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Ambassadorofsodomy posted:Iirc it's a 24v motor so it's probably series. It might be designed that way to be able to alert you to an overvolt situation, I don't know anything about boats and I barely believe in electrons so vOv.
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Jul 31, 2023 17:35
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Dr. Lunchables posted:I’m gonna guess tie rod end with 51% certainty. For those following along, it indeed turned out to be likely the lower control arm bushings wearing out. Mechanic let me know when he got it on a lift, I couldn't see those control arms poking my head through or what I could see looked OK. The CV axle boot is also broken on the passenger side, which I just had replaced a year or so ago, and have not driven much. I don't understand how I have such bad luck with these. The axle itself never has issues but the boots seem to break all the time which then leads to the axle replacement. The mechanics will never OK doing just the boot. Looking like $1500-1750 damage out the door for the control arm(s) and axle. Sucks. And now I feel I should put more time into owning the car because I sunk some more cost into it. At least it's an alright vehicle.
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Jul 31, 2023 17:52
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Time to invest in a grease gun and do seasonal greasings
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Jul 31, 2023 21:16
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Further update! I told you the old man has tricks. He called back to say he has good news and bad news. Anyway long story short, some things have a little play and are kinda hosed up after either ~100,000 miles or 25k ish less. on the bushings and stuff depending on when I, apparently poorly in hindsight, chose to replace in preventative maintenance. Struts are factory. He said he found some sort of complete setup, "reconditioned", all front struts, control arms, bushings and stuff. They are used parts and he said he thinks it's a good idea as the donor shows as 40k miles, not too bad. He could pick and choose parts in a 'replace and see' regarding metal clunking noises/feelings in the cabin driving at all ranges of speeds, in certain turning/braking situations. Bunch of annoying choices. That would be tightening a very slightly loose strut bolt which for whatever reason has a threading that is improperly fastening. He would charge $150 to remake the threading and replace. Then lower control arms, maybe upper. The strut bolt thing is basically 100% certain to only cause a minority of the noises, from how he made it seem, but all I can do is trust his word on the amount of control arm play and he said it's quite a bit. When I pressed him he did say affirmatively it was getting to safety issue territory vs comfort, regarding what a mechanic would replace on their own car. Or the $1750 or whatever for the used package with cash discount. Gonna do that and see how it goes. 90day part warranty which sucks, I said that on the phone and he says yup but they should be good. I wish he was a bit more sophisticated and would road test it with an extendo-mirror-stethoscope-thing to verify exactly what is causing the specific clunking, but it's a lot to ask perhaps at their labor rates. Idk. Not a handy person sadly so leaving it to the expertise, unless I get scammed. Inner Light fucked around with this message at 03:54 on Aug 1, 2023 |
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Aug 1, 2023 03:50
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Ambassadorofsodomy posted:The trolling motor in my boat has 2 - 12 volt batteries. When I hit the "charge indicator" button on the motor it shows only about "half". To clarify a bit: when you say “if I put a volt meter on each”, if you mean you’ve got access to the battery terminals and you’d be putting the volt meter on the terminal pairs on each battery to measure the voltage, then how they are wired doesn’t matter: it should be 12 on the terminals.
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Aug 1, 2023 03:54
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Inner Light posted:Further update! I told you the old man has tricks. He called back to say he has good news and bad news. Anyway long story short, some things have a little play and are kinda hosed up after either ~100,000 miles or 25k ish less. on the bushings and stuff depending on when I, apparently poorly in hindsight, chose to replace in preventative maintenance. Struts are factory. Also based on what a goon said, I will ask the guy on the phone if he could specifically check play on the 'tie rod ends'. I am guessing he may have to remove and replace them anyway (at my expense) so if the part is cheap and it's worn, why not replace. If not included in the used part package he found. Inner Light fucked around with this message at 04:11 on Aug 1, 2023 |
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Aug 1, 2023 04:09
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Ugh lmao I had to order a new left driver-side mud guard for my WRX. It fell down while driving last week and it got ripped off after it went under a tire. Guess some clips gave out eventually. I have the new one shipped to the dealership and I went to pick it up today. Jacked my car up, took off the wheel… and realized it didn’t come with any loving clips to attach it. Now I gotta wait for Amazon to deliver my million pack since paying $4 per to Subaru is dumb.
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Aug 1, 2023 04:32
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Henrik Zetterberg posted:I have a 2016 Subaru WRX Limited that has had a driver-side rattle in the rear quarter panel for a while now due to said lack of free time because of kids. When I’m in gear (manual) and slowing down when I’m approaching a red light or whatever, something is rattling like crazy around 2400 RPM and also down around 1800. It’s driving me loving crazy and I’ve finally opened up the trunk and pulled the liners out to see what it could be. Mannnn, I’ve been tearing apart my trunk for 2 weeks now trying to find this loving rattle. I thought I had it fixed but it came back the next day. Finally, I had my kid ride in the back with the seat folded down while I drove around to try to pinpoint exactly where the noise was. He said he thought it was the wheel well. Alright then. I took the rear tire and mudguard off, and I don’t know what a vapor canister is, but I’m 99% certain I found the culprit. The clip was fine as far as keeping it attached to the bracket, but it had a bunch of play back and forth. When I jiggled it, it made a very similar sound to what I could hear while driving. I zip tied it to the bracket and I think I’ve finally got it after a test drive. https://imgur.com/a/skgNOoY
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Aug 1, 2023 18:55
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Ambassadorofsodomy posted:The trolling motor in my boat has 2 - 12 volt batteries. When I hit the "charge indicator" button on the motor it shows only about "half". What gauge is the wiring from the batteries to trolling motor, and how long is the run? Your batteries could be fine. A few years back I helped a friend diagnose poor battery life / low voltage shutdown happening on a very expensive depth finder. After consulting a voltage drop calculator, we ran heavier wiring and it fixed it right up. That was with way lower current demand than a trolling motor - but also way thinner wire. Using this one, with a 16' (one way) run of 8 AWG and a 60A draw (roughly a 1.5 HP motor), 24VDC would drop to about 22.5. 2AWG wiring in the same setup would lose less than 0.4V. You can also confirm this by checking voltage with a multimeter directly at the batteries, and checking voltage at the motor while it's running balls out in the water (and someone else is steering).
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Aug 1, 2023 23:32
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Crimp connections can loosen or corrode
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Aug 2, 2023 01:28
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Hadlock posted:Crimp connections can loosen or corrode But soldering isn't trouble free either in cars right? Also, anyone tried using brake fluid to "bleach" colored parts like turning indicator lamps. I don't really wanna try since I like the factory original orange. I just thought it sounded cool.
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Aug 2, 2023 11:15
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Henrik Zetterberg posted:Mannnn, I’ve been tearing apart my trunk for 2 weeks now trying to find this loving rattle. I thought I had it fixed but it came back the next day. That must feel good! Lots of zip ties fixing rattles in this thread lately.
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Aug 2, 2023 12:05
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Car was making an odd noise so while I was getting an oil change/alignment I had them take a look. They are saying front and rear breaks/rotors need to be replaced at the cost of $1400. I had these replaced 20k miles ago at 40k miles. Car has 60k miles on it now, mostly highway driving, although we did do a road trip with quite a bit of stuff in the car, about 2,600 miles over two weeks. I didn't have them do it, figured I'd get a second opinion, but what would I reasonably expect to pay for pad/rotor replacement for a '18 Subaru Crosstrek?
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Aug 2, 2023 14:08
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"An odd noise" is a bit vague. What is the noise? Is it proportional to vehicle speed? If it's pads/rotors related it should only occur under braking. As to pads and rotors - how long ago in years was it? I've found that since I don't drive much and the car is street parked in  that the humidity and winter salt exposure shred the rotors. I started getting pulsing under braking at four years / 20k miles, but usually rotors and pads last a lot longer than 20k miles.$1400 sounds unfortunately around market these days for that job, maybe a little steep, but you aren't gonna get away with less than about $1000 at a shop.
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Aug 2, 2023 14:20
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The Slack Lagoon posted:Car was making an odd noise so while I was getting an oil change/alignment I had them take a look. They are saying front and rear breaks/rotors need to be replaced at the cost of $1400. I had these replaced 20k miles ago at 40k miles. Car has 60k miles on it now, mostly highway driving, although we did do a road trip with quite a bit of stuff in the car, about 2,600 miles over two weeks. I didn't have them do it, figured I'd get a second opinion, but what would I reasonably expect to pay for pad/rotor replacement for a '18 Subaru Crosstrek? I asked a similar question last week after getting a very similar quote, and am gearing up to do my first DIY brake job.
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Aug 2, 2023 14:27
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KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:"An odd noise" is a bit vague. What is the noise? Is it proportional to vehicle speed? If it's pads/rotors related it should only occur under braking. It was when we had the car loaded with our road trip stuff. Mainly happened in 1/2/3 gear (manual transmission) between 1000-1300 rpm, or going up a hill in higher gear. It hasn't been happening since we've gotten home, except occasionally when we're both in the car and going up a hill, and didn't seem to happen in relation to braking at all. KYOON GRIFFEY JR posted:As to pads and rotors - how long ago in years was it? February, 2022. We put an unusually high amount of miles on the car in the last year - but most of those were also highway miles, with a drive to Michigan for a wedding in Spring 2022, and with the road trip we just did in July. As far as being in , it is street parked, but we mostly avoid stop and go traffic and I'd say 80% of our miles are typically highway with low traffic.Ok Comboomer posted:I asked a similar question last week after getting a very similar quote, and am gearing up to do my first DIY brake job. I would do this, but we only have one vehicle and my partner commutes 3 days a week so if I hosed up it would be bad for them. The Slack Lagoon fucked around with this message at 14:32 on Aug 2, 2023 |
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Aug 2, 2023 14:28
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The Slack Lagoon posted:It was when we had the car loaded with our road trip stuff. Mainly happened in 1/2/3 gear (manual transmission) between 1000-1300 rpm, or going up a hill in higher gear. It hasn't been happening since we've gotten home, except occasionally when we're both in the car and going up a hill, and didn't seem to happen in relation to braking at all. lol I just saw you post about this in BosThread. If we’re in the same area then maybe we can both find a goon to teach/help us. Anybody in the MA/CT area got a lift? Wanna make $500?
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Aug 2, 2023 14:30
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I can do pads and rotors without a lift, when you guys wanna meet up?
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Aug 2, 2023 14:34
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The Slack Lagoon posted:
Rent them a car for a few days. You will still end up far, far ahead of the shop price, even if you actually need to do the full brake job. You will be paying yourself to learn a literally valuable skill.
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Aug 2, 2023 15:34
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The Slack Lagoon posted:It was when we had the car loaded with our road trip stuff. Mainly happened in 1/2/3 gear (manual transmission) between 1000-1300 rpm, or going up a hill in higher gear. It hasn't been happening since we've gotten home, except occasionally when we're both in the car and going up a hill, and didn't seem to happen in relation to braking at all. I doubt you needs pads or rotors based on the symptoms you describe.
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Aug 2, 2023 16:13
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VelociBacon posted:That must feel good! Lots of zip ties fixing rattles in this thread lately. It felt great since it’s been rattling for a few years. But then later that night it came back a bit, but not nearly as loud. So annoying. The hunt continues. Or maybe more zip ties. Back to my kid’s 13 Fiesta: - AC blowing nothing but hot air - Recently changed cabin filter and resistor module - Got a refrigerant refill can - Low side of compressor measures 125 PSI according to the gauge on the can (!!) - Compressor doesn’t seem to ever kick on. Doesn’t alternate on and off; just doesn’t kick on. - Fan spins just fine Bad compressor/clutch? Found this the same day that I was told my 18 Suburban had electronically-controlled struts/shocks and they’re a dealer-only part at $800 per. $2200 to replace the front set after overnighting them from a dealer. When it rains it fuckin pours.
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Aug 2, 2023 17:02
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I’d bet it’s a bad AC clutch for the Fiesta. Re: the suburban, you used to be able to (and still might be able to) just replace them with “dumb” struts. Take this with a grain of salt, the last vehicles I’ve done this to were a 1995 Cadillac DeVille and a 1991 Olds 98 Touring.
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Aug 2, 2023 18:18
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His Divine Shadow posted:But soldering isn't trouble free either in cars right? I'm not sure what you're getting at AYBC electrical code says to crimp as soldering is more prone to failure on boats. I've replaced more than a few crimp connectors on boats due to either unintended water intrusion, or not using marine grade wiring (I think it's tinned? I forget) and going green crusty on me after a couple of decades. I haven't personally had a corroded crimp failure on an 0/2 cable but trolling motors tend to get more splashy than the engine compartment of an inboard and most of my time is spent with inboards. Anyways TL;DR check your ground
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Aug 2, 2023 18:36
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Henrik Zetterberg posted:It felt great since it’s been rattling for a few years. But then later that night it came back a bit, but not nearly as loud. So annoying. The hunt continues. Or maybe more zip ties. You need to fully diagnose this electrically first, or you end up replacing a clutch (or compressor if the clutch isn't available separately) for no good reason. Ask me how I know! On a car that new there might be some advanced BCM diagnostics that a better scan tool can pull out that will confirm whether or not the car is actually calling for the compressor, and if it isn't, why it isn't. Absent that, unplug the compressor connector and use a voltmeter to see if you have the same voltage at the compressor that you do at the battery. If you're seeing straight zero volts, then you need to pull up a wiring diagram and see what controls/connectors are in line with the compressor circuit, because it could be a failed pressure switch, or a failed connector at a pressure switch, or a failed mid-harness connector. If you see some voltage at or near battery voltage, you need to put a test load on it and verify the circuit will hold up to a few amps of current. A flaky connector at any of those points I previously mentioned could show 12-14V with zero draw, but act like an open circuit when the compressor coil tries to engage. You could also disconnect the compressor clutch and jumper straight from the battery to it to verify that the coil can engage and pull the clutch in. If it doesn't work even when you bypass the rest of the electrical, then yes you probably have a bad coil/clutch/compressor.
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Aug 2, 2023 18:51
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I know a few HVAC guys. They all say "its almost never the compressor". Seems to be similar for automotive AC as well.
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Aug 2, 2023 23:44
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Ok great thanks for the info! I’m picking up my Suburban tomorrow and just swapping it with the Fiesta. Expensive week.
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Aug 3, 2023 00:36
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Is there any goon-tested r12 AC refrigerant alternatives that don’t require an r134a upgrade? I don’t wanna switch my whole system to r134a right when it’s being phased out and end up in the same loving boat. I’ve read about a handful of products and EnviroSafe keeps coming up, but I figured I’d ask the horse’s mouth.
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Aug 3, 2023 03:04
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I would run a 50/50 blend of R290 and R600a, propane and isobutane. They're not going anywhere. I've used those in my cars, though I've stopped trying now because it keeps leaking out, mine are in too bad a shape, but apparently if you don't let it get too bad, they have a positive effect on small leaks and old o-rings. They're flammable, but it's also not a lot.
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Aug 3, 2023 04:31
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My wife's CRV is making this noise when she drives. Note: it doesn't do it *just* when she's turning ... that was just her driving around our little circle to get it on video. First thought was breaks, but it happens at all times not just breaking. Edit: Guess you gotta open in a new tab for audio? https://i.imgur.com/DTqXnNd.mp4
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Aug 3, 2023 04:52
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If you open the hood, look for the alternator it'll have this stamped metal fan thing (it might be black or gray too) Is the noise coming from there?
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Aug 3, 2023 05:50
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Dr. Lunchables posted:Is there any goon-tested r12 AC refrigerant alternatives that don’t require an r134a upgrade? I don’t wanna switch my whole system to r134a right when it’s being phased out and end up in the same loving boat. Motronic did a r152a conversion in one of his AC threads.
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Aug 3, 2023 06:06
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BonoMan posted:
At least in safari you gotta right click the image and show controls.
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Aug 3, 2023 06:08
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BonoMan posted:My wife's CRV is making this noise when she drives. Note: it doesn't do it *just* when she's turning ... that was just her driving around our little circle to get it on video. Also think brakes or something on a rotor, at a certain point you don't have to be braking to hear noises like that, does it change at all when you brake? How many miles and have the brakes ever been replaced?
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Aug 3, 2023 06:11
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Agreed, that sounds like worn brakes to me.
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Aug 3, 2023 06:50
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The bottom of my bumper cracked and is hanging off from the rest of it. What would be the best way to get it back together? An epoxy?
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Aug 3, 2023 08:25
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I recently became a higher class of rear end in a top hat and got a BMW convertible, this is my first car with leather interior. Is there a goon recommended guide to automotive leather care?
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Aug 3, 2023 12:37
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Shrieking Muppet posted:I recently became a higher class of rear end in a top hat and got a BMW convertible, this is my first car with leather interior. Is there a goon recommended guide to automotive leather care? Just don't armor-all it, turns it into a shiny mess.
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Aug 3, 2023 15:44
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Shrieking Muppet posted:I recently became a higher class of rear end in a top hat and got a BMW convertible, this is my first car with leather interior. Is there a goon recommended guide to automotive leather care? I go to Target or the O'Reilly Zone and pick up whatever is $7-15 for a spray or non-spray bottle of a leather product or two. You could do a separate bottle of cleaner and conditioner, or one of the couple major 2-in-1 products on the market. I use a spray 2 in 1 myself and it works fine, smells a little weird but kinda nice, does bring nice leather tones out in smell. The more expensive stuff will probably smell a tad nicer. Meguiar's, Mother's, Turtle Wax, they'll all have a bottle of the stuff on a shelf at your local place or you can Amazon it. I put it on when I'm bored every 6 months or so, or less often and just when it looks a bit dry. You can wipe and buff gently with a paper towel or micro fiber if you feeling fancy, micro fiber will be less likely to scratch but I haven't had any issues with a couple paper towels, putting them in the trash pile and getting new ones when the ones I'm using get gross looking.
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Aug 3, 2023 23:20
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Smith posted:Also think brakes or something on a rotor, at a certain point you don't have to be braking to hear noises like that, does it change at all when you brake? How many miles and have the brakes ever been replaced? IOwnCalculus posted:Agreed, that sounds like worn brakes to me. Yeah I think it's this. I took it for a spin myself and it sounds like when my brakes were starting to wear. That sound comes and goes every once in a while and as soon as I tap the breaks it goes away.
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Aug 4, 2023 01:43
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Ambassadorofsodomy posted:I know a few HVAC guys. It wasn’t the compressor. AC relay was toast. Phew, dodged a $1000 bullet there after dropping $2100 on Suburban struts. What a lovely 3 car weeks. Now just have to continue to track down that WRX trunk rattle…
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Aug 4, 2023 02:09
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