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StormDrain
May 22, 2003

Thirteen Letter

boxen posted:

Fix the brakes -
The brake pedal is fully locked up but the wheels turn, so at a minimum the master cylinder is bad. It's a single-pot master, so I'm going to replace that with either one from a later year with separate front and rear circuits, or just get an aftermarket one. Debating rebuilding the drums at all four corners (cheap-ish), or just biting the bullet and getting a disc brake upgrade all the way around because that's what I'd like to do eventually anyway, as well as replacing the brake lines with new.

First off, start your thread as I want to watch and comment.

If you have the means, do discs now. You'll end up replacing stuff you want to replace now anyway if that makes sense. Replacing everything on the brake system helps your confidence in the car so it's good you have it up high as a goal. It'll be much easier and faster to replace it wholesale as well, which it looks like you want to do. If you're putting in your own lines you know what size the fittings are for sure, rather than ordering a brake hose and finding out they switched sizes mid year or some kind of nonsense.

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LloydDobler
Oct 15, 2005

You shared it with a dick.

StormDrain posted:

First off, start your thread as I want to watch and comment.

If you have the means, do discs now. You'll end up replacing stuff you want to replace now anyway if that makes sense. Replacing everything on the brake system helps your confidence in the car so it's good you have it up high as a goal. It'll be much easier and faster to replace it wholesale as well, which it looks like you want to do. If you're putting in your own lines you know what size the fittings are for sure, rather than ordering a brake hose and finding out they switched sizes mid year or some kind of nonsense.

Exactly what I woulda posted. Great shooting brake, I'd try to source the rear glass but only if it was available with new good seals and all that. If you have to cobble anything about it just keep it panels. So much cool potential there.

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
if you want discs, go discs. but if you want to keep it period-ish, there's really nothing wrong with keeping the unassisted drums (if they work). my jeep and my bike are the only ones with disc brakes, and i dont really miss it on my other ones. dual circuit is pretty important though

if you do a lot of high performance driving where fade would be a concern, thats another matter, but that doesn't sound like your goal for this car

Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


boxen posted:

I bought a thing today.



1964 Chevelle 300 2-door wagon that someone welded up the rear windows on to make a sedan delivery. Remarkably good welding job, though. Also abnormal is the 400 big block and TH400 replacing what was presumably a 283 with a 3-speed manual on the column. Doesn't run (no battery, Quadrajet on the 400 needs work) and the brakes are nonfunctional (but the car rolls) and needs a lot of other cosmetic and mechanical work, but the body and frame are remarkably straight and rust free.

That's cool. Needs the rest of the wheels to match that wide slotted on the back, there. I don't think I've ever seen an A-body 2-door wagon in the wild, sedan delivery or not.

chrisgt posted:

It needs a banner that says "free 10mm sockets" on the back windows and a 6-71 blower out the hood.

EvilBeard posted:

Some large flake paint and hand lettering.

Post a thread anyway - currently, threads don't expire, so you can post as little as needed.
Re: the electrical - first thing would be to trace the battery cables. It's entirely conceivable that they used the "wrong" colors. Whichever is bolted directly to the starter is positive, whichever goes to the frame or engine block is ground. It is very much not a positive ground car from the factory. An entire rewire with a Painless or American Autowire designed specifically for GM-A-bodies is pretty easy, though, especially with little to no interior.

Oh, and at least do the discs on the front. The kits using OEM replacement parts are pretty reasonable. GM A-bodies are pretty well-supported, though the '64-67 are kind of oddballs in some ways.
Going from manual 4-wheel drums in my Cutlass to power front discs was niiiiice.

boxen
Feb 20, 2011
The other nice thing about going direct to discs is that I can get everything from the same place at the same time, and minimize worries about accidentally buying slightly the wrong thing somewhere. I'll probably save up and shell out for a kit.

I will start a thread in a few weeks, I'm visiting family for a week and when I get back I'm going to order some parts. That will give it at least a few updates.

I pulled the plugs and sprayed some Marvel Mystery Oil in the cylinders, the plugs looked in so back in they went (note for later: goddammit). I put a new battery in it and it cranked right over. The fuel was disconnected from the carburetor already so I dumped some fresh gas down the carb and it caught a few times but wouldn't run. I hooked the fuel pump up to pull from a gas can, and hooked the carb back up, still no luck. I've played with it a few more times and still haven't gotten it to start.

Goddammit - I may have forgotten to tighten the plugs when I put them back in, I was going to compression test it but got excited to start it. gently caress. Now I have to get on a plane.

Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


So, if you haven't already watched a bunch of revival videos from the likes of Vice Grip Garage and/or Junkyard Digs, maybe do so. They pull poo poo out of fields and barns and make it go, and have encountered most problems you could possibly encounter.
At the very least, you're probably going to need to rebuild the carb. They don't like sitting around dry after being run very much, oddly enough.

Mr-Spain
Aug 27, 2003

Bullshit... you can be mine.
Dropped it off at a friends detail shop for a much needed detail, paint correction and ceramic coating. He does excellent work and the offer's been on the table for awhile, but I just took his kid and mine to a baseball tournament for the weekend so the time was ripe to pick that cherry haha

DJ Commie
Feb 29, 2004

Stupid drivers always breaking car, Gronk fix car...
I bought a 1979 Ford Fiesta that had been sitting under an oak tree in the same spot for 18 years, #4 had a bit of rust, had seized the engine. An hour of Marvel Mystery Oil with the plugs pulled out and I was able to get it unstuck rocking it back and forth in gear. I do dislike that the MMO bottles are super brittle, I swear I've spilled far more of that stuff from cracking the bottle than ever used effectively.

afen
Sep 23, 2003

nemo saltat sobrius
Did some measurements for the Cayenne calipers that I'm changing over to on the S6:


A wheel bolt, a carriage washer, a copper washer and a nut, she's ready for the road:


Looks like I'll be making some custom brackets for these calipers, luckily I have a lathe.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009
Probation
Can't post for 7 hours!
In preparation for NEFR I'm fixing my AC leak. I was not able to get eyes or hands on it, but I knew the general location and could get a refrigerant detector to it. Today I began tearing things apart and I have arrived at the problem:

https://i.imgur.com/lXAWlyT.gifv

H1KE
May 7, 2007

Somehow, I don't think they'd approve the franchise...


Crosspost from audio thread. PO had the power hooked up, but the inline had been sitting against the ABS module, for god knows how long. I lost sub and amp, checked the inline and this is what happened. New fuse from an old kit and she has clean power now.


Today's job:








New front bearings and new radius rod bushes as I slowly change out the entire front end. Need to do lower controls and struts/strut tops now and the whole front end will be new, and I can start working on the rear. A whole lot of swearing, coffee, cigarettes and enough RP7 to drown a horse finally got the bolts out. 224,000kms so I'm guessing everything is OEM, as I needed a breaker bar and a few 'gently caress ya!' to get the radius rods bolts off.

Now to shell out $260 a side for Nolathane lower control arms... :shepspends: I could spend a LOT less on simple rubber, but I'm doing all poly all through, as they'll outlast the car and the initial costs are outweighed by the amount you'll spend replacing the rubber units.

Night Danger Moose
Jan 5, 2004

YO SOY FIESTA

Deleted the load leveling sensor on the Camry wagon (now affectionately nicknamed Doris) and the blown brake line attached to it, ran copper nickel lines in its place, brakes bled. I am never ever flaring brake lines while on a vehicle again.



Then parked her next to the boyfriend's 2000 GTP so we could have our old brown cars together. I borrowed a dealer tag off one of my techs so I can drive it to cars & coffee tomorrow.

MrOnBicycle
Jan 18, 2008
Wait wat?
Finally got round to installing the backup camera, changed the fuel filter (probably the original, 20 year old one...) and was "happy" to discover that there was only minimal rust on the front driver side jacking point on the E39. Cleaned it up, put rust converter, primer and some paint on it. Also tried polishing the oxidized aluminium window trim, but it takes way too long so I'm going to order some products that deal with it much faster.

I still have a vacuum leak that's making the car throw intermittent P0171 and P0174 codes, so I need to try to find it as it's annoying even if the car runs fine. I tried spraying some carb cleaner at various points in the engine bay, but it didn't affect the engine RPM at all. The next step is DIYing a smoke tester and see if it reveals anything.

LloydDobler
Oct 15, 2005

You shared it with a dick.

Night Danger Moose posted:

the Camry wagon (now affectionately nicknamed Doris)

A friend of mine named her car Doris. Doris the Taurus. Always made me chuckle.

I finished re-covering the headliner in my daughter's car this week, what a loving tedious job. OTOH it's not particularly difficult, just takes hours. I did learn a few things too, like the main locator is the sunroof hole. The little edge trim that you yank off without thinking about it has two channels. And one channel clips to the sunroof frame so it holds the headliner to the car. But only on the front and rear. The sides don't hook on the same flange because the shade has to slide there. Etc, etc.

Sucks to find that out after you've screwed down all the ohshit handles and visors.

Also learned that foam backed headliner fabric dulls those cheap 100 pack razor blades after about 30 inches. They just loving stop cutting. I went through about 20 of them.

It's one of those jobs where you forget to keep taking pictures because you're tired and burnt out and all you're thinking about is finishing. Arms are nice and sore from all the overhead work.

Verman
Jul 4, 2005
Third time is a charm right?
I was changing the oil on my 4runner today and decided to take a look at my fog light that went out.

Hmm. I think I overfilled the blinker fluid.

Sockington
Jul 26, 2003
I need to do one in my wife’s Sienna except it’s fully smashed out. I think it’s the same part as a 4Runner of the same years too so I could get the cool off-road ones. :awesomelon:

Finally burned the first tank off in this. 3/4 fresh gas and 1/4 tank of varsol. Need to order up a fresh fuel filter and keep chugging along.



There’s a lot of drivetrain slop/backlash in the ol’ gal. I assume the motor mounts are absolute trash by now.

Powershift
Nov 23, 2009


Pulled the starter back out, notched (largely the wrong spot of) the crossmember, put it back in.

There isn't really any indication that it was touching on the starter, but it's peace of mind.




Also tested out the mondo jack stands i bought for the suspension refresh. When i get into it it'll be a couple inches higher than the truck on my ramps. I'll also be able to install the drop shackles in the rear whne it comes time.

joat mon
Oct 15, 2009

I am the master of my lamp;
I am the captain of my tub.
In my continuing quest for adequate engine cooling, put the heater core from a Ford L-series truck in front of the radiator and ran the heater lines from the water pump to it.

It works!
Before, with temperatures in the 70s-80s and speeds over 40 or so, it would be overheating (230+ degrees) within 10 miles.
Just took it for a 25 mile drive, including a spirited curvy 15 mile section, with temps in the upper 80s and coolant temps stayed between 205 and 215.
Next, adequate driver cooling.

Suburban Dad
Jan 10, 2007


Well what's attached to a leash that it made itself?
The punchline is the way that you've been fuckin' yourself






Just your standard rust belt sway bar link repair kit. I hoped it would come off easy since it's a 2015. How naive of me. The Allen key ends always round out before I can get the nut off. Extra gently caress you to Subaru for making access not great as the top attaches to the rear of the strut in a semi encased ear that you can't get a wrench on well and a socket doesn't work since you need the Allen key to keep it from moving. :v:

Suburban Dad fucked around with this message at 17:49 on Jul 14, 2023

Olympic Mathlete
Feb 25, 2011

:h:


I've stopped fighting with them, they just get cut off now.

RIP Paul Walker
Feb 26, 2004


This is the sort of thing I dreamed about as a weirdo in early 2000's Omaha <3

Night Danger Moose
Jan 5, 2004

YO SOY FIESTA

Basic maintenance day on the camry - oil change, air filter, marker bulb. Made sure the brake lines were still dry. Added front sway bar bushings to the to-do list. Ordered an axle nut for when I do the right front cv axle. Progress!

EvilBeard
Apr 24, 2003

Big Q's House of Pancakes

Fun Shoe


First round of super build on, let the block sanding beginning.

EvilBeard fucked around with this message at 23:01 on Jul 15, 2023

West SAAB Story
Mar 13, 2014

by Athanatos

(and can't post for 236 days!)

Replaced the <200k 2000 9-5 with a 100k> 2004 9-5. Lost the weather band, and the subframe bushings are totally gone after the last winter hopping over 1'+ drifts. Poor car wasn't ready for it.

Oil, filters, minor internals all handled, but the blend doors are both broken and still waiting on parts as I literally live in an undeliverable area these days and they sent it to the wrong zip code.

His Divine Shadow
Aug 7, 2000

I'm not a fascist. I'm a priest. Fascists dress up in black and tell people what to do.
New air filter, this is the old one so it was time:

Valt
May 14, 2006

Oh HELL yeah.
Ultra Carp
Well I got my 383 back from the machine shop. The pistons are installed now and the rocker studs are pulled and threaded for thread in rocker studs. I also ordered guide plates since I'm running full roller rockers on it. I don't know if I have posted about this motor before but its a old school 4 bolt main 350 block with a set of camel hump heads that have been surfaced and verified to not have cracks. I painted it all and left the camel hump casting polished and then cleared it all.




I also placed my order for my camshaft / lifters and my rocker arms.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-CL12-212-2

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRO-66907

This is all going into my 67' C10 with a muncie 4 speed behind it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q9Umd-ZLb74

Mr-Spain
Aug 27, 2003

Bullshit... you can be mine.
Oil change and brake fluid flush on the GMT800. Don't be on the fence about a motive pressure bleeder, just buy it. It's that awesome.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009
Probation
Can't post for 7 hours!

Mr-Spain posted:

Don't be on the fence about a motive pressure bleeder, just buy it. It's that awesome.

I will always plug the Motive.

I get it, I get it, you need a cap for each vehicle type so your mityvac is so much easier, but you'll never bleed a clutch with it and you'll never get the pedal feel out of a sports car/something with nice brakes that you can with a pressure bleeder. You're not a shop, spend the time to get or make the few caps you need. It's worth it.

And if you have something high performance where you're actually replacing brake fluid on the reg it makes that really easy. Even though you're not allowed to buy ATE blue fluid anymore (stupid) which made it obvious when you had all new stuff through the lines (used to switch between blue and undyed "gold" every flush).

Motronic fucked around with this message at 15:14 on Jul 20, 2023

Wrar
Sep 9, 2002


Soiled Meat

Motronic posted:

I will always plug the Motive.

I get it, I get it, you need a cap for each vehicle type so you're mityvac is so much easier, but you'll never bleed a clutch with it and you'll never get the pedal feel out of a sports car/something with nice brakes that you can with a pressure bleeder. You're not a shop, spend the time to get or make the few caps you need. It's worth it.

And if you have something high performance where you're actually replacing brake fluid on the reg it makes that really easy. Even though you're not allowed to buy ATE blue fluid anymore (stupid) which made it obvious when you had all new stuff through the lines (used to switch between blue and undyed "gold" every flush).

Good deal. I've gotten to have a large enough fleet and two cars that are/will be tracked and nearby friends that it would make sense, but one has a Motive (Nad) so I'll borrow his.

fknlo
Jul 6, 2009


Fun Shoe
Was actually gonna ask about a pressure bleeder in the tool thread, guess I have my answer.

And it looks like there are plenty of options from other brands for adapters if motive doesn't make one. Sweet.

fknlo fucked around with this message at 15:27 on Jul 20, 2023

DJ Commie
Feb 29, 2004

Stupid drivers always breaking car, Gronk fix car...
I have the Power Bleeder with the 0101 Universal fitting and it seems to work on most of the random setups I have, but if it goes wrong and pops off you make a mess. I really should add in a ball valve to the top of the adapter or something.

Commodore_64
Feb 16, 2011

love thy likpa




Valt posted:

I also placed my order for my camshaft / lifters and my rocker arms.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-CL12-212-2


This is all going into my 67' C10 with a muncie 4 speed behind it.


I know you just ordered the kit, but I wanted to share that I recently found out that Comp does SBC lifters with DLC / diamond like carbon coating on the face, for not too much more. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-812d-16 I have a set sitting in a box, I really should check if they were crowned properly. I guess this year Comp and a ton of other major lifter sellers had several bad / uncrowned lifters make it through QC to the point where people were getting 25% fallout of each set. Some youtube videos of guys wiping 9 cams in a row despite building 20+ engines a year for a decade or so without doing it once. Anyway, if you are curious, grab a mic or surface plate and dial indicator and make sure you have about 0.002" of crown from the edge to the center of the cam face of the lifter.

Edit - Calipers are fine, too. Check all the cam lobes for taper on the nose as well! For some reason there are flat ones making it out. You need the taper on both the lobe and the lifter for them to rotate properly!

Commodore_64 fucked around with this message at 17:08 on Jul 20, 2023

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe
oil change on the joop. Turns out its the most consistent thing in my fleet of bullshit.
Was hoping to make it back home before needing to do this buuut its oil is at the end of its service life. Seeing as how I just completed yet another road side turbo swap I had all the tools onboard to facilitate a roadside oil change.
Gonna cut its intervals to 5k instead of 10, wtf mopar. 80mph for a thousand miles in 105F heat really does a number to 0W-20.

McTinkerson
Jul 5, 2007

Dreaming of Shock Diamonds


Are the bearing tolerances that tight that it needs 20 weight? That's nuts. I guess every little bit helps with efficiency.

Edit: Talk about a scenic backdrop for routine maintenance.

cursedshitbox
May 20, 2012

Your rear-end wont survive my hammering.



Fun Shoe
Presumably yeah. This more or less a disposaengine since they're so cheap if it needs anything more than heads I'm just gonna whip another at it.
I never had good luck rebuilding OHC mopar poo poo anyway.

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009
Probation
Can't post for 7 hours!
Finally installed the winch in the dump trailer.



I've been agonizing over this every time I thought about how to do it over the last......5 years this winch has been sitting on the shelf. Mounting it to the floor on some sort of plate with a disconnect pin, routing the power to some sort of plug, etc, etc, etc. Just overcomplicating the whole thing.

Now It's mounted up high and on a main upright support beam so you can drag things up the ramps without a roller or similar at the end of the bed, the wires go right the hell over the top because they end up in the toolbox anyway, on a set of andersen powerpoles so I can quickly disconnect it, take out the two bolts holding the winch on, wrap the cord around the winch and throw it in the toolbox when it's not being used.

Why did this take so long?

Verman
Jul 4, 2005
Third time is a charm right?
Thinking about and planning the project always seem to take infinitely longer than actually doing the project. And it's always the same "this makes my life better, why did I not do it sooner?"

Darchangel
Feb 12, 2009

Tell him about the blower!


Valt posted:

Well I got my 383 back from the machine shop. The pistons are installed now and the rocker studs are pulled and threaded for thread in rocker studs. I also ordered guide plates since I'm running full roller rockers on it. I don't know if I have posted about this motor before but its a old school 4 bolt main 350 block with a set of camel hump heads that have been surfaced and verified to not have cracks. I painted it all and left the camel hump casting polished and then cleared it all.




I also placed my order for my camshaft / lifters and my rocker arms.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-CL12-212-2

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/PRO-66907

This is all going into my 67' C10 with a muncie 4 speed behind it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q9Umd-ZLb74

Fix that taillight and leave the rest alone.

Valt
May 14, 2006

Oh HELL yeah.
Ultra Carp

Darchangel posted:

Fix that taillight and leave the rest alone.

I have no intention of changing the truck and the tail light has already been fixed.

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Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.
did you clear over the patina, or is it weirdly glossy for some other reason?

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