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Water's leaking into the trunk area of my Saab 900, looks like the seals around the right taillight is the reason. Anyway I found that water has been seeping in under the rubber coating (sound deadening I guess) and from there getting under most of the mat. So I am scraping it away, it comes away in big chunks in places probably because the water made the glue release. I will have remove all the rust and repaint the area with epoxy primer. My question is, what new sound deadening should I add? Is there a product or type of material to recommend?
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Aug 4, 2023 07:11
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His Divine Shadow posted:Water's leaking into the trunk area of my Saab 900, looks like the seals around the right taillight is the reason. Anyway I found that water has been seeping in under the rubber coating (sound deadening I guess) and from there getting under most of the mat. So I am scraping it away, it comes away in big chunks in places probably because the water made the glue release. I will have remove all the rust and repaint the area with epoxy primer. Where I'm from people use spray on truck bed liner in this kind of situation. I'm not sure how noise deadening that is though. I'd you aren't worried about covering every area to protect from rust (doesn't look like your water ingress already caused rust, area looks painted) you could apply dynamat which will deaden the sound but not cover every inch of exposed metal.
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Aug 4, 2023 13:04
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I'm not sure I'm following you. I am definitely worried about covering this area again, because the sound deadening layer trapped water between it and the metal and caused. You can see the rust in the portions I had already scraped away, those where hidden under the mat. I don't want a repeat of that.
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Aug 4, 2023 15:03
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Thanks to all y'all that answered my questions about my trolling motor batteries. I'm at the dock right now and put my meter on the batteries. Each one read 11.9x volts. This is after having been sitting since Monday They are connected in series + - + -. Also when I put my meter on the two "output" terminals, the ones actually going to the motor I got 23. Something volts. Main Engine running at 1600 rpm (according to the tach) same readings. Not sure about how long the run is, as the cables come off the batteries and disappear under some stuff before coming out in the cubby hole at the front. The batteries themselves are close to the front, but there could be 10 feet of wire coiled up under there somewhere. According to a short length of wire coming off the positive and going to a fuse, it 8 gauge. The other wiresappear to be the same size. This was factory rigged so I'm going to assume its the same gauge. Though I am well aware that "factory" anything doesn't necessarily = good. Fake edit: engine been running for at least 10 minutes out the meter on them again. No change. Perhaps they aren't meant to be charged unless they get below a certain voltage.
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Aug 4, 2023 15:18
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Any opinions on new Colorado vs. Ranger? Life circumstances require that I get a truck again for towing and hauling dirty/awkward shaped things. 4wd not needed or desired.
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Aug 4, 2023 17:52
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If you can afford it, dynamat apparently is the best sound deadener. I think it's like 15-20% more expensive than the next best competitor but you're only doing a small area
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Aug 4, 2023 18:28
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Ambassadorofsodomy posted:Thanks to all y'all that answered my questions about my trolling motor batteries. If the batteries are reading 11.9 volts, there's a problem with the batteries themselves or they're not getting charged (either through a plug-in charger or through the alternator on your engine). Fully charged should be 12.6 volts, and 11.9 is "dead". With the engine running, if the alternator is working, it should be somewhere in the 13-14 ballpark, and a plug-in charger should also give a roughly similar reading. Edit: I assume the 3 bank "charger" has a 12V "input" from the alternator? If you can access that, measure the voltage between that and one of the negative battery terminals (or a convenient ground). If that's 13-14 volts but the batteries aren't seeing higher voltage, then the fuckiness lies in the charger somewhere. JoshGuitar fucked around with this message at 19:17 on Aug 4, 2023 |
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Aug 4, 2023 19:14
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OP probably needs a blurb about how lead acid batteries work and nominal voltages
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Aug 4, 2023 19:15
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Ambassadorofsodomy posted:Thanks to all y'all that answered my questions about my trolling motor batteries. Shamelessly quoting myself. Had the boat out, did some fishing, out the trolling motor through its paces for a few hours. After a bit the motor started acting funny working, then not working etc. Put the meter on the batteries. One was still around 10ish volts, but the other was down to 3. Together, they both measured something like 14(?) So......... Bad battery? I find it weird that the one battery didn't get drawn down that much while the other was dead. When I started the main engine, voltage on the dead ish one started going back up like .01 volts every second or so. By the time I got back to the dock, the good one was back to where it was pretty much 11.9x volts and the bad one up to like 10.something. Hopefully I can convince Napa to give me a new battery without a receipt. wesleywillis fucked around with this message at 20:43 on Aug 4, 2023 |
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Aug 4, 2023 19:20
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His Divine Shadow posted:I'm not sure I'm following you. I am definitely worried about covering this area again, because the sound deadening layer trapped water between it and the metal and caused. You can see the rust in the portions I had already scraped away, those where hidden under the mat. I don't want a repeat of that. Sure, what I was trying to say was that you can use spray-on stuff but then you'll still probably have water be able to get under it unless you resolve the leak (sounds like you know where it is and can resolve it). I was on my phone before and thought that brown stuff was adhesive from the old sound deadener - if it's rust then yeah that material is prone to rust, I thought it was painted and thus protected from rust. If it's protected from rust, applying dynamat is a good idea for sound deadening but the correct application will not cover every single bit of the metal there. So, dynamat will be like patches of dynamat in that space. The spray-on bedliner truck stuff you'd get way more coverage but probably little to no sound deadening.
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Aug 4, 2023 19:51
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JoshGuitar posted:If the batteries are reading 11.9 volts, there's a problem with the batteries themselves or they're not getting charged (either through a plug-in charger or through the alternator on your engine). Fully charged should be 12.6 volts, and 11.9 is "dead". With the engine running, if the alternator is working, it should be somewhere in the 13-14 ballpark, and a plug-in charger should also give a roughly similar reading. I didn't see this before I quoted myself. I neglected to mention that after I killed the one battery, when I started the engine I measured the main battery and it was reading 13 point something volts at just above idle which is normal, while the other two the volts were steadily increasing, but didn't measure anywhere near 13+ volts with the engine on. Its my understanding that the Minnkota charger is a trickle charger. I'm not too familiar with how they work compared to say an alternator or a booster pack that just throws a bunch of voltage at a battery except that they charge "slow" E: the engine must have its own alternator which is why I was measuring 13+ volts at the main battery when its running. These engines go in lots of stuff that don't have trolling motors etc, so it would be dumb for them to not have their own way of charging the battery. Whereas the Minnkota charger, like I said, I understand to be a trickle charger. Whether or not I am correct about those last few sentences, thats at least my logic for why the main battery had 13+ while the others just had a steadily increasing voltage rather than also getting 13+ with the engine running. wesleywillis fucked around with this message at 20:51 on Aug 4, 2023 |
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Aug 4, 2023 20:42
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Ambassadorofsodomy posted:I didn't see this before I quoted myself. So does the Minnkota only charge the batteries when plugged into the wall (or dock power I guess)? I don't have an onboard charger on my boat, but I have a battery isolator. The alternator feeds the input of the isolator, then it gives power to each battery as appropriate for charging. Or I can hook a regular battery charger (as long as it's not a "smart" one) to that input at home and it'll also charge both batteries as needed. I think I was picturing the Minnkota working as both a charger (when hooked to wall/dock power) and an isolator (when fed from an alternator), which may not be the case. If the alternator doesn't feed charge voltage through the Minnkota, or through a separate battery isolator, it may only be hooked up to the "main" battery. Although that doesn't explain the second battery slowly rising in voltage. If you're charging both without an isolator, and the second battery is no good, it'll also draw down the good battery. I don't know all the ins and outs of 24VDC stuff, since mine's all 12V. I think the 2 batteries can be wired in series, but also be individually charged by a nominal 12V source. Or it could just have a 24V alternator. Battery 1's positive terminal is the positive "output" to the engine. Battery 1's negative terminal goes to Battery 2's positive terminal. Battery 2's negative terminal is the negative "output" to the engine. Do any other wires connect to the battery terminals? If so, where do they go? That'll tell us if they're both being charged and how. But if the one was down to 3 volts, either that battery is toast, or you're getting a false reading one way or another (poor contact with the terminals, etc.). If you completely disconnect the batteries and then check the voltage, you may get different readings than you do with everything hooked up and one battery draining another and whatever other interactions are happening.
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Aug 4, 2023 21:46
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honda whisperer posted:Sounds like possibly vapor lock? Get it in a no start condition then take the gas cap off. If you hear the tank suck in air and it starts after you're basically getting a vacuum in your tank. mr.belowaverage posted:This thing apparently has a normally open canister valve, closed by the ECM on start, and then opened when the ECM decides. Not sure if that’s the only inlet for the tank, but there is a small hole next to the cap on the filler neck. It’s worth a test. I finally got out to my corvette and tried this. No dice. Didn’t even start initially to try the gas cap. I removed it and tried starting again with no change. It was hot that day, so going to try a fuel pump relay as they apparently age and fail when hot.
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Aug 4, 2023 21:48
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Mr. Wiggles posted:Any opinions on new Colorado vs. Ranger? Life circumstances require that I get a truck again for towing and hauling dirty/awkward shaped things. 4wd not needed or desired. I don't think you can get a new Colorado with a 6' bed, so new I'd vote Ranger. Used, probably Colorado, but I'm biased against Ford due to a couple decades of trauma. It's going to depend more on what you can find than anything though. I don't think one is significantly better than the other.
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Aug 4, 2023 22:11
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JoshGuitar posted:So does the Minnkota only charge the batteries when plugged into the wall (or dock power I guess)? I don't have an onboard charger on my boat, but I have a battery isolator. The alternator feeds the input of the isolator, then it gives power to each battery as appropriate for charging. Or I can hook a regular battery charger (as long as it's not a "smart" one) to that input at home and it'll also charge both batteries as needed. I think I was picturing the Minnkota working as both a charger (when hooked to wall/dock power) and an isolator (when fed from an alternator), which may not be the case. I do have a plug on the boat that I can put power to and charge the batteries, but like I said, its my understanding that the Minnkota charger works with either the wall power OR the main engine running. The voltage going up with the engine on would seem to confirm that part. I'm going out today so I'll bring my meter again and unhook the batteries and measure them separately. I don't really know much about 24vDC stuff either really. I' just kinda trying to extrapolate what I know about cars/12v stuff and see if I can figure things out. In related news, I went to Napa and they said no receipt, no exchange so the guy at the boat dealer is trying to track down an invoice or something from their local Napa (the place I got it from was about 2 1/2 hours away) and email it to me.
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Aug 5, 2023 17:07
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Car insurance Is there a car insurance thread? maybe BFC? What's the most efficient way to shop car insurance in America? Ask for quotes through the web? Take to a broker? both?
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Aug 5, 2023 18:25
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no lube so what posted:Car insurance As an older-millennial who assumes that every middleman is costing me money, it was hard to believe, but a good insurance broker is awesome. Getting quotes yourself online sucks. They ask for so much info, then apparently sell that info off immediately. I just got inundated with spam and calls when I did it myself. My broker took the same info once and then came back with a better number than I could find on my own. Last month the broker emailed and said “Oh hi, your home insurance is going up by $800, but I found this other plan that will knock it down $200 instead. Are you interested” Hell yea, thanks for saving me $1000 with almost no effort. It’s nice knowing I can get a good rate from a company I’ve never heard of, but still have a local point of contact.
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Aug 5, 2023 19:46
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NotNut posted:The bottom of my bumper cracked and is hanging off from the rest of it. What would be the best way to get it back together? An epoxy? Zip ties, bungee cables, or a new bumper. You would be lucky if even a strong off the shelf plastic adhesive could put up with the rigors of the weight of the part and the g forces of driving. I don't know much but that's my guess. The saga of my Audi A4 is over. The old man returned it fixed, with the used part package of struts, control arms etc. Didn't seem to get aligned I don't think they have a laser rig, I should probably do that, but it's steering straight. He remade threads on both the loose strut bolt hole, and also a stripped bolt hole on a CV axle mounting bracket that a previous mechanic stripped and did not inform me of. Total out the door, $2050 including a cash discount. Would have been $4-5k at a dealer with new parts. Fun stuff. 90day warranty on those parts. No more clunking noises at least 
Inner Light fucked around with this message at 19:55 on Aug 5, 2023 |
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Aug 5, 2023 19:49
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Today while I was idling waiting for gas, suddenly some almond smelling white vapor started to seep in from the dashboard. It was coming from where the door opens and not the ac vents. I also noticed that my front passenger window lost power when I tried to open all 4 windows to clear the foul smell. Could it be because of an electrical short connected to that window? What should I do next? Edit: I had the ac on by the way but the vapor wasn’t coming from the vents. This is a 2010 Pontiac Vibe by the way and I have engine code p0505. SeANMcBAY fucked around with this message at 22:47 on Aug 5, 2023 |
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Aug 5, 2023 20:54
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SeANMcBAY posted:Today while I was idling waiting for gas, suddenly some almond smelling white vapor started to seep in from the dashboard. It was coming from where the door opens and not the ac vents. I also noticed that my front passenger window lost power when I tried to open all 4 windows to clear the foul smell. Could it be because of an electrical short connected to that window? What should I do next? Well, is the window working? If not, you’ll diagnose and repair the failure causing that, if you’re wishing to repair it. That would involve taking the door card off and a trip to YouTube if you haven’t done it. I would be hiring it out personally but it isn’t cheap.
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Aug 5, 2023 22:47
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Inner Light posted:Well, is the window working? If not, you’ll diagnose and repair the failure causing that, if you’re wishing to repair it. That would involve taking the door card off and a trip to YouTube if you haven’t done it. I would be hiring it out personally but it isn’t cheap. It’s not working anymore. I’ve driven the car around a little more and no vapor but I did start to smell the almond smell a bit again.
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Aug 5, 2023 22:48
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Hey, thread. I've got a 2010 Honda Civic LX that nearly died yesterday when it surprised me by having literally no oil in it at only ~1800 miles driven since its last oil change. I can give all the gory details if people want, but the end result is that as of this morning, I've got a fresh load of oil in the car, and the check engine light is still on from when it turned on yesterday. Looking at the codes, I've got one for P0128, and one for P2646. P0128 is shown as "Coolant Thermostat (Coolant Temperature Below Thermostat Regulating Temperature)", while P2646 is shown as "A Rocker Arm Actuator Control System Performance / Stuck Off (Bank 1)" From the above links, I'm assuming P2646 is probably because my car ran too low on oil, or what little oil that was there was filthy, and the screen in the VTEC's gasket might've clogged. The P0128 is odd, but a couple hits suggested they might be related. I'm honestly not sure. I don't remember exactly when, but I know I had replaced the thermostat within the last year. Either early this spring, or like, mid-fall. I tried to go check the VTEC per this video, but some of the bolts holding the heat shield in place were really hard to turn, and I was starting to worry about snapping them. However, if you guys think it's absolutely essential that I take a look at it, I can try to power through, and get some spare 10mm bolts handy, just in case. My main question though, is do you guys think the code will clear on its own? Or should I go have it cleared somewhere? Or do I absolutely have to check that screen? Or what should I do here?
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Aug 5, 2023 23:31
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Sounds like there was not enough oil to operate the vtec actuator. While it would be a good idea to clean that screen; there is a good chance P2646 won't re-occur if you clear the codes now that it has oil. I would check your coolant level if you haven't already on the other issue.
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Aug 6, 2023 01:01
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I have hit a point in my life where I would like to get a nice car. I have always liked the look of American muscle, and while I'm sure there's a million different resources telling me different things, I have the following questions. The car will mostly be driving around the hills near my house as fast as possible. Like a weekend sort of excursion. Part of me wonders if there's like a track near my house I can use to really 1. I like the look of the dodge challenger. Is there a trusted guide for what I should be looking for when buying used? Is there a specific year I should look for? Is a 2023 that I build on the website just as good as anything else? Keep in mind I'm a moron, I know nothing about cars, I just miss driving like a teenager. 2. I'd like to get a stick again (see above re: clutching to my lost youth/midlife crisis). Is there some guide out there on how to drive stick like someone who knows what they are doing? For me I always drove where I shifted to neutral and braked. I shifted up or down when the engine sounded like it was too high or too low. But then I read about downshifting to brake, or heel toe poo poo, and I'm realizing maybe I was wearing things down faster than I should have been. Thank you!
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Aug 6, 2023 02:02
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sephiRoth IRA posted:I have hit a point in my life where I would like to get a nice car. I have always liked the look of American muscle, and while I'm sure there's a million different resources telling me different things, I have the following questions. Challengers are by far the worst driving of the new muscle cars, and really should be thought of more like a GT freeway cruiser, or a drag strip car for all of the insanely powerful SRT variants. They've also got the worst feeling manual out of the three, and that's an accomplishment given how mediocre the Mustang's MT82 transmission is. If you really want a Challenger get it, but you're missing out on the Camaro and Mustang which are both way more fun to drive. The Mustang is the best to live with out of the three, and any 2011+ Mustang GT is going to be plenty powerful. The Camaro has some variants that are track monsters, GM put great suspensions on some of them and it fits tons of tire. However, if you sit in a Camaro you will notice that you cannot actually see out of the car, which bothers some people. Just go drive some cars, and see what you like!
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Aug 6, 2023 02:24
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Twerk from Home posted:Challengers are by far the worst driving of the new muscle cars, and really should be thought of more like a GT freeway cruiser, or a drag strip car for all of the insanely powerful SRT variants. They've also got the worst feeling manual out of the three, and that's an accomplishment given how mediocre the Mustang's MT82 transmission is. If you really want a Challenger get it, but you're missing out on the Camaro and Mustang which are both way more fun to drive. Oh dang, I didn't know that, that's interesting. I have a ton of curvy roads so I'm more interested in something that handles well. I'll have to go test drive some stuff!
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Aug 6, 2023 02:30
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Chunjee posted:Sounds like there was not enough oil to operate the vtec actuator. While it would be a good idea to clean that screen; there is a good chance P2646 won't re-occur if you clear the codes now that it has oil. That's a relief. I had gotten the oil change from the local Valvoline, because it was the closest place to my apartment. They are supposed to check the fluid levels and top them off, but I had never been before, didn't learn that until afterward, and so didn't pay attention to see if they checked them all. They didn't mention anything but the oil and the air filters, though, so I'm assuming everything's good on the coolant front. One last question. I feel like I should get the code cleared before I have to drive to work Monday morning, because that commute is a half hour of highway driving, typically. Would things be fine if I drive to work, then clear the code on the way home? Or should I make sure to get it cleared tomorrow?
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Aug 6, 2023 02:35
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sephiRoth IRA posted:Oh dang, I didn't know that, that's interesting. I have a ton of curvy roads so I'm more interested in something that handles well. I'll have to go test drive some stuff! What's your budget? Do you specifically want a Challenger / Mustang / Camaro? Do you absolutely require a V8? Based on what you posted I'm going to heartily recommend you find and drive a Cadillac ATS-V unless you need a V8, it's a monster of a domestic performance car with a great manual transmission that has rev matching and no-lift shifting if you really want to go for it: https://www.caranddriver.com/reviews/a15101429/2016-cadillac-ats-v-sedan-manual-test-review/ I see one listed on Autotrader near me asking $44k, with 50k miles on it. It's more of an American M3 than a muscle car, though!
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Aug 6, 2023 02:36
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neogeo0823 posted:Hey, thread. Agreed with Chunjee that step one on the VTEC code is clear and see if it comes back, with step zero being monitor the oil level very closely to figure out why you're losing so much. P0128 is pretty easy to diagnose if you have a scan tool. On the next cold start, before you even start the engine (key on, engine off) verify two things. First, that you do have enough coolant in the system. Two, using the scan tool, see what the computer thinks the engine coolant temperature is, and compare that to the intake air temperature. Both of these sensors should be very close to each other as well as to ambient air temperature. If the engine coolant temperature is way colder than ambient, you have a problem with the sensor and/or its wiring. If the temperature looks sane, then you have a stuck-open thermostat.
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Aug 6, 2023 02:45
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eddiewalker posted:As an older-millennial who assumes that every middleman is costing me money, it was hard to believe, but a good insurance broker is awesome. thank you, good call!
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Aug 6, 2023 02:46
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Twerk from Home posted:What's your budget? Do you specifically want a Challenger / Mustang / Camaro? Do you absolutely require a V8? I'd have to talk to the wife. I was thinking somewhere in the 50s, including any aftermarket stuff to make things shiny (shifter knobs, paint, seats, etc.). But ideally lower. I'm not married to the biggest fanciest thing I can buy. Just something that's fast, can deal with corners, and looks cool. I like those three because they fukkin look cool as hell. I'm sure it's my midlife crisis talking but they look like predators, big cats or something, and it triggers the little kid in me. The Cadillac you posted has the performance but not the look. again I'm sure a lot of that has to do with growing up American and having these cars in the media as the epitome of badass. As for the engine, I'm not going to pretend I need a V8 because I know what I'm talking about. I'd be happy with anything that meets the above criteria. Looks cool, fast, handles well Also thanks for your comments. I heard you guys were cool and helpful in here, I should visit more often 
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Aug 6, 2023 02:54
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I've got two possibly dumb questions about my 2012 GMC Yukon Denali with the 6.2, AWD, and rear HVAC: Background: I was idling in a parking lot when one of my heater hoses popped - fair enough, replaced it and all of the radiator hoses I could get to while I was in there, the dumb little connectors at the firewall for the rear HVAC, put some decent hose clamps on. Cooling system is all sealed back up, filled it back up, and attempted the factory refill / air bleed procedure. When I thought everything was hunky dory, I went for a drive, and ... my AC only blows coldish if the car is moving, and higher engine speed seems to correlate to colder AC. Idling at a stop light, warm air, driving along in tow mode or M (and at ~2200RPM), it's noticeably "cold", but never as cold as it was before. It worked immaculately until the repair - when I drove the car around to the back of my house with the blown heater hose, it was blowing cold until I realized and turned it off. Question 1: How do I know the bleed procedure worked? The factory manual says "top off as necessary", but the coolant level in the reservoir never dropped. This led to me trying it again, two more times - one time parked at the curb, and then the latest, I put a front wheel up in the air to try to get the reservoir above everything else because I realized that parked at the curb, it was lower than level. That time, the level in the reservoir went up, which seemed even more confusing. Question 2: Is it possible my AC woes are related to my cooling system issue, or did my AC just take a poo poo at the same time? I went back through everything I did, and I'm 100% sure that the only thing I maybe did is spill coolant / water on the compressor while working on it (it's immediately below where the heater lines go into the block). Is there anything else I should be checking, beyond "take it to an AC shop"?
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Aug 6, 2023 06:50
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Brad Logan posted:attempted the factory refill / air bleed procedure. What did you actually do here? You are complaining about A/C but have you tested the heat?
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Aug 6, 2023 12:52
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I think he replaced his coolant and bled the system, but is now noticing by coincidence his AC is probably a bit low on refrigerant. I think it's unrelated to the blown coolant lines unless he tweaked a refrigerant line or fitting while doing the work.
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Aug 6, 2023 12:56
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Assuming it'll work on your vehicle, these make getting the air out dead simple, since they sit well above your coolant level https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24680-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B00A6AS6LY/
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Aug 6, 2023 13:59
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It’s a coincidence. Unless you are having the dreaded Silverado/yukon blend-door failure issue. In which case you are getting hot air 24/7 and it will defeat the A/C. I solved this on an ‘04 Silverado 2500HD by installing a 1/4-turn shutoff valve on one of the heater hoses. Closed for summer; open for winter. I just replaced the water pump & radiator on it yesterday. I ‘bled’ it by leaving the top hose detached, pouring the water / coolant down the hose until it started filling the overflow bottle, then filling the radiator until water poured out, then slammed the hose on. PainterofCrap fucked around with this message at 14:57 on Aug 6, 2023 |
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Aug 6, 2023 14:55
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Having two seemingly unrelated noises in my 2006 Scion xA with 90k miles. 1. It's squealing on startup. Usually it will squeal until I get up to 15-20 MPH or turn off the AC. Once either of those conditions is met, it will stop for the remainder of the drive. After I hit 20 MPH, I can turn the AC back on with no issue. Usually only happens if the car has been sitting for hours. Google says this is probably the serpentine belt, which has never been replaced. Does that sound right? I just want to know what I should be asking about when I start calling for quotes. 2. There's a new intermittent knocking sound coming from somewhere behind the driver's seat. You know how if you squeeze a plastic soda bottle and leave it alone, it will sometimes pop a few minutes later? That's what it sounds like. It has been insanely hot here lately, so I think it could be something plastic contracting as the interior cools down from the AC. Does this sound like anything you've ever heard of?
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Aug 6, 2023 15:30
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Sub Rosa posted:What did you actually do here? From the FSM:
Heat works well. opengl posted:Assuming it'll work on your vehicle, these make getting the air out dead simple, since they sit well above your coolant level https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-24680-Spill-Free-Funnel/dp/B00A6AS6LY/ sleepy gary posted:I think he replaced his coolant and bled the system, but is now noticing by coincidence his AC is probably a bit low on refrigerant. I think it's unrelated to the blown coolant lines unless he tweaked a refrigerant line or fitting while doing the work. PainterofCrap posted:It’s a coincidence. Looks like it's coincidence and it's time to look at AC repairs.
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Aug 6, 2023 17:33
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IOwnCalculus posted:Agreed with Chunjee that step one on the VTEC code is clear and see if it comes back, with step zero being monitor the oil level very closely to figure out why you're losing so much. Thankfully, when I went to start the car just now, the check engine light turned off on its own. I've set a reminder on my calendar to check the oil level monthly now. The car's high mileage, and I'm starting to think that this whole issue might've stemmed from the garage I got my previous oil change at, might've used normal oil and charged me for full synth. Incidentally, that was the last time I had been to that particular place, so there's that. I don't have any oil spots on the ground under my car or anything. So, I guess that solves that. Thanks, thread, for the advice and reassurance!
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Aug 6, 2023 19:08
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| # ? May 14, 2024 01:44 |
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Checking the oil whenever you get gas is a good habit when you’re driving an old car. They’ve even got paper towels to wipe with.
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Aug 6, 2023 19:20
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