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Dreylad
Jun 19, 2001
There's also plastic putty that's kind of an inbetween sprue goo and two-part epoxies.

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Z the IVth
Jan 28, 2009

The trouble with your "expendable machines"
Fun Shoe
My go to has been a mixture of superglue and talcum powder mixed into a paste. It doesn't take forever to dry, is adhesive and once fully cured it goes rock hard. You can cut it when it's just gone hard for a few hours but after 24hrs it's fully hard and has to be sanded.

Al-Saqr
Nov 11, 2007

One Day I Will Return To Your Side.
hey guys, I dont live anywhere that has 'simple green' in it but I think I found a similar green product in the stores, can people tell me if these ingredients is the same as Simple green so I can use it to remove primer?

tangy yet delightful
Sep 13, 2005



Al-Saqr posted:

hey guys, I dont live anywhere that has 'simple green' in it but I think I found a similar green product in the stores, can people tell me if these ingredients is the same as Simple green so I can use it to remove primer?



https://simplegreen.com/ingredient-disclosure/ looking up Simple Green All-Purpose Cleaner yields me this list which I've screenshotted and attached in case you are domain blocked or what have you.

So my opinion? No idea how these products match up, perhaps try a single test model or painted sprue piece to see what happens?

Only registered members can see post attachments!

Cthulu Carl
Apr 16, 2006

Al-Saqr posted:

hey guys, I dont live anywhere that has 'simple green' in it but I think I found a similar green product in the stores, can people tell me if these ingredients is the same as Simple green so I can use it to remove primer?



Here's Simple Green All-Purpose Cleaner's ingredient list:

code:
Water	 
Sodium Citrate
Surfactant
C9-11 Alcohols Ethoxylated	 
Sodium Carbonate
Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate
Citric Acid
Blend of Polyoxyalkylene Substituted Chromophores (Cyan and Yellow)
Fragrances
Anethole
Eucalyptol 
Methylchloroisothiazolinone, Methylisothiazolinon
Table with purpose of each ingredient:


EDIT: Beaten on the ingredients.

Cthulu Carl fucked around with this message at 20:33 on Jul 14, 2023

Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

La! La! La! Laaaa!



College Slice

IncredibleIgloo posted:

I am very, very surprised today that my order from Chapter Customizer, that I made in May of 2022, is now shipping.

They must wait for some number of orders to arrive before they ship, because I ordered two weeks ago and got it this past Monday.

Southern Heel
Jul 2, 2004

I was planning on adding foliage to the bases of my Tyranids, but I think the limited pallet is working to my advantage at the moment.

I’m pretty much calling these done-the hierophant at this point is just a display piece and won’t form part of a gaming army list.



PoptartsNinja
May 9, 2008

He is still almost definitely not a spy


Soiled Meat
If it helps, normal foliage doesn't look great at 6mm scale. You can pull off little bushes and things with shredded foam, but static grass tufts and the like really kill the scale and make figures look like toys (unless you have other things to help sell the grass tufts as actually being really huge).

I think you've hit a nice balance with your colors. A little sprinkle of some green flock here and there wouldn't be amiss but would also be pretty skippable.

Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011

Al-Saqr posted:

hey guys, I dont live anywhere that has 'simple green' in it but I think I found a similar green product in the stores, can people tell me if these ingredients is the same as Simple green so I can use it to remove primer?

Use isopropyl alcohol, 90% or 99%. It's always the same thing and works great.

WorldIndustries
Dec 21, 2004

Yeah iso is my favorite way to go, I hate the smell of simple green and it seems to linger around a long time.

Sydney Bottocks
Oct 15, 2004
Probation
Can't post for 19 days!
Thirding the use of isopropyl alcohol, it works pretty much instantaneously to strip paint off of minis (unless the paint on the mini is years old, or covered in several layers of varnish, then it does need a good soak).

stackofflapjacks
Apr 7, 2009

Mmmmm

Cease to Hope posted:

Use isopropyl alcohol, 90% or 99%. It's always the same thing and works great.

Yea cheap and universal

Geisladisk
Sep 15, 2007

If you live somewhere like me, where iso is hard to find except in specialist shops for some reason, methylated spirits work just as well.

Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011
If you can't find isopropyl or you like using actual scalpels over hobby knives for some reason, medical supply stores or surgical pharmacies will always have both.

Also make sure to get nitrile or latex gloves if you're going to be handling models in isopropyl at all. It's not dangerous but it will irritate your skin.

SuperKlaus
Oct 20, 2005


Fun Shoe
I have some brown backpacks on my dudes I think I'd like to mottle with green to give a camo effect. Thinking maybe I do this by applying the paint with a Q Tip? Or is that just gonna get fibers all over the model?

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN

SuperKlaus posted:

I have some brown backpacks on my dudes I think I'd like to mottle with green to give a camo effect. Thinking maybe I do this by applying the paint with a Q Tip? Or is that just gonna get fibers all over the model?

https://www.amazon.com/Eyeshadow-Ap...ps%2C117&sr=8-5

Mr Teatime
Apr 7, 2009

Al-Saqr posted:

hey guys, I dont live anywhere that has 'simple green' in it but I think I found a similar green product in the stores, can people tell me if these ingredients is the same as Simple green so I can use it to remove primer?



If that has isopropyl alcohol in it you might as well just buy pure iso. The reason you wouldn’t want to use iso is that it murders resin dead, plastic is fine.

IncredibleIgloo
Feb 17, 2011





Is iso bad for commercially produced resin models? I can't see it being bad for 3d printed ones. I have fished out parts I thought I lost in my wash station that had been floating around for weeks and they didn't seem any worse for the wear?

kzin602
May 14, 2007




Grimey Drawer

Al-Saqr posted:

hey guys, I dont live anywhere that has 'simple green' in it but I think I found a similar green product in the stores, can people tell me if these ingredients is the same as Simple green so I can use it to remove primer?



Simple green is a general purpose cleaner and degreaser, I have also used a product called 'La's totally awesome' to similar effect. If you have a general purpose kitchen cleaner/crease cutter in your locale it should work.

Mr Teatime
Apr 7, 2009

IncredibleIgloo posted:

Is iso bad for commercially produced resin models? I can't see it being bad for 3d printed ones. I have fished out parts I thought I lost in my wash station that had been floating around for weeks and they didn't seem any worse for the wear?

It turns forgeworld into flubber.

Assessor of Maat
Nov 20, 2019

IncredibleIgloo posted:

Is iso bad for commercially produced resin models? I can't see it being bad for 3d printed ones. I have fished out parts I thought I lost in my wash station that had been floating around for weeks and they didn't seem any worse for the wear?

the kind(s) of two part resin used for miniatures from a mould and UV sensitive 3D printer resin are very different materials, and isopropyl will happily turn the former into a puddle of slime

IncredibleIgloo
Feb 17, 2011





Good to know. I limit my experience with Finecast and Forgeworld because the quality was very, very poor.

Spanish Manlove
Aug 31, 2008

HAILGAYSATAN

IncredibleIgloo posted:

Good to know. I limit my experience with Finecast and Forgeworld because the quality was very, very poor.

Good. They're garbage

Mr Teatime
Apr 7, 2009

Spanish Manlove posted:

Good. They're garbage



Forgeworld is good actually.

Harvey Mantaco
Mar 6, 2007

Someone please help me find my keys =(
Worst models to paint and build and pay for


... so cool though

Virtual Russian
Sep 15, 2008

Mr Teatime posted:



Forgeworld is good actually.

Having just this month dipped a toe: The quality of the casting is honestly just on par with garage casting operations, nothing terrible, but nothing more than adequate. The designs are excellent though, still better than 90% of STL proxies out there. You are paying for the design, not the casting.

a fatguy baldspot
Aug 29, 2018

Probably not kosher to link it but there’s a site that has forgeworld quality stuff (like the exact same sculpts) for something insane like 25% of the price. China is the future my friends, just an absolutely amazing country in many ways.

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007

Mr Teatime posted:



Forgeworld is good actually.

it might be good but since finecast is so bad forgeworld must also be bad

Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011

a fatguy baldspot posted:

Probably not kosher to link it but there’s a site that has forgeworld quality stuff (like the exact same sculpts) for something insane like 25% of the price. China is the future my friends, just an absolutely amazing country in many ways.

at my war table, games occasionally have a recast or proxy or two. am i thinking of the same site you are?

Mr Teatime
Apr 7, 2009

Whatever you think about recasts, I’ve bought enough myself to get out of production stuff, I would say that people are awfully evangelical about it while neglecting to mention the miss rates involved. Maybe there’s a super secret recasting source that delivers perfection but you’re likely to wait a long time for delivery and end up with a mix of good and borderline unusable casts. Frankly I’d rather just deal with forgeworld unless there’s literally no other way to acquire things, looking at you mkii armour.

My Spirit Otter
Jun 15, 2006


CANADA DOESN'T GET PENS LIKE THIS

SKILCRAFT KREW Reppin' Quality Blind Made American Products. Bitch.
i just picked up an iawata starter set, whats a good primer? i had bad luck with army painter so im wondering thread favs.

WorldIndustries
Dec 21, 2004

My Spirit Otter posted:

i just picked up an iawata starter set, whats a good primer? i had bad luck with army painter so im wondering thread favs.

I still think Badger black stynlrez primer (not other colors) is my favorite. It flows really well, goes on smooth, and dries fast. I've tried various vallejo primers, both standard and mecha lines and none of them are quite as good.

I usually prime black and then if I want a lighter undertone do a fast zenithal with white.

Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011

My Spirit Otter posted:

i just picked up an iawata starter set, whats a good primer? i had bad luck with army painter so im wondering thread favs.

vallejo surface primer, $15 or less for a 200ml bottle. somehow, probably the best primer around is also one of the cheapest. they have a whole range but you really only need grey and black.

IncredibleIgloo
Feb 17, 2011





Mr Teatime posted:

Whatever you think about recasts, I’ve bought enough myself to get out of production stuff, I would say that people are awfully evangelical about it while neglecting to mention the miss rates involved. Maybe there’s a super secret recasting source that delivers perfection but you’re likely to wait a long time for delivery and end up with a mix of good and borderline unusable casts. Frankly I’d rather just deal with forgeworld unless there’s literally no other way to acquire things, looking at you mkii armour.

I am a pretty big proponent of 3d printing, but don't care for the idea of recasts or direct copies for stls.

Yeast
Dec 25, 2006

$1900 Grande Latte

My Spirit Otter posted:

i just picked up an iawata starter set, whats a good primer? i had bad luck with army painter so im wondering thread favs.

Badger Stynlrez - good coverage, can be a tad on the thin side, affordable.

Vallejo surface primer - great coverage, can be a tad on the thick side, but add a bit of thinner and you’re golden. Smells like choc-banana.

Monument Hobbies Pro Acryl Primer - the best coverage, no thinning required, but takes a few hours to cure to be painted over.

Al-Saqr
Nov 11, 2007

One Day I Will Return To Your Side.
Finished first batch of leviathan termagaunts! would love comments and critiques! the two on the left are the first ones and the two on the right are the later ones:-







Southern Heel
Jul 2, 2004



I added some burnt grass to the bases, I'm not entirely sure if I like it – I wanted to keep the situation low, but I think it has mostly just obscured the texture. Aforementioned hierophant is also there, I did a combination of zenithal and white dry brushing - I'm going to try to do more blending on this: pink to purple, and navy to turquoise. In the end, I just did a Hail Mary with pinning the legs on and it seems to have worked okay.

My Spirit Otter
Jun 15, 2006


CANADA DOESN'T GET PENS LIKE THIS

SKILCRAFT KREW Reppin' Quality Blind Made American Products. Bitch.
thanks for the responses guys, ill have to try all three.

Virtual Russian
Sep 15, 2008

Hey all, lets cool it on the recasts. I'm an artist, sculptor specifically, recasting done in China and elsewhere, but especially China, is insanely damaging to so many people. I've known too many artists and makers that were ruined because their stuff was getting recast and sold cheaper from China. Artists put in a ton of work in speculating that their initial investment of time and resources will pay off over time, when someone recasts that work they stole all that time and labour the artist put in. I know no one is going to shed a tear for GW, but it isn't ethical to support the recasting network. People contort themselves into logical pretzels over this, but at the end of the day buying recasts is unethical.*

Recasters produce nothing of value, they steal money off the table of the hardworking artists/designers/makers. The more you feed this system the less people will be willing to take the risk of making original work. Saving a bit of money isn't worth damaging the health of the hobby.



*My only caveat would be out of production stuff is ok, but even then I want to know my source. A guy recasting OOP minis from the 80s in his garage is not the same as the factory operation overseas that recasts anything they get their hands on.

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Virtual Russian
Sep 15, 2008

Southern Heel posted:



I added some burnt grass to the bases, I'm not entirely sure if I like it – I wanted to keep the situation low, but I think it has mostly just obscured the texture. Aforementioned hierophant is also there, I did a combination of zenithal and white dry brushing - I'm going to try to do more blending on this: pink to purple, and navy to turquoise. In the end, I just did a Hail Mary with pinning the legs on and it seems to have worked okay.

WOW! They got even better.

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