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Jonny 290
May 5, 2005



[ASK] me about OS/2 Warp
^^^ Last Miata content i'll be posting for about six months. Got caught in a hailbomb I couldn't escape from. Roof, trunk, hood all destroyed. Small dent or two on all 4 fenders and the filler flap. Glass all good.

I do have comprehensive.

Claim is already opened, inspection tomorrow morning.

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mobby_6kl
Aug 9, 2009

by Fluffdaddy

Jonny 290 posted:

^^^ Last Miata content i'll be posting for about six months. Got caught in a hailbomb I couldn't escape from. Roof, trunk, hood all destroyed. Small dent or two on all 4 fenders and the filler flap. Glass all good.

I do have comprehensive.

Claim is already opened, inspection tomorrow morning.

Nooooo mazda curse strikes again :(

moxieman
Jul 30, 2013

I'd rather die than go to heaven.
Hello thread. I just purchased a 2001 NB with 150K miles for what is essentially a fly and drive. New tires, brakes, and an oil change should be enough get me the 600 mile drive home. After I get home I’ll do a shifter bushing rebuild, thoroughly clean it, and then think about a timing belt / water pump job.




Question for the thread: The clutch pedal has been messed with, and is missing a bushing and some of the rubber bits, and the pedal surface itself is pretty worn out as well. Is there a rebuild/refresh kit out there or do I just need to order individual pieces from the parts fiche?

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


Nice looking NB. Non clue on the clutch bushings etc. If it's a thing I 'm sure there's a kit at flyin miata etc.

Jonny 290
May 5, 2005



[ASK] me about OS/2 Warp
estimate is in





i can't loving believe they want to try to pdr the roof lmbo. Well, get your best guys on it i spose

SpartanIvy
May 18, 2007
Hair Elf

Jonny 290 posted:

estimate is in





i can't loving believe they want to try to pdr the roof lmbo. Well, get your best guys on it i spose

I've seen some PDR guys that are indistinguishable from wizards

Jonny 290
May 5, 2005



[ASK] me about OS/2 Warp
Since the car is black, i'm seriously considering going rogue here. Emailed carbonmiata for a quote on a full cf (oem, not that vented crap) hood and trunk, and then just dumping 2-3k into PDR wizards for the rest

I'm fine if i go a little in the red versus the insurance check.

I also have an appointment on Thursday at The Body Shop That Porsche Maniacs Use here in denver, so we'll get a number from them.

TheBacon
Feb 8, 2012

#essereFerrari

drat that NB has a hardtop too, nice find!


Sucks about the hail. I would be shocked at that estimate being close to actually making it right :/

tactlessbastard
Feb 4, 2001

Godspeed, post
Fun Shoe
My hail damage last spring wound up being around 5k to the PDR guy when it was all said and done. And I didn't have to get the roof repaired.

MetaJew
Apr 14, 2006
Gather round, one and all, and thrill to my turgid tales of underwhelming misadventure!
I'm very upset at myself. I dropped a paint roller extension pole on to my right front fender while trying to get something down in my garage, and scuffed the paint and dented the very delicate aluminum.

I imagine that access to the two dents is pretty easy, and a PDR person would probably not have much difficulty. How do y'all locate a good PDR person and how much should one generally expect to pay.

The scuffed paint is another thing-- I may see if my friend with a buffer can help me knock them down and make it a little less noticeable. I still would like to get a vinyl wrap but the prices have gotten to high to feel justified.

Cat Hatter
Oct 24, 2006

Hatters gonna hat.

SpartanIvy posted:

I've seen some PDR guys that are indistinguishable from wizards

My dad got a dent fixed that was right on a body line and we couldn't see it afterwards even knowing where to look.

Friend of mine had a hole torn in his plastic bumper and only one shop in the area was willing to fix it instead of replacing it. The fix was so good we didn't believe it was the original until we reached under the car to feel the other side.

These were both on black cars too. Absolute wizards out there.

MetaJew posted:

How do y'all locate a good PDR person

Luck or word of mouth unfortunately. The best probably don't work at a chain though which means it's a complete crapshoot whether you find a criminal/moron or a true artist who hasn't raised his prices since Jimmy Carter was president.

Ether Frenzy
Dec 22, 2006




Nap Ghost
The problem with really good PDR guys/great detailers is they immediately find better jobs due to their attention to the critical things.

ethanol
Jul 13, 2007



I've got a family friend trying to sell their 90 Miata. it's red. one owner, garaged, ~120k miles I think. I don't really know how to value it cause it has some painted over rust on the flare in front of rear all tires. it has a red hard top that didn't get used much so it looks newer than the car itself. the trunk doesn't leak or anything.

any idea what something like this could be worth?


ethanol fucked around with this message at 14:42 on Jul 2, 2023

Olympic Mathlete
Feb 25, 2011

:h:


^ that looks like it needs new sills at a minimum. They're well blown out from what I can see in the close up images. That's not a small or cheap job so expect a couple of grand off the price of whatever an NA goes for.

Coca Koala
Nov 28, 2005

ongoing nowhere
College Slice
Probably depends a lot on what your local market is like - where I'm at in the bay area, I wouldn't be surprised to see that car listed for 5-6k.

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


3500 for the car and sell the hard top separate for 2500.

TheBacon
Feb 8, 2012

#essereFerrari

Depends on the area but in Seattle I would expect that with the hardtop to be maybe 6-8k.

Probably better off selling the hardtop alone as mentioned for like 2k

mobby_6kl
Aug 9, 2009

by Fluffdaddy
I'm making the shopping list for a timing belt job for my NB2 1.8 VVT. I assume it's still on the original one and I need to do the valve cover anyway due to a leak so it's time. Found this part diagram which seems to cover NB2s: https://www.miata.net/garage/90-99Parts/01%2002%201-B1%201-M16%201000-4360%20Engine-Chassis.pdf


So far I've got:
Valve cover gasket, BP05-10-235: CORTECO 440200P
Spark plugs NGK BKR5E

Timing belt kit: SKF VKMA 94201 https://vehicleaftermarket.skf.com/id/id/products/VKMA94201
Water pump, 8ABB-15-010A: SKF VKPC 94617 https://vehicleaftermarket.skf.com/id/id/products/VKPC94617

Cam seal 1, FZ05-10-602A: CORTECO 19016671B (48x34x8mm)
Cam seal 2, ZL09-10-602: Reinz 81-53526-00 (61x47x7mm)
Front crankshaft seal BP05-11-312: CORTECO 19036917B (100x83x9mm)

Thermostat, BP6F-15-171: GATES TH24488G1
Thermostat gasket, B621-15-173: (if not included) EPS 1.890.520
Radiator cap, KL01-15-205: GATES RC133
Silicone coolant hose kit https://www.ilmotorsport.de/en/mx-5-black-silicone-cooling-hose-set-ilmotorsport-6549

PCV Valve: BP05-13-890
PCV grommet BP05-13-338
Can't find these other than from Mazda/Moss but that can be done separately anyway.


Anything stand stand out as wrong or missing, something else to do "while I'm there"? I replaced the accessory belts last year. I'll check of OEM parts are reasonably attainable of course but I think SKF and Corteco stuff should be good too.

E: added radiator cap and silicone hose set, might be a good idea to replace rubber crap on a 20 year old car

mobby_6kl fucked around with this message at 18:26 on Jul 7, 2023

Olympic Mathlete
Feb 25, 2011

:h:


Ehhhhhh just some loctite for your waterpump bolts and some rtv/sealant for the corners of the cam seal where the camshaft covers meet the head perhaps. Seems you've got everything else covered.

Viper915
Sep 18, 2005
Pokey Little Puppy

Does the vvt engine still use the hard piped coolant line on the exhaust manifold side? I'd get a new o ring for that if so. Also big recommend for the cam gear ninja tool that flyin Miata sells. They have tools for installing the seals too but you can get away with PVC pipe or whatever instead for those. I think there might be an o ring on the thermostat neck too that I don't see in your kit.

Hikaki
Oct 11, 2005
Motherfucking Fujitsu Heavy Industries

mobby_6kl posted:

Anything stand stand out as wrong or missing, something else to do "while I'm there"? I replaced the accessory belts last year. I'll check of OEM parts are reasonably attainable of course but I think SKF and Corteco stuff should be good too.

E: added radiator cap and silicone hose set, might be a good idea to replace rubber crap on a 20 year old car

Get a seal remover tool if you don't already have one. When I did mine, I elected to save money by hammering in a screwdriver or whatever and then pulling the seal out, but I ended up loving it up by scoring every shaft. It turns out playing Operation is very hard when you're hammering something in. My engine leaked a ton after that until I got rid of the car. Don't be like me and just get the dang tool. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FPYW4K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Cat Hatter
Oct 24, 2006

Hatters gonna hat.

Viper915 posted:

Does the vvt engine still use the hard piped coolant line on the exhaust manifold side? I'd get a new o ring for that if so. Also big recommend for the cam gear ninja tool that flyin Miata sells. They have tools for installing the seals too but you can get away with PVC pipe or whatever instead for those. I think there might be an o ring on the thermostat neck too that I don't see in your kit.

If you're cheap you can just use wrenches and vice grips (#notsponsored by Kobalt):


I'd also advise not being a dipshit and remember that a 4-stroke engine has two top-dead-centers so your camshafts aren't 180 degrees out of phase and the timing marks line up. Unlike me:


Oh, and while looking for those pictures, I came across these I took of a car I saw in a parking lot years ago. I usually joke that my car's previous owner thought he was Dominic Toretto so I guess this was Paul Walker's:

mobby_6kl
Aug 9, 2009

by Fluffdaddy

Olympic Mathlete posted:

Ehhhhhh just some loctite for your waterpump bolts and some rtv/sealant for the corners of the cam seal where the camshaft covers meet the head perhaps. Seems you've got everything else covered.
Ok I should have some of both left but better check to make sure now and not when the engine is in pieces!

Probably a good idea to think about other consumables, maybe degrease everything there too at the same time.

Viper915 posted:

Does the vvt engine still use the hard piped coolant line on the exhaust manifold side? I'd get a new o ring for that if so. Also big recommend for the cam gear ninja tool that flyin Miata sells. They have tools for installing the seals too but you can get away with PVC pipe or whatever instead for those. I think there might be an o ring on the thermostat neck too that I don't see in your kit.
No idea, do you mean this pipe & o ring? If I search for E301-15-287 in my local stores I get Mazda water pumps but not the Miata ones :confused: But I found one that's the o-ring and apparently it's also used on the CX-9???



I was going to 3d-print the cam tool, buuuut I'll have to take off the gears to replace the seals anyway so that's annoying. So I guess I'll have to get the giant wrenches instead.

The thermostat is 15-171 in this picture, do you mean the 15-106A o-ring there, near the big X?

Hikaki posted:

Get a seal remover tool if you don't already have one. When I did mine, I elected to save money by hammering in a screwdriver or whatever and then pulling the seal out, but I ended up loving it up by scoring every shaft. It turns out playing Operation is very hard when you're hammering something in. My engine leaked a ton after that until I got rid of the car. Don't be like me and just get the dang tool. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FPYW4K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I've used the pick types to remove a bunch of seals from the transmission on the shitbox Fit without messing anything up but this is a good idea, no need to risk loving up the crankshaft here. At least if I can get the tool locally, so far aliexpress seems like my only option.

Cat Hatter posted:

If you're cheap you can just use wrenches and vice grips (#notsponsored by Kobalt):


I'd also advise not being a dipshit and remember that a 4-stroke engine has two top-dead-centers so your camshafts aren't 180 degrees out of phase and the timing marks line up. Unlike me:

Yeah... like this... also looks like taking off the VVT cam is going to be a bigger pain in the rear end, great.

rowebot44
Feb 21, 2006
Don't forget the oil washers for the oil pressure sensor on the valve cover.

Cat Hatter
Oct 24, 2006

Hatters gonna hat.

mobby_6kl posted:

Yeah... like this... also looks like taking off the VVT cam is going to be a bigger pain in the rear end, great.

I left mine in place when I did mine because I was too lazy to do the seals, but it looks pretty straightforward:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x9DNONJGHMI&t=387s

That guy is very Youtuber in his presentation (at least somewhat on purpose), but he's also a good source of information. I used this video to do my timing belt because the engine doesn't start disassembled out of a car:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HKHv5_d1a6I

mobby_6kl
Aug 9, 2009

by Fluffdaddy

rowebot44 posted:

Don't forget the oil washers for the oil pressure sensor on the valve cover.
Wait, isn't that somewhere near the oil filter? This is an NB.

Cat Hatter posted:

I left mine in place when I did mine because I was too lazy to do the seals, but it looks pretty straightforward:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x9DNONJGHMI&t=387s

That guy is very Youtuber in his presentation (at least somewhat on purpose), but he's also a good source of information. I used this video to do my timing belt because the engine doesn't start disassembled out of a car:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HKHv5_d1a6I
Oooh should've known to check Miata dad! I actually don't find him too obnoxious so I'll go over those before starting, thanks. I kind of forgot about him when he stopped posting regularly for a while.

Viper915 posted:

...I think there might be an o ring on the thermostat neck too that I don't see in your kit.
Going back to this, did you see the content of the kit somewhere? I just assumed it comes with the gaskets as they all do but I see no actual evidence of this anywhere.

Some other kits (but not all) even have this little straight rubber seal on the very right (B660-10-243B)



I really don't want to hunt them all down individually :(

also

:pervert:

rowebot44
Feb 21, 2006
There is an oil line that feeds the vvt off of the back of the head that you need to take off to get the valve cover off.

Coredump
Dec 1, 2002

Miata pops is legit. Though something about him strikes me as though he escaped from the year 2002 to the future to show us Miata content.

Cat Hatter
Oct 24, 2006

Hatters gonna hat.

mobby_6kl posted:

Oooh should've known to check Miata dad! I actually don't find him too obnoxious so I'll go over those before starting, thanks. I kind of forgot about him when he stopped posting regularly for a while.

I just know these dead gay forums have a vocal population that complains about anything not presented like 90s History Channel so I wanted to give a warning before they turn off at "Hey, it's ya boy". That said, people who care about presentation probably don't drive Miatas.

Coredump posted:

Miata pops is legit. Though something about him strikes me as though he escaped from the year 2002 to the future to show us Miata content.

That's around the vintage of his newest Miata so it's plausible.

Viper915
Sep 18, 2005
Pokey Little Puppy

mobby_6kl posted:

I was going to 3d-print the cam tool, buuuut I'll have to take off the gears to replace the seals anyway so that's annoying. So I guess I'll have to get the giant wrenches instead.

Yes you have to take off the gears, but that's the point of the tool. The cam gears are keyed so that they can only go on in three possible orientations 120 degrees apart. Once the gears are off, one camshaft will rotate slightly if not held in place with the wrench trick, because it has slight pressure from the valve springs. By locking the gears in position relative to each other, during reinstallation you just have to rotate that shaft a few degrees for the keyway to line up and then the gears go back on with correct spacing between teeth on your timing belt, which makes it much easier to get everything put back. Caveat: this is all true for non vvt motors, I'm not sure if the vvt cam changes this.

Cat Hatter
Oct 24, 2006

Hatters gonna hat.
I remember being really worried about something slipping and not being able to get everything clocked correctly afterwards, but a stock Miata engine is really hard to screw up. When I go to do it next time I might not even bother with the wrenches. Yank the old belt off. Throw the new one on. If it's in the wrong spot, move it. If only one cam gear is right, zip tie the belt to the gear and fix the other one.

Wibla
Feb 16, 2011

I don't have VVT so I just 3d-printed a handy tool to hold the gears, seemed like the easiest thing to do, in case I have to take the timing belt off.

That said I'm not sure my 10AE will survive the next inspection, which is in a few days :ohdear:

Viper915
Sep 18, 2005
Pokey Little Puppy

Cat Hatter posted:

I remember being really worried about something slipping and not being able to get everything clocked correctly afterwards, but a stock Miata engine is really hard to screw up. When I go to do it next time I might not even bother with the wrenches. Yank the old belt off. Throw the new one on. If it's in the wrong spot, move it. If only one cam gear is right, zip tie the belt to the gear and fix the other one.

I really like my ninja tool but this is also basically true. When I did my head gasket a couple years ago I had to strip the head completely and it was pretty simple getting it back together even starting from scratch. If this is your first time, the tool will give you the confidence to understand it enough that afterwards it's just a convenience item. Now I just need to patch my rocker panels and get new tires to pass inspection on my 96. Anyone get recs for tires that fit stock 14" NA wheels? Star specs have gotten pricey.

mobby_6kl
Aug 9, 2009

by Fluffdaddy
I'll definitely print the cam tool just to have it available even though I'll have to take the gears off anyway. Having a non-interference engine really takes a lot of the stress out of this, worst case is what, I have to spend another day taking it all apart again??

Wibla posted:

I don't have VVT so I just 3d-printed a handy tool to hold the gears, seemed like the easiest thing to do, in case I have to take the timing belt off.

That said I'm not sure my 10AE will survive the next inspection, which is in a few days :ohdear:
I'm sure it will pass! Especially if you give the tech some encouragement ;) It cost me a bit extra because the flaky license plate light went off just before the inspection (the connector is corroded) and there's something weird going on with headlight level adjuster. Overall it was fine though, probably because I had the major rust issues on the frame rails fixed. Otherwise he'd be able to poke a hole through it and definitely fail me.

Cat Hatter
Oct 24, 2006

Hatters gonna hat.

mobby_6kl posted:

I'll definitely print the cam tool just to have it available even though I'll have to take the gears off anyway. Having a non-interference engine really takes a lot of the stress out of this, worst case is what, I have to spend another day taking it all apart again??

Pretty much, and that's if you don't even bother checking if you did it right. Procedure is to turn the engine over by hand and see if the timing marks all line up. If they do, great! If not, pull the belt off that gear and use a wrench to rotate the cam, put it back together and check again.

Holding the cams in place makes everything a little easier but the biggest advantage is that it makes a seemingly daunting task into a reasonably easy task so you can find out the magic was inside you all along, or however that story goes.

Olympic Mathlete
Feb 25, 2011

:h:


I treated myself to the cam locking tool which is very good aside from the fact the nuts, bolts and washers that hold the 2 plates together could potentially be dropped into the head if you're not careful. :v:

https://www.jassperformance.com/shop/mazda-mx5/Tools/camshaft%20locking%20tool

Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006

This reminds me of the time I went to change out the water pump and TB on my '97 only to find the PO used about ten gallons of coolant stop leak instead of swapping out the radiator which would have fixed the problem. The poo poo was caked everywhere inside the engine and would have been impossible to clean it all out, I have never seen any like it before or since. I had pics of it but I can't seem to find them, they are probably in this thread somewhere I'm sure.

The car never overheated or anything but I was so pissed over that and people constantly backing into it at work that I just got rid of it, and that was my last Miata :(

PROLE ART THREAT
Sep 10, 2003
I'm looking to buy a roadster after having owned an NB over 5 years ago, and came across a bare NA that's got a lot of miles but seems like its been restored and had a 1.6l engine replacement. And its blue.

https://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto/d/pleasanton-1992-mazda-miata/7642008855.html

Is this worth checking out? I am looking at an NA/NC at around 10k-12k. In the Bay Area, it is tough finding one at that price. I want to be able to work on one but I don't have a garage at the moment. And I don't think that this will need any work for some time.

tater_salad
Sep 15, 2007


That looks nice and clean. The 92 did have ac and PS from the factory no? My 92 blue na def has these (ac is inop as it's leaked out it 30 year old seals ages.ago) . 9400 is probably pretty on the money for it. Maybe like 8500 but it all depends if it's super duper clean no rust etc.

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Cat Hatter
Oct 24, 2006

Hatters gonna hat.
AC and power steering were probably options. I've seen people remove them for PuRiTy weight saving reasons too.

Personally, I'd want a 1.8 and AC but they're not required by any means.

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