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vikingstrike
Sep 23, 2007

whats happening, captain
Seems fine to me.

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TobinHatesYou
Aug 14, 2007

wacky cycling inflatable
tube man

Thom ZombieForm posted:

Is this bad derailleur setup?

(Sound on)

Pedaling forwards (and ramp up)

https://youtube.com/shorts/4fS8z1BaNBE?feature=share

Pedaling backwards (chain hop)

https://youtube.com/shorts/wfC5cyy-UuE?feature=share

I failed to check the LBS had resolved this noise when I picked it up. They fixed another issue, but not this.

First video sounds fine to me.

Second is ... not definitive. Ideally there would be no hop, but I've definitely had hop when backpedaling in small-small before. That looks like the chain is in the big ring though, so I would take a second look at the high limit, indexing and hanger alignment.

Platystemon
Feb 13, 2012

BREADS

Yeep posted:

Any recommendations as to which tubeless schrader valves? There don't seem to be many options and they're almost all brands I either don't recognize or know to be cheap tat.

I got Velotubes premium model because they came with two different profiles of grommet and the saddle‐shaped one was more suitable for my old (schrader‐drilled) wheels.

I put them in yesterday. They installed fine and held air on a short ride around town, but I’ll have to see how they hold up to more than that.

I got one tire seated with only a floor pump. I resorted to a compressor for the other one.

Now I need to get a TPU tube to carry for emergencies. All the good ones are presta I think, but that’s fine. A grommet will keep them getting destroyed by abrasion.

Platystemon fucked around with this message at 08:28 on Jul 30, 2023

mikemelbrooks
Jun 11, 2012

One tough badass

Slavvy posted:

Speaking of, is the valves constantly clogging making it impossible to top up pressure without removing the core and cleaning them out just a tubeless thing or can I avoid it by getting a particular type of valve? It happens basically every time and isn't something I expected.
You can buy 20 presta cores for 10 dollars from Amazon they are not worth cleaning. Also I pump my tyres up with the valve at the top.

TobinHatesYou
Aug 14, 2007

wacky cycling inflatable
tube man

mikemelbrooks posted:

You can buy 20 presta cores for 10 dollars from Amazon they are not worth cleaning. Also I pump my tyres up with the valve at the top.


You should be positioning the valves at about 4 or 8 o’clock.

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad

mikemelbrooks posted:

You can buy 20 presta cores for 10 dollars from Amazon they are not worth cleaning.

Still takes time to swap the cores. If it actually jams that frequently, an expensive valve that never needs work would be worth it.

Blackhawk
Nov 15, 2004

Does anybody know if there are any hidden gotchas for replacing Campagnolo 10-speed chainrings? My road bike has campag veloce 10-speed from around 2012, 110mm BCD compact cranks and 50/34 chainrings. I want to replace the chainrings but I haven't found any Campagnolo chainrings in stock anywhere, and I'm not sure if chainrings of the same BCD intended for Shimano would work or not.

Edit: Looks like I answered my own question, Campagnolo 10-speed compact cranksets use a weird 110 BCD where one of the bolts is actually at 112mm BCD, so you can only use chainrings specifically designed for campag cranks. Luckily it seems like this french company does (and I just installed some of their 'normal' 110 BCD rings on a SRAM bike and they work very well): https://specialites-ta.com/double/8...,denture,50-dts

Blackhawk fucked around with this message at 06:10 on Jul 31, 2023

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad

Blackhawk posted:

Edit: Looks like I answered my own question, Campagnolo 10-speed compact cranksets use a weird 110 BCD where one of the bolts is actually at 112mm BCD, so you can only use chainrings specifically designed for campag cranks.

I respect their hustle but I would absolutely be rattail filing out the extra 2mm on a regular 110 chainring for use on my own bike.

Sentient Data
Aug 31, 2011

My molecule scrambler ray will disintegrate your armor with one blow!
I feel like the fact that maintenance tutorials always say "unless you have Campagnolo" is all I need to know

evil_bunnY
Apr 2, 2003

kimbo305 posted:

Still takes time to swap the cores. If it actually jams that frequently, an expensive valve that never needs work would be worth it.
Carrying spare cores justifies carrying the valve tool, which is actually for sabotaging brodozers.

Suburban Dad
Jan 10, 2007


Well what's attached to a leash that it made itself?
The punchline is the way that you've been fuckin' yourself




I noticed something odd on the front wheel of my mountain bike. This year I bought the wheels (Nobl T35 IIRC? They're carbon 29" wheels) and threw them on a new bike. I haven't been riding much of July due to injury but noticed the front tire was flat after a couple weeks. I added more sealant, aired it back up and didn't think much of it. I pumped it to about 40 psi and then it sat for a bit until I rode it yesterday. I let some air out as usually run around 24psi in the front and rode. I noticed while warming up practicing turns in the parking lot that when leaning the bike over it would make a "ting" noise as the wheel rotated that sounded like it was coming from the front wheel. It only did this when turning in one direction (right I think, left was silent). I grabbed at the spokes and nothing felt loose from my quick cursory check. Then I made sure the axle wasn't loose but it seemed tight. All was fine during the ride itself. This morning the tire was dead flat again.

What the heck should I be looking at or checking? The bike and wheelset has a little over 200 miles on it. I'm not sure if this is one issue or two separate ones at this point.

Suburban Dad fucked around with this message at 14:14 on Aug 1, 2023

kimbo305
Jun 9, 2007

actually, yeah, I am a little mad
Did you hear it leaning to both sides or just one way? I’ve had rotors be just bent enough that they wouldn’t run when riding straight, but when tilted over, the out of true spot would just contact the pad and make a tinging ring. Can verify it’s the rotor by pulling the brake ever so slightly to see if the sound changes. Or if the ting appears while riding straight.

jamal
Apr 15, 2003

I'll set the building on fire
new wheels can tend to ping a little as spokes bed in and unwind. You could have someone re-check tension and true them at some point.

As far as going flat, taking off the wheel and spraying it down with soapy water can find leaks. If it looks like it's coming out of the valve but the valve is tight, it's probably actually leaking past the tape.

Suburban Dad
Jan 10, 2007


Well what's attached to a leash that it made itself?
The punchline is the way that you've been fuckin' yourself




Thanks, I think I'll poke around today and then take it somewhere to have it looked at if I can't make heads or tails of it.

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004

kimbo305 posted:

I respect their hustle but I would absolutely be rattail filing out the extra 2mm on a regular 110 chainring for use on my own bike.

It's charmingly quaint compared to the deliberately incompatible 4-bolt asymmetric chainrings and spline interfaces SRAM/Shimano use today

Platystemon
Feb 13, 2012

BREADS
Someone should make a bottle to hold sealant with a hose to screw onto a tire valve stem coming out of the bottom and a valve on top to connect to a pump.

Maybe I will make one.

Suburban Dad
Jan 10, 2007


Well what's attached to a leash that it made itself?
The punchline is the way that you've been fuckin' yourself




jamal posted:

new wheels can tend to ping a little as spokes bed in and unwind. You could have someone re-check tension and true them at some point.

As far as going flat, taking off the wheel and spraying it down with soapy water can find leaks. If it looks like it's coming out of the valve but the valve is tight, it's probably actually leaking past the tape.

The tape must have failed.


Gonna get the wheels trued soon hopefully for the other thing.

SimonSays
Aug 4, 2006

Simon is the monkey's name
If there's a sound when turning one way but not the other, check what the cable housing is up to, could just be flopping around

XYLOPAGUS
Aug 23, 2006
--the creator of awesome--
I screwed up.

How quickly will my seals disintegrate in my fork if I used a syringe that was previously in contact with DOT brake fluid to add oil to the lowers and bleed the damper?

This fork is on my hard tail, which gets maybe 500 to 750 trail miles a year.

A year? 6 months?

I cleaned the syringe with 90% isopropyl alcohol and let it air dry after using it with DOT fluid if that helps anything.

Suburban Dad
Jan 10, 2007


Well what's attached to a leash that it made itself?
The punchline is the way that you've been fuckin' yourself




I would think since you cleaned it that it's fine?

Mederlock
Jun 23, 2012

You won't recognize Canada when I'm through with it
Grimey Drawer
I'm no expert or anything but DOT brake fluid is just hydraulic fluid with extra stuff added , you're probably fine especially since you cleaned it first

XYLOPAGUS
Aug 23, 2006
--the creator of awesome--
I think the reasoning is that the DOT fluid that sram uses contains silicon, which would dissolve silicon based seals.

Well, it's done now so I'll get a replacement syringe for the next service and keep on riding!

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

XYLOPAGUS posted:

I screwed up.

How quickly will my seals disintegrate in my fork if I used a syringe that was previously in contact with DOT brake fluid to add oil to the lowers and bleed the damper?

This fork is on my hard tail, which gets maybe 500 to 750 trail miles a year.

A year? 6 months?

I cleaned the syringe with 90% isopropyl alcohol and let it air dry after using it with DOT fluid if that helps anything.

If you cleaned it as you describe I don't think you have anything to worry about. Anecdotally, syringes where I've used DOT fluid in them and not cleaned them properly are very obviously a bit hosed up the next time you go to use them - the plunger sticks in the bore of the syringe and it's a nightmare to use. If yours wasn't like that it's probably fine.

TobinHatesYou
Aug 14, 2007

wacky cycling inflatable
tube man

XYLOPAGUS posted:

I think the reasoning is that the DOT fluid that sram uses contains silicon, which would dissolve silicon based seals.

Well, it's done now so I'll get a replacement syringe for the next service and keep on riding!

Fact Check:
SRAM recommends DOT 5.1 though DOT 3 and DOT 4 can also be used. These brake fluids are glycol-based.
DOT 5.0 is silicone based, not to be confused with silicon, and not to be used with SRAM brake systems.

And OP will be fine since he flushed/rinsed/cleaned the syringe.

Withnail
Feb 11, 2004
I've about got everything for a budget build I've been working on.

I got a deal on the older 11 speed R8070 components. Still need battery, junction box and shifter cables.

Can I use the newer di2 battery and junction box for this?

amenenema
Feb 10, 2003

No idea but that's a dope bike

TacoHavoc
Dec 31, 2007
It's taco-y and havoc-y...at the same time!
Does this help?

https://bike.shimano.com/content/dam/e-tube/assets/images/contents/project/compatibillity/pdf/en/HM-CC.3.4.3-00-EN.pdf

I ran into that a while back looking up a different compatibility issue.

Edit: Oh wait, looks like probably not
https://bettershifting.com/12-speed-r9200-r8100-and-11-speed-di2-compatibility/

Withnail
Feb 11, 2004
Thanks it's still confusing though. It sounds like they changed the cables and you can maybe make it work with adapters...

Clark Nova
Jul 18, 2004


Looks good. What kind of handlebars are those?

TacoHavoc
Dec 31, 2007
It's taco-y and havoc-y...at the same time!
Only the five 11sp units listed about halfway down the page apparently will work with the 12 sp module with wiring adapter. The article alludes to them being mostly TT stuff. So odds are your setup isnt going to work with a 12 sp module.

Residency Evil
Jul 28, 2003

4/5 godo... Schumi
I think I'm loving something up with my SRAM bleeding.

When I'm at the last part where the caliper bleed port is off, and I'm just using the syringe on the brake lever to pressurize/vacuum the system, no matter how much I pump/pull, I still seem to get tiny bubbles coming out of the brake lever when I try to pull the syringe up/vacuum.They're tiny, but they seem to be there.

I should have zero bubbles, right?

edit: fwiw, my brakes seem to work well after bleeding?

Residency Evil fucked around with this message at 04:45 on Aug 7, 2023

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Residency Evil posted:

I think I'm loving something up with my SRAM bleeding.

When I'm at the last part where the caliper bleed port is off, and I'm just using the syringe on the brake lever to pressurize/vacuum the system, no matter how much I pump/pull, I still seem to get tiny bubbles coming out of the brake lever when I try to pull the syringe up/vacuum.They're tiny, but they seem to be there.

I should have zero bubbles, right?

edit: fwiw, my brakes seem to work well after bleeding?

How much vacuum are you creating? Possible you're pulling the gas out of solution if you're really applying a lot of vacuum.

Residency Evil
Jul 28, 2003

4/5 godo... Schumi

VelociBacon posted:

How much vacuum are you creating? Possible you're pulling the gas out of solution if you're really applying a lot of vacuum.

Oh, I’m pulling hard/making a lot of vacuum. Sounds like I shouldn’t be doing that?

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Residency Evil posted:

Oh, I’m pulling hard/making a lot of vacuum. Sounds like I shouldn’t be doing that?

AFAIK it's best practice to put your fluid in the syringe first (with the tube clamped) and do that, and expel any gas that doesn't dissolve back into solution, and then bleed your brakes after with that prepared fluid. I think doing what you're doing just means you've fully bled your brakes and you're seeing little gas bubbles pop in and out of solution with the variation of pressure in the syringe.

Residency Evil
Jul 28, 2003

4/5 godo... Schumi

VelociBacon posted:

AFAIK it's best practice to put your fluid in the syringe first (with the tube clamped) and do that, and expel any gas that doesn't dissolve back into solution, and then bleed your brakes after with that prepared fluid. I think doing what you're doing just means you've fully bled your brakes and you're seeing little gas bubbles pop in and out of solution with the variation of pressure in the syringe.

Ah gotcha. I guess I should bleed my brakes again?

VelociBacon
Dec 8, 2009

Residency Evil posted:

Ah gotcha. I guess I should bleed my brakes again?

No I'd say they're probably good. It's maybe something to do next time you bleed them but it's also very like last-3% kind of benefit I'd think. If they're working well just leave it!

sweat poteto
Feb 16, 2006

Everybody's gotta learn sometime
A couple cubic millimeters of air isn't going to wreck your braking, if you were just getting micro bubbles it's fine.

sweat poteto fucked around with this message at 19:54 on Aug 7, 2023

Withnail
Feb 11, 2004

OK my dumb rear end finally figured out how to read the compatibility matrix. I need BT-DN110 battery, EW-RS910 junction, SD50 cables. Building bikes used to be a little simpler.

Clark Nova posted:

Looks good. What kind of handlebars are those?

Deda alanera

amenenema
Feb 10, 2003

Withnail posted:

OK my dumb rear end finally figured out how to read the compatibility matrix. I need BT-DN110 battery, EW-RS910 junction, SD50 cables. Building bikes used to be a little simpler.

AXS BABY!!

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Salt Fish
Sep 11, 2003

Cybernetic Crumb
Just wait until that table has firmware revisions.

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