are much cheaper with them
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Jul 6, 2023 14:54
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I've got some Filmore valves and I'm a big fan. I think the knockoffs can't run thread-on air chucks. I do agree they're crazy expensive for valves... If I wasn't running tire inserts, I probably wouldn't have em.
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Jul 6, 2023 22:36
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Can you adjust the brake lever on a hydraulic brake system? My rear brake (avid juicy) lever has been getting loose and now there is about two inches of nothing before it engages the brakes. And how often should you bleed a hydraulic system?
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Jul 10, 2023 21:42
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EvilJoven posted:Not if it was at just the right point to snag and cause the pad to basically bounce along the rotor, it could very possibly be that, and only triggered when the frame flexes a certain way. It's worth spending the few minutes and no cost to check. Is there a thread favorite bleeding kit? I'm looking at doing it for the first time in a few weeks and this looks like a PITA.
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Jul 10, 2023 22:31
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Nothing on this earth triggers vicious self loathing like bar tape How is it that I did this  which I'm very happy with, but then immediately followed it up with this  which despite my fixation on symmetry came out completely asymmetrical and I somehow didn't notice it? Also you need four hands to do it - ones for tension, one to hold the roll, one to peel off the backing stuff, one to pass the roll over/under the bars. This is like my twelfth time doing this and it's still totally hit and miss whether or not it comes out like poo poo arrrrrrggh  Picture for posterity because it will never be this level of matching white again (because I haven't ridden it yet): 
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Jul 11, 2023 00:42
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Doing your own bar tape and making it as ugly as you want is the proper way. Like a 5 year old's portrait of their parents, its perfect because you tried.
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Jul 11, 2023 00:52
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Realizing that internalizing a love of lovely bar tape might be easier than just doing a good job
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Jul 11, 2023 00:56
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Just rip that entire glue strip paper off at the start. I'm not convinced the glue does anything anyway so who cares if it gets little dirty. And as long as there's no bar showing you're fine. I've got leather bar tape on like three of my bikes at this point and it offers zero cushion but is so much better aesthetics for steel or older bikes and you can always pull it off and just reapply to a new set of bars
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Jul 11, 2023 01:11
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The best bar tape I've ever wrapped was the cheap basic black stuff that came on my bikesdirect minivelo. No adhesive meant I was able to re-wrap it several times when I changed out the levers and bars over the course of a year and it always went back on just fine and never got loose. I'm pretty sure the adhesive is just a scam to sell more tape
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Jul 11, 2023 01:28
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Yeah just buy the cheapest poo poo that's the right color and wear some gloves if you need a little cushion. Your hands shouldn't be getting beat up with proper position
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Jul 11, 2023 02:01
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Little extra on nicer tape is worth it- I'll never use the cheap eva foam stuff from deda, easton, msw etc again. Zipp service course cx is really good. I like the silca piloti but that's a little pricey. Or lizard skins, which comes in various thicknesses.
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Jul 11, 2023 03:08
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My problem with the lizard skin is when it gets wet from sweat or otherwise my friend borrowing a bike just twists that poo poo off the bars and fucks it up.
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Jul 11, 2023 03:42
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Llyr posted:Can you adjust the brake lever on a hydraulic brake system? My rear brake (avid juicy) lever has been getting loose and now there is about two inches of nothing before it engages the brakes. And how often should you bleed a hydraulic system? Some of the levers have reach adjust but that sounds like it needs a bleed and I'd check the pads for wear as well. Two inches of nothing sounds like the territory where I would be worried about there being a leak in the system which would mean replacing the brake. Normally you bleed them when they start to feel empty or spongy. You can usually check against the other brake, they should feel about the same. If the lever hits the bar you definitely have to fix it.
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Jul 11, 2023 06:57
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Silicone backed bar tape of whatever sort is well worth the extra. No gunk left on your bars, you can re-wrap as many times as it takes until you’re happy, and if you do things like move brifter angle, you can just re-wrap the same tape. BBB Flexribbon is my go to, just wish they had more colours.
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Jul 11, 2023 14:58
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Has anyone tried the Alexrims products before? My wife's bike came with an extra front wheel built with a basic x404 630x20 aluminum rim from them that seems? Relatively decent but I don't know how long it's going to last. I ended up using it as my front wheel as it's certainly better than the rusted and pitted steel wheel my bike came with. I guess my bigger question in general is, what's the best value/deal in wheelset components these days, for something tough and reliable but not necessarily aero/ultralight/etc? We're going to ride this season out on our 27x1-3/8's, but over winter I'd like to get us into 650B's with bigger tires, for comfort just as much for better off road handling. Am I better off just watching local buy and sells/eBay and buying 2 wheelsets as deals come up, and then working on the bearings and trueing them up? Or can I get a lot of bang for my buck by mixing some components and building them from scratch? My wife enjoyed the process of trueing and slightly adjusting the dish on our wheelsets when we fixed up our vintage resto bikes recently, so the labour part of it isn't much of a factor.
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Jul 11, 2023 17:07
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Rim brake 650b is tough. There's only a handful of rims available in the world and even fewer ready wheelsets available. Alexrims make most of those rims at all price points fwiw. Going from 630 to 584 is probably also gonna mean brazing some cantiposts to the frame and fork since you'd be lowering the brake pads 23mm. In short I wouldn't bother unless the frames are super nice and even still I would think about it hard.
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Jul 11, 2023 17:58
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Havana Affair posted:Rim brake 650b is tough. There's only a handful of rims available in the world and even fewer ready wheelsets available. Alexrims make most of those rims at all price points fwiw. Going from 630 to 584 is probably also gonna mean brazing some cantiposts to the frame and fork since you'd be lowering the brake pads 23mm. In short I wouldn't bother unless the frames are super nice and even still I would think about it hard. Oh, that's a really good point that I didn't consider. 700C probably makes much more sense on that front for these frames, given that long reach calipers will make that distance without much fuss, and still will be an improvement in tire selection and rubber between the rim and the ground. I'm not necessarily put off by the idea of doing some braze-ons myself, but the juice probably isn't worth the squeeze. Thanks 
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Jul 11, 2023 18:33
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Mederlock posted:Oh, that's a really good point that I didn't consider. 700C probably makes much more sense on that front for these frames, given that long reach calipers will make that distance without much fuss, and still will be an improvement in tire selection and rubber between the rim and the ground. Yeah, gaining 4mm of tire size will be pretty good. 23 to 28mm, 28 to 32. Woom issued a recall on its custom 1-bolt stems on its kids bikes. In short, I think people were paying attention to how loose the 1-bolt was, and handlebars were twisting or maybe even coming off. At a decent hit to their margin, their recall response was to ship out detailed setup instructions along with a torque wrench:  1) this is the kind of customer support I expect from a real bike company, but especially so from one that specializes in kids' bikes 2) i recall TobinHatesYou saying somewhere that carbon paste wasn't the right choice for adding friction to metal interfaces? In any case, I'm confident that I can set the torque on my kid's Woom 2 to "about twice as tight as 5 Nm" and keep it there, so free beam style 0-10Nm torque wrench. kimbo305 fucked around with this message at 21:40 on Jul 11, 2023 |
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Jul 11, 2023 21:35
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kimbo305 posted:Yeah, gaining 4mm of tire size will be pretty good. 23 to 28mm, 28 to 32. Cool, the 1-3/8 we have is essentially 35mm, so with the excess clearance we have and what we gain from going 700C, we could go to 40's with a little space for mud. That'll be perfect.
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Jul 11, 2023 22:18
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kimbo305 posted:Yeah, gaining 4mm of tire size will be pretty good. 23 to 28mm, 28 to 32. 10Nm on a stem bolt seems like a lot but I guess I’ve never dealt with a 1 bolt design.
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Jul 11, 2023 22:38
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wooger posted:Silicone backed bar tape of whatever sort is well worth the extra. No gunk left on your bars, you can re-wrap as many times as it takes until you’re happy, and if you do things like move brifter angle, you can just re-wrap the same tape. Llyr posted:Can you adjust the brake lever on a hydraulic brake system? My rear brake (avid juicy) lever has been getting loose and now there is about two inches of nothing before it engages the brakes. And how often should you bleed a hydraulic system? Also good/pricey brakes can be adjusted every which way; on the entry level stuff you adjust your expectations instead. evil_bunnY fucked around with this message at 01:48 on Jul 12, 2023 |
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Jul 12, 2023 01:45
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I'm finding I really, really dislike living with my cable operated disc brakes, mainly because they have a crap design where one side moves and the other is totally fixed, so every time you brake you're bending the disc to the right slightly. I have to twiddle the adjusters every time I take a wheel out and disc warping is chronic, a problem I've never encountered on my hydraulic equipped MTB's which put up with far worse than my gravel bike. The engineering of them in general disgusts me. I am aware the right thing to do is to just get the hydraulic version of my shifters (sram apex) but that costs about a million dollars. Is it worth exploring cable operated hydraulic calipers? Or even cable operated calipers that move both pads simultaneously?
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Jul 12, 2023 05:44
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I have TRP Spyres on my commuter/touring bike which move both pads and they're fine. Braking performance & modulation still is nowhere near as good as hydros even with fancy cable housing, but they're the best mechanical brakes I've ever had by a long, long way.
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Jul 12, 2023 07:57
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Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:10Nm on a stem bolt seems like a lot but I guess I’ve never dealt with a 1 bolt design. Most stems use a 5mm fastener, which usually means around 5nm torque, it looks like this is a 6mm fastener and 10nm is OK.
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Jul 12, 2023 08:58
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jammyozzy posted:I have TRP Spyres on my commuter/touring bike which move both pads and they're fine. Braking performance & modulation still is nowhere near as good as hydros even with fancy cable housing, but they're the best mechanical brakes I've ever had by a long, long way. Yeah, these are good though they can have clearance issues (bangs into the spokes on my shutter precision dynamo wheel). I actually like the Shimano CX77 a bit more, especially after I put the fancy sintered pads on them. I've never tried the HY/RD but people who have them seem to like them. They apparently need fairly frequent pad adjustment, though this is true of every mechanical disc brake e: I believe on the HY/RD it's actually taking in cable slack, not moving the pads, but it's basically the same deal
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Jul 12, 2023 15:47
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Clark Nova posted:I've never tried the HY/RD but people who have them seem to like them. They apparently need fairly frequent pad adjustment, though this is true of every mechanical disc brake My commuter bike came with HY/RD and they were fine until the front one broke. My LBS said it was a common problem and TRP refuse to sell the small, cheap part they'd need to fix it so they replaced it with a Spyre and I honestly couldn't tell the difference. Switching the whole lot out recently for GRX hydraulics was night and day better.
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Jul 12, 2023 16:03
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Yeah hydraulic is unquestionably better but integrated levers probably make it the most expensive upgrade you can do to your bike, short of some really nice wheels
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Jul 12, 2023 16:16
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