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Finished up this guy today. These HeroQuest models are kind of great
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# ? Jul 23, 2023 21:51 |
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# ? May 11, 2024 07:31 |
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WIP on this Magmadroth
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# ? Jul 24, 2023 00:59 |
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Shoehead posted:Finished up this guy today. The Best Thing about Hero Quest. Verisimilidude posted:WIP on this Magmadroth Incredible! How do you do it, start from the mid tone and highlight/recess colour?
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# ? Jul 24, 2023 02:16 |
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Springfield Fatts posted:Has anyone had recent experience with Badger's Stynelrez primers? I know they had qc issues a while back and wonder if that got sorted. It looks like their primer is for FDM style 3d prints, and not resin prints. It looks like it is a two step thing and would be designed to create a more flat surface. So unless you are painting an FDM model, I would skip it. If you are painting FDM models it might be nice though!
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# ? Jul 24, 2023 04:11 |
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BizarroAzrael posted:The Best Thing about Hero Quest. Assuming you're speaking about the scaly area: I brush really liquidy white onto the area so it gets primarily into the crevices, almost like a white wash. Then I go over it with some kind of base layer, in the scaly area's case, with transparent red fluor ink from Daler Rowny. I then put transparent red ink over that to tamp down the intensity a bit, and use an airbrush (but you could use a drybrush as well) to apply AK Tenebrous Grey, pointed in such a way that it doesn't hit the crevices. Then I go over it with more tenebrous brown in thin layers where it would be further away from the heat source. Then the highest points are capped off with pure black. For the frill: I brush really liquidy white onto the areas similar to before, apply Golden High Flow Acrylic Fluor Yellow to the areas closest to the heat source, and then start blending outward with GHFA Fluor Orange, Red Ink, Dark Red, Tenebrous Grey and then eventually black at the very furthest tips. You can kinda see the WIP here: The area that appears pink is going to look like the thick armor plating in the end. The frills here I need to go back and fix up the transitions, I was getting a bit sloppy after painting for 8 hours straight.
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# ? Jul 24, 2023 04:27 |
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First time really painting, tried once before a few weeks ago on some Legionaries and didn't come out so hot. This came out much better. Not perfect at all but I bet its tabletop ready. Phone made them look way brighter than they are in person. Way darker than in the pictures. E2M2 fucked around with this message at 05:28 on Jul 24, 2023 |
# ? Jul 24, 2023 05:26 |
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E2M2 posted:First time really painting, tried once before a few weeks ago on some Legionaries and didn't come out so hot. This came out much better. Not perfect at all but I bet its tabletop ready. Those look great! I love the plasma gun and the stomach mouth on the guy next to the gunner. Solid work all around.
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# ? Jul 24, 2023 05:58 |
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Still a WIP, but here's how my test figure is coming along so far with the new brushes I recently got. The "edge highlighting" is actually drybrushing and then cleaning up with the basecoat afterwards. It's a heck of a lot easier to do than actually trying to edge highlight, I find. Here's a couple of videos by Sonic Sledgehammer Studios that go over the concept for anyone that's interested: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZvOX4Zl1Q98 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BlQSP8GecXE I basecoated, then applied a blue shade wash, then drybrushed the highlights on, then cleaned it all up with the original basecoat. To bring it all together, I applied a glaze (in this case, a 4:1 mix of Vallejo Glaze Medium and GW Talassar Blue Contrast). It looks a lot brighter in the pic than it does in person. I think all that's left is to apply a dark wash to the "steel" parts, a reddish-brown wash to the "gold" parts, and then do any final cleanup needed before applying decals, basing, and varnishing. Then I just have to paint some more of 'em.
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# ? Jul 24, 2023 06:50 |
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^^^^ wow your blues come together so nice! Skipping edge highlights sounds like a nice speed boost. What is your basecoat color if I may ask? I just bought Talassar Blue and it's so beautiful and vivid. WIP of some Squigs I bought when I went to the Tacoma Open and did a paint class, really felt inspired to paint today instead of my usual buy minis and build models collecting/small grey pile. I also went a little nuts and threw every color at them and just aimed to have fun. I've been obsessively preparing to paint and lurking this thread taking notes on great color schemes and color recipes. Finally put brush to some boyos. Shout out to this Lime Green recipe in particular, think I'm going to do all my kroot boys skin this way: quote:Lime green color recipe I did a black, grey and white primer with some zenithal action out of spray cans on all. My fav so far is dark green, 3 layers of Aethermatic blue, then the lime green contrast mix on top. I did some shading and the teeth and feet as well but it was too dark for good photos Thanks for all the awesome painting posted here, it's inspiring neat stuff. That Magmadroth is unreal, excited to experiment with inks at some point. Any good brand or US sources for inks? stackofflapjacks fucked around with this message at 07:17 on Jul 24, 2023 |
# ? Jul 24, 2023 07:11 |
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Verisimilidude posted:
Verisimilidude posted:proAcryl are superior in these regards. Proacryl primer is the most matte I've ever used in 20+ years of painting. It's absurdly matte. Incredibly toothy and almost too matte. Edit: In fact Pro Acryl's coal black literally is too matte. I have to use other blacks because, like Scale75's flat black, it looks like you've painted primer on the model, so I cannot use theirs for base rims. edit2: I end up using either Vallejo model colour black or 2 thin coats black for this.
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# ? Jul 24, 2023 09:05 |
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stackofflapjacks posted:^^^^ wow your blues come together so nice! Skipping edge highlights sounds like a nice speed boost. What is your basecoat color if I may ask? I just bought Talassar Blue and it's so beautiful and vivid. Thanks! The basecoat is Vallejo Game Color Heavy Blue (which is getting discontinued from what I gather, so I really should get another bottle or two). The drybrushing and cleanup method of highlighting isn't necessarily faster than the traditional edge highlighting method, but it's probably easier in terms of getting the same effect, if you don't have as steady of a hand as you might like when it comes to carefully applying edge highlights. You're basically just going over the bigger areas and cleaning up any splotchy parts, rather than trying to carefully drag your brush across a raised edge. Sydney Bottocks fucked around with this message at 12:55 on Jul 24, 2023 |
# ? Jul 24, 2023 12:49 |
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Yeast posted:Proacryl primer is the most matte I've ever used in 20+ years of painting. It's absurdly matte. Incredibly toothy and almost too matte. I picked up some ProAcryl Sky Blue to use on my Deathskulls and was having difficulty articulating what was off about it for me and it's this. It's so absurdly matte that the finish comes out like chalk if I'm not careful.
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# ? Jul 24, 2023 13:41 |
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with twitter being run by an idiot and increasingly infested with assholes, what sites are people using to share their minis? the twitter thing sucks because i worked hard to build up a following but its increasingly a terrible place
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# ? Jul 24, 2023 16:35 |
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Instagram.
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# ? Jul 24, 2023 16:46 |
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Is there anywhere that isn't run by an idiot and increasingly infested with assholes?
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# ? Jul 24, 2023 17:01 |
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tangy yet delightful posted:Instagram. *Ahem* Instaham.
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# ? Jul 24, 2023 17:28 |
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Lumpy posted:Is there anywhere that isn't run by an idiot and increasingly infested with assholes? on the internet? no.
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# ? Jul 24, 2023 17:53 |
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Geisladisk posted:The only problem I found with Sansodor is that it took fully a week for the oil wash to dry. Never had that issue with other solvents. That's weird. Mine have been fully dry overnight and I've managed to accelerate that further with an oven/hairdryer. I don't have enough experience with oils to troubleshoot though. I use W&N Artisan and Winton lines FWIW.
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# ? Jul 24, 2023 18:01 |
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Yeast posted:Proacryl primer is the most matte I've ever used in 20+ years of painting. It's absurdly matte. Incredibly toothy and almost too matte. The bottle of proAcryl primer I have is more satin than my Stynelrez primer, which comes out almost chalky matte. I didn't say it was a satin primer, I said it was more satin than Stynelrez.
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# ? Jul 24, 2023 18:03 |
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Nebalebadingdong posted:with twitter being run by an idiot and increasingly infested with assholes, what sites are people using to share their minis? the twitter thing sucks because i worked hard to build up a following but its increasingly a terrible place I just started on Instagram, building a following is slow, but steady. There are some great folks on there, I see other people from this thread posting over there. I won't touch twitter anymore and am better for it imo.
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# ? Jul 24, 2023 19:46 |
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im on instagram too, but there's less interaction. personally think it has a horrible UI too. im enjoying tumblr so far, but its got a more limited audience
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# ? Jul 24, 2023 20:05 |
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Yeah insta sucks. So does facebook, but there are lots of people there. I feel like everyone in this thread is probably on the same page about social media, we wouldn't be here if we weren't.
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# ? Jul 24, 2023 20:07 |
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In my experience Insta has been positive. There's a stronger feeling of community on there than say Twitter when it comes to the hobby but I dunno of that's just the tags I roll with or what. The only negative things I've bumped into was losing my first hobby account about 3 years ago when I first joined for unknown reasons and the occasional problem where certain things I post gets shadowbanned with no obvious indication other than the image not showing up when you search the tag. Which in retrospect sounds loving stupid. So I can see why Insta isn't for everyone.
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# ? Jul 24, 2023 20:15 |
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If instagram wasn't Facebook, I might join, but it is, so....
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# ? Jul 24, 2023 20:15 |
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Yeah I only have a meta account because I need it to sell my art, facebook is where a lot of my buyers are. Otherwise I would not be on a meta product, but seeing as I'm already there...
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# ? Jul 24, 2023 20:19 |
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Lumpy posted:If instagram wasn't Facebook, I might join, but it is, so.... You probably just mean, all owned by the same fucksticks, but you can (and I do) have an IG account but not a FB. Yeah it sucks but I find so much inspiration, tip, tutorials, and a wee bit of community on IG which is all nice enough for me to submit to the machine.
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# ? Jul 24, 2023 20:23 |
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tangy yet delightful posted:You probably just mean, all owned by the same fucksticks, but you can (and I do) have an IG account but not a FB. Yeah it sucks but I find so much inspiration, tip, tutorials, and a wee bit of community on IG which is all nice enough for me to submit to the machine. On the backend they're all the same and personal info will be sold and exploited all the same, if that's their concern. Facebook pixel ad trackers specifically hook into IG accounts the same and link to all personal data (email, phone, etc).
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# ? Jul 24, 2023 20:25 |
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I'm pretty new to Insta, is the best way to see posts/get your posts seen just to follow the hashtags people use?
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# ? Jul 24, 2023 20:30 |
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And use the hashtags as well. If you find relevant hashtags that aren't as heavily used you can build a following a bit quicker using them. If you figure something out report back please, I'm no good at social media. I'm getting ready to just hire someone to do it for me for my art account.
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# ? Jul 24, 2023 20:37 |
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Appreciate all of the info on the odorless thinners; think Turpenoid is gonna be the go to. Here's a pic of what I've been working on lately (x-posted from the 40k thread)
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# ? Jul 24, 2023 20:50 |
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ya so if you type certain hashtags in the Insta search bar it'll give you results with fewer than 100, 100+ posts or 1000+ posts like #goonhammer for example. Then when you click on those hashtag results you have the option to follow the tag. So you'll get posts that include that hashtag in your feed now. You can follow and join in on any tags you want by typing the tag in your post description and people who follow that tag are more likely to see your posts. It's by no means guaranteed but you get more reach that way if that's what you're after.
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# ? Jul 24, 2023 21:00 |
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Looks like someone at We Print Miniatures hosed up when sending my models and reported 211 euros worth of stuff in there and now I owe about 55 quid in VAT
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# ? Jul 24, 2023 21:43 |
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EdsTeioh posted:Appreciate all of the info on the odorless thinners; think Turpenoid is gonna be the go to. Here's a pic of what I've been working on lately (x-posted from the 40k thread) Oh wow, these look great! I think my Vostroyans will be getting an oil wash. I'm convinced.
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# ? Jul 24, 2023 22:29 |
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Virtual Russian posted:Oh wow, these look great! I think my Vostroyans will be getting an oil wash. I'm convinced. Thanks! They’re actually enamel washes but the process is similar.
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# ? Jul 24, 2023 23:07 |
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Shoehead posted:Looks like someone at We Print Miniatures hosed up when sending my models and reported 211 euros worth of stuff in there and now I owe about 55 quid in VAT Nigel Farage hates minis and mini painters. Fact.
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# ? Jul 25, 2023 01:24 |
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I've been painting lots with speedpaints recently and I want to get my eye back in with traditional acrylics. I have a set of Dark Eldar with lots of skin exposed and I was thinking about using them as a trial for clean and 'beautiful' models, rather than scummy and weathered. I figure a very pale skintone and then dark blue/purple is armour is probably a fair shout - but I don't want them looking like statues?
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# ? Jul 25, 2023 06:38 |
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Southern Heel posted:I've been painting lots with speedpaints recently and I want to get my eye back in with traditional acrylics. I have a set of Dark Eldar with lots of skin exposed and I was thinking about using them as a trial for clean and 'beautiful' models, rather than scummy and weathered. I figure a very pale skintone and then dark blue/purple is armour is probably a fair shout - but I don't want them looking like statues? Red in the skintone will help it feel more alive, especially in areas of thin skin, like the cheeks, nose, ears, elbows and knees. You should be able to, with a bit of experimentation, get a lovely pale tone without it looking dead.
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# ? Jul 25, 2023 08:58 |
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OK, so warm grey midtone, shaded with red/pink? Here are some 8mm Battle Brothers: I thought I'd try a goblin green + sand + drybrush yellow for the sake of variety seeing as the light grey and yellow is pretty pale, but I'm not sure it works at all!
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# ? Jul 25, 2023 11:57 |
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Southern Heel posted:I've been painting lots with speedpaints recently and I want to get my eye back in with traditional acrylics. I have a set of Dark Eldar with lots of skin exposed and I was thinking about using them as a trial for clean and 'beautiful' models, rather than scummy and weathered. I figure a very pale skintone and then dark blue/purple is armour is probably a fair shout - but I don't want them looking like statues? Do random glazes on the skin with green/purple/blue/pink to make them more alive. IRL the paler the skin the more transparent it is so you actually see more of the underlying veins which give a greater variation in shades (IIRC blue blood came from the veins visible from the exceptionally colourless, inbred nobles). It is a lot easier to make a good looking mini with pale skin than dark skin - you have to work a lot harder to get the tonal variations on black/brown skin whereas you can slap some random glazes on pale skin and call it a day.
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# ? Jul 25, 2023 12:15 |
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# ? May 11, 2024 07:31 |
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Wangsucker 69 posted:I bought a couple sets of these brushes from Amazon and they are loving great beater brushes, super pointy and snappy and I love painting with them. I bought three packs, I really need to get a decent set of brushes. Relatedly, I need help taking care of my brushes. It seems like I often don't clean them entirely and I come days later and find I've ruined another brush - it'll have that hard shell of dried paint on it. I own a jar of conditioner, obviously I have access to water, paper towels, etc. I honestly don't know what I'm doing wrong. Maybe I'm not drying them well enough after rising them off at end? I set them in my kitchen drying rack. How often do y'all clean your brushes while painting? I rinse mine any time I change colors or models. So in a batch of five marines, if I'm putting a layer paint down on some element, I rinse the brush each time I switch models. It feels often enough? I think I'm cleaning them thoroughly enough at the end of a session - I've started taking them to the kitchen and using warm water out of the spray nozel to really hose them down, it seemed like swirling them around in the rinsing jar would leave colored residue on the paper towel for many, many rinse cycles? Maybe the water is too hot? I dunno, it's kind of frustrating to feel like my fine detail brushes are less than ideal after just a handful of painting sessions, somehow I'm really misusing them.
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# ? Jul 25, 2023 14:49 |