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Spanish Manlove posted:Oh neat. Maybe I just buy terrible litter. Are you getting the kind that clumps together when it gets wet? That might be what you were thinking of. The kind that I've been using for years is the old-fashioned "clay" litter that looks like tiny little rocks and pebbles (or larger rocks on a miniature's base). It doesn't clump together and is stupidly inexpensive (I can get a 25 lb. bag of it for like $5).
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Aug 2, 2023 15:01
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What's a good color to use for a shade/wash over Thousand Sons Blue or Ahriman Blue? I've got a blue shade, but it seems too dark.
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Aug 2, 2023 15:15
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Re cat litter: I stole a cupful from the cats' bag of clumping litter a long time ago, and it's nice to use with superglue. It acts as a bit of an accelerant, but also cures itself and is ready to play nice with a pva sealer layer after that. I just glue down bits, litter and cork, then fill in the gaps with basing textures
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Aug 2, 2023 15:39
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Not been painting that much this year, theres a couple of projects on my desk I should probably give up on as they are starting to gather significant dust and I just cant seem to muster any enthusiasm to finish them. So instead recently I painted a bunch of random stuff. A 40K assassin. She was in a bits collection I bought off ebay, probably because she was missing her hair, but there were spare heads with ponytails in the same bits collection, and I never liked the giant braid anyway so....  Krong the Mighty from Superfigs. This bad boy was sitting in the attic for probably 15 years before being primed, then sat in the pile of shame for another 5 before I decided painting him could be a nice change of pace. Hes a fairly large chunk of lead.  Then I bought a 3d printer, a very dumb thing to do in a hobby slump as it multiplies your pile of shame exponentially, but then I routinely make bad decisions so... Much tinkering later (it really is an entirely separate hobby) and I've printed a ridiculous amount of figures, but miraculously also actually painted some of the stuff I printed. Ignore the black/unpainted bases on a couple of them, I have vague plans to use them in a diorama so havent bothered basing them properly.     And most recently this group of Blacksite Escapees from Unit9 on MMF. Made them a display plinth for reasons I'm not entirely clear on, but I think it looks decent, and I'm pretty proud of 4 out the 5 of them.      
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Aug 2, 2023 16:24
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SiKboy posted:Not been painting that much this year, theres a couple of projects on my desk I should probably give up on as they are starting to gather significant dust and I just cant seem to muster any enthusiasm to finish them. So instead recently I painted a bunch of random stuff. The good thing about 3D printing minis is, as long as you don't print every single STL the moment you get it, your pile of shame is literally *gestures at the external hard drive connected to my PC that's getting stuffed full of STLs that were downloaded over the last 3 years* 
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Aug 2, 2023 16:31
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Files of Shame. Or is that something else entirely?
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Aug 2, 2023 16:54
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Devorum posted:What's a good color to use for a shade/wash over Thousand Sons Blue or Ahriman Blue? I've got a blue shade, but it seems too dark. What blue shade do you have? There are lighter ones and darker ones. The new Citadel Tyran Blue is brighter than Drakenhof Nightshade. You could also go more green/teal, with Coelia Greenshade. Or a lighter Contrast paint.
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Aug 2, 2023 17:11
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Muir posted:What blue shade do you have? There are lighter ones and darker ones. The new Citadel Tyran Blue is brighter than Drakenhof Nightshade. You could also go more green/teal, with Coelia Greenshade. Or a lighter Contrast paint. I have Army Painter Blue Tone, Tyran, and Coelia (which I forgot I add until you mentioned it). I also have the entire SpeedPaint range, so I'm looking through that.
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Aug 2, 2023 18:42
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SiKboy posted:And most recently this group of Blacksite Escapees from Unit9 on MMF. Made them a display plinth for reasons I'm not entirely clear on, but I think it looks decent, and I'm pretty proud of 4 out the 5 of them. Nice to see some more Unit9. Did you have any problems printing them? I recently bought a bunch from a seller and they came covered in residual supports. The Papsikels figs I bought at the same time were perfect so I kinda believe the seller when he said the Unit9 supports are poo poo. In other news I did more freehand 
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Aug 2, 2023 19:19
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Z the IVth posted:Nice to see some more Unit9. Did you have any problems printing them? I recently bought a bunch from a seller and they came covered in residual supports. The Papsikels figs I bought at the same time were perfect so I kinda believe the seller when he said the Unit9 supports are poo poo. Honestly, In my (admittedly fairly limited) experience Unit9s supports are generally a bit better than papiskels! Unit9 are maybe a little overfond of the "one medium support with about 20 mini supports fanning out from it" technique along every blade, gun or flat surface, but their stuff tends to print fine* and be fairly straightforward to remove supports from. I will admit that the big lad chucking the metal barrel has some fairly rough bumps on the back of his trousers but thats user error on my part because I didnt check them over carefully enough before priming and by the time I noticed the base coats were more or less done. Could have fixed it by scraping the little bumps off, but that would have realistically meant having to reprime and rebasecoat and that wasnt going to happen. Freehand looks great btw. *Theres like... One guy from one months tribe release who no matter what I do prints with his right foot separate from his right leg at the ankle, but I suspect the actual 3d model has a defect there, as both the foot and the leg print, still attached to the supports, just not attached to each other. Other than that one theres not been any I remember having to add extra supports to manually which I cant say for Papsikels.
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Aug 2, 2023 19:37
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Sydney Bottocks posted:As long as it's clean cat litter, nobody's going to judge you Kitty litter is great yeah, and I also have a tub of instant rubble that I mixed up years ago  Coarse and fine sand, kitty litter, bits of broken plaster from hirst arts mold castings and chopped up matchsticks all mixed together. I mostly use it on larger bases or where walls meet floors on ruin terrain
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Aug 2, 2023 19:53
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For those of you interested in getting an airbrush, but aren't sure you want to drop hundreds of dollars on a compressor and brush, this video is a review for a £7 brush from Temu, and it seems decent enough for priming and basecoating at least! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=86YLBNYnezQ
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Aug 2, 2023 20:42
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Aug 2, 2023 20:46
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Verisimilidude posted:For those of you interested in getting an airbrush, but aren't sure you want to drop hundreds of dollars on a compressor and brush, this video is a review for a £7 brush from Temu, and it seems decent enough for priming and basecoating at least! Portable airbrushes that come with those kinds of compressors are ok, but they're really limited when it comes to the PSI settings, which is to be expected I suppose.
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Aug 2, 2023 20:51
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AndyElusive posted:Portable airbrushes that come with those kinds of compressors are ok, but they're really limited when it comes to the PSI settings, which is to be expected I suppose. For that price, it may be worth getting just for really basic use (priming, basecoating, zenithal highlighting). That + a bottle of Vallejo airbrush primer and cleaner will run you a little more than a GW rattlecan, and potentially put paint on many more models. The pressure won't make that much of a difference for those uses listed above, especially priming and basecoating (so long as it's not splattering paint everywhere). Definitely seems like a decent investment for those on a budget crunch, those who don't have the space for an airbrush, or those interested in seeing if an airbrush is the right tool for them.
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Aug 2, 2023 21:07
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Oh for sure. In my experience it's the best way to dip into airbrushing before jumping right in. I'm at the stage where my next investment will be a good air compressor. Then a decent airbrush like an Iwata.
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Aug 2, 2023 21:56
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AndyElusive posted:Oh for sure. In my experience it's the best way to dip into airbrushing before jumping right in. I'm at the stage where my next investment will be a good air compressor. Then a decent airbrush like an Iwata. Get a China branded compressor with a tank - they're all the same and essentially copies of the OG Iwata version. Save the money for a good brush like an Iwata Eclipse.
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Aug 2, 2023 22:02
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Verisimilidude posted:For those of you interested in getting an airbrush, but aren't sure you want to drop hundreds of dollars on a compressor and brush, this video is a review for a £7 brush from Temu, and it seems decent enough for priming and basecoating at least! I've got a couple of similar type of airbrushes that have a USB-rechargable portable compressor. They're okay, but you're definitely not going to be using them for anything other than the very basics like priming/basecoating/varnishing.
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Aug 3, 2023 01:35
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Z the IVth posted:Get a China branded compressor with a tank - they're all the same and essentially copies of the OG Iwata version. Save the money for a good brush like an Iwata Eclipse. And even then I'm doing okay with my $40 amazon airbrush. I've got an eclipse but learning on the cheap one has been nice, and it primes well enough.
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Aug 3, 2023 03:19
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Z the IVth posted:Get a China branded compressor with a tank - they're all the same and essentially copies of the OG Iwata version. Save the money for a good brush like an Iwata Eclipse. Something through Amazon? Any suggestions?
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Aug 3, 2023 04:10
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AndyElusive posted:Something through Amazon? Any suggestions? always this: https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B07VT3RV47/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 edit: never this one https://www.amazon.ca/Timbertech-AS18-2-Airbrush-Compressor-Decoration/dp/B07VSFZVRH?ref_=ast_sto_dp
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Aug 3, 2023 04:36
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I have had a lot of good success with this model/combo : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08Y64YQ3M?ref=nb_sb_ss_w_as-reorder-t1_k0_1_13&=&crid=1TKCCRV2KW9TS&=&sprefix=master+airbru
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Aug 3, 2023 04:48
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 So close to being done with these. I want to try a trick with dots of yellow oil paint on the gun nodes and the lowest spots on the hanging wires before I call them finished, though. (There's twenty-one of them because one is an experiment with putting the new gauss gun on an old style necron warrior. See if you can find him!)
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Aug 3, 2023 05:53
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   Test model done for the fyreslayers basic troops. Definitely learned a bit during this process. The weapons for example were painted metal and then glow effects were applied, but you can't tell at all that they were at one point a metal color, so next time I'm just gonna leave them black to start, rather than doing any metallics on them at all. Also, the face has a bit more purple in it than the rest of the body, and while the body does look good I think having the slightly more purple-tinged skin looks better and more interesting. The rest of the models will have that same effect.
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Aug 3, 2023 06:05
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IncredibleIgloo posted:I have had a lot of good success with this model/combo : I bought this combo last August and it's a great deal. Eventually added an Eclipse, but still use the brush that came with it for most tasks. Compressor is very good, works like a dream. Can't recommend it highly enough for a starter airbrush set.
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Aug 3, 2023 07:31
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Finished up (short of basing) the 1st/test Terminator and am happy with how it came out for not spending too much time on it to keep things moving along.    
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Aug 3, 2023 07:45
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I decided to go with Dark Angels for my 2nd Edition Boxed Set Marines, and I found an 'Angels Green' Army Painter bottle in the bottom of my tub of old paints. The coverage is shockingly bad - is this a case of not shaking it enough, or was the first wave of AP paints really this terrible?
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Aug 3, 2023 08:36
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 Okay so it turns out the final thing I wanted to try on these guys, the little dot of feathered-out yellow oil paint on the gun cable, looks terrible, because while it does sell the cable being brighter and thus explains the glow spot on the base better, it shifts the color profile away from the eerie greens and more toward yellow. Fortunately oil paints wipe off. Which I did. So... they look like the previous picture again and they're done, at least until I can varnish them in a couple of weeks after all traces of oil paint have fully cured.
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Aug 3, 2023 09:08
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Any advice on tackling NMM and maybe some OSL? I'm starting with some Shatterpoint minis and I feel that they deserve that love.
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Aug 3, 2023 11:44
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Flipswitch posted:Any advice on tackling NMM and maybe some OSL? I'm starting with some Shatterpoint minis and I feel that they deserve that love. Both techniques rely on a solid understanding of how textures and objects interact with light. So, take the time to understand how light will hit a ball, cylinder, or cube, and translate that to your model. An easy way to get a basic understanding is to prime your model with a satin black undercoat, put it under a bright lamp, and see where the bright spots and shadows are. Then, with NMM, the other thing to realise is that contrast is key. The faster something goes from dark to light, will determine how shiny it looks. Other than that, both techniques really just depend a lot on being willing to faff and experiment. Look forward to seeing your results!
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Aug 3, 2023 12:50
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Southern Heel posted:I decided to go with Dark Angels for my 2nd Edition Boxed Set Marines, and I found an 'Angels Green' Army Painter bottle in the bottom of my tub of old paints. The coverage is shockingly bad - is this a case of not shaking it enough, or was the first wave of AP paints really this terrible? Shake the ever living balls out of it, and do multiple thin coats. AP Warpaints behave like old 90s citadel paints, and the colors are basically spot on as well, so you're pretty much working with actual dark angels green
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Aug 3, 2023 13:01
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AndyElusive posted:Something through Amazon? Any suggestions? Jonny Nox posted:always this: I got mine through Amazon. Anything that looks like the one in that link should be fine - it's a compressor + tank combo and there are a zillion clones out there. Make sure it comes with a moisture trap (that clear thing hanging off the front) Sparmax was the brand being thrown around but it's still just a well known OEM brand.
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Aug 3, 2023 13:10
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choo choo. sci fi mono rail coming through. this is the first of 3 6mm monorail trains            all models and tracks are from Brigade Models
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Aug 3, 2023 14:07
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That graffiti looks awesome
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Aug 3, 2023 14:45
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That monorail looks amazing!
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Aug 3, 2023 14:47
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Radiation Cow posted:Both techniques rely on a solid understanding of how textures and objects interact with light. So, take the time to understand how light will hit a ball, cylinder, or cube, and translate that to your model. An easy way to get a basic understanding is to prime your model with a satin black undercoat, put it under a bright lamp, and see where the bright spots and shadows are. How to do NMM right: do it wrong 50 times, then something in your brain goes "click" and you can now do it.
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Aug 3, 2023 14:53
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Lumpy posted:How to do NMM right: do it wrong 50 times, then something in your brain goes "click" and you can now do it. You can brute force a lot of NMM simply by pushing contrast, even if your highlight placement isn't the best. I feel like NMM clicked really early for me, and I loving love it. Can't remember the last time I used any metallic paint.
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Aug 3, 2023 16:26
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Radiation Cow posted:Both techniques rely on a solid understanding of how textures and objects interact with light. So, take the time to understand how light will hit a ball, cylinder, or cube, and translate that to your model. An easy way to get a basic understanding is to prime your model with a satin black undercoat, put it under a bright lamp, and see where the bright spots and shadows are. Thanks. I'll give it a try. I think knowing the right colours to use is going to be really key.
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Aug 3, 2023 16:48
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Flipswitch posted:Thanks. I'll give it a try. I think knowing the right colours to use is going to be really key. One thing you can do is just do your gradiants in grayscale and then glaze over with the colours you're using, at least with NMM. Pulls your transitions together and I always found it a bit easier to work black-white than with specific colours, at least at first.
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Aug 3, 2023 18:33
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Radiation Cow posted:You can brute force a lot of NMM simply by pushing contrast, even if your highlight placement isn't the best. I feel like NMM clicked really early for me, and I loving love it. Can't remember the last time I used any metallic paint. This is exactly what I do, literally using Contrast paints. Then I just sort of work with the highlights and shadows that gives me, putting some different Contrast tones in the dark bits and pushing the highlights up to a pure white specular dot on the light bits using acrylics. It's rough and ready, and not "really" accurate, but has a very good effort-to-results ratio - this warband took me two or three evenings to paint up:  It can be a bit hit and miss, because that shadow placement from the initial Contrast coat can be wonky, especially on flat surfaces, but it's pretty much the only way I do metals any more.
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Aug 3, 2023 22:21
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