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Yeah, I think you just mash it. No way around it.
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Jul 26, 2023 21:24
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One of the DRLs on my BMW E92 has started to only work intermittently. It will work for 20 minutes or so, then my car will go BRRINNGG and it will either dimly flicker or go out entirely for a while until it kicks back on. Its a high-end LED aftermarket replacement I installed only a few years ago, so it would be extremely surprising if it were the bulb. Is there a good way for a non-electronically inclined person to test to see if its just the bulb or a deeper issue with the electrics?
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Jul 27, 2023 02:03
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KOTEX GOD OF BLOOD posted:One of the DRLs on my BMW E92 has started to only work intermittently. It will work for 20 minutes or so, then my car will go BRRINNGG and it will either dimly flicker or go out entirely for a while until it kicks back on. Its a high-end LED aftermarket replacement I installed only a few years ago, so it would be extremely surprising if it were the bulb. Is there a good way for a non-electronically inclined person to test to see if its just the bulb or a deeper issue with the electrics? Take the bulbs out and put it in the other side. If the problem follows your bulb, it's the bulb. For what it's worth it sounds like a bulb to me, yes I know you got the cool high end one but... yeah. There's only so much that can go wrong, I wouldn't worry about digging into it too much until you've conclusively determined the bulb isn't the issue.
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Jul 27, 2023 02:07
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the PO of my FiST put high end LED headlights in it with purported decades of longevity and they both went out on me in the past year
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Jul 27, 2023 03:12
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hedgegnome posted:hi! so i think i have a bad head gasket on my 318 (68 barracuda). i got 30 psi on the compression check for cylinder 7, 120 on everything else.. so i pulled the intake off today with the plan being to get the heads off. i really dont want to pull the engine, im not set up well for doing that.. it still ran ok, so if i can get away with just a head gasket and head work ill be happy. don't just rely on compression numbers, do a leakdown test. find where the air is escaping. do that before you pull the head. the coolant in your valley is just from taking off the intake, and some of it could have ended up in the oil pan through the oil return holes, so that won't tell you anything. you'll have to change your oil anyway before you run it because of the coolant that's now in it.
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Jul 27, 2023 08:31
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Ok Comboomer posted:the PO of my FiST put high end LED headlights in it with purported decades of longevity and they both went out on me in the past year Well yeah, theyre non OEM LEDs. I have yet to see any non OEM LED assembly priced in normal people ranges, that is not worse than the factory setup.
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Jul 27, 2023 15:27
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The FiST also has quite bad factory reflectors, even for the halogen bulbs they're designed for, so slapping LEDs in to them that emit an entirely different light pattern is very likely to result in even worse beam patterns than stock. The right answer is always retrofits, but as an added bonus the lights are permasealed and so large that they don't even fit in a lot of ovens so its a massive pain in the rear end to get them open.
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Jul 27, 2023 16:50
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hedgegnome posted:hi! so i think i have a bad head gasket on my 318 (68 barracuda). i got 30 psi on the compression check for cylinder 7, 120 on everything else Seconding Raluek. A leak-down test will also tell you whether its rings. If it doesnt change on the wet test, it may be the head gasketbut it also might be a burned & cracked exhaust valve. My 65 Furys 383 was notorious for burning exhaust valves on #7 and #8 - all the way at the back. I had perennial issues with overheating while sitting, and this would eventually cook the valves when I was stuck in traffic.
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Jul 27, 2023 17:42
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Hi, I have a 2010 prius and it's not starting properly. When I do the standard procedure (brake down + press start button) the electricals will kick on, but the engine won't seem to activate, and the electricals seem really weak. the MFD has all alert lights on even if it doesn't make sense, brightness is intermittent and dims down and turning on hazards causes them to almost black out in time with the hazards engaging and disengaging. Head unit doesn't turn on, fans are blowing but I can't turn them off, and the windows are verrrrryyy slow. It's also hot as poo poo here, wondering if that's a mjor contributing factor, though I've had it on days jut as hot without it being an issue. Advice? Possible problems?
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Jul 27, 2023 19:03
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Babysitter Super Sleuth posted:Hi, I have a 2010 prius and it's not starting properly. When I do the standard procedure (brake down + press start button) the electricals will kick on, but the engine won't seem to activate, and the electricals seem really weak. the MFD has all alert lights on even if it doesn't make sense, brightness is intermittent and dims down and turning on hazards causes them to almost black out in time with the hazards engaging and disengaging. Head unit doesn't turn on, fans are blowing but I can't turn them off, and the windows are verrrrryyy slow. It's also hot as poo poo here, wondering if that's a mjor contributing factor, though I've had it on days jut as hot without it being an issue. Advice? Possible problems? I'm not a Prius wizard, but all of these symptoms point to a weak 12v battery. When's the last time that was replaced? I'd get that checked / charged / replaced and see if the other symptoms persist.
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Jul 27, 2023 19:16
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Safety Dance posted:I'm not a Prius wizard, but all of these symptoms point to a weak 12v battery. When's the last time that was replaced? I'd get that checked / charged / replaced and see if the other symptoms persist. I haven't touched the 12v since I bought the thing, that would ideally be the simplest and least painful solution but I know there's atypical stuff going on with the full hybrid battery handing stuff the 12v normally does on conventional cars. I sure as poo poo hope that isn't the problem, cause I was getting no warnings on that and it's a much more expensive problem.
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Jul 27, 2023 19:20
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Just spent 90 mins with my head crammed in the footwell of my kids Fiesta changing the cabin air filter and the AC resistor module. Good grief. It was impossible to get even my tiny ratchet up there so I had to unscrew/screw most of the screws by just holding the T20 screw bit on a small extension. Its extra fun only being able to fit one hand up there too. *changes cabin filter reminder in phone from every year to every 3*
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Jul 27, 2023 19:28
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^^^ every 3 years seems excessive for a CAF anywayBabysitter Super Sleuth posted:I haven't touched the 12v since I bought the thing, that would ideally be the simplest and least painful solution but I know there's atypical stuff going on with the full hybrid battery handing stuff the 12v normally does on conventional cars. I sure as poo poo hope that isn't the problem, cause I was getting no warnings on that and it's a much more expensive problem. Lead acid batteries are dumb and so they can't really provide any data or information to the car's electronic systems. Step one with any kind of weird electrical symptoms in modern cars is replace the battery if it hasn't been done recently. I will guess, with 99.5% confidence, that replacing the 12V battery will solve your problem
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Jul 27, 2023 19:42
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CAFs need replacement a little less often than I assumed, because the airflow is just not as much as home HVAC even if you drive a lot. Granted people absolutely never replace them until upsold at Jiffy Lube, so if you buy a 5 year old used car get it changed, but every couple 10k miles should be fine or less often if stale air doesn't bother you.
Inner Light fucked around with this message at 19:53 on Jul 27, 2023 |
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Jul 27, 2023 19:49
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Babysitter Super Sleuth posted:Hi, I have a 2010 prius and it's not starting properly. When I do the standard procedure (brake down + press start button) the electricals will kick on, but the engine won't seem to activate, and the electricals seem really weak. the MFD has all alert lights on even if it doesn't make sense, brightness is intermittent and dims down and turning on hazards causes them to almost black out in time with the hazards engaging and disengaging. Head unit doesn't turn on, fans are blowing but I can't turn them off, and the windows are verrrrryyy slow. It's also hot as poo poo here, wondering if that's a mjor contributing factor, though I've had it on days jut as hot without it being an issue. Advice? Possible problems? Another vote for 12v battery replacement.
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Jul 27, 2023 19:53
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https://i.imgur.com/yXw9lAF.jpg Hi thread, here is my left front wheel of a 2013 Audi A4 with about 100k on the clock. I'm getting a nasty rattling / knocking sound whenever the brake is pressed in like 25%-75% and the wheel hits any kind of bump, and I also hear the knocking when turning the steering wheel and especially turning while braking. Upper control arms were replaced awhile back so those should be fine, lowers look fine as well, no breaks in the rubber bushings. I suspect something is broken or somebody screwed up my brake job about a year ago, and a bolt just started coming loose. It seems the brake pad is hitting the rotor properly however the positioning is suspicious, and on the top it's leaving the small (3mm ish?) un-worn part on the rotor. The passenger side front rotor is more centered and has noticeably less of that space outside the caliper/pad. Any thoughts? I am taking it to a shop tomorrow but the guy is older, I'm just trying to save some money burning huge hourly fees at the dealer ($230+/hr and they almost never give you a break on book time). We'll see what he says. Inner Light fucked around with this message at 02:19 on Jul 28, 2023 |
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Jul 28, 2023 02:15
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Inner Light posted:https://i.imgur.com/yXw9lAF.jpg Is it an optical illusion, or is there measurable space between the outer pad and the rotor in that photo? I'd start by taking that wheel off and checking for any bolts that are only finger tight.
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Jul 28, 2023 02:39
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Safety Dance posted:Is it an optical illusion, or is there measurable space between the outer pad and the rotor in that photo? I'd start by taking that wheel off and checking for any bolts that are only finger tight. Sorry probably a bad photo, I will get a better one with flash later, I just particularly noticed the larger unworn rotor space in that moment and snapped it. There is no space really between the pad and rotor and everything feels reasonably solid in braking performance. She's always been kind of a slow fat car at 3700 lbs curb weight and the pistons are big ish, but it doesn't seem like more force than usual for me to brake. Something just feels squirrelly and I can hear/feel metal knocking. I'll upload a YouTube video and we'll see if anyone can diagnose from sound. Here https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9eTSxTzIfBU Enjoy my voice I did not know this would be seen. Sadly I lack space and tools so I think I'll have to wait, it was mostly curiosity to see if I could identify it and start quoting a repair but I think a lift will make it obvious hopefully once it's up tomorrow. It sounds/feels like a suspension component is not happy so not sure it is brakes at all. I am quite upset since I did the upper control arms as preventative maintenance just because the bushing rubber was age-cracking and the mechanic (different one years ago) upsold me and I agreed with him looking at the pics. We'll see if one of those replacements/repairs went awry perhaps. Inner Light fucked around with this message at 03:05 on Jul 28, 2023 |
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Jul 28, 2023 02:44
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Inner Light posted:Sorry probably a bad photo, I will get a better one with flash later, I just particularly noticed the larger unworn rotor space in that moment and snapped it. There is no space really between the pad and rotor and everything feels reasonably solid in braking performance. She's always been kind of a slow fat car at 3700 lbs curb weight and the pistons are big ish, but it doesn't seem like more force than usual for me to brake. Something just feels squirrelly and I can hear/feel metal knocking. I'll upload a YouTube video and we'll see if anyone can diagnose from sound. Is that getting worse or staying the same? It seems weird to me that your brakes are contacting the rotor differently from left/right sides, but I don't think it's related to the noise. Just turning the wheel left and right while stopped shouldn't really do anything to the braking components. It almost sounds like a strut or LCA or something is loose.
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Jul 28, 2023 03:34
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VelociBacon posted:Is that getting worse or staying the same? I think it's gotten worse recently! But it's possible it's been there forever and has recently gotten worse. Of course the old timer did a road test with me and said everything seemed OK, maybe I didn't reproduce it as well then. We were trying to see if it was worth the dive into diagnostic fee to get on a lift and as of now with that noise I think definitely.
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Jul 28, 2023 03:41
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Inner Light posted:I think it's gotten worse recently! But it's possible it's been there forever and has recently gotten worse. Of course the old timer did a road test with me and said everything seemed OK, maybe I didn't reproduce it as well then. We were trying to see if it was worth the dive into diagnostic fee to get on a lift and as of now with that noise I think definitely. There's a lot of options that aren't 'incompetent old man' or 'dealership', just look for a German independent shop in your area maybe.
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Jul 28, 2023 03:48
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VelociBacon posted:There's a lot of options that aren't 'incompetent old man' or 'dealership', just look for a German independent shop in your area maybe. The irony is as of right now I judge him to be very competent with the exception of thinking thats OK to carry on lol. His lifts, I think 8 or more? are jammed into his tiny shop and his team works on some cool stuff. Not a lot of openings. I am giving it a shot with them and will see if they can send a photo so I know they arent inventing work, would always politely ask for a pic with suspension stuff since its impossible for me to verify without a lift. They should be able to fix it, I just hope it isnt stupid expensive and making me regret Not A Prius. He is also conveniently located so that plays into it, few min bus ride or Uber back. There are like 2 or 3 main German shops in my immediate area within 30 or 60mins and they are usually booked for a few weeks out also. Pricing is very close to the dealer. But you do raise a good point, hopefully its not something a specialty shop can do better or would be needed for. Inner Light fucked around with this message at 04:17 on Jul 28, 2023 |
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Jul 28, 2023 04:00
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Man what a poo poo luck streak with our cars. I was driving my 2016 WRX yesterday and the mud guard in my driver side wheel well fell down and got ripped off when it dragged under the tire. One of the bolts that holds my wiper fluid reservoir up fell off as well. Good grief. Ordered a new guard and bolts to be delivered to my local dealership. https://imgur.com/a/la7dA5X The AC on my 18 Suburban, after being repaired by swapping the blower motor is now making a ton of noise and vibrating like crazy now. Im going to have to bring it back into Firestone for them to fix that poo poo again now. After I bring it into a different shop to have the struts replaced. Inner Light posted:CAFs need replacement a little less often than I assumed I typically do it once a year, just because we live in CA and have a yearly the state is on fire and ash is falling everywhere season. Henrik Zetterberg fucked around with this message at 07:17 on Jul 28, 2023 |
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Jul 28, 2023 06:52
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Henrik Zetterberg posted:
This reminds me, smoke season is about to start in Seattle so I should probably install the new cabin air filter I've been moving around my garage for the past few months.
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Jul 28, 2023 07:10
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Inner Light posted:https://i.imgur.com/yXw9lAF.jpg Im gonna guess tie rod end with 51% certainty.
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Jul 28, 2023 08:23
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lmao, borrowed a friend's multimeter to check my prius' 12v and you guys ere right - kicking back a 9.06 after sitting overnight, and it lines up since I bought this thing used 6 years ago and never swapped the battery out. Guess I'll be going to pick one up today!
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Jul 28, 2023 17:55
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Dr. Lunchables posted:Im gonna guess tie rod end with 51% certainty. I wasn't sure if I could see these looking under the car... definitely could be. Old guy said to drop it off Monday, I really hope he finds something instead of trying to sell me a CV axle replacement which I already did a while ago. And I'll pay him the $100 diag or roll it into whatever repair it ends up being. I think the most annoying experience has been "wear" parts I would expect to last 150-175k miles instead have lasted 75-100k miles, which is a significant difference in maintenance replacement interval cost. I get that Germans are going to be increased maintenance cost, but I was NOT expecting it to be due to parts simply lasting half the time of the same type of components on normal cars. Fuel injector, upper control arm bushings, lower control arm bushings, the steering rack is clicking barely noticeable for now, both front CV axles needed replaced due to burst rubber, both front wheel bearings replaced. God drat stupid expensive and for limited benefit over if I would have bought a Prius. Oh well. At least it's a nice black car. And if they have kids I am funding the mechanics' kids educations. Inner Light fucked around with this message at 18:22 on Jul 28, 2023 |
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Jul 28, 2023 18:04
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I dont know where to put this but I have an 18 ford expedition that the transmission is dying. Pops out of a specific gear. Occasional weird clinking/grinding noise. Transmission temp rode up to close to redline during normal driving.. Anyway, mechanic told me hed need to pull the whole assembly and to put in a new or remanufactured transmission in. Its expensive but whatever. My question is where the gently caress are these transmissions? Its been at the shop for a month and I still dont have an ETA on parts delivery.
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Jul 28, 2023 18:36
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Proust Malone posted:I dont know where to put this but I have an 18 ford expedition that the transmission is dying. Pops out of a specific gear. Occasional weird clinking/grinding noise. Transmission temp rode up to close to redline during normal driving.. I don't have any help for you just wanted to say sorry that is a crap situation. I wouldn't have thought 2018 parts like that for a Ford would be 30days out when buying a Ford and that just sucks. How many miles on it? Guessing over 60k as 5yr/60k is I am assuming the powertrain warranty.
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Jul 28, 2023 18:54
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Inner Light posted:I don't have any help for you just wanted to say sorry that is a crap situation. I wouldn't have thought 2018 parts like that for a Ford would be 30days out when buying a Ford and that just sucks. How many miles on it? Guessing over 60k as 5yr/60k is I am assuming the powertrain warranty. Just over 100k
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Jul 28, 2023 18:59
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Proust Malone posted:Just over 100k Independent shop or Ford, if you tried Ford did you request any out-of-warranty goodwill from them even if you bought the vehicle used? I have seen automakers give 25-50% repair assistance or something like that, I've tried it before based on the issues I mentioned upthread and sometimes had success, and found it to be worth the few min customer service call or email. Worst case is you get nothing and you're in the same spot. I like to ask the service manager if they can speak to corporate on my behalf based on the issues and see if they can work with me on anything, expecting an answer coming back that it's ineligible. Or they'll ask you to call the 800 number to request that way.
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Jul 28, 2023 19:05
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Its an an independent shop. I called the dealership where I bought it and they werent even taking in transmission services for a month. In hind sight was this maybe the reason? I did speak to the service manager and he told me there wasnt anything ge could do for me
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Jul 28, 2023 19:13
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New transmissions are on backorder. A remanufactured 10R80 should be easy to find though, there are millions of them out there. Maybe a local transmission shop can rebuild yours? I just had the cam phasers done on my 2020 (which still didn't fix the cold start rattle, probably the wastegates on the turbos), and there was another Expedition there that had been there 3 months and counting waiting on a fuel pump. Supply chain bullshit sucks.
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Jul 28, 2023 19:42
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Do you have any way to know what the back order looks like? Like I said I dont even have an ETA
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Jul 28, 2023 20:45
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I need to get two new fans (or at least one) for my SVX's radiator. It's an afermarket radiator using 14" fans, looks like the ones it came with are no-name Mishimoto knockoffs by the shape. What brands/models should I be looking at if I want good airflow but quieter than a Mishimoto straight blade knockoff? Per the FSM each fan was 165W from factory so that's something like 13A maximum per fan, although I assume starting amperage can be over that since that's just a couple seconds to spin up and then you drop down significantly to keep spinning.
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Jul 29, 2023 20:47
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What should I look out for on a high milage (200k) 5-speed IS300 aside from sticky dash, leaking timing cover, timing belt and rear main seal? It would not be my primary mode of transportation FWIW.
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Jul 29, 2023 22:01
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The trolling motor in my boat has 2 - 12 volt batteries. When I hit the "charge indicator" button on the motor it shows only about "half". I've only used the thing half a dozen times thus far and have run the main engine extensively in between so even if its a trickle charger, the hours of running the main engine should have chrged up the trolling motor batteries in the mean time. Its a 3 bank charger from Minnkota installed by the factory. So anyway, I guess the questions are: I don't recall if the trolling motor batteries are connected in Series or parallel. But if I put a volt meter on each them, would they read 12 volts or 24? Would the reading depend on how they are connected? Like if they were in series, should they read 12, but in parallel they should read 24? Or vice-versa? Or if the charge indicator is to be believed, they might read less than 12/24 I suppose. Batteries are new as of this spring and are NAPA brand FWIW. Don't recall if they are sealed or not.
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Jul 31, 2023 15:15
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Ambassadorofsodomy posted:So anyway, I guess the questions are: I don't recall if the trolling motor batteries are connected in Series or parallel. But if I put a volt meter on each them, would they read 12 volts or 24? Would the reading depend on how they are connected? Like if they were in series, should they read 12, but in parallel they should read 24? Or vice-versa? If the positive of one battery is connected to the negative of the next, they are in series. The voltage bumps up for every source, so two 12V in series = 24V. If the positives are connected together and the negatives are connected together, they are in parallel and the voltage stays the same, so the two batteries would read 12V.
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Jul 31, 2023 15:40
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Theyre probably parallel and combine for increased storage capacity at 12V. Connecting them in series would give you the sum of the voltages (12 + 12 = 24V). My guess is the scale on the charge indicator gauge is way off and when the needle points to half its actually getting like 13.5+ volts and thus youve got a full charge and youre fine. Otherwise maybe it is expecting 24 volts and the battery configuration is indeed pushing half the voltage desired. I wouldnt trust a meter that just says Empty - Half - Full, anyway, just get the uninterpreted voltage measurement. Whats the multimeter say?
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Jul 31, 2023 15:41
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Iirc it's a 24v motor so it's probably series. Haven't looked at the meter yet. Y'all are probably right though, the "gauge" is 4 bars, 2 might up when I hit the button. With engine off. Not the most accurate form of measurement.
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Jul 31, 2023 16:03
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