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Any ESP32 dev board on Aliexpress or Amazon or whatever will be Fine, they're all basically the same
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Jul 5, 2023 02:56
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ante posted:Any ESP32 dev board on Aliexpress or Amazon or whatever will be Fine, they're all basically the same Yeah they're generally all clones of one or two original designs, and you can usually find the schematics with a bit of googling.
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Jul 5, 2023 03:43
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The schematics are just the SoC bring-up diagram with an added reg and maybe an en cap to address the early silicon bug. I made a dev board for one in like an hour. Also the s3 is out and it sweet
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Jul 5, 2023 17:03
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"I'm really frustrated with this chip, I wanna test the waters on something else" "Just make your own dev board lol"
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Jul 5, 2023 17:07
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ante posted:"I'm really frustrated with this chip, I wanna test the waters on something else" Sure, if cost is your primary driver, you paying a 300% premium on buying the board via DIYing it.
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Jul 5, 2023 17:36
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PRADA SLUT posted:Sure, if cost is your primary driver, you paying a 300% premium on buying the board via DIYing it.   
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Jul 5, 2023 17:42
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oh, I was thinking the dev boards from espressif, they’re like $15 last I bought some
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Jul 5, 2023 20:14
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broke: $5 board from aliexpress woke: $45 of components, two weeks of development time, lead poisoning, and a new oscope
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Jul 5, 2023 20:16
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I like how those are the same cost, just one has $20 shipping. I would absolutely kill for a "gently caress it, toss it in a plain envelope with a Forever stamp and if it doesn't make it, it doesn't make it" option, especially for Mouser.
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Jul 5, 2023 20:33
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Zero VGS posted:I like how those are the same cost, just one has $20 shipping. That's only for the blank boards. That doesn't include all the tiny components that are only ever meant to be soldered by a pick and place machine.
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Jul 5, 2023 20:36
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When I rev my microcontroller board, I want to switch from an Adafruit dev board to the Raytac module that lives on the dev board. The Nordic 52840 mcu lives inside the Raytac module. The module has underside pads, 0.4 mm pitch but staggered so more like 2x 0.8 mm pitch rows. I think I can solder this with a stencil and skillet.  The Adafruit dev board is just way too big, even with the low profile SMD pin headers I special order from Samtec (lol).
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Jul 5, 2023 20:37
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PRADA SLUT posted:a new oscope Why are you even considering the other option, friend?
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Jul 5, 2023 20:47
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Zero VGS posted:What's some go-to stuff to add to a Mouser order to make it more worth the shipping? Are consumables marked up? I wanted to try out that surface-mount solder paste to see how it does with the hot air pencil I have. Spaghetti tubing, heat shrink, etc. Zero VGS posted:I would absolutely kill for a "gently caress it, toss it in a plain envelope with a Forever stamp and if it doesn't make it, it doesn't make it" option, especially for Mouser. Especially since there's TONS of components that would fit in a letter size envelope. Resistors, SMD... kid sinister fucked around with this message at 00:22 on Jul 6, 2023 |
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Jul 6, 2023 00:18
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kid sinister posted:Spaghetti tubing, heat shrink, etc. Hmm, never heard of spaghetti tubing, seems like it's just to manage wires better? Speaking of wire management, I can't recommend this poo poo enough: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HR9VS4I/ $7 shipped for a bag of 100 of these strain-relief cable clips with double-sided foam tape. Because of the way the plastic bridge on the inside of the clip is split, you can use it to hold down USB/power cables, or very thin gauge as well (you can put one pass of the thin wire under the double-sided tape to stick them down for extra security). They'll stick right to PCBs or enclosures very strongly.
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Jul 6, 2023 00:33
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Zero VGS posted:Hmm, never heard of spaghetti tubing, seems like it's just to manage wires better? It's kind of like heat shrink, except it doesn't shrink. It's mainly used to slide over exposed wires as an insulator. It's handy to have if you're doing point-to-point wiring or messing around with screw terminals. The good stuff is fiberglass and can take any temp you'll throw at it. That's the main benefit of spaghetti over heat shrink. The cheap stuff is plastics like PTFE and PVC which can melt from an iron. I'll admit that spaghetti tubing is a little old fashioned, but it is nice to have. Ooh, there's another good one as a "nice to have": wire ferrules. They're great for putting stranded wire in screw down blocks. Also, I like the stick on blocks with little slots that work with zip ties. Edit: fiberglass has one other advantage for you field guys: rodent resistance. Rodent + stomach full of glass = no more rodent. kid sinister fucked around with this message at 03:43 on Jul 6, 2023 |
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Jul 6, 2023 03:36
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Oh the things you learn when repairing old radios. When selenium rectifiers go bad, they smell. Terrible.
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Jul 8, 2023 01:42
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kid sinister posted:Oh the things you learn when repairing old radios. When selenium rectifiers go bad, they smell. I haven't smelled a burnt selenium rectifier, but I used to routinely replace voltage converters that burned up and spilled brown goop all over the board. You could tell one went bad by just sniffing the equipment. My coworkers thought it smelled awful, but it brought back memories from the late 70s for me when lightning struck our aerial TV antenna and cooked the box next to the TV that positioned the antenna. Some smells you just never forget.
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Jul 8, 2023 02:04
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Me neither, but my understanding is a lot of selenium (and tellurium) compounds smell sulfurous + more metallic. I believe I've seen some selenium compounds described as "smelling like a robot farted".
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Jul 8, 2023 04:18
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Whats in modern magic smoke? Even though its normally indicative of disaster, I think it smells great.
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Jul 8, 2023 09:26
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Splode posted:Whats in modern magic smoke? I'm gonna guess it's just your standard plastic combustion products with a bit of solder resist and FR4 char mixed in
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Jul 8, 2023 12:10
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Bad Munki posted:Just realized I could probably do something super duper slick with sliders instead of knobs… So this is working out great! Was originally looking at having as many as five of these boxes mounted…somewhere, on this cabinet, to control each light’s power supply. Maybe I could drive multiple light panels from one transformer but I didn’t want to worry about over-taxing anything. Easy enough this way, but the control boxes were going to make it clunky.  The transformers themselves get mounted to the underside of the cabinet, I made space for five, I can’t imagine wanting that many lights in this thing.  So, enter the sliders. Specced them thanks to y’all, drafted up a housing, everything fits great.  Little magnetic feetsies embedded in the housing so it doesn’t require any visible fasteners.   I plan to clip the tabs a little shorter and make some nubs to clip on to them, that’ll fit into that little pocket around each slider. The whole thing is small enough I can slap it on the roof inside the cabinet and it fits entirely behind the frame of the cabinet itself, out of view through the glass. As good as invisible. Really jazzed about the whole thing!
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Jul 8, 2023 20:15
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That looks great! For more visible modifications, Ponoko sells laser-cut 0.5mm adhesive-backed walnut veneer. The laser can also engrave text and graphics on the veneer. It's basically a 'sticker' made of real wood that you can slap on the front of your 3D printed whatever. A lot of places can do the same thing with stick-on carbon fiber, for a different look.
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Jul 8, 2023 20:55
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I'm trying to make something like a radio station "dead air" alarm. I'd like to use a relay to trigger a big warning light when there is more than 1 second of silence on an audio line. I bought one of these, cut out the electret mic and soldered an RCA connector in its place. It mostly works, but the hold time is only adjustable from 3-60seconds, and I need less than 1 sec. https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256801731175569.html How can I play with this? I tried desoldering the 25k time adjustment pot and putting a 50k resistor in its place, but the time went up not down. There's a taped-over photocell and another adjuster, so I thought maybe shorting or removing that would help, but it just quit working completely. Is there a better electronics LEGO for this?
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Jul 12, 2023 03:33
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Try putting a 100 ohm resistor in parallel with one of the 1001 surface mount resistors. I'm guessing one of the fixed resistors near the time adj pot is in series with it. When you put the 100 ohm R in parallel with the right SMD resistor, the hold time should drop a lot. It'll probably be a single resistor, not a combo. You don't need to desolder/remove any parts, just find the right spot to add a new resistor in parallel. e: You will want the time pot set to minimum time when doing this test. Hold time should drop from 3 secs to 0.3 sec or something like that when you find the right R. ryanrs fucked around with this message at 04:05 on Jul 12, 2023 |
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Jul 12, 2023 04:02
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ryanrs posted:Try putting a 100 ohm resistor in parallel with one of the 1001 surface mount resistors. I'm guessing one of the fixed resistors near the time adj pot is in series with it. When you put the 100 ohm R in parallel with the right SMD resistor, the hold time should drop a lot. It'll probably be a single resistor, not a combo. You don't need to desolder/remove any parts, just find the right spot to add a new resistor in parallel. Hey thanks! It was a bitch to solder, but now I have a “dead air alarm!” USB-C powered via a trigger module, adjustable audio threshold, and a switch to move between NO/NC on the relay so it can also function as an audio “call light” https://youtu.be/oqg9rwdfsXg
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Jul 12, 2023 23:03
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Great!
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Jul 12, 2023 23:24
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Hey, all you designers out there. If you're designing metal shields, don't cover VRs and VCs! It's even worse if they're partially covered. It gives users a glimmer of hope, then yanks it away. I'm going to need to crank my soldering station up all the way and hope it gets hot enough to remove this shield to reach this last IF transformer in this radio I'm working on.
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Jul 13, 2023 00:40
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eddiewalker posted:Hey thanks! It was a bitch to solder, but now I have a “dead air alarm!” Yeah seconding ryanrs. It's really clean and professional looking. That'd be something cool to have on my desk. (At least until it destroys my eyes from the constant blinking lol)
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Jul 13, 2023 01:46
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About to order this pcb because I need a label for a switch (14x50 mm). Pretty sure it'll be cheaper than getting a sticker printed. It'll be sharing shipping fees with another board. Still feels kinda wrong to build this as a pcb, though.
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Jul 13, 2023 05:25
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...at least it's RoHS compliant.
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Jul 13, 2023 06:05
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Change the text to the copper layer and get it gold plated for a more glamorous look.
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Jul 13, 2023 07:34
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Also if whatever service you're using puts their own serial number on your board, make sure to do whatever to have it put on the back.
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Jul 13, 2023 07:53
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ENIG over Rogers so I can have high-contrast white text with gold flourishes, ha ha. But then it will no longer be cheaper than custom printed stickers.
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Jul 13, 2023 08:50
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Charles Ford posted:Change the text to the copper layer and get it gold plated for a more glamorous look. I was looking for an actually-vintage USB 1.1 hub (they're all hideous transparent-plastic o.g.-imac-inspired monstrosities and the cables are mostly going a little greenish) and I saw that somebody is selling these retro-styled hubs (or something?) with what looks like a PCB front panel:  Turns out you can do a drat nice job with black solder mask. Check out that textured surface. I assume it's just metal in that crosshatch patten under the solder mask. I'm sure it'll look like poo poo once it gets scratched but it looks a lot better than it has any right to for being such a homemade solution.
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Jul 14, 2023 03:50
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SendCutSend needs to add printing as an option. e: re. black solder mask, glossy black doesn't have the right look, and matte black is somewhat delicate. I made a giant 12" wide pcb in matte black, and the mask did not seem to adhere to the board as tenaciously as standard green solder mask. ryanrs fucked around with this message at 05:03 on Jul 14, 2023 |
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Jul 14, 2023 04:57
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Quick question: I am making a thing that has a little tiny boost converter in it. The boost converter has a coil inductor on it. The device also has a neodymium magnet (10mm dia. x 3mm thick) that is mounted right next to and in line with this inductor. Can this cause any problems?
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Jul 15, 2023 01:27
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I don't believe it will, as the coil only cares about changing magnetic fields
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Jul 15, 2023 01:29
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If the magnet actually causes a significant field in the inductor core it would lower the saturation current. It would be equivalent to having another winding on there with a DC current going through it. That could be bad if the inductor's already close to saturation or the field's really strong, I guess? Edit: somehow http://www.vk2zay.net/article/200 was the best source I could come up with quickly where somebody mentions doing this, but he points out something I hadn't considered: if the magnet's pointing the right way you'll increase the saturation current of your inductor, so if you're having trouble and the polarity of the magnet doesn't matter, you can always flip it over. Stack Machine fucked around with this message at 13:18 on Jul 15, 2023 |
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Jul 15, 2023 03:10
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Congrats on just inventing the fluxgate magnetometer, which uses the same principle to detect small magnetic fields. In the case of a fluxgate compass, the earth's magnetic field causes an asymmetry in the core's saturation characteristics. The compass electronically measures this bias to find North.
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Jul 15, 2023 05:17
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Hey friends, I want to make myself known a little cause I'll be dropping in when I have the time. I love projects but have been sidelined by having kids and life in general so I'll be in here to ask for advice. Currently working on a minivan entertainment system via raspberry pi but it's not too interesting. May pop in for advice.
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Jul 17, 2023 04:51
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