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Torquemada posted:a 2012 Ford Transit DPF getting blocked Your use case is terrible for diesel powered vehicles, it might be injectors causing issues but I would try giving it the equivalent of an Italian tune up, go for a weekly long highway drive (25km - 50km+) and let it get nice and up to temp. It should automatically do regens when it's fully up to temp and traveling at higher speed. If you're still getting issues, and the injector diag is confirmed by another shop, then yeah reman injectors should be fine for a vehicle you're wanting to get rid of anyway.
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Jul 10, 2023 19:58
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Ok I have been looking at the 4.5L "blower bentley" made ~1929-1931 of which mr. bugatti once said it was "the world's fastest lorry". It does appear to have a grossly overbuilt chassis. Trying to understand why the chassis was so overbuilt The wikipedia article for the non-supercharged version says "The robustness of the 4½ Litre's lattice chassis, made of steel and reinforced with ties, was needed to support the heavy cast iron inline-four engine." Other research indicates the supercharged (blower) version of the 4.5L engine was aluminum crankcase, cast iron cylinder block and... unsure about the head. Pistons were aluminum from aircraft technology, apparently. Supercharger may have been cast from magnesium although looks aluminum to me in most photos Anyways, yes I would imagine a 4.5L cast iron engine to be in the ~800-1000lb range for that era, but the cars were made with lightweight bodies, often of wood with special fabric to save weight Anwyays TL;DR a car with a ~800 lb engine, lightweight body, spoke tires, how did bentley manage to make a #3800 car when bugatti was building 3.0L cars at less than half the weight (#1500 lbs) with a bunch of copy-cats following his lead. WO Bentley and E. Bugatti saw eachother pretty regularly on the race circuit and Bently wasn't stupid, why build such overbuilt frames? Yes Bentley also used their chassis for larger limousine style cars but in the volumes they were working with (hundreds to thousands of cars) they were probably purpose building the chassis for the engine/end result, could have easily used several gauges lighter steel for the race car. Like everything else on google everyone is just copy-pasta-ing back and forth and the only authoritative book on the subject is $250 and in limited print by a lady named Claire Jay which can't be bought used.      
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Jul 10, 2023 21:14
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Hadlock posted:Ok I have been looking at the 4.5L "blower bentley" made ~1929-1931 of which mr. bugatti once said it was "the world's fastest lorry". It does appear to have a grossly overbuilt chassis. Trying to understand why the chassis was so overbuilt The Bentley 3 liter was a luxury car chassis designed to be sent to a coachbuilder who would put whatever body the buyer wanted on it. Overbuilt wasn't going to break or creak or flex or fail. 172 inches long, 130 in WB, 68 in wide, 63 in tall vs. 144 inches long, 94 in WB, 52 in wide, 41 in tall The Bugatti Type 35 was a racing car designed to go racing. It's hard to understate how much more huge (and therefore heavier) the Bentley was than the Bugatti. e: Compare the Bentley to a similar car, the Rolls-Royce 20 - 3.1 liter engine, 178 inches long, 129 in wheelbase, 4255 pounds. joat mon fucked around with this message at 21:59 on Jul 10, 2023 |
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Jul 10, 2023 21:50
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joat mon posted:The Bugatti Type 35 was a racing car designed to go racing. Agree, however the 4.5L blower bentleys were specifically designed to do (and win) le mans (but failed). The whole blower bently program was run outside of regular operations by an activist-investor (basically, WO Bentley inside the same company independently produced the 6 liter engine and bankrupted the company as an alternative solution to the blown 4.5L engine) The 4.5L blower bentley, I believe, specifically has an oversized ring in the front-most stringer that the supercharger fits through Maybe chassis design was ludicrously expensive? Although bentley also went on to build the speed six on a new chassis which did win le mans at the same race/year, which was also ludicrously heavy And yeah the bugatti is tiny, two people can barely sit in it side by side; the blower bentley actually has a longer wheelbase than a modern bmw 7 series by almost 4 inches Hadlock posted:Yes Bentley also used their chassis for larger limousine style cars but in the volumes they were working with (hundreds to thousands of cars) they were probably purpose building the chassis for the engine/end result, could have easily used several gauges lighter steel for the race car. not convinced that they needed to use the limousine capable chassis to win still back then le mans had a true musalenne (sp?) straight, and top speed really mattered, nowadays there are two or three chicanes in the straight to slow things down; maybe the plan was just to cruise along at 130mph+ with that enormous blown engine, and make up all the time lost slowing down and turning in the rest of the race? drat the weight we'll make it up in the straight? Hadlock fucked around with this message at 22:40 on Jul 10, 2023 |
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Jul 10, 2023 22:37
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My SVX has an aftermarket dual fan aluminum radiator. One of the fan's housings has cracked. When ordering a new fan do I size it based on the diameter of the round part of the housing, or flange to flange?
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Jul 11, 2023 01:53
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1988 Corvette 5.8 auto I abruptly had a crank-no start condition last week. Drove to work no problem, no start at the end of the day. Cranks strong, feel like fuel starvation. Work is a shop, so had the techs check and there was fuel pressure with key on, but drops immediately under load. They checked the filter and lines, and recommended a fuel pump. I replaced the pump, and it started first try. It ran perfectly for about 5 minutes, then started to surge. Felt like it was dropping rpm, then would get a boost. I understand this model has some kind of stall saver, but not sure how it works. After a bit of this it died and won’t restart. It sat for a day, then needed to be moved and started first try and drove a short distance. Then wouldn’t restart again. What are common fuel delivery issues, and what do I check first here?
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Jul 11, 2023 13:19
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Howdy, AI Friends. I've got a quick question, because I don't know poo poo about brands. With it being Prime Day in Amazon, a shitload of battery jump packs are on sale. But I've got no loving clue which of these are real brands, and which are junk. Do any of these stand out as good deals from a brand that won't sell me a lithium firebomb? https://www.amazon.com/s?keywords=J...N%2By7HffuMYd0s
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Jul 11, 2023 13:57
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mr.belowaverage posted:1988 Corvette 5.8 auto I’d check/replace your fuel filter. Particulate choking off a new pump and your ECU asking for more fuel, then forcing a bunch through and your ECU cuts pump production.
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Jul 11, 2023 16:40
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Captain Log posted:Howdy, AI Friends. Get one made by Noco.
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Jul 11, 2023 17:04
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2003 E39 I6. So yesterday I was thinking that I'd go and wash the car, and went through a machine wash. When it was done and I was about to leave the car ran like poo poo and died. In hindsight I did notice that the brake sounded like it was gurgling and was hard to get to release. The car wouldn't start again (tried to turn but stopped after one "chug"). I was afraid that it somehow had gotten water through the intake (though it was shut off during the wash) so I checked the air filter and tubing. Bone dry. Had to call for a tow, and the guy tried starting it. By then it was turning and finally caught and ran for a bit. It was missing some and finally died (which in hindsight might have been when touching the brake). Got it towed home and we tried again, and pretty much same thing. Tons of white smoke. After thinking about it and then googling I've found the problem. I didn't know that E39's had a tendency to have a blocked drain where the brake booster is, so it sucks in water which then goes into the engine and yeah. I don't have any tools here, but could get to where the brake booster is and sure enough it was filled with water. Cleared the clogging and it's now drained. I haven't tried to start the car again since yesterday, but felt the brake pedal which now feels and sounds normal. There is also some minor cream colored residue on the oil cap, so I'm guess the car had water in the cylinder(s) which then with time has drained past the piston rings. So yeah, I really hope it runs poo poo because it was still sucking in some water which made it miss and that it wasn't properly hydrolocked and now is hosed. Even more poo poo is that there aren't any 3L engines for sale now so I can't upgrade neither if I need a new engine. Unless it's a terrible idea, I'm thinking I'll leave it til at least tomorrow before trying to start the car again. Any potential damage would have already been inflicted, right? Either that or I'll have to get my tools and check with borescope and compression test it. Any bets on how bad it's gonna be? Turned out to be an expensive car wash, but the car looked nice at least... 
MrOnBicycle fucked around with this message at 17:20 on Jul 11, 2023 |
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Jul 11, 2023 17:16
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no lube so what posted:if you are trying to do it on the cheap, you could try to test/clean yourself. They're diesel injectors, this isn't going to be the same (and any sort of in-place testing needs to be done very carefully because diesel injectors operate at pressures high enough to cause injection injuries). Agreed with Bajaha that part of this is you need to get that thing working under load, the DPF needs heat to burn off the soot.
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Jul 11, 2023 17:53
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I have done that several times in the last few years, I have also had the mechanic static regenerate it a couple of times. The gap between it showing 0 particulates and it running like crap is too short to be explained by soot buildup, hence the injector question.
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Jul 11, 2023 18:34
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It could also be air management side. Do not and I repeat do not diy gently caress with diesel injectors unless you wanna die a painful miserable death.
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Jul 11, 2023 20:52
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Howdy. I don't know poo poo about cars. If you were to need a reliable, relatively inexpensive used car for infrequent short trips, what year/makes would you likely start looking at?
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Jul 11, 2023 21:21
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Oldstench posted:Howdy. I don't know poo poo about cars. If you were to need a reliable, relatively inexpensive used car for infrequent short trips, what year/makes would you likely start looking at? Please enjoy your Toyota Prius and consult this thread: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3213538
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Jul 11, 2023 21:30
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Inner Light posted:Please enjoy your Toyota Prius and consult this thread: https://forums.somethingawful.com/showthread.php?threadid=3213538 Thank you - sorry for putting this in the wrong thread.
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Jul 11, 2023 21:32
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Oldstench posted:Thank you - sorry for putting this in the wrong thread. Oh no worries and did not intend to imply this was the wrong thread per se at all. If any questions during the search feel free to use here as well I’d say. It’s a big purchase.
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Jul 11, 2023 22:17
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MrOnBicycle posted:Unless it's a terrible idea, I'm thinking I'll leave it til at least tomorrow before trying to start the car again. Any potential damage would have already been inflicted, right? Either that or I'll have to get my tools and check with borescope and compression test it. Any bets on how bad it's gonna be? Don't just let it sit and hope water drains out, pull the plugs and crank it over, it'll shoot it out.
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Jul 11, 2023 22:46
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MrOnBicycle posted:2003 E39 I6. I don't know anything about cars, but it seems like turning a car off right before a car wash and then turning it on, especially if the car is older and may have slight water seal leaks, may contribute here. Cars can run in rain so I think everybody leaves them on in an auto wash. The odds are on your side of no lasting damage from it, let's hope and not your fault of course. Air intake setups should be designed to handle the water output that a properly functioning medium duty car wash is putting out, unless water is improperly getting shot at high speed in the wrong places or just bad luck I'd think. Inner Light fucked around with this message at 23:27 on Jul 11, 2023 |
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Jul 11, 2023 23:24
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IOwnCalculus posted:They're diesel injectors, this isn't going to be the same (and any sort of in-place testing needs to be done very carefully because diesel injectors operate at pressures high enough to cause injection injuries). more you know, thanks for calling out my bad advice
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Jul 12, 2023 00:49
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LloydDobler posted:Don't just let it sit and hope water drains out, pull the plugs and crank it over, it'll shoot it out. Inner Light posted:I don't know anything about cars, but it seems like turning a car off right before a car wash and then turning it on, especially if the car is older and may have slight water seal leaks, may contribute here. Cars can run in rain so I think everybody leaves them on in an auto wash. The odds are on your side of no lasting damage from it, let's hope and not your fault of course. Air intake setups should be designed to handle the water output that a properly functioning medium duty car wash is putting out, unless water is improperly getting shot at high speed in the wrong places or just bad luck I'd think. Thanks! I don't think there is any water in the cylinders right now, but that it was sucking in water vIa the brake booster vacuum. The problem area around the brake booster part has been drained, but the brake booster itself might still have water in it. Almost half of it was submerged when I unclogged the drain lol. Annoyingly I forgot my small tool kit at the other place, and all the spark plug tools are there as well. Lesson for the future is to have basic car tools here as well.
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Jul 12, 2023 06:27
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cursedshitbox posted:It could also be air management side. I'm 52, and enjoying that phase of life where I know what I don't know. I was absolutely not going to gently caress with them.
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Jul 12, 2023 07:18
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cursedshitbox posted:It could also be air management side. Is this just newbie advice to steer him off from too advanced stuff, or does nobody work on diesel injectors in their home shops and leave it to the pros? It's just too dangerous to even consider?
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Jul 12, 2023 13:30
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His Divine Shadow posted:Is this just newbie advice to steer him off from too advanced stuff, or does nobody work on diesel injectors in their home shops and leave it to the pros? It's just too dangerous to even consider? It's legit dangerous. The amount of pressure means any residual fuel could inject itself into you if you handle them wrong and then you die of fuel toxicity. It's a special equipment and handling absolutely required.
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Jul 12, 2023 14:20
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Great, I'm so ignorant about this stuff I now think you're all doing a bit, and can't tell what's real anymore. "Make sure you ask the mechanic if he's going to use a glass hammer and rubber nails to avoid sparks".
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Jul 12, 2023 14:29
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Diesel injectors are 1800-2500 bar if not more. That's a lot of pressure.
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Jul 12, 2023 14:31
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Holy poo poo that much? My espresso machine has a nice sedate 9 bars.
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Jul 12, 2023 14:42
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It's not a bit.
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Jul 12, 2023 14:57
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This is the ejector return on my fuel pump assembly(2001 saab). This prevented fuel from falling out of the plastic canister when I first pulled it. Some things popped apart and after I put it back together it allowed fuel to pour right out. Is something missing in here? Do I need to seal around the nipple that goes in there? Edit: nope nothing goes in there Isaac Asimov fucked around with this message at 17:48 on Jul 13, 2023 |
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Jul 12, 2023 15:23
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Torquemada posted:Holy poo poo that much? My espresso machine has a nice sedate 9 bars. Yes, as of 20 years ago. Now probably higher.
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Jul 12, 2023 15:53
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My sister's car (2005 volvo V70) broke after 2 hours of highway driving, warning messages about electrical system service and battery idiot light, apparently no battery charging from what I was told over the phone at the time, wouldn't start after being shut off. Belt is fine. The car started OK with a different battery, no warning lights, and was driven onto bro's trailer and then hauled to his garage where it sits now. Bro tested alternator output which reads fine with a multimeter. The old battery takes and holds charge. Question: is it likely that the alternator is the prime culprit, but that it only stops working when it's heat soaked? Or is it just a matter of replacing just the battery and that's all there is to it? I don't want this to happen to sis again two hours from home with the car full of kids. I've never seen a a battery fail in this way, and where I live my batteries always show their shortcomings in the winter when it's cold. The battery was six years old, which is about par for battery life in gasoline cars in this climate. On this particular car the battery lives in the trunk so it's not like it got hot by engine proximity or anything like that causing it to poo poo the bed for that reason.
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Jul 12, 2023 17:23
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Modern cars require the presence of a functioning battery to soak up spikes in electrical demand, even with a fully functioning alternator.Torquemada posted:Holy poo poo that much? My espresso machine has a nice sedate 9 bars. Direct injection gasoline vehicles also deal with similar pressures and have similar hazards when working with the high-pressure side of the fuel system.
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Jul 12, 2023 17:33
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MetaJew posted:That is one interpretation, here is another: Those are the worst Ferrari wheels I’ve ever seen they look like the wheels on my wife’s accord. E:  
bird with big dick fucked around with this message at 17:47 on Jul 12, 2023 |
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Jul 12, 2023 17:42
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IOwnCalculus posted:Modern cars require the presence of a functioning battery to soak up spikes in electrical demand, even with a fully functioning alternator. I'm pretty sure they're well below that, more on the 100 bar range. Maybe a bit more. But certainly not anywhere close to diesels.
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Jul 13, 2023 05:17
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totalnewbie posted:I'm pretty sure they're well below that, more on the 100 bar range. Maybe a bit more. But certainly not anywhere close to diesels. Whoops, you're right, but still well into "this can give you hydraulic injury" territory.
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Jul 13, 2023 07:21
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For some hard numbers, my Fiesta with its 1.6L Ecoboost gasoline direct injected motor runs the high pressure fuel rail at around 2500 PSI (~170 bar) where the pump used on a F-250 with the 6.7L Powerstroke diesel of the same model year is capable of 30,000 PSI (~2000 bar). According to one site I read through while finding the diesel pressure information the injectors don't even work below 5000 PSI.
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Jul 13, 2023 14:39
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wolrah posted:For some hard numbers, my Fiesta with its 1.6L Ecoboost gasoline direct injected motor runs the high pressure fuel rail at around 2500 PSI (~170 bar) where the pump used on a F-250 with the 6.7L Powerstroke diesel of the same model year is capable of 30,000 PSI (~2000 bar). According to one site I read through while finding the diesel pressure information the injectors don't even work below 5000 PSI. Exactly that. The CP4 predecessor was good for 26k-psi nominally. Even the really old poo poo like the idi needs around 1400psi for the injectors to pop and around 1700psi nominally. That's more than enough to have a bad day.
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Jul 13, 2023 15:11
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So people don't work on these parts of diesels in a home shop environment at all?
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Jul 13, 2023 15:28
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I'm a professional poo poo fucker upper and I do not screw with the business end of diesel injectors when not mounted to an engine outside of popping new cups on. I have the ability to build the tooling to do bench run and mayyyybe rebuild injectors, but for the price of injectors? That's someone else' problem. loving up here costs an engine* at the minimum and at maximum, the technician. *getting a rebuild wrong can burn holes in pistons and break cranks.
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Jul 13, 2023 15:57
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Just a quick update and note to E39 owners. Clear out the drains under the brake booster! I got the vacuum hose off and used a catheter and syringe to evacuate the rain water that I suspected was in the booster. There was about 900ml of rain water in it. The brakes started working like they used to (only did a quick back and forth in the parking space since it started to pour down rain), and the engine sounds fine and with no apparent misfires. I think it should be fine, but I'll have to do a short test drive after I get new hose clamps for the booster vacuum line.
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Jul 13, 2023 16:56
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