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spwrozek posted:Just climb. Eventually you will be as strong as the 12 year old girls at the gym. my 6 year old daughter (almost 7 to be fair) just sent her first 5.9. my gf then struggled to follow it up with the same route
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Jul 23, 2023 22:24
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spwrozek posted:Just climb. Eventually you will be as strong as the 12 year old girls at the gym. Let's not set expectations too high here
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Jul 23, 2023 22:37
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Also learn how to fall properly, and keep practicing it. Nothing’s going to hamper your progress more than getting injury time-outs. 
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Jul 24, 2023 01:02
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alnilam posted:Let's not set expectations too high here Seriously I know people climbing double digits that are under that bar Avoiding injuries is mostly about listening to your body - preventing injuries is about doing antagonist work and strengthening body parts. A good benchmark is to dedicate 1/3 of the total time you spend climbing to antagonist work
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Jul 24, 2023 01:03
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spwrozek posted:Just climb. Eventually you will be as strong as the 12 year old girls at the gym. this is an egregious lie
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Jul 24, 2023 04:24
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As strong, maybe. Strength:weight ratio much harder to achieve.
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Jul 24, 2023 13:24
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As a 40 something who got into bouldering after major surgery and a core that was sliced in half and needed major rehabilitation - just climb, but also don't feel like you always need to be climbing routes that are your project level (i.e. what's the most challenging for you and takes a lot of tries). There is absolutely nothing wrong, and you should be spending some of your time climbing things that are easy for you. Use them as an opportunity to practice technique (like forcing yourself to flag every time you move your hands, or climbing and downclimbing multiple times for endurance). Climbing at your limit all the time makes you more prone to injuries and will limit your sessions since you'll be completely exhausted really quickly. quote:my 6 year old daughter (almost 7 to be fair) just sent her first 5.9. my gf then struggled to follow it up with the same route Went to a (casual) bouldering competition with my 10 year old and I managed only one more route than he did (and that was entirely due to height)
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Jul 24, 2023 14:22
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"Just climb" is fine advice at this point. But also, don't just climb and then jump on your phone or other distraction between climbing. Watch other people climb. Try to pick up movement techniques and ideas from them. Try experiments with movement and body positions on the wall. Small changes to movement can make a huge difference in how hard something feels. Watching others and climbing with other people will accelerate your learning.
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Jul 24, 2023 14:39
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Fine advice all, thanks. That antagonist training seems to be particularly useful, IMO. I’m a computer toucher, and have done *nothing* for strength, except last two years when I really got into walking. But that’s practically all just cardio. So even when i get some muscles with climbing, the rest will still be atrophied. You joke about children, but I meant it. I do have upper body strength of a 12 year old girl. It’s just my 90something kilograms keeping me down  I’ll try to aim for three visits per week, at least for a while, and hope i dont screw up my foot too much.
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Jul 24, 2023 17:36
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You sound not too far off from me. My teens and early 20's were filled with sugary drinks, World of Warcraft, and comp sci classes. I was 240-260 pounds (that I'm not sure tells you a lot  ) at my heaviest.In my mid 20's I got a doggo and started walking a bunch, but it wasn't until the climbing gym opened in my late 20's that I started doing more than walking/occasional hikes. It took me a year to go from like doing V1's and V2's out of the gate to getting my first "V5" (my gym is soft as hell now, it was even softer back then). I've done almost nothing but climb, climb, and more climbing and now today I flash most 4's, get most 5's, and once in a blue moon get a 6 if it's my style and or soft. I've also suffered like an injury every year which I suspect is due to poor diet, a lack of conditioning, and pushing myself too hard -- like my gym sets really long problems in its cave feature and I was working on downclimbing as much as I could as many days a week I could and just didn't rest enough. For the most part, I do think "Just Climb" is the answer, but it's also worth considering throwing in some push ups, pull ups, and planks at home if you can. It doesn't need to be a lot, it doesn't need to be every day, but slowly building the habit should help in the long term. edit; Yea no idea about the bursitis thing  I do basically have perpetual pain in the joint for my big toe on 1 foot, but it's never really been anything more than just an annoyance.
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Jul 24, 2023 17:56
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Just climb depends on what your goals are also, if it's to get better at climbing then the answer is "just climb" for a long time, because the other training things people do to try to make themselves better at climbing just takes away recovery time from developing your climbing skill, and climbing is nearly as efficient for developing climbing strength as training climbing specific strength is. If you want to be more generally fit though, then you probably want to get some other things in. Just don't train climbing specific stuff. Do mobility work, general strength training, cardio, or maybe actually work your legs out.NocnaShada posted:You joke about children, but I meant it. I do have upper body strength of a 12 year old girl. It’s just my 90something kilograms keeping me down There's no jokes here, 12 year old girls are monsters who cannot be contained. Team kids will warm up on your projects for as long as you keep climbing.
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Jul 24, 2023 18:24
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I was making a joke you nerds. I suppose "eventually" was doing the heavy lifting.
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Jul 24, 2023 18:46
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spwrozek posted:I was making a joke you nerds. it wasn't funny because they routinely outclimb me
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Jul 24, 2023 18:47
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spwrozek posted:I was making a joke you nerds. I suppose "eventually" was doing the heavy lifting. Maybe my perception is skewed since I have both the national champions climbing at my gym and they're all of 16, and get tons of 12 year olds that climb harder than I ever will. I've watched Annie Sanders climb since she was pretty small and she flashed a 5.14 a couple years ago at 14.
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Jul 24, 2023 19:05
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along those lines, gotta ask you all if this is just out of line or what. My kid usually just does hard practices at their team gym, but that's just a bouldering gym, so I took him and a friend to the local. After they worked through the top ropes, they decided to "cool down" by playing "boulder golf". Which apparently entails doing all the easier routes, but in as few moves as possible. I'm sure they picked it up at their practices, and definitely seems like a good competitive workout to develop dyno skills. But after watching them for a bit, I was like uhhhh, I think you all are kinda coming off like little assholes by blasting through someone's project in 3 moves right in front of them, and then on to the next. Yes/no? Try to keep them to stuff at their actual level, and go do a pull up competition or something if they want to bro it out? As the dad, I'm just psyched to see them crushing poo poo and working hard while having fun. But a lot of folks seem to be trending more towards the 'gently caress those kids' side of the jokes. It is a bit of a weird thing in climbing that weighing 60 pounds can trump a lot of experience. And hey, most of these kids will go for *days* off of getting a fist bump from someone at the gym who isn't their parent or coach. Just keeping him focused on individual progress, and being positive about how good he is actually doing after getting crushed in a competition by those national champs can be difficult. It's not a sport with a ton of crowds and support!
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Jul 24, 2023 20:58
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Baddog posted:along those lines, gotta ask you all if this is just out of line or what. I've seen it a million times, it's pretty standard. Doing that on a route someone is actively working on in between their attempts is totally a dick move, but the practice in general is fine.
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Jul 24, 2023 21:06
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Your kid's fine - anybody who actually gets upset by someone flashing their project or doing drills on it needs to fix their own viewpoint, and you shouldn't change what you're climbing because of them. Don't be the weirdo campusing V2s trying to pick up girls, but also don't worry about campusing V2s if that's good training for you.
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Jul 24, 2023 21:23
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It's one of those things where it'll happen to me and I might jokingly think, "Ah man what an rear end in a top hat" but I don't mean it. Unless they're like actively cutting people off as they're about to go attempt it so they can gently caress around and hog it as a group, then  So basically; crushing someone's project isn't inherently a dick move, but it can be depending on how you go about it.
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Jul 24, 2023 21:38
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Baddog posted:Yes/no? I support it! Having a child in flip flops campus my project with zero effort is just part of the charm of climbing.
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Jul 24, 2023 22:26
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There is always someone better than you. Someone will always warm up on your project. Get over it. Also it is a gym, the route will be gone in 6-8 weeks. Boohoo some kids sent it easy and you didn't figure it out.
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Jul 24, 2023 22:29
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Just like when I get clowned by kids in COD or whatever the only proper response is to 
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Jul 24, 2023 22:50
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The only time I'm mad at kids at the gym is when they are running under me when I'm twelve feet up the bouldering wall with a terrible case of Elvis leg
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Jul 25, 2023 01:49
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How insanely insecure do you need to be to get mad about someone else finishing a problem at the gym lmao
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Jul 25, 2023 02:32
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Papercut posted:How insanely insecure do you need to be to get mad about someone else finishing a problem at the gym lmao I always thought the joke about the team kids flashing your proj was self-deprecating.
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Jul 25, 2023 03:00
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vonnegutt posted:The only time I'm mad at kids at the gym is when they are running under me when I'm twelve feet up the bouldering wall with a terrible case of Elvis leg Also it’s fun to watch team kids flash/warm up on my projects; it gives me ideas on how to improve my movement and beta.
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Jul 25, 2023 04:36
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Don't worry about it. Kids being kids. But also, it would be nice to encourage them to do one of the "Mind if I jump on?" questions that the only real answer to is "nope, go for it" (unless the person being asked is an rear end in a top hat). It gives someone working a chance to turn away and not spoil solving it and is just generally friendlier gym etiquette (that I also fail at doing but always try to do better).
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Jul 25, 2023 16:14
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I don’t care WHAT the kiddos climb but the team kids were kinda annoying me the other day by making up routes traversing across big chunks of the wall and climbing them without breaks, so taking up kind of a lot of the set routes all at once.
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Jul 25, 2023 16:34
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There's two situations I see where it's rude in my opinion - 1) They're messing around on like a V0 or V1 that some new climber is trying to get. Seriously just give the new folks some space to figure poo poo out, especially if the gym isn't super busy so they could be climbing elsewhere. It's not a matter of them having some ego-trauma because someone flashes their project, it's just disheartening. 2) Someone doesn't want the beta because it actually is their project. In both cases, the classic "Hey mind if I jump on this?" is the minimum required to be polite, but in the first situation it's really best to just go climb somewhere else. It's usually pretty obvious if it's the first rather than the second, as watching the other climber for 30 seconds will give you some indication of whether they're new or not. I routinely warm up by climbing a few V0s, V1s, V2s, and V3s in order, and when I do that I always skip over stuff that people are working on (unless the gym is really crowded), it's just common courtesy.
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Jul 25, 2023 16:59
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On a related note, my local gym is completely rammed most of the time and it gets really frustrating when someone is working a problem but spends 90% of their time standing next to it not actually climbing instead of stepping back and making space for others to have a go while they're catching their breath or whatever. It gets even worse when you get a big group just kind of loitering around watching the one guy projecting, I get that it's fun to hang out with your friends when climbing but don't fill up the entire available space right next to the wall, go stand somewhere else!
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Jul 25, 2023 17:32
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RabidWeasel posted:On a related note, my local gym is completely rammed most of the time and it gets really frustrating when someone is working a problem but spends 90% of their time standing next to it not actually climbing instead of stepping back and making space for others to have a go while they're catching their breath or whatever. It gets even worse when you get a big group just kind of loitering around watching the one guy projecting, I get that it's fun to hang out with your friends when climbing but don't fill up the entire available space right next to the wall, go stand somewhere else! my gym doesn't allow standing on the boulder mat unless you're headign to the boulder. works really well. that way everyone stands back and you only step on the mat to approach the boulder when you're ready to go
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Jul 25, 2023 17:34
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RabidWeasel posted:It gets even worse when you get a big group just kind of loitering around watching the one guy projecting, I get that it's fun to hang out with your friends when climbing but don't fill up the entire available space right next to the wall, go stand somewhere else! Ugh this reminds me of a weird experience I had at one small tucked away corner of a crag, we were occupying 2 of 3 routes and trying not to step on each other on the small belay area. A crew of 9 college age kids shows up and we say something like "Uhh, the main wall is that way with the rest of the routes" and they were like "Oh, we're not climbers, only 2 of us climb" and they proceeded to crowd around and watch those two guys climb the remaining route. At the time I was annoyed but afterwards I was just like, "what 7 people drove all the way out to watch their buddies climb? Do they have nothing better to do?"
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Jul 25, 2023 18:36
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The rude gym thing I see the most is people hanging out still clipped into the autobelay while they chat with their friend and rest between attempts. I get it if you're jumping back on right away, but if you're resting for more than like 10 seconds then your turn is over bub. Hell even if I do up-down laps on the autobelay where I don't touch the floor between laps, I'll check in with anyone who looks like they're waiting.
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Jul 25, 2023 19:11
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vonnegutt posted:
That's the college experience: hanging out with your friends while they do their hobbies because you enjoy their company and you've got free time.
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Jul 25, 2023 22:27
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The only situation where I think flashing someone else's route is rude is the gym bro clearly only climbing it it because the cute girl was struggling and he wants to show off what a cool bouldering dude he is.
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Jul 26, 2023 12:36
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enki42 posted:The only situation where I think flashing someone else's route is rude is the gym bro clearly only climbing it it because the cute girl was struggling and he wants to show off what a cool bouldering dude he is. If I campus it and make eye contact while hanging one armed on the finish hold it's charming though right?
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Jul 26, 2023 12:59
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KingColliwog posted:If I campus it and make eye contact while hanging one armed on the finish hold it's charming though right? That’s a good start, but be sure to complete the follow-through by offering unsolicited advice on how they should be completing it
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Jul 26, 2023 19:10
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RabidWeasel posted:On a related note, my local gym is completely rammed most of the time and it gets really frustrating when someone is working a problem but spends 90% of their time standing next to it not actually climbing instead of stepping back and making space for others to have a go while they're catching their breath or whatever. It gets even worse when you get a big group just kind of loitering around watching the one guy projecting, I get that it's fun to hang out with your friends when climbing but don't fill up the entire available space right next to the wall, go stand somewhere else! Yeah this is the actually annoying thing about kids/climbing teams at the gym, they tend to just chill on the mats like it's an appropriate place to hang out instead of getting the gently caress out of the way
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Jul 26, 2023 19:17
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Clockwerk posted:That’s a good start, but be sure to complete the follow-through by offering unsolicited advice on how they should be completing it I only spray (bad) beta once they are already on the wall otherwise it's not confusing enough and would also give them an opportunity to talk back
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Jul 26, 2023 21:23
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spwrozek posted:Just climb. Eventually you will be as strong as the 12 year old girls at the gym. I wish. One 12 yr old here walks 7c boulders and 8a routes without trying.
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Jul 26, 2023 22:07
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alnilam posted:The rude gym thing I see the most is people hanging out still clipped into the autobelay while they chat with their friend and rest between attempts. I get it if you're jumping back on right away, but if you're resting for more than like 10 seconds then your turn is over bub. Imo 4-6 laps with a minute break in between each lap is an ideal form to up your anaerobic endurance. Just going up and down like a yoyo removes the time needed for your body to recover from lactic acid buildup. Ideally you want to just fail (or succeed) on your last lap. I can see people jug hauling their way up easy stuff on the autobelay all the time. Problem is that its too easy to improve their fitness or technique. It's just empty mileage that gives them the nice 'tired from working out'-feeling.
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Jul 26, 2023 22:29
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