Register a SA Forums Account here!
JOINING THE SA FORUMS WILL REMOVE THIS BIG AD, THE ANNOYING UNDERLINED ADS, AND STUPID INTERSTITIAL ADS!!!

You can: log in, read the tech support FAQ, or request your lost password. This dumb message (and those ads) will appear on every screen until you register! Get rid of this crap by registering your own SA Forums Account and joining roughly 150,000 Goons, for the one-time price of $9.95! We charge money because it costs us money per month for bills, and since we don't believe in showing ads to our users, we try to make the money back through forum registrations.
 
  • Post
  • Reply
VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Ok Comboomer posted:

Dealer wants to charge me $1400 to do the rotors and pads on my FiST. How feasible is it to DIY as somebody whos never done brakes on a car before?

Do you have tools? Are you handy? It's probably $400 in parts to do the job and 2-4 hours. Look up some youtube videos, there is probably one specific to your car. I've never heard of a fist, if they are electric then I have no idea about any of that stuff I mentioned.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

Boaz MacPhereson
Jul 11, 2006

Day 12045 Ht10hands 180lbs
No Name
No lumps No Bumps Full life Clean
Two good eyes No Busted Limbs
Piss OK Genitals intact
Multiple scars Heals fast
O NEGATIVE HI OCTANE
UNIVERSAL DONOR
Lone Road Warrior Rundown
on the Powder Lakes V8
No guzzoline No supplies
ISOLATE PSYCHOTIC
Keep muzzled...

Ok Comboomer posted:

Dealer wants to charge me $1400 to do the rotors and pads on my FiST. How feasible is it to DIY as somebody whos never done brakes on a car before?

Even if you have to buy tools to do the job, you'd still come out miles ahead of $1400.

Brakes can be daunting the first time for someone who's never really dug into them before, but they're kind of the next step up from DIY oil changes. Not a big deal. From what I can see, the Fiestas don't have any crazy Brembo setups or anything so really it's just a regular pad & rotor swap. I won't go into the whole process here, but I'm sure there are good guides and videos online for first timer brake jobs. Probably even one for your car. Obviously we don't know your skill level, but I'd say do a little looking around and see how comfortable you are with what the process looks like.

For tools you may need: jack + jack stands as the wheels are coming off, sockets, ratchets, & wrenches of various flavors, and, knowing Ford, some kind of tool to turn the rear caliper pistons back in. Don't gently caress around with needle nose pliers, don't gently caress around with the cheap "cube" tool, just get one of these and do your future self a favor: https://www.harborfreight.com/disc-brake-pad-and-caliper-service-tool-kit-11-piece-63264.html.

Here's the pad + rotor selection from RockAuto for a 2015 to give you an idea on prices: https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/ford,2015,fiesta,1.6l+l4+turbocharged,3308782,brake+&+wheel+hub,rotor+&+brake+pad+kit,13824. I assume the parts are the same for all years of Party Car, but obviously pick your year to be sure.

We believe in you and are here for all your stupid question needs.

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



Very feasible. Its only four bolts per side (usually, I havent looked on my FiST). Just YouTube a video.

That said, pick up a C clamp or something like it to help compress the piston just to make life easier.

Never pay for brake jobs, theyre super super simple.

wolrah
May 8, 2006
what?
I've done mine twice.

The most annoying part will be cranking in the stupid rear calipers with that loving rotating clamp tool tool. It's the same as a lot of FWD disc setups, something to do with the parking brake AFAIK. You can either buy or rent one, I bought one. Other than that, disc brakes are easy to work on.

If you have a large torque wrench then reinstalling the caliper brackets can be annoying, there's not a lot of clearance.

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!

VelociBacon posted:

I've never heard of a fist

Ford Fiesta ST

Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006

Ok Comboomer posted:

Dealer wants to charge me $1400 to do the rotors and pads on my FiST. How feasible is it to DIY as somebody whos never done brakes on a car before?

Brakes are dead simple, watch a few videos and get the correct tools. Learn how to bleed brakes correctly as well, and depending on mileage it may be time to replace the fluid.

latinotwink1997
Jan 2, 2008

Taste my Ball of Hope, foul dragon!


Is it possible to bleed brakes by yourself? The only time I ever did brakes was with someone more knowledgeable and I had to press the brake while they dealt with loosening/tightening the valve otherwise itd get air in the system. I dont do brakes myself simply because of this limitation.

Twerk from Home
Jan 17, 2009

This avatar brought to you by the 'save our dead gay forums' foundation.
Related dumbass question: are there any cheap oil pumps to make changing oil at home even easier? Modern underbody aero makes getting to the drain plug a pain, and splashes in bad places more likely. I've seen all the quick-change places switch to pumping oil out through the dipstick.

wolrah
May 8, 2006
what?

latinotwink1997 posted:

Is it possible to bleed brakes by yourself? The only time I ever did brakes was with someone more knowledgeable and I had to press the brake while they dealt with loosening/tightening the valve otherwise itd get air in the system. I dont do brakes myself simply because of this limitation.
There are tools that exist specifically to allow you to bleed brakes on your own, but they're not the cheapest things and require some adapters that often differ from vehicle to vehicle so it's usually easier to just get someone else to push the pedal for you.

That said you shouldn't need to bleed anything as part of a normal brake job, only if you're replacing a caliper or something.

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

My dad had me assisting with brake jobs at 8 and by 10 it was one of my chores like mowing the lawn

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



Hadlock posted:

My dad had me assisting with brake jobs at 8 and by 10 it was one of my chores like mowing the lawn

:same:

Nothing like doing drum brakes with a pair of needle nose pliers as a spring puller.

opengl
Sep 16, 2010

latinotwink1997 posted:

Is it possible to bleed brakes by yourself? The only time I ever did brakes was with someone more knowledgeable and I had to press the brake while they dealt with loosening/tightening the valve otherwise itd get air in the system. I dont do brakes myself simply because of this limitation.

Speed bleeders. They replace your bleeders with ones that have a one way valve in them, so you crack them open, pump away, done.

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



latinotwink1997 posted:

Is it possible to bleed brakes by yourself? The only time I ever did brakes was with someone more knowledgeable and I had to press the brake while they dealt with loosening/tightening the valve otherwise itd get air in the system. I dont do brakes myself simply because of this limitation.

This is also currently being discussed in the Tools thread

Safety Dance
Sep 10, 2007

Five degrees to starboard!

Twerk from Home posted:

Related dumbass question: are there any cheap oil pumps to make changing oil at home even easier? Modern underbody aero makes getting to the drain plug a pain, and splashes in bad places more likely. I've seen all the quick-change places switch to pumping oil out through the dipstick.

Yeah, oil extactors can be bought for like $50-$100. They're not recommended for every application though.

Applebees Appetizer
Jan 23, 2006

Twerk from Home posted:

Related dumbass question: are there any cheap oil pumps to make changing oil at home even easier? Modern underbody aero makes getting to the drain plug a pain, and splashes in bad places more likely. I've seen all the quick-change places switch to pumping oil out through the dipstick.

Oil extractors, I had one for our Lexus 460 simply because it held 9 quarts of fuckin oil and came out of the drain plug like Niagara Falls so it was easier and way less messy just sucking it out through the dipstick. You can get them on Amazon relatively cheap.

eddiewalker
Apr 28, 2004

Arrrr ye landlubber
Ive been very happy with the Fumoto drain valves Ive installed on my last few cars. I just stick a length of tube on the valve and drain directly into gallon jugs. Minimal-mess oil changes with fewer tools.

Bilirubin
Feb 16, 2014

The sanctioned action is to CHUG


Applebees Appetizer posted:

Oil extractors, I had one for our Lexus 460 simply because it held 9 quarts of fuckin oil and came out of the drain plug like Niagara Falls so it was easier and way less messy just sucking it out through the dipstick. You can get them on Amazon relatively cheap.

Automotive Insanity > AI Stupid Question Thread - Just sucking it out through the dipstick

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Hadlock posted:

For Honda engines, is the K20A head casting the same between the ~2008 jdm Civic type R (221hp @ 8000rpm, 11.7:1) and ~2008 Honda Accord (153hp @ 6000rpm, 9.8:1)

Like, do they just pull one off the shelf, do a mild port on the type R, then install go fast parts designed to operate at 8400rpm, and the accord gets the same casting from the same run but no porting and economy sedan grade parts that max out at 6800rpm

Apparently not, they are different heads with different flow rates

wesleywillis
Dec 30, 2016

SUCK A MALE CAMEL'S DICK WITH MIRACLE WHIP!!

Hadlock posted:

Apparently not, they are different heads with different flow rates

I have done zero research in to the subject, and am several drinks deep right now, but they could very easily be the same casting. Maybe they aren't, but bigger ports and valves, higher lift and duration from the cams and better valve springs could achieve this.

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

It's hard to say for sure, my guess is that a "normal" head sand casting is a standard three piece casting, but it's possible for high end heads Honda has a five six or seven piece casting :shrug:

If the head difference is just all the bits bolted on that's fine. I think the K20A...2? Head used in the type R cars did get some mild hand porting probably to remove the worst flashing

The more I read about the K24 the more surprised I am that people don't swap it into everything. Forged crankshaft and other things from the factory allows it to take quite a bit of boost

trilobite terror
Oct 20, 2007
BUT MY LIVELIHOOD DEPENDS ON THE FORUMS!
Another semi-random Fiesta related question thats been on my mind:

I regularly have to pull into/out of a steep driveway that has me coming and going at a 45 degree angle to avoid scraping.

Sometimes, when Im coming in (at least I dont remember the car ever doing it on the way out) the car will briefly tripod on three wheels as it gets up onto the driveway, depending on my exact angle of entry.

Is doing that regularly going to stress the frame/wheels/suspension?

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Ok Comboomer posted:

Another semi-random Fiesta related question that’s been on my mind:

I regularly have to pull into/out of a steep driveway that has me coming and going at a 45 degree angle to avoid scraping.

Sometimes, when I’m coming in (at least I don’t remember the car ever doing it on the way out) the car will briefly tripod on three wheels as it gets up onto the driveway, depending on my exact angle of entry.

Is doing that regularly going to stress the frame/wheels/suspension?

No.

KYOON GRIFFEY JR
Apr 12, 2010



Runner-up, TRP Sack Race 2021/22
No its fine

Raluek
Nov 3, 2006

WUT.

latinotwink1997 posted:

Is it possible to bleed brakes by yourself? The only time I ever did brakes was with someone more knowledgeable and I had to press the brake while they dealt with loosening/tightening the valve otherwise itd get air in the system. I dont do brakes myself simply because of this limitation.

in addition to the ways posted about already (speed bleeders, pressure bleeder, vacuum bleeder) i have had some success using a method i read about recently: use a longer tube than normal, make sure it goes up a good 6-8 inches off the bleeder nipple before it comes back down into whatever bottle you're using. the idea is that you create a column of brake fluid in the vertical part, so you can sit in the driver's seat and pump away (:heysexy:) with the bleeder open. air and fluid will push through, and when you bring the pedal back up it'll suck some of the fluid back in. the bubbles should float to the top, so they shouldn't get re-ingested.

this has worked for me about two of the three times i have used it, the third time i probably didn't have it set up right. it's a little fiddly. but it's mostly free, and really simple once you have it set up.

latinotwink1997
Jan 2, 2008

Taste my Ball of Hope, foul dragon!


Raluek posted:

in addition to the ways posted about already (speed bleeders, pressure bleeder, vacuum bleeder) i have had some success using a method i read about recently: use a longer tube than normal, make sure it goes up a good 6-8 inches off the bleeder nipple before it comes back down into whatever bottle you're using. the idea is that you create a column of brake fluid in the vertical part, so you can sit in the driver's seat and pump away (:heysexy:) with the bleeder open. air and fluid will push through, and when you bring the pedal back up it'll suck some of the fluid back in. the bubbles should float to the top, so they shouldn't get re-ingested.

this has worked for me about two of the three times i have used it, the third time i probably didn't have it set up right. it's a little fiddly. but it's mostly free, and really simple once you have it set up.

Ha, I like it. Ill have to investigate all these next time I need new brakes. Appreciate all the suggestions.

Elder Postsman
Aug 30, 2000


i used hot bot to search for "teens"

Ok, so I found a Mazda 5 about a month ago - a 2010 with 95k miles and I've put about 500 miles on it. Just got new tires put on. It's couple issues that are kind of baffling me:

1. At about 65 mph I get a slight shaking in the steering wheel, but not all the time. It sometimes shows up below 65, but only very rarely. I'm not totally discounting that the tire shop did a poo poo balancing job, but I'd expect it to show up all the time if that was it.
2. When going over bumps, I get a metallic kind of jangling keys rattle out of the front passenger side.

Had it in at a shop to see what they thought, and they said said it needs brakes, which I'm fairly certain is not the case - braking is solid and smooth with no pulsing or anything in the pedal and the pads still have plenty of material on them. I've got it in my garage up on stands now, and everything seems good. There's no play in the ball joints or tie rods, no loose heat shields, no torn boots or leaking fluids or anything. Only thing I can think of is maybe MAYBE the swaybar links, as I've read you can't really test those while they're on the car. But the ones on there have no socket for an allen key in the end of the bolt so I think I'm gonna have to cut them off if I go that route.

So, uh, I guess, any thoughts or ideas?

DildenAnders
Mar 16, 2016

"I recommend Batman especially, for he tends to transcend the abysmal society in which he's found himself. His morality is rather rigid, also. I rather respect Batman.”
What's the best way to fix a clear coat scratch? Scraped a wooden pole and got a decently sized scrape but it "goes away" when I spray water on it.

Sub Rosa
Jun 9, 2010




Okay, I got the cig plug voltage meter and have interesting results.

2005 Toyota Avalon XLS

Cranked and initially idleing at 500rpm. Plugs show 12.5v
Rev to steady 2000rpm. Plugs show 13.8v
Let idle again, now idleing at 600rpm. Plugs show 13.8v

Today I was at dead idle in traffic and I think the cooling fans stopped blowing and the car was dead dead when I came out of the store and I needed a jump for the second time.

I think this shows the alternator is not the issue though, it's the low idle rpm. So what causes that and how do I address it?

(I'm so glad I'm getting your and other help troubleshooting this, I know if I went to a local mechanic they would have shotgunned parts at the problem and I'd be on my third alternator with no resolution shortly.)

Edit: Throttle body could be dirty and keeping the valve open?

Sub Rosa fucked around with this message at 00:16 on Jul 23, 2023

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002
1997 Ford F250 HD just hit 200k miles and it starts hard shifting. What do?

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



Whens the last time the transmission fluid was changed?

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

Dr. Lunchables posted:

When’s the last time the transmission fluid was changed?

No idea. I bought it 5k miles ago. I barely drive the thing with its "10 to the gallon" 460.

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



Its a relatively cheap thing to do, and it could address the issue. Dont get it flushed at that mileage, just changed. Flushing it might push chunks of poo poo around that dont wanna be pushed around.

kid sinister
Nov 16, 2002

Dr. Lunchables posted:

It’s a relatively cheap thing to do, and it could address the issue. Don’t get it flushed at that mileage, just changed. Flushing it might push chunks of poo poo around that dont wanna be pushed around.

Oh God. I looked it up. 18 quarts of ATF fluid!

Dr. Lunchables
Dec 27, 2012

IRL DEBUFFED KOBOLD



Thats just four and a half gallons, which means you can easily drain it into a five gallon bucket.

e: or you could bring it to a garage. Its shouldnt be expensive, since its just a different type of oil change.

CAT INTERCEPTOR
Nov 9, 2004

Basically a male Margaret Thatcher

Elder Postsman posted:

Ok, so I found a Mazda 5 about a month ago - a 2010 with 95k miles and I've put about 500 miles on it. Just got new tires put on. It's couple issues that are kind of baffling me:

1. At about 65 mph I get a slight shaking in the steering wheel, but not all the time. It sometimes shows up below 65, but only very rarely. I'm not totally discounting that the tire shop did a poo poo balancing job, but I'd expect it to show up all the time if that was it.
2. When going over bumps, I get a metallic kind of jangling keys rattle out of the front passenger side.

Had it in at a shop to see what they thought, and they said said it needs brakes, which I'm fairly certain is not the case - braking is solid and smooth with no pulsing or anything in the pedal and the pads still have plenty of material on them. I've got it in my garage up on stands now, and everything seems good. There's no play in the ball joints or tie rods, no loose heat shields, no torn boots or leaking fluids or anything. Only thing I can think of is maybe MAYBE the swaybar links, as I've read you can't really test those while they're on the car. But the ones on there have no socket for an allen key in the end of the bolt so I think I'm gonna have to cut them off if I go that route.

So, uh, I guess, any thoughts or ideas?

1) Yeah that one is most likely not a great balance and a harmonic at that speed as a result.

2) Thats an interesting one - Maybe see if a passenger can help get the source as close as possible?

emSparkly
Nov 21, 2022

I'm open to interpretation!
Any stupid question? Ok.

My 2016 Ford Fiesta squeaks when I hit the breaks. Pedal feels normal, no grinding, just a noise like nails on a chalkboard. Usually happens when I'm going less than like 40mph.

CAT INTERCEPTOR
Nov 9, 2004

Basically a male Margaret Thatcher

DildenAnders posted:

What's the best way to fix a clear coat scratch? Scraped a wooden pole and got a decently sized scrape but it "goes away" when I spray water on it.

Paint correction pen, although there are car detailing goons that may have better suggestions.

Wrar
Sep 9, 2002


Soiled Meat

emSparkly posted:

Any stupid question? Ok.

My 2016 Ford Fiesta squeaks when I hit the breaks. Pedal feels normal, no grinding, just a noise like nails on a chalkboard. Usually happens when I'm going less than like 40mph.

You are probably to the squealers that tell you the pads need to be changed.

IOwnCalculus
Apr 2, 2003





Sub Rosa posted:

Okay, I got the cig plug voltage meter and have interesting results.

2005 Toyota Avalon XLS

Cranked and initially idleing at 500rpm. Plugs show 12.5v
Rev to steady 2000rpm. Plugs show 13.8v
Let idle again, now idleing at 600rpm. Plugs show 13.8v

Today I was at dead idle in traffic and I think the cooling fans stopped blowing and the car was dead dead when I came out of the store and I needed a jump for the second time.

I think this shows the alternator is not the issue though, it's the low idle rpm. So what causes that and how do I address it?

(I'm so glad I'm getting your and other help troubleshooting this, I know if I went to a local mechanic they would have shotgunned parts at the problem and I'd be on my third alternator with no resolution shortly.)

Edit: Throttle body could be dirty and keeping the valve open?

I question whether it's really idling at 500 since it should be rattling like hell at that low of a speed. But if the car is running and the alternator isn't actually putting out any voltage until you rev it up higher, that seems like the alternator is dying or there's an issue with whatever control circuit excites the alternator.

emSparkly posted:

Any stupid question? Ok.

My 2016 Ford Fiesta squeaks when I hit the breaks. Pedal feels normal, no grinding, just a noise like nails on a chalkboard. Usually happens when I'm going less than like 40mph.

There are often metal tabs on brake pads that are set up to rub against the rotor when the pad is worn out; your pads are worn and you should get that addressed as soon as practical. If you ignore it too long like I just did you end up with metal on metal brakes which are A Bad Thing.

Adbot
ADBOT LOVES YOU

sleepy gary
Jan 11, 2006

I have a b5.5 passat that is locked and the battery is dead. The key cylinders are jammed up so I can't unlock the thing manually or with the fob. What's the easiest way for me to get into the car?

  • 1
  • 2
  • 3
  • 4
  • 5
  • Post
  • Reply