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Clark Nova posted:This is apparently the original way it was done, before anyone even sold tubeless presta valves. Did they run homemade sealant back then? Did sealant predate rim tape and tubeless valves?
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Jul 26, 2023 16:08
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kimbo305 posted:Did they run homemade sealant back then? Did sealant predate rim tape and tubeless valves? Maybe just the automotive fix-a-flat that's been around for a long time??
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Jul 26, 2023 16:22
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kimbo305 posted:Did they run homemade sealant back then? Did sealant predate rim tape and tubeless valves? Sealant existed for use inside tubes for at least a decade before I heard of tubeless.
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Jul 26, 2023 17:35
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kimbo305 posted:Did they run homemade sealant back then? Did sealant predate rim tape and tubeless valves? I actually don't know. A people's history of early tubeless experimetation and mtbr forums homebrew stuff would actually be really interesting to me (and probably like three other other people)
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Jul 26, 2023 17:43
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I bought new clipless pedals to replace the flats on my road bike today  I can't get one of the old pedals off though  I tried most everything available to me:
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Jul 26, 2023 20:24
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If you only have a normal wrench that's not that long you can try sticking something on it like a chunk of pvc pipe to make it longer so you get more torque If it wasn't properly lubricated and it's stuck on you could try wd40 or something
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Jul 26, 2023 20:29
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-Anders posted:I bought new clipless pedals to replace the flats on my road bike today If you're REALLY REALLY sure you're turning it the right way, you can use a piece of pipe or similar as a cheater bar to get more leverage. I would not recommend doing this on pedals that use a 6mm hex bolt but on an 8mm hex you should be fine. Also heat etc but that's "pay a bike shop" territory for me.
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Jul 26, 2023 20:31
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My money is on turning it the wrong way.
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Jul 26, 2023 20:34
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-Anders posted:I bought new clipless pedals to replace the flats on my road bike today Park Tool just went over this https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ljr6xSHGz7k&pp=ygUJcGFyayB0b29s
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Jul 26, 2023 20:35
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a loathsome bird posted:If you're REALLY REALLY sure you're turning it the right way, you can use a piece of pipe or similar as a cheater bar to get more leverage. I would not recommend doing this on pedals that use a 6mm hex bolt but on an 8mm hex you should be fine. Also heat etc but that's "pay a bike shop" territory for me. I hadn't thought about using heat, so I got out my little kitchen blowtorch - and it worked Thanks for the advice everyone 
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Jul 26, 2023 20:48
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evil_bunnY posted:That's every sports/literbike ever and it's fine. It's down to design/implementation more that configuration. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ggMO-AV5RpE drat, this thing looks sick as hell. Apparently you can get dual rotor hubs instead of doing the CNC yourself, but right now the only option appears to be Aliexpress. Maybe it's something we'll see more of in the future as e-bikes become more common.
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Jul 26, 2023 21:13
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Clark Nova posted:I actually don't know. A people's history of early tubeless experimetation and mtbr forums homebrew stuff would actually be really interesting to me (and probably like three other other people) Not looked deeply yet, but I found this: https://thegravelride.bike/orange-seal-the-ins-and-outs-of-tire-sealant-with-john-vargus quote:The process started about two years ahead of [founding of company in 2011].
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Jul 26, 2023 21:59
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Looking around at M820 brakes it seems like its most commonly sold as a pre-bled set of caliper, hose, and lever. Is there a way to shorten the cables without spraying oil everywhere? I thought it would be easier to sell it as individual parts, or at least ship it with the oil in a bottle?
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Jul 26, 2023 23:59
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amenenema posted:Yes and yes. It's cheap, why risk leaks/hassle? Well it looked easy and people say “oh yeah this works ever time even with rim/wheel combinations that I couldn’t get to seal any other way.” e: example guide Buuuuuuut the catch is that it’s more prone to failure and a huge pain to fix when it does. kimbo305 posted:Not looked deeply yet, but I found this: UST tubeless hit the market in 1999. Stan’s started in 2001. Platystemon fucked around with this message at 07:38 on Jul 27, 2023 |
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Jul 27, 2023 00:02
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Salt Fish posted:Looking around at M820 brakes it seems like its most commonly sold as a pre-bled set of caliper, hose, and lever. Is there a way to shorten the cables without spraying oil everywhere? I thought it would be easier to sell it as individual parts, or at least ship it with the oil in a bottle? Yeah. Buy a kit with the line connected to the caliper but not connected to the lever. This might be the only way they sell it anyway. Install the callipers and run the lines to figure out the length. Slide the rubber boot down the hose at this time. Mark the length Carefully cut the tubing while while holding it upright, with something like a razor blade against a block of wood. The system is now open to the air, but because it is held upright and thanks to capillary action, oil stays inside. Hold the line in something like vice grips, with a rag to protect the tube from the jaws. Hammer the barb in in with a mallet. The barb will displace some oil as it goes in. Insert the tube into the lever, which in the two‐piece prebled Shimano kits, already has a brass olive inside. Use an open end wrench to tighten the nut, deforming the olive and making a tight seal. Do this to the specified torque, or, lacking an appropriate torque wrench, till only three threads are showing. If you’ve done this right, the system will still be full of oil and will not need to be bled. If the callipers and lever have already been connected to each other, you might be able to follow this same basic procedure with a new barb and new olive to shorten the hose, but chances of losing oil and needing to bleed afterward are higher. Here’s a web page talking about shortening Shimano hydraulic lines. It differs from what I wrote in a few minor ways, but it has illustrations that you may find helpful. Platystemon fucked around with this message at 22:37 on Jul 27, 2023 |
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Jul 27, 2023 00:11
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kimbo305 posted:Not looked deeply yet, but I found this: https://slime.com/pages/about-slime Pre-filled tubes with this stuff were the first thing I remember. Sealant probably existed for cars before bikes, so I guess people used the same stuff.
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Jul 27, 2023 10:34
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I've got some old (2005ish) DT Swiss EX4.1 rims with pre-tubeless Nobby Nic tyres and from digging around old forum posts it sounds like they might work tubeless but I've not got the time or energy to try right now. It doesn't help they're drilled for schrader.
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Jul 27, 2023 11:14
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Some people like schrader valves for tubeless conversions because their larger internal diameter allows more air through to force the beads to seat properly.
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Jul 27, 2023 11:32
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Speaking of, is the valves constantly clogging making it impossible to top up pressure without removing the core and cleaning them out just a tubeless thing or can I avoid it by getting a particular type of valve? It happens basically every time and isn't something I expected.
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Jul 27, 2023 18:20
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Where the hell is Tobin when we need him?
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Jul 27, 2023 18:24
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Slavvy posted:Speaking of, is the valves constantly clogging making it impossible to top up pressure without removing the core and cleaning them out just a tubeless thing or can I avoid it by getting a particular type of valve? It happens basically every time and isn't something I expected. If you are orienting the valve to the bottom and have a lot of sealant, that makes it easier for sealant to bounce/get sucked up into the valve when you're pumping. I usually rotate them 90deg out. Though I haven't really had a problem with them clogging to where the pump can't break the seal. wooger posted:https://slime.com/pages/about-slime interesting; I've only known Slime as a car tire brand, with what I assumed was a very different formulation/product for those tires, namely ones that are reactive/corrosive instead of just sealing. Though that last bit was second hand from mechanics who maybe just hate the mess. kimbo305 fucked around with this message at 18:43 on Jul 27, 2023 |
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Jul 27, 2023 18:39
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Slavvy posted:Speaking of, is the valves constantly clogging making it impossible to top up pressure without removing the core and cleaning them out just a tubeless thing or can I avoid it by getting a particular type of valve? It happens basically every time and isn't something I expected. It's partially why I moved all my bikes to Reserve Fillmore valves. There are a number of similar valves now, but they are so much easier to work with. Pricey, but worth it in my mind. https://bikepacking.com/gear/76-projects-hi-flow-tubeless-valves-review/ https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2KLmEYd5shI
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Jul 27, 2023 19:18
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Gave myself an ingrown thumbnail which is now infected trying to seat some new tubeless tires onto my gravel bike rims yesterday but at least I got the job done. I don't have a compressor or one of those air canister pumps, just a relatively high volume track pump which makes it a real mission. Some mtb tires I've done before were fairly easy but these 700x40 gravelking tires were waay harder. Easy to get onto the rim in the first place but impossible to seat the beads with just the track pump, had to use tire levers to manually seat the beads around about half the rim first, remove the core of the valve for extra airflow and then go completely nuts on the track pump for a while but eventually got them on and holding air. After that experience I'm definitely considering getting a cheapo compressor to sit in the corner of the garage for if I have to do it again...
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Jul 27, 2023 21:22
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I could use some help to pick the right replacement brake pads. I have single piston Shimano Deore hydraulic brakes, pretty sure they're BR-M6100. Current pads are resin and don't have fins. According to this: https://productinfo.shimano.com/#/com?acid=C-652&cid=C-460 I should use G05S-RX. Am I right?
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Jul 27, 2023 22:34
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Crumps Brother posted:Where the hell is Tobin when we need him? Stan’s sealant and regular Presta valves are good enough.
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Jul 28, 2023 00:23
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Blink twice if you’re unsafe
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Jul 28, 2023 00:25
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Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:Blink twice if you’re unsafe One layer of gorilla tape works wonders.
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Jul 28, 2023 00:33
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My orange seal arrived today, and tomorrow I get schrader valves (and 3M 8992). 
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Jul 28, 2023 00:34
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The Wiggly Wizard posted:I could use some help to pick the right replacement brake pads. I have single piston Shimano Deore hydraulic brakes, pretty sure they're BR-M6100. Current pads are resin and don't have fins. Yep if you want to stay with resin pads.
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Jul 28, 2023 00:43
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TobinHatesYou posted:One layer of gorilla tape works wonders. I thought about using gorilla tape to build up wheel and close that bead float gap. I hate gorilla tape enough for ordinary uses, but it’s reasonably cheap and thick and other people have already used it in tires, so we know how it performs in that environment—not great, but not catastrophically failing, either.
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Jul 28, 2023 08:10
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Literally Lewis Hamilton posted:Blink twice if you’re unsafe He's just getting delirious from all the extra riding time enabled by the Fillmores.
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Jul 28, 2023 12:42
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Platystemon posted:I thought about using gorilla tape to build up wheel and close that bead float gap. I have a pair of tubeless gorilla taped not tubeless compatible wheels and they work but I’m dreading the day I need to replace the tape. Residue everywhere.
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Jul 28, 2023 13:14
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Is it supposed to be really hard to index a rear derailleur? I've been following the video and written guides from Park tool for how to adjust my rear derailleur, but so far I've spent a couple of hours and haven't gotten it right just yet. I'm pretty confident that the upper and lower limits are set correctly, and the hanger doesn't seem bent out of shape. I can't get the indexing to fit through all ten of the rear cogs. If I get it right for the smaller cogs, then the upper ones will make noise and the middle ones sometimes won't change, so I'll need to double-tap to get it to change over. If I get the bigger cogs right, then the situation reverses. 
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Jul 28, 2023 13:33
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-Anders posted:Is it supposed to be really hard to index a rear derailleur? Your hanger is not perfectly straight. Looking at it isn't good enough to tell. Or just move to friction shifting, then you don't have to care about an aligned hanger.
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Jul 28, 2023 13:41
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Buy a new derailleur hanger. Either it fixes your problem, or you have a spare that everyone should have.
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Jul 28, 2023 13:43
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Platystemon posted:Some people like schrader valves for tubeless conversions because their larger internal diameter allows more air through to force the beads to seat properly. Any recommendations as to which tubeless schrader valves? There don't seem to be many options and they're almost all brands I either don't recognize or know to be cheap tat.
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Jul 28, 2023 15:28
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Stan's sells schrader valves if you want to have name brand
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Jul 28, 2023 15:34
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Blackhawk posted:Gave myself an ingrown thumbnail which is now infected trying to seat some new tubeless tires onto my gravel bike rims yesterday but at least I got the job done. I don't have a compressor or one of those air canister pumps, just a relatively high volume track pump which makes it a real mission. Some mtb tires I've done before were fairly easy but these 700x40 gravelking tires were waay harder. I'm in the same boat, but was even lazier and used a tube to seat the tire. Then I plan to remove the tube, obviously leaving only one side of the tire seated. A problem appeared in the form of being unable to break the tire bead off of the rim. No wood block in the vise, c-clamps, nothing. It was on and not coming off. I resorted to using 2 channel locks with old inner tube wrapped over the jaws to pull/pry the bead free. I worked it as slowly as I could and hoped for no tire damage. I reseated the tire with the tube again, and this time I was able to release the bead with my hands, but it was an effort. I did this to see if I could do a tube swap on a ride if the sealant does not work. The tire was a Vittoria N.ext 28mm on Giant 38mm carbon rims. With the sealant in, they hold pressure extremely well. I suppose I should do a check soon to see if I can still break the seal by hand. Otherwise I'll be call Mrs. rear end Trophy for a ride home at some point.
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Jul 28, 2023 23:43
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Cat rear end Trophy posted:I'm in the same boat, but was even lazier and used a tube to seat the tire. Then I plan to remove the tube, obviously leaving only one side of the tire seated. A problem appeared in the form of being unable to break the tire bead off of the rim. No wood block in the vise, c-clamps, nothing. It was on and not coming off. I resorted to using 2 channel locks with old inner tube wrapped over the jaws to pull/pry the bead free. I worked it as slowly as I could and hoped for no tire damage. I reseated the tire with the tube again, and this time I was able to release the bead with my hands, but it was an effort. I did this to see if I could do a tube swap on a ride if the sealant does not work. Get some tyre plugs (dynaplug) and don’t consider removing your tyres till they’re worn out, unless you’re in the wilderness somewhere and have a disaster.
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Jul 29, 2023 09:00
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Is this bad derailleur setup? (Sound on) Pedaling forwards (and ramp up) https://youtube.com/shorts/4fS8z1BaNBE?feature=share Pedaling backwards (chain hop) https://youtube.com/shorts/wfC5cyy-UuE?feature=share I failed to check the LBS had resolved this noise when I picked it up. They fixed another issue, but not this.
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Jul 30, 2023 02:10
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