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Cthulu Carl
Apr 16, 2006

Finished to two Blade Demons for Demonship



And the whole gang



Now to decide if I start in with the terrain, start on my Majestic 13 squad, or start painting up a crew for Dread Nights...

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Axetrain
Sep 14, 2007

Finished the Leviathan Barbgaunts.



Tried to do like a glowing effect with the eyes on the bio gun and think it came out alright.

Axetrain fucked around with this message at 02:59 on Jul 31, 2023

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007



I did this today

IncredibleIgloo
Feb 17, 2011





I know Army Painter paints are kind of hit or miss, but how are their airbrush paints?

Jonny Nox
Apr 26, 2008




Didn't want to do a textured base so I just did marble.

Works great since all the other models in the army are on foot.

These ladies however....



Just doing burnouts in the Basilica. Blessed Sister things.


edit: They're the Blessed Sisters of the Order of Peppermint

Jonny Nox fucked around with this message at 06:57 on Jul 31, 2023

Harvey Mantaco
Mar 6, 2007

Someone please help me find my keys =(
The sun came in and hit a diorama I made and covered the wall with its shadow this morning. It's supposed to be a detective noir kinda thing so I just thought it looked kinda neat.

Radiation Cow
Oct 23, 2010

Painted up a dnd character for a friend. Made me realise I'm not cut out for commissions because I'm hyper critical about it, but not enough to overcome my laziness and fix the mistakes. (I did fix up the sticky tack on the feet and the base rim)



Jack B Nimble
Dec 25, 2007


Soiled Meat
Did the old 40k 2nd edition painting guides which were included in the basic kits (so not the big specialty books) actually recommend covering models in skull white paint instead of priming? Or is that just my memory playing tricks on me? If they did, that's surely just the author's working on the assumption that you're a ten year old kid with no access to anything other than that painting box, right? Like, it wasn't actually a good idea, or what any knowledgeable painter was doing at the time?

Ashcans
Jan 2, 2006

Let's do the space-time warp again!

Yes, the old simple guides did actually say that:


You are correct, it was based on 'painting this model with only exactly what we have given you' not as as best-in-art guideline or anything I think any serious painter ever did. Skull White in particular was a notoriously difficult paint and very hard to thin without turning chalky or giving it bad coverage. There was probably someone out there who primed in Chaos Black but also not recommended.

Even other contemporary materials that weren't for those paint kits had broader advice:

Verisimilidude
Dec 20, 2006

Strike quick and hurry at him,
not caring to hit or miss.
So that you dishonor him before the judges



Ashcans posted:

Yes, the old simple guides did actually say that:


You are correct, it was based on 'painting this model with only exactly what we have given you' not as as best-in-art guideline or anything I think any serious painter ever did. Skull White in particular was a notoriously difficult paint and very hard to thin without turning chalky or giving it bad coverage. There was probably someone out there who primed in Chaos Black but also not recommended.

Even other contemporary materials that weren't for those paint kits had broader advice:



I love these, because they definitely have that "first draw two circles, then draw four sticks, then draw the rest of the horse" feeling, especially the ork one.

Disproportionation
Feb 20, 2011

Oh god it's the Clone Saga all over again.
I got started from around 3rd to early 5th edition and I do not remember ever being told to prime first, either by GW publications or store staff, there were recommendations to use spray paint for undercoating but iirc that was mostly a time saver thing than actual priming.

I still have most of my models from that period and i have absolutely no idea how I managed to only end up with a few of them looking absolutely awful (there is a monolith that I have that desperately needs paint stripping though that I keep putting off for obvious reasons).

Lumpy
Apr 26, 2002

La! La! La! Laaaa!



College Slice
I actually had some time to paint, and so I painted my Beastpersons!




Siivola
Dec 23, 2012

Disproportionation posted:

I got started from around 3rd to early 5th edition and I do not remember ever being told to prime first, either by GW publications or store staff, there were recommendations to use spray paint for undercoating but iirc that was mostly a time saver thing than actual priming.

GW still sells starter sets with paints, a brush and some miniatures but no primer. Just dip that brush in and go for it.

I've got some unprimed dudes around, I should try how that works out.

Ashcans
Jan 2, 2006

Let's do the space-time warp again!

Verisimilidude posted:

I love these, because they definitely have that "first draw two circles, then draw four sticks, then draw the rest of the horse" feeling, especially the ork one.

Step 3: Paint the shoulder pad white.

Step 4: Ok now go ahead and freehand a checkerboard pattern, no I will not be providing any more guidance.


The Marine one is better, but they're definitely making some big jumps for the poor newcomer.

Jack B Nimble
Dec 25, 2007


Soiled Meat
What brought it to mind, aside from general 2nd edition nostalgia, is that I lost one out of forty backpacks for my HH legionaries and only just found it, months later. And all the models are already primed and I'm sooo lazy. So, a few thin layers of Vallejo white later, and it looks fine. Will the paint on the back pack be much more prone to rubbing off? Maybe!

Major Spag
Nov 4, 2012
A lil ol bit of a Xpost. Not too bad, really.

Major Spag posted:

Heresy dies by the hands of the tactical marine, not by the mechanization of its leaders.





Bonus picture of the full squad of 15



And a zoom in of some model interaction


Sydney Bottocks
Oct 15, 2004
Probation
Can't post for 17 days!

Ashcans posted:

Step 3: Paint the shoulder pad white.

Step 4: Ok now go ahead and freehand a checkerboard pattern, no I will not be providing any more guidance.


The Marine one is better, but they're definitely making some big jumps for the poor newcomer.

That reminds me of one of the MS Paints videos, where Dave was talking about how the Citadel guides for making terrain (I think around the time of either 2nd or 3rd edition) were all basically "here's a bunch of pics of amazing looking ruined buildings, guard towers, and other impressive bits of terrain and scenery" followed by "now here's how to make concrete barriers out of styrofoam" but nothing on making the other cool poo poo that was shown in the pics. :v:

Dreylad
Jun 19, 2001
I got into warhammer around 4th edition of fantasy and at that point they were selling brush on primer as the way to prime. Then cans of skull white, then somewhere in the 00s my friend showed me the power of priming in black for hiding mistakes.

Silhouette
Nov 16, 2002

SONIC BOOM!!!

Sydney Bottocks posted:

That reminds me of one of the MS Paints videos, where Dave was talking about how the Citadel guides for making terrain (I think around the time of either 2nd or 3rd edition) were all basically "here's a bunch of pics of amazing looking ruined buildings, guard towers, and other impressive bits of terrain and scenery" followed by "now here's how to make concrete barriers out of styrofoam" but nothing on making the other cool poo poo that was shown in the pics. :v:

Yeah, the old red book from 1993(?) was hilarious like that. They would barely even give instructions on how to make the poo poo terrain, let alone the good stuff!

The blue book from the early 00s is loving stellar though, and I highly recommend everyone that builds terrain to pick up a copy somehow

Dreylad posted:

I got into warhammer around 4th edition of fantasy and at that point they were selling brush on primer as the way to prime. Then cans of skull white, then somewhere in the 00s my friend showed me the power of priming in black for hiding mistakes.

Ugh, loving Smelly Primer was the worst paint product that gw has ever sold, and that's saying something. It somehow had worse coverage over bare plastic/metal than skull white did.

Drunkboxer
Jun 30, 2007
I’ve only recently started painting minis and I’ve been priming with a matte white Krylon rattle can because that’s what I had. Is there some rule of thumb about when you want to prime with black vs white vs gray? I’ve only been painting age of sail ships and I’ve been liking the way the colors are coming out with the white undercoat, is there something about painting little dudes that makes a darker primer more desirable?

rantmo
Jul 30, 2003

A smile better suits a hero



Drunkboxer posted:

I’ve only recently started painting minis and I’ve been priming with a matte white Krylon rattle can because that’s what I had. Is there some rule of thumb about when you want to prime with black vs white vs gray? I’ve only been painting age of sail ships and I’ve been liking the way the colors are coming out with the white undercoat, is there something about painting little dudes that makes a darker primer more desirable?

Black primer hides the parts of the model that you miss or just can't quite reach.

Cease to Hope
Dec 12, 2011

Drunkboxer posted:

I’ve only recently started painting minis and I’ve been priming with a matte white Krylon rattle can because that’s what I had. Is there some rule of thumb about when you want to prime with black vs white vs gray? I’ve only been painting age of sail ships and I’ve been liking the way the colors are coming out with the white undercoat, is there something about painting little dudes that makes a darker primer more desirable?

Priming in black allows you to not paint (or paint in a translucent way) an area to leave shadow, and most of the minis have sharply-defined small contours that benefit from being emphasized with shadows. The fact that this darkens or muddies color is usually a feature rather than a bug. It also covers mistakes, because if you missed a spot, it's probably a spot that should be in shadow.

It's less effective the larger the mini gets. On those you'll usually want more stages of shadow, placed more deliberately.

Cease to Hope fucked around with this message at 22:13 on Jul 31, 2023

Lamuella
Jun 26, 2003

It's like goldy or bronzy, but made of iron.


You will also find a lot of people recommending a zenithal prime, which is where you prime in black and then do a lighter spray of white from above (or if you've got time, grey then white). This allows you to create light and shade on your model quickly, which really works for some people, although it's not ideal for every project.

WorldIndustries
Dec 21, 2004

Lamuella posted:

You will also find a lot of people recommending a zenithal prime, which is where you prime in black and then do a lighter spray of white from above (or if you've got time, grey then white). This allows you to create light and shade on your model quickly, which really works for some people, although it's not ideal for every project.

Yeah I prefer to zenithal with a black prime all over, then white just from about 0 to 30 degrees incline. It still leaves near-black in the hard to reach areas but make it so much easier to layer up to bright colors then starting from pure black.

Ashcans
Jan 2, 2006

Let's do the space-time warp again!

Your primer color will tend to affect the base color you use, so if you are painting something in darker colors a black primer might be good, while bright colors will be better over a white primer. Gray is kind of just splitting the difference. This isn't really a world-ending thing, you can prime black and still end up with bright colors, you will likely just need to use more layers to bring up the right shade you want. You can get a nice bright yellow over a white primer simply faster than over black, but you can get one over black too.

I always found that white spray primers were much more likely to mess up or go bad than black, I assume that's something you can fix with brand and type choice now.

As mentioned above, black tends to be more forgiving for errors or missed spots - if you prime entirely black then anything you miss will just be a dark area, but if you prime white them you'll spot it later as a glaring error. That can be good if you want to be sure you're carefully finishing a miniature! But if you are painting 100 orks you might prefer not to be finding little missed spots in favor of just having them done.

I pretty much always prime black, and then either basecoat light areas with a light base color (like khaki) or just drybrush the whole model lighter so that I can see details better compared to the full-prime version.

LGD
Sep 25, 2004

Cease to Hope posted:

Priming in black allows you to not paint (or paint in a translucent way) an area to leave shadow, and most of the minis have sharply-defined small contours that benefit from being shadowed emphasis. The fact that this darkens or muddies color is usually a feature rather than a bug. It also covers mistakes, because if you missed a spot, it's probably a spot that should be in shadow.

It's less effective the larger the mini gets. On those you'll usually want more stages of shadow, placed more deliberately.

yeah, it being more forgiving is huge, but you really do want to think about what you're ultimately going for in terms of vibrancy because you'll often get a very different effect/feel with a white undercoat than a black one - if you want bright pops of color for (say) swashbuckling heroic adventures then a white prime makes perfect sense, while people's take on battles in the grim darkness of the far future leans grittier

so not really anything with a prescriptive rule of thumb, just something to take into consideration when planning out what you're doing

nor are you restricted purely to those options - you can use additional grey/white priming to do zenithal highlighting/underpainting of a mini originally primed in black, and sometimes you'll save a lot of time/effort by priming in a completely different color (i.e. priming robots/substructures in a metallic and then just using washes/glazes and highlighting to build depth)

e;fb

Shoehead
Sep 28, 2005

Wassup, Choom?
Ya need sumthin'?


Still waiting for paints to show up so I did another Hero Quest wizard. I had a lot of red sitting around in the bottom of bottles, so he's VERY RED
Still cant for the life of me light this guy well enough to get my phone to focus right :sweatdrop:


Edit: Wait I got it to focus!

Shoehead fucked around with this message at 22:34 on Jul 31, 2023

Drunkboxer
Jun 30, 2007
Thanks for the priming info everybody!

Nazzadan
Jun 22, 2016



Priming question, I prime black and then work my way up to whatever color I'm going for usually within 2 or 3 coats. I've watched plenty of videos in which people zenithal but it's usually in the context of using contrasts. Would I get any noticeable benefit out of zenithaling if I am just using almost entirely regular acrylics? Would it cut down on maybe a layer of some of the brighter colors that are hit by the white?

Siivola
Dec 23, 2012

It depends on how translucent the layering colour is. If you can get good coverage with literally two or three coats over black it won’t do anything. If you can’t see black from under there you probably can't see white either.

Works okay with AP's deeply mediocre blues and reds tho. You end up halfway to a finished highlight that way.

tangy yet delightful
Sep 13, 2005



Nazzadan posted:

Priming question, I prime black and then work my way up to whatever color I'm going for usually within 2 or 3 coats. I've watched plenty of videos in which people zenithal but it's usually in the context of using contrasts. Would I get any noticeable benefit out of zenithaling if I am just using almost entirely regular acrylics? Would it cut down on maybe a layer of some of the brighter colors that are hit by the white?

I do a very dirty zenithal with black spray paint then gray spray paint, and on some models I'll add white. I sometimes am using contrasts but not even the majority of my paint usage is contrast.

I still find it nice as it makes it easier to see the details. And yes it absolutely makes it take less coats to get good coverage with lighter colors over a light gray or white versus a black. You will also find that if you paint two models one black primed, one white primed - with the same acrylic paint in really any color. And paint both separately but then place them side by side the one primed with white will make the top color brighter even if when held apart they both seem to have full coverage/opacity.

GreenBuckanneer
Sep 15, 2007



Worked on this tonight, still got some stuff to do tho

AndyElusive
Jan 7, 2007

Darren Latham is doing a month long 90's Marine Challenge on social media and I decided to join in.

The Deathwatch didn't exist in 1993 during 2nd Edition, but what if it had?

Siivola
Dec 23, 2012

That's so sick. :swoon:

Is that NMM on the arm or just blue on metallic silver?

WorldIndustries
Dec 21, 2004

drat you completely nailed that!

AndyElusive
Jan 7, 2007

Thanks!

Siivola posted:

That's so sick. :swoon:

Is that NMM on the arm or just blue on metallic silver?

It's recess shades of Drakenhof over Grey Knight Steel with Ironbreaker and Stormhost Silver layers.

Al-Saqr
Nov 11, 2007

One Day I Will Return To Your Side.

AndyElusive posted:

Darren Latham is doing a month long 90's Marine Challenge on social media and I decided to join in.

The Deathwatch didn't exist in 1993 during 2nd Edition, but what if it had?



that is so loving awesome, I have fond memories of the 1997 catalogue that introduced me to warhammer so this is hitting some great nostalgia.

a fatguy baldspot
Aug 29, 2018

Does anyone have any tips for painting big things? My land raider is already turning out like garbage. Look at this poo poo



How do I get it to not be so streaky?

Siivola
Dec 23, 2012

Another coat, crosswise.

Or don't thin you are paints so much, whichever you prefer.

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Lamuella
Jun 26, 2003

It's like goldy or bronzy, but made of iron.


Larger brush, slightly less diluted paint, more coats.

You might also consider starting with a grey prime rather than a white as it reduces how much the undercoat shows through.

edit: Also, reload your brush with paint more often. Part of what you're seeing there is simply not enough pigment making it onto the primer.

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