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foutre
Sep 4, 2011

:toot: RIP ZEEZ :toot:
Oh, awesome, thanks. I'm used to shims being a lot more informal, that's great.

I saw you mentioned a suspension stem above as well - what's your review on that? The bike does have front suspension, but also my roads are terrible so maybe I should double up anyway.

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Helter Skelter
Feb 10, 2004

BEARD OF HAVOC

I have a Suntour SP12 on my Radmission and it has literally saved my rear end on Seattle's lovely roads.

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad

foutre posted:

I saw you mentioned a suspension stem above as well - what's your review on that? The bike does have front suspension, but also my roads are terrible so maybe I should double up anyway.

It’s beneficial but not quite as magic as the eeSilk

quote:

I’ve used suspension stems before on more sporting bikes, and had been shopping for a new one. On a lark, I decided to mount [the Redshift Shockstop] on the Quick Haul just to see how it felt. And the difference is very noticeable! I went from sort of dreading running over cracks and square steps in the road surface to feeling them but not being bothered by how harshly I was feeling it on my palms.
Picture of the Shockstop stem: https://i.imgur.com/NVNQNPZh.jpg
(pictured with the little bag from Tern that lets you hold a small or medium coffee, precariously).
This is a 90mm; the stock Quick Haul stem is 80mm. I don't really notice a difference in the fit.
The only downside is cost. I'm seeing these for about $160 [more for the lighter Pro trim] new on eBay, but... that's a lot. I don't have experience with any of the other similar products out there. The Cirrus Kinekt is a bit cheaper, and the Cane Creek eeSilk is pricier.

I recommend this to anyone who's been feeling bumps too much in their hands. It doesn't work miracles, but I don't have any plans to switch back.
When the GSD switched to having a suspension fork, and the HSD came out with only suspension, I sideeyed that design choice. Now I totally get why -- you really do lose some compliance with these smaller wheels. I'm still happier with the simplicity and lighter weight of the Quick Haul, and adding on this stem is a solid compromise.
Used ones don’t come up often, but they’re cheaper. $200 for eeSilk+ seat post vs 160 for Shockstop, I’d definitely go seatpost first.

Helter Skelter posted:

I have a Suntour SP12 on my Radmission and it has literally saved my rear end on Seattle's lovely roads.

That looks like a moderate ripoff of CC’s older Thudbuster design (innovating with linkaged coil spring instead of rubber). I’ve had one of those, and I couldn’t tune it to where I thought I was getting enough travel without noticing the seat height changing during pedaling, which bothered the poo poo out of me. Something tightens up enough at 35mm of travel (not 30 like I stated above) that I don’t notice height change.
The suntour is a lot cheaper, though. The only thing to avoid is simple shaft based spring posts — you don’t apply force in that direction when you thud down against the saddle, so it won’t really take the sting out as well.

foutre
Sep 4, 2011

:toot: RIP ZEEZ :toot:
Interesting, ty for all the info. Honestly this is making me think I should also get these for my gravel bike. I'll just try the seatpost for now then, and see if I feel like I need more! This is my first bike with any suspension, so still getting used to how it feels.

evil_bunnY
Apr 2, 2003

foutre posted:

I do think I'll look into a suspension seat post, just since roads aren't great here, but the front suspension was already honestly pretty solid.
The suntour posts are so comfy and so cheap.

Pham Nuwen
Oct 30, 2010



kimbo305 posted:

A little disappointing that the motor had that little juice. Which gear were you in / what cadence were you at?

It's about a 12-13% grade. I tried the lowest gear and felt like the motor wasn't giving me very much; on a later run up the same hill, I found that putting it in a mid gear and standing up on the pedals worked better. All the rest of my ride, the assist was great and got me up hills no problem.

I'm also fat and out of shape.

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad

Pham Nuwen posted:

I tried the lowest gear and felt like the motor wasn't giving me very much

Ok. I'm not sure how a hub motor interacts with a given gearing and torque from the rider, compared to middrive (which of course is super easy to reason about, since the power assist happens before the gearing).

I dunno if easy gearing divides your torque input, and then the assist is operating against that smaller torque figure, and hence giving you less assist? But then if you're mashing up a hill, it should still fill in with assist...

tildes
Nov 16, 2018

Pham Nuwen posted:

It's about a 12-13% grade. I tried the lowest gear and felt like the motor wasn't giving me very much; on a later run up the same hill, I found that putting it in a mid gear and standing up on the pedals worked better. All the rest of my ride, the assist was great and got me up hills no problem.

I'm also fat and out of shape.

This is good to know! It does feel like figuring out how to coax out the amount of assist you want can be super tricky.

(Also being converted to try a suspension seatpost)

paberu
Jun 23, 2013

kimbo305 posted:

So caveat that I can't seem to find what the seatpost diameter on the e1.1/1.2 is, but it certainly looks like a 30+mm post.

The Cane Creek eeSilk and Silk+ come in 27.2 and 31.6. If the seattube ends up being 30.9, you'd need to run a shim from 30.9 to 27.2.

Just measured the one on my e1.2 with a cheap caliper and it's 34.9mm (34.8mm actual read). Kinda an unusual diameter size.

So yeah, who ever asked you would need a 31.6mm to 34.9mm for the eesSilk+ (if you buy the 31.6mm version). https://canecreek.com/product/seatpost-adapters/

paberu fucked around with this message at 22:47 on Jul 31, 2023

evil_bunnY
Apr 2, 2003

kimbo305 posted:

I dunno if easy gearing divides your torque input, and then the assist is operating against that smaller torque figure, and hence giving you less assist? But then if you're mashing up a hill, it should still fill in with assist...
It's probably just that if you actually roll faster the motor can give you more power. Max torque at 0rpm is all well and good until rpm approaches zero.

acidx
Sep 24, 2019

right clicking is stealing
Re: Suspension seatposts, the PNW coast is awesome for ebikes, because it's a suspension dropper. I would go for the thudbuster or something like that first if the bike is a stepover, or you have no problems getting on and off of it. But with the taller bikes, the dropper lets you put the seat all the way down while you get on, then raise it up to a comfortable height once you get going.

PNW has you set it at a PSI where it just takes the edge off of the big bumps. But on an ebike, pedaling efficiency isn't important anymore, so you can lower the pressure and give yourself a bit more squish.

Huggybear
Jun 17, 2005

I got the jimjams

evil_bunnY posted:

Given their financial situation I wouldn't get a Rad at any price.

They keep downsizing after a bunch of stupid startup mistakes after they went scalar. They abandoned the Rad Mission completely, even replacement warranty frames after announcing that a single speed hybrid was the next generation of ebikes and it tanked and sucked, a total joke of an idea from a company owner that loathes the bike industry and thinks he knows better. The Rad Wagon has a proprietary wheel size and the original tires were recalled after exploding randomly. A proprietary wheel size is, for anyone in the bike industry, one of the stupidest mistakes a bike brand could make - no one has done this for decades without industry wide buy in (700C is a good example, even though you can still easily source 27" tires decades later)

The industry desperately needs - and is finally starting to conform to - ISO/industry standards, especially for parts that wear quickly, so tires, tubes, chains, grips, pedals, and so on, all need to conform to existing standards, and this is not for the industry, it is for the common cyclist who depends on their bike.

The backstory is, Rad hired some overpaid c-suite morons in 2019 who didn't know gently caress all about the industry and they are still doing stupid poo poo, like a trike with 18" tires, lol. They built out a Velofix-style mobile repair wing in 2020, except unlike Velofix they only fixed Rad bikes and it cost them untold millions when it didn't make any money, surprise. Then they were hit with a massive lawsuit when a couple of children died on a RadRunner - not sure of the specific details.

The Rad Runner is a decent utility bike and there are a dozen models of electric mopeds that are made by better ebike companies that aren't slow motion imploding because they are relatively mildly okay at business. Rad is basically the Elon Musk Twitter takeover of the bike industry.

stephenthinkpad
Jan 2, 2020
Those stories sound like half of the Boosted Board story already.

However I think both Rad cargo bike and Rad Runners (1/2) are/were good ideas I hope Rad can recover.

Rad Mission is not a new idea, they just need to keep it niche and hidden and add more "cultist" design elements to it.

Honestly I thought brands like Super73 would go bust much sooner.

Ham Equity
Apr 16, 2013

The first thing we do, let's kill all the cars.
Grimey Drawer
Is there a good bike for fatasses that's easy to get serviced in Seattle that isn't Rad?

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad

Ham Equity posted:

Is there a good bike for fatasses that's easy to get serviced in Seattle that isn't Rad?

Did you check out any of the Terns?

Speaking of which:

kimbo305 posted:

I got my Tern Quick Haul in September last year, and after using it rain or shine (though mostly shine) 5-6 times a week, the controller died and power cut out maybe 30s into a ride.
I have been testing intermittently since, and sometimes I can see the LCD screen power up, and then show the OFF lettering before turning back off. Each time I turn it on, the battery comes on (the LED charge indicator lights up like normal), so there's still some electronic life in there. It rained on me a couple times in the past week, once pretty heavily. The layout of the parts seems pretty weatherized to me, and I imagine Bosch tested these things endlessly, but I still suspect water.

Unfortunately, with the busy summer cycling season, the local Tern dealer can't look at it til 7/8.
I'll keep using it without a battery, with conveniently long daylight right now.
Once I turn it in, I'll have to dust off the old cargo bike.
After I checked the bike in, I got a call from the shop that I needed to provide proof of purchase to deal with the Bosch warranty process. I had registered the bike with Tern, but didn't do anything on the Bosch side. Nor did I really expect to, given that it's a component of the bike. But my receipts were good enough for that purpose.

I went on a short vacation at some point later, so I wasn't in a rush, and have been managing fine since on other regular bikes.
After 10d of silence, I called the shop. They had diagnosed a short circuit, talked to Bosch, and were waiting to hear back about having a replacement motor shipped out. Another day later, they updated that Bosch had already shipped the motor but with no tracking, so they'd replace it as soon as they got it.

7/19, they called and said it was done. $50 warranty work fee for a not-sold-in-this-shop Tern, $50 diagnostics, $100 for swapping the motor.

kimbo305 posted:

E: Someone also suggested looking at the plugs under the plastic motor housing. Those looked good. The potential for wires to fray against the metal cradle frame makes me nervous, especially with how much pulling in the harnesses on the outside of the cradle can shif the wiring around.
They were sloppy and left a wire dangling outside the plastic housing cover :/ This is the same shop that gouged the absolute gently caress out of the special threaded headset cover the Quick Haul uses, so I can't say I'm surprised, but the next closest shop (also the same chain) is inconveniently far away.

In the time after I dropped the ebike off, I was enjoying the extra exercise I'm getting from riding my touring bike (which isn't really that much slower for my commute) and got lazy about swapping the kid's bike seat back onto the Quick Haul, so I let it sit for a couple more weeks.
I decided to check on it last night to research making my own stirrups/running boards so the kid can sit on a moto-style seat when I go back to the ebike, and I notice that the front light isn't coming on with the bike, and that the long-press from the controller that toggles the light isn't working. Quick google shows that this is something that you have to configure in the controller firmware, so they forgot to do that.

Picking it up again today after dropping it off yesterday just for that one bit of work. When I dropped it off a new QH owner was there. Not sure how worried he got hearing that I was there for following up on warranty motor repair work.




Long story short, it was a bit cheaper than I was dreading for not having bought it at that shop (would have been $100 in that case), and turnaround was 12 days for almost all functionality, given that I don't need the light in the summer. I would guess Bosch might even be a bit faster than Shimano, given what we've seen of their supply chain issues, and likely better support than the various no-name brands out there.

Hackers film 1995
Nov 4, 2009

Hack the planet!

Ham Equity posted:

Is there a good bike for fatasses that's easy to get serviced in Seattle that isn't Rad?

seattle is one of the few places that is actually easy to get service from rad lol. at least currently. in the future? who knows

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad

Huggybear posted:

The industry desperately needs - and is finally starting to conform to - ISO/industry standards, especially for parts that wear quickly, so tires, tubes, chains, grips, pedals, and so on, all need to conform to existing standards, and this is not for the industry, it is for the common cyclist who depends on their bike.
I feel like if you stay above the very bottom of the barrel, it shouldn't be hard to get parts that conform to standards. Grips -- which ones aren't gonna be 22.2mm ID? Pedals -- a 9/16" one will probably actually thread into a 9/16" crank. Chains -- an advertised 9spd chain will probably shift on a 9 speed cassette.

Wrt Rad in particular, it's laughable that their frame design is misdimensioned enough that the brake pads are running off the end of the rotor and contacting enough other with enough wear.


One standard I would like to see is a mid-mount cradle spec. So conceivably you could swap in different motors onto the same bike if you really wanted to. Doesn't have to be pretty, just doable.
But of course that's lockin that I can't imagine any ebike motor maker really wants to give up.

tildes
Nov 16, 2018

Ham Equity posted:

Is there a good bike for fatasses that's easy to get serviced in Seattle that isn't Rad?

If you're under 300 lbs (which I think is similar to Rad's weight limits), I have to imagine it would be easy to get the (currently very discounted) REI bikes serviced in Seattle: https://www.rei.com/product/189967/co-op-cycles-generation-e11-electric-bike

Hackers film 1995
Nov 4, 2009

Hack the planet!

yeah rei has a service center in seattle and should be easy to get service

Ham Equity
Apr 16, 2013

The first thing we do, let's kill all the cars.
Grimey Drawer

tildes posted:

If you're under 300 lbs (which I think is similar to Rad's weight limits), I have to imagine it would be easy to get the (currently very discounted) REI bikes serviced in Seattle: https://www.rei.com/product/189967/co-op-cycles-generation-e11-electric-bike

I'm a bit over 300 pounds, and it has to haul my fat rear end up First Hill.

tildes
Nov 16, 2018

Ham Equity posted:

I'm a bit over 300 pounds, and it has to haul my fat rear end up First Hill.

It might be easiest to find some local shops selling ebikes and test drive some stuff? I think that would make it easier to get a sense of if they will give the assist you'd want, and usually they service whatever brands they sell.

I think most light cargo bikes would tend to work for your weight requirements. So Tern HSD/GSD like kimbo mentioned or a Specialized Globe Haul.

This would be taking it to another level of expense/how nice the bike is, but Reise and Muller cargo bikes would of course work, but I think so might the Superdelite and maybe some of their others. From test riding them they are extremely nice, but also super expensive.

bicievino
Feb 5, 2015

Just go to G&O or Montlake and buy what they sell you.

halokiller
Dec 28, 2008

Sisters Are Doin' It For Themselves


Hackers film 1995 posted:

seattle is one of the few places that is actually easy to get service from rad lol. at least currently. in the future? who knows

rad also still has their store/service center in ballard and I still see a bunch of rads in seattle, but I also see a bunch of vanmoofs as well (which is even more of a bike elon would design)

Hackers film 1995
Nov 4, 2009

Hack the planet!

halokiller posted:

rad also still has their store/service center in ballard and I still see a bunch of rads in seattle, but I also see a bunch of vanmoofs as well (which is even more of a bike elon would design)

yeah that is what i meant. the rad service center is in ballard and they do walk ins. its the busiest season but most people get their bike back in under a week. flat fixes and poo poo are mostly done same day. off season can be same day for just about anything

stephenthinkpad
Jan 2, 2020
I only see Vanmoof maybe once here in NY. Tons of Rad bikes.


Just buy some tools and service yourself. I install broken spokes and chains. It aint that hard.

T.C.
Feb 10, 2004

Believe.
I have a radcity and mostly like it, but have had to do way more maintenance than I should have to on the breaks.

I wouldn't say it's easy to get serviced though. I figured I might try taking a bike to a shop for maintenance for the first time in my life. Despite having a showroom and service facility in town there's no drop off slots currently available until late September.

evil_bunnY
Apr 2, 2003

T.C. posted:

radcity

no drop off slots currently available until late September.
lmao at the idea of buying a rad bike now

hark
May 10, 2023

I'm sleep
loving my super73 so far. have had it for 3ish weeks and it's been great. already added a suspension fork, and this weekend I'm adding a 72v controller and a 1500w rear hub motor to replace the stock 500w. I'm also in the process of building a 72v 20ah battery so I don't have to worry about charging as often. this hobby is now my hyperfixation :stoked:

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad

hark posted:

added a suspension fork
which one, and does Super 73 use a 1" moto headset?

hark
May 10, 2023

I'm sleep

kimbo305 posted:

which one, and does Super 73 use a 1" moto headset?

I don't have it in front of me, but I'm almost positive it's a 1 1/8. I'll confirm when I get home today

stephenthinkpad
Jan 2, 2020
Get another frame and you will have enough spare parts to build a 2nd bike.

Hackers film 1995
Nov 4, 2009

Hack the planet!

T.C. posted:

I have a radcity and mostly like it, but have had to do way more maintenance than I should have to on the breaks.

I wouldn't say it's easy to get serviced though. I figured I might try taking a bike to a shop for maintenance for the first time in my life. Despite having a showroom and service facility in town there's no drop off slots currently available until late September.

thats for appointments. you can drop your bike off as a walk-in (call first to see if there is room) and get it back in a few days usually depending on how severe the work is.

hark
May 10, 2023

I'm sleep

stephenthinkpad posted:

Get another frame and you will have enough spare parts to build a 2nd bike.

that's the plan down the road. going to build out a less beefy one as a backup since I use this one for commuting

stephenthinkpad
Jan 2, 2020

hark posted:

that's the plan down the road. going to build out a less beefy one as a backup since I use this one for commuting

You can do a weekend build that specialize in hauling 2nd person and/or BBQ meat.

What's the range and top speed of your new bike?

CopperHound
Feb 14, 2012

Since online ebike reviews are universally garbage I was hoping one of you might know the answer to this before I go out of my way to check:
Does the REI Generation e1 have any sort of torque sensor or is the PAS cadence only?

hark
May 10, 2023

I'm sleep

stephenthinkpad posted:

You can do a weekend build that specialize in hauling 2nd person and/or BBQ meat.

What's the range and top speed of your new bike?

I don't know the max range since I haven't run it til it died completely yet, but my work commute is about 10ish miles and when I leave the house fully charged, it looks from the very barebones indicator that the battery is somewhere between 40% and 0% by the time I get to work.

I passed a speed sign yesterday with the throttle all the way down and it said I was going 25mph, but that was with a not fully charged battery and before any upgrades to anything but the fork. I'm very excited to get into the 30mph+ speed range because it'll make my commute time shorter both ways.

Twerk from Home
Jan 17, 2009

This avatar brought to you by the 'save our dead gay forums' foundation.
Are e-bike motors rated for peak power or continuous power? I'm pretty surprised to see that the first big motorcycle brand developing what looks to be a high-volume model is rating its motor at 9kW:

https://www.motorcycle.com/bikes/new-model-preview/kawasaki-ninja-e-1-and-z-e-1-electrics-ready-for-launch-44593204

https://www.motorcycle.com/bikes/new-model-preview/kawasaki-ninja-e-1-and-z-e-1-electrics-ready-for-launch-44593204 posted:

Australian homologation, however, lists a slightly lower net engine power of 9.0 kW (12.1 hp)

...

Kawasaki certified a tare weight of 135 kg (298 pounds) for the Z e-1 and 140 kg (309 pounds) for the Ninja e-1. The tare weight is typically the mass without fuel, but it’s not clear if that includes the batteries. Kawasaki previously stated the electric models will each be powered by two removable battery packs, weighing about 12 kg each, with a combined capacity of 3.0 kWh. If the weights do not include the batteries, then we are likely looking at a curb weight of around 350 pounds for the Z e-1 and 362 pounds for the Ninja e-1.

The line between heavy, non-classed ebikes and entry-level electric motorcycles continues to be a bit blurry. 9kW and a single speed transmission is not a lot of power. It's more than a Grom or most cheap 100cc scoots for sure, but at least a Grom has gears.

stephenthinkpad
Jan 2, 2020

CopperHound posted:

Since online ebike reviews are universally garbage I was hoping one of you might know the answer to this before I go out of my way to check:
Does the REI Generation e1 have any sort of torque sensor or is the PAS cadence only?

The cheapest ebike with a torque sensor is probably $1500 and they would advertise it in the top bullet points.

Helter Skelter
Feb 10, 2004

BEARD OF HAVOC

Twerk from Home posted:

Are e-bike motors rated for peak power or continuous power?

Usually both, but you often only get one of those numbers from the company selling the bike. If you're lucky, they'll even tell you which one!

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CopperHound
Feb 14, 2012

Twerk from Home posted:

Are e-bike motors rated for peak power or continuous power?
:rubby: They are rated for being allowed to be sold in places with regulations or big number to sell to people.

Any number you see is likely no real indicator of the capability unless it is for relative comparison between the lineup of one vendor.

E: some reputable vendors might do thermal testing, but without some duty cycle stats it means nothing.

CopperHound fucked around with this message at 17:27 on Aug 3, 2023

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