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Lord Stimperor posted:Beeswax worked! Unfortunately I woke my wife rattling all the drawers. What's the fix for that? Wax again, you just gotta heat it up and play some Barry White
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Jul 18, 2023 01:00
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Skunkduster posted:Sometimes, I will find pieces of manufactured wood used as packing material. It is extremely flat and dense like MDF, but uses a much finer sawdust for a very smooth surface. Anybody know what the name of this "wood" is?
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Jul 18, 2023 01:39
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If anyone has been on the fence about getting a really expensive Tormek T-8, there's a 50th anniversary edition one coming out now ish, comes with a 50 year warranty. Seems neat if you were gonna get one soonish anyway.
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Jul 19, 2023 02:13
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Just how bad are the blades that come with tools anyway? I have DeWalt table and miter saws, and a Milwaukee circular, and just use the blades they came with. I’ve done a decent amount of ripping on the table saw, normal usage of the miter, and barely use the circular. Is it worth replacing them with CMT or Diablo blades if I’m thoroughly a hobbyist? What am I potentially losing with the stock blades?
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Jul 19, 2023 04:29
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For woodworking you want to replace the table saw blade with at least two blades (one for cross one for ripping and MAAAAYBE one for sheet goods) because they come with blades that are, at best, mediocre at everything. If you only get one try to go for a "glue line" rip blade which tend to be decent at cross cutting unless you're sure you'll be mostly dealing with sheet goods in which case it's a toss up as to what you want. E to add: combination blades exist but tend to be decent at the different cuts at best. I guess that makes them an option to start with. deimos fucked around with this message at 06:06 on Jul 19, 2023 |
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Jul 19, 2023 06:03
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For sure you want a different blade for plywood and other sheet goods. They have a ton of glue in them, which wrecks regular blades very quickly. But yeah, I'd also expect the blades that come with any consumer-grade tool to be pretty crappy. And using bad blades is always a frustrating experience.
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Jul 19, 2023 11:54
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Good blades can be resharpened which is very economical. I have a Forest Woodworker II which is pretty great for finish cuts on thicknesses up to 1.5“, getting it resharpened cost about $40 and it's far better than any $40 blade I've ever tried.
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Jul 19, 2023 13:02
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Schiavona posted:Just how bad are the blades that come with tools anyway? I have DeWalt table and miter saws, and a Milwaukee circular, and just use the blades they came with. I’ve done a decent amount of ripping on the table saw, normal usage of the miter, and barely use the circular. If you rip a lot of solid lumber, absolutely get a rip blade. And if you cut a lot of sheet goods, a decent crosscut blade will make much nicer cuts. Occasionally if I’m swapping back and forth between crosscuts and rips I’ll put a combination blade in, but it really is just okay at both tasks and not great at either.
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Jul 19, 2023 13:11
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yeah I think youd see more gains by going for more specialized blades than just swapping a DeWalt for the Diablo equivalent going from the stock Milwaukee miter saw blade to a Freud 80 tooth was a very noticeable upgrade on the other hand, when I tripped my SawStop and went to replace that stock blade I asked myself "do I REALLY need a dedicated rip blade? surely a very high quality combination blade and taking things a bit slow will be just as good?" so I went with the Forrest all purpose, decided to check out a new hardwood place on the way home, grabbed a piece of 8/4 maple, and proceeded to immediately overheat the motor and burn the maple 
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Jul 19, 2023 14:21
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I see the blades for cutting fiber cement siding only have four teeth on them. What is the logic for having so few teeth?
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Jul 19, 2023 14:26
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Hardiebacker doesn't have (e: as many) fibers to shear and less cutters means less heat concentration is my guess. Also maybe less teeth means bigger chunks (less fine dust) removed but that's just a theory. deimos fucked around with this message at 16:37 on Jul 19, 2023 |
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Jul 19, 2023 16:32
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What grit do you guys sand to for something that's going to be painted? I know you don't want to go too high so the primer can adhere, but how low can you go and get away with?
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Jul 20, 2023 03:30
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120 is gonna show through some paints.
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Jul 20, 2023 03:58
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I would maybe go up to 220 or 180, maybe 220 sander then back down to 180 by hand (going with the grain).
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Jul 20, 2023 06:38
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What's the best way to clean indeterminate gunk off the sole of a plane? Mineral spirits or something? I'm hesitant to use any kind of abrasive that would mess with the flatness.
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Jul 20, 2023 07:31
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Bob Mundon posted:What grit do you guys sand to for something that's going to be painted? I know you don't want to go too high so the primer can adhere, but how low can you go and get away with? revtoiletduck posted:What's the best way to clean indeterminate gunk off the sole of a plane? Mineral spirits or something? I'm hesitant to use any kind of abrasive that would mess with the flatness.
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Jul 20, 2023 12:49
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If using naptha, I'd recommend good ventilation. I was using it for wet sanding many years ago and didn't realize that I was high as the moon until I walked out of the shop and tried to go up a flight of stairs. Once the buzz wore off, I was left with a pounding headache.
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Jul 20, 2023 15:20
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That’s the best part. I had forgotten about wet sanding with naphtha. That’s a great trick that works well.
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Jul 20, 2023 16:59
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Why does cool wood have to cost so much 
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Jul 20, 2023 22:13
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PokeJoe posted:Why does cool wood have to cost so much Everything at that store is Not Cheap. They do carry everything though.
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Jul 20, 2023 22:48
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Bob Mundon posted:What grit do you guys sand to for something that's going to be painted? I know you don't want to go too high so the primer can adhere, but how low can you go and get away with? For paint grade wood, I think 120 is fine. If it shows through both primer and paint, you've got mighty weak paint.
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Jul 21, 2023 04:35
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PokeJoe posted:Why does cool wood have to cost so much Because our grandfathers and their grandfathers gave no fucks about just cutting down whatever. gently caress, they still burn off amazing hardwood in the Brazilian rain forests for farm land.
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Jul 21, 2023 04:37
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Mr. Mambold posted:Because our grandfathers and their grandfathers gave no fucks about just cutting down whatever. gently caress, they still burn off amazing hardwood in the Brazilian rain forests for farm land.
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Jul 21, 2023 08:12
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In addition to that, some trees just don’t get very big, and ziricote is one of those. It gets about the size of a dogwood, so getting much heartwood lumber out of one is a challenge.
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Jul 21, 2023 13:11
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Naphtha is great for this kind of cleaning. Simple green works decently as well. A razor blade makes a great scraper that shouldn’t mess up your surface. Some steel wool or a scotchbrite lubed with WD-40 or naphtha can help too. Thanks for this. I've heard of Naphtha but never would have thought of it on my own. Seems like it might be tricky to get in Canada, so maybe I'll start with a razor blade and WD-40.
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Jul 21, 2023 16:21
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revtoiletduck posted:Thanks for this. I've heard of Naphtha but never would have thought of it on my own. Seems like it might be tricky to get in Canada, so maybe I'll start with a razor blade and WD-40. It absolutely is not https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/coleman-camp-fuel-naphtha-liquid-fuel-for-camping-stoves-lanterns-heaters-3-78-l-0760044p.0760044.html
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Jul 21, 2023 16:27
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revtoiletduck posted:Thanks for this. I've heard of Naphtha but never would have thought of it on my own. Seems like it might be tricky to get in Canada, so maybe I'll start with a razor blade and WD-40. Lighter fluid like for a Zippo or kerosene are both slightly different but very similar to naphtha if they are easier to find. It’s a great degreaser and cleaner, especially for removing wax or other kinds of gunk. E: Like many finishing products, ‘Naphtha’ is a word without a precise, universal meaning and different stuff gets called naphtha by different companies and in different places. When I say naphtha I mean what is usually sold in the US at big box stores as ’VM&P (Varnish Maker’s and Painter’) naphtha’. One time I got some naphtha from Sherwin Williams here and it was completely different-much slower to evaporate. Naphtha is a more aggressive solvent than mineral spirits/paint thinner and it flashes off faster too, and leaves no residue behind, whereas I think mineral spirits can leave a bit of greasy residue. Kerosene is a little usually a little closer to mineral spirits and lighter fluid is closer to what I call naphtha, but both basically work. Mineral spirits will also do 90% of what naphtha will, just more slowly and again I think it leaves a bit of residue. E2:vvv thanks for the clarification. I knew they were all pretty similar-seems like each manufacturer has a slightly different formulation and that may matter more then wether the label says ‘naphtha’ or ‘mineral spirits’ Kaiser Schnitzel fucked around with this message at 16:56 on Jul 21, 2023 |
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Jul 21, 2023 16:28
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Lighter fluid like for a Zippo or kerosene are both slightly different but very similar to naphtha if they are easier to find. It’s a great degreaser and cleaner, especially for removing wax or other kinds of gunk. For these purposes, naptha, mineral spirits, and kerosene are interchangeable. They're all nonpolar organic solvents. Whether they are all straight chain alkanes or have cyclics in there or whether it's more light hydrocarbons or not doesn't matter if you're just using it to clean something in the shop.
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Jul 21, 2023 16:40
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Some ‘it’s fine’ woodworking. Desperately needed some more shop storage, didn’t really know how to build cabinets the right way, so experimented and wound up with babby’s first frameless, almost euro style cabinets:  They’re just banged together with medium crown staples, but seem plenty strong. 4’ is probably too big for a slab door-some curve in the middle due to plywood warpage, so I guess for slab doors like that MDF or Baltic birch or something might be better than Vietnam birch. I’d always heard about the 32mm system for building cabinets but never quite understood what it was, and this lead me to do some research. It seems like a good system I’ll actually try to stick to next time I build some cabinets. This charmingly 1996 website has a some great info: http://davelers.com/32mm/
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Jul 21, 2023 23:52
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The 32 mm system is basically the answer to the interior/kitchen cabinetry part of the "how do we rebuild as quickly & efficiently possible?" question posed by the bombed out pile of rubble that was immediate post-WW2 Germany/Western Europe.
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Jul 22, 2023 00:25
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Just Winging It posted:The 32 mm system is basically the answer to the interior/kitchen cabinetry part of the "how do we rebuild as quickly & efficiently possible?" question posed by the bombed out pile of rubble that was immediate post-WW2 Germany/Western Europe. The consistency is what I like about the system. PDF warning: http://www.cabsystems.com/KISSII/KIIrivDe-mail.pdf That's a good guide as well. deimos fucked around with this message at 01:40 on Jul 22, 2023 |
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Jul 22, 2023 01:36
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Woodworking related question: the hinges in my mom's kitchen cabinets keep coming loose. Metal screw into a wood frame. Tighten them, come back in a few weeks, they're loose again. I'm guessing there's something (glue?) I can put on the screws to get them to stick? Obviously don't want it a permanent glue in case we gotta take them off in the future, just something to give a bit of friction to keep them tight. They're countersunk, so I can't move them up or down to a new location.
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Jul 22, 2023 01:58
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Put some wood glue in the screw hole, pack toothpicks into it, then once the glue dries, drill a new hole for your screw. The hole's been widened by minute movements of the screw (presumably due to movement of the hinge), and it can no longer get a firm hold on the wood. "Refilling" the hole with new wood gives it more to grip on. The other alternative that might be a possibility is to just use a longer screw. People do that all the time with door hinges, which have a similar problem.
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Jul 22, 2023 02:02
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deimos posted:The consistency is what I like about the system.
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Jul 22, 2023 02:06
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TooMuchAbstraction posted:Put some wood glue in the screw hole, pack toothpicks into it, then once the glue dries, drill a new hole for your screw. The hole's been widened by minute movements of the screw (presumably due to movement of the hinge), and it can no longer get a firm hold on the wood. "Refilling" the hole with new wood gives it more to grip on. Well, option 1 sounds like the thing to do, but more work.  Thanks!
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Jul 22, 2023 02:29
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Uthor posted:Well, option 1 sounds like the thing to do, but more work. The best way, as mentioned before, is to plug it and redrill it. Glue and toothpicks is the easiest. Drilling a flat-bottom hole and inserting a matched dowel would be a lot more work, but it would look the cleanest if anybody ever removed your hinges and inspected the handiwork underneath. If you are looking at the cheapest easiest option, try a split washer between the screw and the hinge plate. I'm assuming the screws are flatheat and meant to fit into a recess in the hinge, so it is an ugly fix, but it might work - or it might not. If not, you are out 5 cents per washer and whatever time it takes to remove and reinsert the screws.
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Jul 22, 2023 02:50
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A lock washer won't fit. The hinges are like two layers of metal and the screw has to fit through a thin slot in the top layer before pressing against the lower layer. Definitely looking for a cheap and easy fix. It's an annoyance, but my mom is probably going to move out of here within a year, so I'm not going to put in a lot work into it. Definitely gonna try gluing in some toothpicks. She's baking right now, so I'm not ready to start drilling and filling the room with sawdust.
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Jul 22, 2023 04:11
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Some ‘it’s fine’ woodworking. Desperately needed some more shop storage, didn’t really know how to build cabinets the right way, so experimented and wound up with babby’s first frameless, almost euro style cabinets: I bet they stay straight, and birch plywood weighs far less than mdf. Good thinking leaving a spot for a mini-fridge right under the A.C.
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Jul 22, 2023 23:08
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Kaiser Schnitzel posted:Some ‘it’s fine’ woodworking. Desperately needed some more shop storage, didn’t really know how to build cabinets the right way, so experimented and wound up with babby’s first frameless, almost euro style cabinets: I like em. Are you worried about the AC dripping onto them?
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Jul 24, 2023 14:39
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SouthShoreSamurai posted:I like em.
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Jul 24, 2023 15:12
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