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runawayturtles
Aug 2, 2004
The PTAC in my office nook is ineffective because the cool air goes right out of the area instead of going to the left/right and hitting the thermostat. Aside from installing a door, is there something I can attach to the PTAC (I think it's a GE Zoneline) to send the air to both sides? I've only found some deflectors that direct air up/down.

Here's a handy diagram of what I mean:

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George H.W. Cunt
Oct 6, 2010





I absolutely hate fans that only operate via remote. I have no idea if the remote is messed up or the receiver box in the actual fan or what. All I know is that I can’t use the actual fan portion and it’s driving me mad.

Rotten
May 21, 2002

As a shadow I walk in the land of the dead

Verman posted:

A rickety wooden ladder and a manual hand drill

lmao

FISHMANPET
Mar 3, 2007

Sweet 'N Sour
Can't
Melt
Steel Beams
Where the heck would you even find such a device anymore.

Shifty Pony
Dec 28, 2004

Up ta somethin'


runawayturtles posted:

The PTAC in my office nook is ineffective because the cool air goes right out of the area instead of going to the left/right and hitting the thermostat. Aside from installing a door, is there something I can attach to the PTAC (I think it's a GE Zoneline) to send the air to both sides? I've only found some deflectors that direct air up/down.

Here's a handy diagram of what I mean:



would an air defector for mini-split units like this work?




Maybe with a small fan?

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Reminds me of the two 8.5x11 I taped long ways side by side over the vent above my head at an office job long ago

TerminalSaint
Apr 21, 2007


Where must we go...

we who wander this Wasteland in search of our better selves?

FISHMANPET posted:

Where the heck would you even find such a device anymore.

If we're talking an old brace style drill they're not hard to find as antiques, and new ones are still manufactured. They offer precise control and more power than electric drills. If it's an eggbeater style then lol and it was probably his grandfather's.

trevorreznik
Apr 22, 2023

You'd think the hand operated drill guy would be super excited about a loss of power for the neighborhood

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006

Yes, I know I'm old, get off my fucking lawn so I can yell at these clouds.

TerminalSaint posted:

If we're talking an old brace style drill they're not hard to find as antiques, and new ones are still manufactured. They offer precise control and more power than electric drills. If it's an eggbeater style then lol and it was probably his grandfather's.

Hipsters gonna hipster.

Wouldn't be the first time I saw someone trying to do something with an antiquated tool - perhaps their grandfather's perhaps just a yard sale pickup - because they have this ingrained belief that older = better.

There's this quasi-mystical thing that some people ascribe to old stuff, like it's all an ancestral heirloom made of hanzo steel using lost techniques that gives the wielder +5 to whatever. I've seen it with tools, guns, occasionally cars, pretty much anything made of metal.

Verman
Jul 4, 2005
Third time is a charm right?
Egg beater style drill. 6th grade wood shop style.

There's a lot of truth to people thinking heritage items are inherently better than modern stuff for no valid reason other than sentimental value is often associated with it. As a professional computer toucher myself, he seems like a developer or programmer by his personality. I'd guess he was given a wooden box of tools by his grandpa or something and maybe has some sentimental connection by using them? I have no idea. His bits were loose in a cigar box and he didn't even have a chuck key to tighten his bit which is why it fell off.

I 100% thought he was going to break through the round rungs of the ladder because they were flexing under his feet. When he tried drilling over his head with both hands on a wobbly ladder, I nearly went home.

I'm not trying to be an "alpha" guy or anything but watching someone do something so poorly and wrong is difficult to watch, and being stubborn to admit he needed help. I had other stuff to do that day so I just wanted it done. The other neighbors made a spectacle of it and all came out to watch/stand around and provide useless input. He just wanted to take charge for some reason. Hes quiet, but had a lot of opinions and any time I suggested something he has hesitation. It was weird. I would've had it done in 5-10 minutes on my own. It took more than an hour and hanging it twice because he insisted on the location the first time. People are strange :shrug:

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Verman posted:

His bits were loose in a cigar box and he didn't even have a chuck key to tighten his bit which is why it fell off.

lol he literally never tried to use this before.

Verman posted:

I'm not trying to be an "alpha" guy or anything but watching someone do something so poorly and wrong is difficult to watch, and being stubborn to admit he needed help.

You're not. This is one of the most painful software guy/never did anything with their hands kind of thing to watch. They saw some social media video about it, so they must know how to use the tools mom gave them when they moved out (from great gramps, mom was looking to free up space but didn't have the heart to pitch this garbage). (note: I have my grandfathers tools including the brace and bits, and now have picked up my wife's grandfathers brace and bits. I do not try to use them, I'm making sure they are in a place that will make it easy for my children to send to scrap metal recycling)

CarForumPoster
Jun 26, 2013

⚡POWER⚡

Verman posted:

The main trunk was topped a long time ago around 15'. The other 120 feet are all spurs that grew out of it. There were two that were 90% rotten at the base where they met the primary trunk. It's an absolute miracle they didn't come down in a wind storm. This is probably 24" wide and was about 100' tall.



My confidence is restored with this crew and I'm happy the project is continuing because the permit process has a limited time frame and the other companies are booked at least 5-6 weeks out which would probably lapse with our window.

It's been quite a week.

Glad it worked out! (let us know if they bs you with the quote)

Cyrano4747
Sep 25, 2006

Yes, I know I'm old, get off my fucking lawn so I can yell at these clouds.

Verman posted:


I'm not trying to be an "alpha" guy or anything

Nah, you're fine on that regard. There's a lot of cultural baggage out there of what it means to "be a man" and a lot of people just have this assumption that certain skills are your natural right as the bearer of a pair of testicles. I've seen the same thing with guns and cars, too. If you don't know how to change a carburetor, sweat copper, and clean a shotgun you're basically not a man at all. I saw this all the loving time in college with people who would get themselves backed into trying to change some girl's oil because of course I know, I'm a guy right? (is a computer nerd that has no loving clue), and to a lesser extent I've seen it with suburban 30-somethings who own their first home and gently caress, my dad could remove the trap on the sink to clear a clog so CLEARLY this is something I should just be able to yolo.

It's a dumb situation where people feel like they need to act like they know how to do these things and can't ask for help because of what being able to replace a faucet or whatever symbolizes in their head.

Hadlock
Nov 9, 2004

Motronic posted:

garbage). (note: I have my grandfathers tools including the brace and bits, and now have picked up my wife's grandfathers brace and bits. I do not try to use them, I'm making sure they are in a place that will make it easy for my children to send to scrap metal recycling)

Do your kids a favor like my late uncle did and keep all your sentimental stuff in a 40' container so it can be shipped directly to the landfill

I feel awful throwing out 500 lbs of rusty vintage bear traps(?!) and 50 year old ammo reloading equipment but the eBay value of the stuff just isn't worth the trip and time out there to sort through it all

GlyphGryph
Jun 23, 2013

Down came the glitches and burned us in ditches and we slept after eating our dead.
I like being woefully incompetent with my hand tools, so I can't really dis anyone for using them even if they're bad at it. I built a set of shelves a while back using nothing but an old hand saw, drill, and a set of chisels. Was it a good shelf? Not particularly, no. Did I have a great time making it without any power tools or screws or nails? Yes.

But I also have a power drill because sometimes you just want to put a hole in something and be done with it. (or you have a project that's already big enough without making it harder, like the gate/sign combo I am constructing construct for my housewarming party this weekend and the box full of screws that will be involved in assembling it. Now I just need to find a place where I can get a couple gallons of methanol on short notice for the finishing touches. Automative store, I guess?)

Good news: I got the new well filtration system installed, and they replaced my tank and a whole bunch of my pipes too, which means I have gone from having zero functioning water cutoff valves to having five, depending on where in the system I want the water to stop going. Probably a bit overkill, but whatever.

Not good news: It looks like the toilet/plumbing/septic problems are almost certainly in the pipes themselves and not the septic, but the guy I had by to look at it (a plumber that lives next door and said he'd take a gander for free) said he couldn't do much more than that because where the pipes go (other than eventually to the septic system) is a bit of a mystery, and the normal plumbing access a house would have is apparently not something my house has? But he said the solution was probably just getting someone to come by and route the pipes, so that's my next step there. Also he agrees that the toilets are garbage and he too would replace them even if the routing fixed the problem. Also, he confirms the 2x4s under the sink are in fact structural and the whole sink will collapse and likely damaged part of the counter as well if they get dislodged, so need to make sure I don't do that until I get that fixed.

runawayturtles
Aug 2, 2004

Shifty Pony posted:

would an air defector for mini-split units like this work?

Maybe with a small fan?

Hmm, possibly, though I'm not exactly sure how it could be attached. Also, while the design is different from others I've seen, it still seems to be intended to redirect air up/down and not left/right.

DELETE CASCADE
Oct 25, 2017

i haven't washed my penis since i jerked it to a phtotograph of george w. bush in 2003
eggbeater drills are cool but yankee style push drills are even cooler, especially if the spiral is exposed

Arsenic Lupin
Apr 12, 2012

This particularly rapid💨 unintelligible 😖patter💁 isn't generally heard🧏‍♂️, and if it is🤔, it doesn't matter💁.


Braces and bits are elegant. Me, I use an impact driver.

Canine Blues Arooo
Jan 7, 2008

when you think about it...i'm the first girl you ever spent the night with

Grimey Drawer
I need advice from the folks here:

Our house is a remodeled church from the 60s. It's very cool, but understanding how proceed to get work down is...tough.

The current issue: There are two floors - the main and the basement. The main floor has a couple lofts built on it. One of the lofts has a large support beam coming down to the main floor. The main floor is entirely spancrete, and we want to put some kind of support right below this in the basement as there is none. The basement is currently is unfinished, and part of finishing it is thinking about adding this support structure.

My question is this: Who do I call to answer the questions around this? "Should we add a support? How do we add a support? Do I need to prepare the basement somehow? Can I just throw cinder blocks between the spancrete and the basement floor?" A general contractor is right out, but looking around, I can't really find a 'concrete floor and building expert' as a trade. Is there a specific kind of skillset or contractor I should call about this?

Verman
Jul 4, 2005
Third time is a charm right?
The wood hauling crew came for a pickup today. Nice guy, had two machines, a motorized tracked wheelbarrow and a dingo walk behind mini skid steer with a grabber on the end for heavy rounds. I would love to have one of those things but I have zero need.

I took the fence panel out to give them an easier entrance. They even replaced the fence when they left (I was at the office). I will say I was much less nervous about their work.

Fingers crossed for Thursday and Friday when the tree crew returns.

Shifty Pony
Dec 28, 2004

Up ta somethin'


Canine Blues Arooo posted:

I need advice from the folks here:

Our house is a remodeled church from the 60s. It's very cool, but understanding how proceed to get work down is...tough.

The current issue: There are two floors - the main and the basement. The main floor has a couple lofts built on it. One of the lofts has a large support beam coming down to the main floor. The main floor is entirely spancrete, and we want to put some kind of support right below this in the basement as there is none. The basement is currently is unfinished, and part of finishing it is thinking about adding this support structure.

My question is this: Who do I call to answer the questions around this? "Should we add a support? How do we add a support? Do I need to prepare the basement somehow? Can I just throw cinder blocks between the spancrete and the basement floor?" A general contractor is right out, but looking around, I can't really find a 'concrete floor and building expert' as a trade. Is there a specific kind of skillset or contractor I should call about this?

You probably need a full blown structural engineer to take a look at it. Some specialize in the renovation of historic buildings.

The floor being spancrete will help significantly since that's a nice well documented structural element and not some strange bespoke design that they would have to spend significant amounts of time investigating. It probably won't be cheap though.

That house sounds pretty rad, how much of the church feel is still present?

Beef Of Ages
Jan 11, 2003

Your dumb is leaking.

Canine Blues Arooo posted:


My question is this: Who do I call to answer the questions around this?

Yup, structural engineer. They can tell you what is needed (or not) and the recommended way(s) to go about it. That will help narrow down what sort of trade/contractor you need.

Zarin
Nov 11, 2008

I SEE YOU

Canine Blues Arooo posted:

I need advice from the folks here:

Our house is a remodeled church from the 60s. It's very cool, but understanding how proceed to get work down is...tough.

The current issue: There are two floors - the main and the basement. The main floor has a couple lofts built on it. One of the lofts has a large support beam coming down to the main floor. The main floor is entirely spancrete, and we want to put some kind of support right below this in the basement as there is none. The basement is currently is unfinished, and part of finishing it is thinking about adding this support structure.

My question is this: Who do I call to answer the questions around this? "Should we add a support? How do we add a support? Do I need to prepare the basement somehow? Can I just throw cinder blocks between the spancrete and the basement floor?" A general contractor is right out, but looking around, I can't really find a 'concrete floor and building expert' as a trade. Is there a specific kind of skillset or contractor I should call about this?

Jesus.

No, I mean, like, maybe call him. The Good Book says he was a carpenter but I bet he had some engineering chops.

This may depend on how much stained glass is still there. I got the impression from my reading that he was pretty low-key and chill but I figure more stained glass never hurt anyone (only their utility bills)

Zarin
Nov 11, 2008

I SEE YOU

Verman posted:

The wood hauling crew came for a pickup today. Nice guy, had two machines, a motorized tracked wheelbarrow and a dingo walk behind mini skid steer with a grabber on the end for heavy rounds. I would love to have one of those things but I have zero need.

I took the fence panel out to give them an easier entrance. They even replaced the fence when they left (I was at the office). I will say I was much less nervous about their work.

Fingers crossed for Thursday and Friday when the tree crew returns.

Wait . . . you . . . let them . . . take? . . . the wood?

:confused:

:psyduck:

But, think of all the bonfires . . . . :smith:

Toaster Beef
Jan 23, 2007

that's not nature's way
some men just don't want to watch the world burn

Verman
Jul 4, 2005
Third time is a charm right?
I already have a lot of wood for bonfires from a few of the other trees we've had work done to or removed, and better wood.

This is all Lombardy poplar. It's poo poo. When it's dry and seasoned it feels like balsa wood, plus it burns so fast it's not great for fires. We live in an urban/suburban area so I'm not having raging bonfires often, we just have a medium size solo stove. The amount of wood is also shocking. I would lose my entire yard if I kept it. And that was just from one tree. The next one would bury my yard in logs.

If I lived somewhere people go camping I'd sell that poo poo for $5 a bundle.

Canine Blues Arooo
Jan 7, 2008

when you think about it...i'm the first girl you ever spent the night with

Grimey Drawer

Shifty Pony posted:

You probably need a full blown structural engineer to take a look at it. Some specialize in the renovation of historic buildings.

The floor being spancrete will help significantly since that's a nice well documented structural element and not some strange bespoke design that they would have to spend significant amounts of time investigating. It probably won't be cheap though.

That house sounds pretty rad, how much of the church feel is still present?

This is good advice! I'll seek out a structural engineer!

The house is really cool. The main floor is basically one giant open area with 25ft~ cathedral ceilings at their peek with a bunch of beautiful woodwork for the curve supports / ceiling. The lofts are just defacto offices that look over the main floor. That part is very churchy, and I love it.

Also very churchy from the 60s is an unfinished basement who's floor is almost certainly asbestos tiling, so... That's another project for future me.

100 HOGS AGREE
Oct 13, 2007
Grimey Drawer
Today is insulation day and the contractors are late. I'm not fussed about it because I've come to expect it with these guys. It's on them if they're gonna be here late in the day or have to come back tomorrow, I'm not paying them by the hour.

Quaint Quail Quilt
Jun 19, 2006


Ask me about that time I told people mixing bleach and vinegar is okay

Canine Blues Arooo posted:

Also very churchy from the 60s is an unfinished basement who's floor is almost certainly asbestos tiling, so... That's another project for future me.
If the tile isn't cracking or chipped or obviously worn to end of life I'd keep it.

A lot of K-mart/Kroger style stores had asbestos tile because it stands up to traffic the best out of any tile (I think)

If it's in poor shape that's a whole different story and matching it may suck.

dxt
Mar 27, 2004
METAL DISCHARGE
With all the energy talk I finally got around to schedule a home energy audit, the next available appointment isn't until October :negative:

100 HOGS AGREE
Oct 13, 2007
Grimey Drawer
The contractor is telling me that doing more than 6.5" of cellulose insulation may have some weight issues for the ceiling drywall, i'm having trouble finding anything about this anyone got any advice on it?

Canine Blues Arooo
Jan 7, 2008

when you think about it...i'm the first girl you ever spent the night with

Grimey Drawer

Quaint Quail Quilt posted:

If the tile isn't cracking or chipped or obviously worn to end of life I'd keep it.

A lot of K-mart/Kroger style stores had asbestos tile because it stands up to traffic the best out of any tile (I think)

If it's in poor shape that's a whole different story and matching it may suck.

It's damaged in places and makes me very nervous. Getting all the tiling in the basement removed professionally would cost about 20k so uh.... gently caress. The plan right now I think is to put wood veneer over it and pretend it doesn't exist...

100 HOGS AGREE
Oct 13, 2007
Grimey Drawer
I found my answer,

https://www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/article/will-thick-cellulose-cause-your-ceiling-to-sag



I have 16" spans on the joists so it should more than handle it, I talked to the guy and he's getting enough for the full 18" like I want. gonna have R-60 up there aw yeaaaah.

Arsenic Lupin
Apr 12, 2012

This particularly rapid💨 unintelligible 😖patter💁 isn't generally heard🧏‍♂️, and if it is🤔, it doesn't matter💁.


Canine Blues Arooo posted:

It's damaged in places and makes me very nervous. Getting all the tiling in the basement removed professionally would cost about 20k so uh.... gently caress. The plan right now I think is to put wood veneer over it and pretend it doesn't exist...

Genuine ignorance: what's wrong with that? AFAIK undisturbed asbestos can't get into your lungs and you're perfectly safe.

Canine Blues Arooo
Jan 7, 2008

when you think about it...i'm the first girl you ever spent the night with

Grimey Drawer

Arsenic Lupin posted:

Genuine ignorance: what's wrong with that? AFAIK undisturbed asbestos can't get into your lungs and you're perfectly safe.

I actually don't know if anything is necessarily wrong with that - it's a question I need to get answered definitively, but I'm not there in that process yet. Someone probably knows more about the nuances of asbestos then I do because my knowledge begins and ends at, 'Asbestos, bad'.

GlyphGryph
Jun 23, 2013

Down came the glitches and burned us in ditches and we slept after eating our dead.
getting my pipes cleared is a lot more expensive than I thought it was going to be, huh.

Hopefully this actually fixes the issues, if it doesn't I get to look into septic system repairs which I don't want to have to do hah

Motronic
Nov 6, 2009

Canine Blues Arooo posted:

I actually don't know if anything is necessarily wrong with that - it's a question I need to get answered definitively, but I'm not there in that process yet. Someone probably knows more about the nuances of asbestos then I do because my knowledge begins and ends at, 'Asbestos, bad'.

That type of asbestos is not very friable (so its very low risk) and is typically remediated by "encapsulation" - i.e., cover it with other flooring. If it's fine you can absolutely just leave it alone.

Reason for encapsulation is that removal requires breaking it up and get particles airborne, making a benign installation into an active hazard. Often times the mastic they are adhered to the floor with also has asbestos, so it's just a big mess to undo, and very not worth the risks involved.

right arm
Oct 30, 2011

installed a toto washlet. heated water and seat :lfgoo:

Dr. Eldarion
Mar 21, 2001

Deal Dispatcher

right arm posted:

installed a toto washlet. heated water and seat :lfgoo:

Aww hell yeah. Need to get someone out here to put an outlet in so we can get one.

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Tristesse
Feb 23, 2006

Chasing the dream.
Well two years into owning a home I got to make my first claim with homeowners insurance.

My husband was upstairs taking a shower and I was downstairs working in my office. I heard a suspicious dripping noise from the kitchen and found water was leaking from our cabinets somehow. This was awesome because the cabinets are crappy 90s particle board so the one where the leak is has already disintegrated.

So we call a bunch of friends and one knows a plumber he thinks can help and another knows a contractor. We call both and the contractor shows up first. He immediately starts taking pictures and breaks out a thermal camera to try and find the source of the leak which he narrows down pretty fast. The plumber gets here, they confer and a hole is cut where the contractor thinks the leak is- he's right! They find a crack in a drainpipe. So plumber calls his boss to get us a quote to fix the leak and the contractor starts taking pictures for the insurance claim. Boss says $1600. Contractor (who is a friend of a friend that I've seen around but didn't really know) takes us aside and advises this is a rip off. We tell the plumber thanks but no thanks. The guy who showed up was really nice and even gave us a can of flex seal but then the boss calls and cusses out my husband for wasting his guy's time. Contractor offers to fix the leak for $200 bucks and does it in about 10 minutes with about 30 bucks worth of parts.

So yeah, glad my friend's friend is a real upstanding guy and for saving us from being ripped off he gets first dibs on the kitchen remodel.

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