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To tag on to the above. Maybe I just leave the air intake alone. Buy some long rear end plyers and try to get that squeeze-clamp off? Are clamp-plyers a thing?
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Jul 7, 2023 16:54
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Hose clamp pliers are a thing. It doesn't look like you'd need a pair for that clamp though. A decent sized set of pliers should be able to get in there and squeeze the clamp loose so you can move it up the hose past the fitting and then remove the hose. Maybe the missing piece is that the video you linked doesn't show removing hose clamp. This one does. Just get a pair of pliers down there and squeeze it, move it up the hose, and then it should come off. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=boAUbHxULvg
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Jul 7, 2023 17:13
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skipdogg posted:Hose clamp pliers are a thing. It doesn't look like you'd need a pair for that clamp though. A decent sized set of pliers should be able to get in there and squeeze the clamp loose so you can move it up the hose past the fitting and then remove the hose. Maybe the missing piece is that the video you linked doesn't show removing hose clamp. That's great, thank you. In the picture I posted, at the bottom you can just see a piece of the air intake box. The box is preventing my hands, and one set of general purpose pliers, from getting a good grip on the hose clamp. I did find this video which shows how to remove the air intake box. Looks a lot easier than I anticipated, hopefully I won't have issues with that sensor clip. I think my plan of attack will be: - Uber to Harbor Freight and buy some better pliers and much needed tools - Leave air intake hose alone. Remove air box assembly instead to free up room in the front. - Hope I can remove the throttle body hose without too much fuss. I'm guessing it'll be seized/stuck on there after 12 years of use.
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Jul 7, 2023 17:21
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They do sell long reach pliers, and if you don't have room to spread the handle wide they sell "dual pivot" long reach pliers to keep it narrow all the way down. https://www.amazon.com/Crescent-Straight-Bent-Material-Plier/dp/B095TKZQP8/ Also that spring clamp style is kind of neat, it has a tiny little locking tab on it so for installation, you lock it open and install the hose, then once the hose and clamp are in place you just kind of twist it a little and it snaps shut. Might take some practice and it might fight you to stay open, you don't have to use the lock but I like it. Bah, the video explains it. Too slow.
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Jul 7, 2023 17:22
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Safety Dance posted:If I had to guess, OP's tire blew out and took part of the fender liner with it. I don't see oil or any fluids on the ground, it should be a pretty straightforward fix. If you bought all your tires at the same time, you probably want to replace them all. The way that tire failed is pretty grody. The fender liner might be savable, or you might need a new one, but it's just molded plastic. The fender liner has blown of my yaris twice when doing 100kph, problem is the plastic retainers just die with age. I ran over both but one survived enough I put it back on.
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Jul 7, 2023 17:57
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Ok I've made progress. I was able to remove the air intake assembly. Then I was able to get the air intake hose remove to give me a lot more room. I moved the clamp up and off the underlying point. Now I have a stuck hose (that has coolant running through it). Seems to be a common issue with these. Any advice on how to get a 12-year old coolant hose off it's connector? The hose is getting trashed so I'm not worried about damaging it. I'm keeping the clamp. 
Hughmoris fucked around with this message at 18:44 on Jul 7, 2023 |
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Jul 7, 2023 18:41
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You can use a razor or sharp knife to cut the hose lengthwise by the connector which should let it expand and let go. They make picks that get in between as well (not really worth buying a tool you'll never use again), or just a lot of twisting and moving back and forth should get it to release. Since don't need to save the hose I would attack it, and be careful not to damage the housing or whatever it connects to.
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Jul 7, 2023 18:48
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yeah start with twisting (you can grab the hose with pliers, above the barb, and get some leverage on it), and then try sticking things in the end if you can (curved picks? small screwdrivers?), and then if none of that works, you can cut it off.
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Jul 7, 2023 20:58
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Thanks for the help, everyone. I was able to get the hose off and everything dissembled. My successes were all for naught. I hit the snag when I went to connect the new hose. When I took the old one off, were it connects to the housing on the other side of the engine, I believe the coolant caused corrosion at the leak and a piece of the connector seemingly fused to the housing. Long story short, the new hose won't fit due to the housing connection being busted. At this point I need a new housing too. So, I'll be having it towed to the dealership tomorrow and let them do the work. Been a long day but I do appreciate the help!
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Jul 7, 2023 21:07
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PainterofCrap posted:Because I could fix it for the cost of the parts. Done two since May. Oh. Well poo poo, I work in Cheektowaga, right near the airport. Uh, I guess if you want, feel free to DM me? Totally up to you on that. Also, just pointing this out, but don't feel like you're obligated to do or not do anything on my account. Not having AC sucks when it gets to be like 90 for both the temperature and the humidity, but I've been toughing it out for years now, and I can keep toughing it out.
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Jul 8, 2023 00:27
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neogeo0823 posted:Oh. Well poo poo, I work in Cheektowaga, right near the airport. Uh, I guess if you want, feel free to DM me? Totally up to you on that. Also, just pointing this out, but don't feel like you're obligated to do or not do anything on my account. Not having AC sucks when it gets to be like 90 for both the temperature and the humidity, but I've been toughing it out for years now, and I can keep toughing it out. goon trip goon trip goon trip goon trip goons touching goons yes yes yes yes sounds like you might have to take a drive to PA, my guy post pics
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Jul 8, 2023 00:32
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NitroSpazzz posted:It's your car, do what you want and ignore anyone that says otherwise (for the most part). Prep of the surface before applying the wrap is just as, if not more, important than putting down the wrap. Ideally you do a full detail with clay bar on the area right before wrapping to give it a clean surface to adhere to. Don't but the cheap vinyl, buy more than you need, and take your time. Right, so to that end does anyone have recommendations on where to buy good quality vinyl material, tools, knifeless tape, etc? Things like squeegees and knives seem to be pretty easy to comeby from Amazon, but more specialty tools like knifeless tape, I'm not sure about. I gather the 3m 2080 series is just a "better" version of the 1080 material. I've also read that some of the other wrap brands will not sell their products to individuals. So with that said if there is a recommended distributor or other manufacturer to consider, I'd appreciate any suggestions.
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Jul 8, 2023 01:34
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I am replacing the outer CV boots after replacing my outer tie rods but need to buy boot band pliers. Do I need to buy "earless" clamps or ear-type clamps?
melon cat fucked around with this message at 02:39 on Feb 21, 2024 |
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Jul 8, 2023 02:35
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MetaJew posted:Right, so to that end does anyone have recommendations on where to buy good quality vinyl material, tools, knifeless tape, etc? Things like squeegees and knives seem to be pretty easy to comeby from Amazon, but more specialty tools like knifeless tape, I'm not sure about. lol no offense but IDK that you're gonna DIY a vinyl wrap on your hardtop convertible and make it look remotely decent the guy you posted only did the rails with tape, you're talking about doing the whole roof assembly
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Jul 8, 2023 02:37
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Only one way to find out
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Jul 8, 2023 03:13
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Worst case, the second attempt will probably be a lot easier 
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Jul 8, 2023 04:05
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Ok Comboomer posted:lol no offense but IDK that you're gonna DIY a vinyl wrap on your hardtop convertible and make it look remotely decent Thanks for the constructive input, user Ok Comboomer.
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Jul 8, 2023 06:40
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Driving in the mountains today, it was dark, came around the corner and what do you know, big fuckoff rock in the middle of the road. Nothing to do but go over it. Chewed up the plastic underbody cover, hit the transmission pan, dented/deformed the aft inboard edge. No leak at the time, no leak an hour and a half later when we got home. Vehicle is a 2018 Passat tsi. If it doesn't start leaking, I'm inclined to leave it as is, maybe put some surface protection on the bare metal.    [img]https://i.imgur.com/GVRPorn.jpeg[/img Opinions? ]
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Jul 8, 2023 08:21
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MetaJew posted:Thanks for the constructive input, user Ok Comboomer. are you planning on wrapping each of the buttresses separately and doing a panel for the roof?
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Jul 8, 2023 11:39
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MetaJew posted:Right, so to that end does anyone have recommendations on where to buy good quality vinyl material, tools, knifeless tape, etc? Things like squeegees and knives seem to be pretty easy to comeby from Amazon, but more specialty tools like knifeless tape, I'm not sure about. I've seen a few people recommend https://metrorestyling.com/ and go with 3m or avery. NitroSpazzz fucked around with this message at 12:09 on Jul 8, 2023 |
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Jul 8, 2023 11:54
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Ok Comboomer posted:is there a way to check water damage on the floor pan without literally pulling out the interior and pulling up the rug? if you were anywhere near me, I'd lend you mine. In a pinch, you could pin a piece of paper towel to the carpet, under something small & heavy, check it in an hour.
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Jul 8, 2023 14:51
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Ok Comboomer posted:are you planning on wrapping each of the buttresses separately and doing a panel for the roof? Yes, the body panels/seams are such that each buttress will be a separate piece of vinyl, there is then a panel that spans the two. So, the windshield trim is made up of 3 pieces, the roof has two panels , the roof "hoop" is a separate panel, and then the two buttresses are the most complex pieces. I'm sure I'll waste material and the buttresses will not be the greatest, but the rest of the roof structure shapes are simple enough that I would think I can at least achieve a 10-20ft level of quality. And if I hate it, it can be peeled off.  
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Jul 8, 2023 22:04
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lol are the quarter windows fake on those? i never noticed
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Jul 8, 2023 22:25
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Raluek posted:lol are the quarter windows fake on those? i never noticed Wouldn't be a Miata if you can see out of it with the top up
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Jul 8, 2023 22:35
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Finger Prince posted:Driving in the mountains today, it was dark, came around the corner and what do you know, big fuckoff rock in the middle of the road. Nothing to do but go over it. Chewed up the plastic underbody cover, hit the transmission pan, dented/deformed the aft inboard edge. No leak at the time, no leak an hour and a half later when we got home. I don't know the correct answer but I'd be inclined to smear some hondabond or RTV over the worst spots where it looks like it might leak through. Nonzero chance it starts weeping through some pinholes in a little while. And then in a month or three if you've got a leak, look at doing a better patch job or replace the cover. Keep an eye on your fluids Hadlock fucked around with this message at 22:50 on Jul 8, 2023 |
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Jul 8, 2023 22:48
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Raluek posted:lol are the quarter windows fake on those? i never noticed tactlessbastard posted:Wouldn't be a Miata if you can see out of it with the top up What he said. There's a guy on Miata.net that sells carbon fiber "window" panels, and that trim panel that spans the two buttresses. A window would be preferable.
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Jul 8, 2023 22:53
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Car electric question, got a luggage compartment light that stopped working. I hooked the light up to my own power source and it turns on fine. When I measure across the terminals it shows about 10 volts, but when I connect the light I get nothing, now it was a while since I checked but I believe the voltage went away when I checked with the light in place. So it's like putting a load on the circuit dropped the voltage to nothing. Possibly just a loose wire, bad ground, spitballing here.
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Jul 9, 2023 15:05
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Any recommendations for the best adhesive to reattach this door seal (UK based). I found a recommendation to use Gorilla glue but it didn't seem to hold the seal to the door. Though the instructions for the glue said to clamp the object in place for 24 hours. I couldn't figure out how to hold it other than by hand so that might be why it didn't work because I held it in place for a minute before giving up on it working. Would something as simple as double sided sticky tape do the job? 
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Jul 9, 2023 17:53
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Kin posted:Would something as simple as double sided sticky tape do the job? Yes. This stuff is what you're looking for. Shop around for the right width and length you want, make sure it says automotive, not sure if it's all the same but the automotive stuff and exterior in particular is virtually invincible. Just prep with alcohol and stick away. https://www.amazon.com/3M-38582-Exterior-Attachment-Tape/dp/B00JR4D70K/ref=asc_df_B00JR4D70K/ And I did just attach a piece of rubber on my buddy's honda in the exact same spot. It tore the plastic clips that hold it on normally.
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Jul 9, 2023 18:12
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Kin posted:Any recommendations for the best adhesive to reattach this door seal (UK based). Use masking tape to hold the seal in place while the glue dries?
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Jul 9, 2023 18:23
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His Divine Shadow posted:Car electric question, got a luggage compartment light that stopped working. I hooked the light up to my own power source and it turns on fine. When I measure across the terminals it shows about 10 volts, but when I connect the light I get nothing, now it was a while since I checked but I believe the voltage went away when I checked with the light in place. So it's like putting a load on the circuit dropped the voltage to nothing. Possibly just a loose wire, bad ground, spitballing here. The load a digital multimeter puts on a circuit to test voltage is incredibly small compared to the load of a light, and if it was 10V when tested open-circuit while system voltage is at 12-14V, you have a connection somewhere that is barely allowing any current through. You can rule out whether its a power-side or a ground-side problem by providing a known-good 12V or a known-good ground - i.e. if you give it a known-good 12V and it lights up while still using the typical ground conductor, the problem is on the power side. From there I'd pull a diagram and trace back either hot or ground and see if there are any connectors upstream where you can split the circuit and load test it.
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Jul 10, 2023 00:20
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Before I make a terrible mistake, buying used wheels with cosmetic curb rash is ok right? They are the OEM alloys for my new car so I know they will fit at least
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Jul 10, 2023 02:46
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Bilirubin posted:Before I make a terrible mistake, buying used wheels with cosmetic curb rash is ok right? They are the OEM alloys for my new car so I know they will fit at least Depends on price IMHO. If the price you are paying in your area is market price for wheels that are not structurally damaged, I would need them signed off by a balancing shop before I would purchase them without a return policy. Probably. Wheel shops can usually run a deal of $50-75 per wheel for quantity of 4 to fix rash with an experienced body man and grinder / paint match. In my area I think. You could run it into the deal. Source: 95% sure my Audi OEM wheels have an invisible bend that only shows on a balancing machine. It’s not a great situation and I think they’re powder coated very close to OEM color to fix previous rash so I’d need to buy more wheels or paint lol. Think I can just barely feel it at highway speeds unfortunately but I’ll live with it for now. Inner Light fucked around with this message at 03:02 on Jul 10, 2023 |
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Jul 10, 2023 02:53
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Inner Light posted:Depends on price IMHO. If the price you are paying in your area is market price for wheels that are not structurally damaged, I would need them signed off by a balancing shop before I would purchase them without a return policy. Probably. Wheel shops can usually run a deal of $50-75 per wheel for quantity of 4 to fix rash with an experienced body man and grinder / paint match. In my area I think. You could run it into the deal. Yeah this is what I'm debating. Guy listed them last week for 400 CDN for the four, but they are pretty scratched up. He's been dropping the price this week on the listing so I contacted them asking if he had slow leaks. He answered no of course but with a plausible reason of his planning to use these rims for winters but then got a good deal on 16 inch wheels and snows so now they are extras to clear out (17"). It's commonly done on this car, mine came with 16" winters on them and is like to run slightly oversized for my summers. And then offered them for 300 so he's motivated you sell. I don't want to buy someone else's problems but it's a nice price.
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Jul 10, 2023 03:07
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Well and also the OEMs are pretty heavy so I'd probably get better milage with just about any aftermarket. Just feeling cash poor after buying the car
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Jul 10, 2023 03:12
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You're not going to get better mileage with lighter wheels, just get the OEM wheels if they are the right price. Make him an offer.
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Jul 10, 2023 03:46
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I have a 2012 Ford Transit for business use. Because I only drive it 15 miles a day in a huge city, I've had repeated problems with the DPF getting blocked (no surprise). The last time I took it to my mechanic, he informed me the problem in fact stems from the injectors which need replacing. Because I know almost nothing about vehicle maintenance, I have a couple of questions. Are injectors likely to be the root cause of this issue? Do I actually need the injectors replaced or just the seals? I have found a highly rated German ebay shop that sells stamped and inspected refurbished injectors, am I wasting money if I buy those instead of brand new ones? This is a vehicle that I'll replace as soon as finances allow, because my local government levies a substantial daily charge for anything older than Euro 6, so I'm not keen to spend a fortune on it.
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Jul 10, 2023 10:42
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I would not bother putting new injectors (vs reman) on a 11 year old vehicle.
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Jul 10, 2023 14:35
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if you are trying to do it on the cheap, you could try to test/clean yourself. Here is one dudes way on YouTube https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J1LWXf_QEAU
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Jul 10, 2023 17:20
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Applebees Appetizer posted:You're not going to get better mileage with lighter wheels, just get the OEM wheels if they are the right price. Make him an offer. Checking their FB profile and it has every hallmark of being a scam account, plus they are shying from me coming out to see the wheels--want to send high def photos instead. Will settle for aftermarkets from a dealer for higher price and the need to figure out the calculus of wheel/tire sizes https://www.wheel-size.com/calc/?wheel1=215-55-17X7.5ET55&wheel2=225-55-17X7.5ET40&fcl=50mm&wcl=30mm&scl=50mm&sr=0mm
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Jul 10, 2023 17:27
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